Roofing Contractor

Roofing Materials

2008-05-20T00:00:00.000-07:00

In Eastern Pennsylvania farmers used to get up to milk the cows and due their chores early in the morning.. My, have things changed since was a boy. Not only are there very few of us left, but we have had to cope with urban sprawl. Our farm is in Bucks County. This county and Montgomery County are some of the fastest going suburban areas on the East Coast. In the morning I go downtown and take my father to breakfast at 6am. Yes, I can start the day at anytime but this is the best hour. This trip is not so much for the meal which I don't really need, but to check out route each day that the trash trucks will follow. I want to make sure I do my shopping early!!! This way I can check out the early morning trash routes for the free bargains that are set out during the night. I have come home many a time with a full load in my pickup truck. I even got a Frozen Purdue Chicken last month, boy was it tasty!!!

Yes, I am an urban farmer. Our farm is in the heart of Bucks County, just 25 miles north of Philadelphia. See http://www.seedlingsrus.com/Palocations.html The last dairy cows have been sold in our area, so you can imagine, fields and fields of houses surround our farm. But, our good neighbors do provide us with their discarded items. We have found this as our new resource. Thus we have come up with new ways to capitalize on being a suburban farmer. If there was ever a place where one can take a bull by the horns, its on a farm. There are many ways to operate a farm. Farmers can buy or build there own equipment. Farmers can collect what is junk to most people, but is inventory to the farmer. An old car to a farmer can become a mobile tool box, some old cars become shelters for farm pigs, or old cars become sources of needed parts for repair of other machinery. At Highland Hill Farm, we value items that most people would put out to the trash. This article is about us, and our collecting of used items for use on our properties.

Our nurseries, farms, and ranches are always in need of all sorts of used items. We are always looking to trade for items that we are able to use in our operations. We use steel, such as angle iron and metal rods. Old bed frames make a cheap substitute for angle iron. Old curtain rods are a great substitute for metal rods. Old hangers, well, we use them in place of welding rods.

We believe that the best way for us to obtain needed supplies is to have a hardware store approach to inventory for our operations. We want to have all sorts of materials on hand and at many of our locations to supply a lower cost source of materials for the operations. This means we buy in bulk, and accept used or items that need repairs. We have the ability to fabricate some of our own equipment so that means we will collect salvaged iron, metal pipe, and construction materials. We build our own additions and do our own renovations to our properties so used constructions materials are wanted. I am color blind so colors don't matter. Roofing shingles need not match, only protect.

We are always looking for used power equipment and tools. It is easier to have tools on site than to carry needed tools to some of our remote operations. Thus we want all types of machinery. We can modify and repair items and thus condition of the item may not be suitable for your needs but great for ours.

Do you have rolls or partial rolls of barbed wire or woven wire? Fence supplies, electric chargers, fencing tools, gate, posts.... We can trade. See http://www.seedlingsrus.com/TradesWanted.html

We are also interest in collecting rocks and boulders that we can sell at our nurseries. Wall stone and old building foundations are great sources of rock and stone. Why throw it out we may be able to recycle it? You may also have left over pavers and flagstone. We again are interested in them. In December of 2006 we began to sell hardscaping materials thru our web site http://www.digatree.com

We have a store in Milan Pa that sells used items from furniture to farm equipment. There is virtually no item that is reusable that we can't sell or recycle for you. See http://www.seedlingsrus.com/MilanHirst.html

We are not a one way street. We have thousands of plants from seedlings and liners to 20' trees. We grow trees, plants, and shrubs in Fountainville and Milan Pa. See our web site for details on plants that we carry. http://www.seedlingsrus.com Do you like to hunt? We have lots of recreational sites on our farms and ranches. See http://www.seedlingsrus.com/recreationalops2.html for information on hunting, fishing, camping, hiking, arrowhead hunting, bird watching, bone hunting and meteorite hunting on our ranches and farms. Maybe you could just help us by transporting items from one farm and ranch to another. Highland Hill Farm farm is located 1 mile west of Doylestown in Central Bucks County, Pennsylvania,( at 5275 W. Swamp Rd.) ( for our location near Doylestown see http://www.seedlingsrus.com/Palocations.html ) whose name is not at all derived from the many deer to be found (that would be too easy), was established, wa-a-a-y back in 1681 when the king of England, Charles II, owed one of his old admirals 16,000 pounds Sterling. (That's about 4 million of our 2006 dollars.) For payment of the debt, it became the admiral's son who was given a "tract" (a parcel, a piece) of land in "the New World," on the northern continent of the western hemisphere before it got the name America.

When William Penn saw just the eastern edge of the 40,000 square miles he had gotten he was most pleased, understandably so, with a forest that seemed to never end. Dad's woods, he thought, deciding to name the place where he would start a democratic sort of Quaker colony, Pennsylvania, Penn, -sylv (a Latin word root meaning "woods"), -ania (Latin suffix for "land"). So that's why our home sounds like Count Dracula's (Tran -sylv -ania, tran for "between," as in, between the Carpathian Mountains and the old Principality of Wallachia in what is today's Romania, there's a land which is woods. Maybe Newfoundland should have been named Newfoundania? Naah.

William Penn established just three counties at first, all in the southeastern corner of his wooded land, all with names from mother England. Philadelphia County surrounded the original village there, Chester County was to the south, and Bucks County to the north.

In England, Buckinghamshire was, and still is, a county just northwest of London that forms an irregular rectangle running from the southeast at the edge of London, northwesterly. BUCKinghamShire, was shortened to Bucks in conversation. So William Penn named his land's similarly sized, irregular rectangle county, which ran northwesterly from Philadelphia's edge, Bucks county. Of course when you come to our farm be prepared to visit our county and experience its diverse culture and history.

When you come to visit us at Highland Hill Farm in Fountainville, an interesting place to visit is Haycock Mountain. It is a cooled 130-million year old "almost a volcano" that didn't get to come out of the ground. It stayed below, but made the ground bulge upward, and the hot, liquid magma cooled to form coarse-grained "diabase" rock. Ayres' Rock in Australia and Wyoming's Devil's Tower are world-famous examples of what is called a "laccolith." Milk is "lacco" in Latin and "lith" means stone. Haycock Mountain is a laccolith, Buck's County's highest point at 959 feet above sea level.

Haycock Township surrounds the mountain. Haycock Elementary School is having their annual band concert at the nearby high school in the town of McLean on Tuesday, December 20, this year. You don't think that Bucks County has a town named McLean? You're absolutely right! Although there's the Haycock Elementary School we know on Old Bethlehem Road (Route 212), there's another one at the intersection of Haycock Road (Route 703) and Westmoreland Street, in McLean, Virginia just a few miles across the Potomac River west of Washington, D.C. Then, there's Haycock Mountain, in the southwestern part of the state of Utah, not to be confused with Haystack Mountain, Utah. Haycock Mountain, Alaska deserves mention, as well as Haycock Mound in Kansas. "What's in a name?," Shakespeare observed over 400 years ago.

So you get the point; haycock is a common word, but just what is a "haycock?" Before the days of baling machines, cut grasses for "haying" were spread out in the sun to dry ("gotta make hay while the sun shines") and then collected to be taken to where it would be stored. That dome-shaped mound, that pile, that heap, that stack of hay, will have a rounded top exactly like our Haycock Mountain in Bucks County.

If there's no barn with a "mow" (pronounce it like Chairman Mao) to store the hay out of the rain and snow, an extra large haycock can be piled up and this "hayrick" will have a protective outer layer of hay that will be used for bedding the farm animals, or for composting, etc. If a roof set on poles can be created to cover the hayrick, much less of the hay will have to get wet and subsequently rot... So there's a Hayrick Mountain in Texas and another Hayrick Mountain in Oregon. What's in a name? Try, Highland Hill Farm? And guess what we Raise? Highland Cattle and Nursery stock. Our most popular tree is the Green Giant arborvitae.( see http://www.seedlingsrus.com/GreenGiant.html ) Here is why:

The hardiness zone the Green Giant Arborvita tolerates is from zone 5 to zone 8. That's where extreme cold temperatures get down to a temperate level of about 15 or 20 degrees in the winter (Zone 8), but also as low as a frigid level of 15 or 20 degrees BELOW zero (zone 5). Green giants are evergreens, being cedars. Their rapid growth rates can in ideal conditions reach 3 feet per year. Site requirements for the Green Giant Arborvita are sun to partial shade, moist well drained soil preferred (but still does well in clay), and protection from wind, at lest when young.

The Green Giant is a beautiful tree. It has an aesthetically fine form. It's conical, being narrow to broadly pyramidal, reaching from 50 feet to 80 feet in height in southeastern Pennsylvania. The width at the base of the cone is usually about 15 feet to 20 feet. The leaves are rich green making graceful foliage.

Green Giants make a superb privacy screen and living fences. They keep their foliage color year 'round, great for brightening bleak gray winter days with snow on the ground. The cinnamon bright red bark when young turn rich russet brown with time crating a strong contrast with the needle leaves.

Green Giants' flowers, their fruit are pretty little light brown half-inch female cones. (Just so you know, Green giants are females, so its okay to call the cones pretty.) The Green Giant is also a wonderful shade tree, casting a dark, dense shade. The wood is strong too, once the tree is beyond its youth.

This is an arborvita that should outlive even your grandchildren. There are Green Giants out west documented to be over 300 years old. Just don't plant these too close to the ocean, or roads in areas where there's a lot of salt used for snow removal. If you get over 100 inches of snowfall and more per year, no roadside Arborvita planting where salt is used, PLEASE. The greatest soldier of ancient Greece in the Trojan war had his one little weak spot, what proved to be a fatal flaw, and the "Achilles Heel" for Green Giant Arborvitae is hypersensitivity to salt. If you plants this Arborvitas just keep away from the splash of road salt and it will make a great living fence.

So when are you coming to visit us in Bucks County?

See our many web sites at:
http://www.zone5trees.com , http://www.highlandhillfarm and http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.greengiantarbs.com http://www..HuntingRelics.com Delete Reply Forward Spam Move... Previous | Next | Back to Messages

Bill Hirst has been growing plants on his 200 acre farm in Bucks County for 30 years. His web sites are http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.digatree.com You can see Bill's fossil hunting web site at http://www.huntingrelics.com Sign up for Bill's newsletter at http://www.seedlingsrus.com/123456signup.html

Roofing Materials Needed

2008-05-17T02:19:00.000-07:00

Do you have rolls or partial rolls of barbed wire or woven wire? Fence supplies, electric chargers, fencing tools, gate, posts.... We can trade. See http://www.seedlingsrus.com/TradesWanted.html

So when are you coming to visit us in Bucks County?

Roofing Materials Desired

2008-05-16T00:17:00.000-07:00

Do you have rolls or partial rolls of barbed wire or woven wire? Fence supplies, electric chargers, fencing tools, gate, posts.... We can trade. See http://www.seedlingsrus.com/TradesWanted.html

So when are you coming to visit us in Bucks County?

Everything Your Need To Know About Basement Waterproofing

2008-05-13T03:20:00.000-07:00

Waterproofing your basement is an essential project to take on in order to avoid some very serious and costly problems later on down the road. During the hot summer months you will typically not have many problems with regards to your basement being wet, but when the rainy season arrives you will definitely start to notice areas that need improvement. Perhaps you may experience a flooded basement floor or maybe some heavy condensation build-up.

If you are living a newly build home, the chances of you having serious basement waterproofing problems are slim to nothing. Newer homes are usually pretty well waterproofed. It?s the older homes that you need to worry about. Anything built before the year 1970 will need to be inspected for poor waterproofing. In the past, the construction of homes was not as good as it is today, which is why there tends to be more problems with older homes.

Aside from poor construction, other issue may lead to waterproofing issues. For instance, through out time you may have a water protection system start to break down. As this system becomes less and less efficient, you will start to have problems with excess water entering into your home. Your basement will be the first place to start showing signs of wetness. Whatever you do, don?t ignore this problem. The problem will only become worse if you neglect it.

It is extremely important to fix a wet basement problem. In the beginning stages of a wet basement problem, you will start to smell an unpleasant odor. Some people ignore this odor until the problems becomes worse. As the problem begins to progress, it will start to form mildew. The mildew will continue to spread and start damaging furniture in your basement and other important items. Furthermore, mildew leads to pests and breathing difficulties if you are exposed to it for long periods of time. For these reasons, it is better to waterproof your basement before it causes serious damage to your house and to those that live in it.

Bottom line, if you notice a leak in your basement, or any other form of water damage, it is recommended that you have your basement inspected by a professional as soon as possible. The amount of waterproofing needed will depend upon how large the leak actually is and the amount of pressure that is being applying to the wall. If the problem is detected early enough then your waterproofing project should be rather simple and cost effective.

For more information regarding waterproofing basements, and to get a free estimate on basement waterproofing from a prescreened contractor visit www.WaterproofingKey.com

Waterproofing While Camping

2008-05-12T02:58:00.000-07:00

The leather kind of shoes is much more comfortable and flexible, especially at lower altitudes. There are commercial waterproofing confounds. There should be at least two layers of protection between the boots and your feet. You may consider use a synthetic sock for carrying moisture away from my feet and a synthetic/wool mixture for the outer sock for warmth and cushioning. You may want to add another sock the outer layer for additional warmth. It is recommended some form of waterproofing but I don't think plastic boots are necessary at 6000 meters.

People have been walking in leather shoes on the snow. The only safety and health considerations would be if the boots are waterproofed (waxes or oils will keep your feet from getting wet and exacerbating hypothermia), or the tred is sufficient to prevent slips and falls (the number-one cause of death and injury in the outdoors - bar none).

There is an old recipe for waterproofing using bees wax and petroleum jelly melted together in equal parts and rubbed vigorously into a warmed shoe or boot (it softens the hands at the same time). You will need to dry and heat shoes and boots on the open door of an oven, heated to about 200 degrees. When the boots were dry and hot, they would brush Neat's-foot Oil into the pores of the leather. It is called the weekly shoe-bake.

There are a lot of good commercial waterproofs for boots that work as well. Snow Seal is one that was produced out west in the U.S. and works pretty well waterproofing they advise. It's be either silicone, a polymer, or some sort of organic oil or wax. Clean the boots, let them dry, and apply the waterproofing according to instructions provided with the product.

There are important advices on products & methods of waterproofing a tent. The best suggestion is to go to a camping store and buy commercial seam sealer and waterproofing supplies. A lot can depend on the type of fabric and where it is leaking.

If your tent is leaking around the seams, this is because there are tiny pin holes in and around the seam created by the sowing process. If this is the case, seam sealer alone will probably do the trick. Seam sealer can come in two types, seam tape or liquid seam sealer. A urethane-based seam sealer is better because it is more flexible in cold temperatures and creates a better bond with the tent fabric. A disadvantage is that it is messier to use than tape.

If the fabric itself is leaking you can get a silicone-based water repellent treatment for all kinds of tent and tarp fabrics. Most pretreated tents come from the factory with the coating on the inside. If you touch the inside of the tent with your fingers, the oils on your fingers can react with the treatment causing it to become less effective. Spraying it on the outside can help by preventing the material from absorbing water, causing it to be lighter when carrying a wet tent. Products with UV treatment can slow fading and reduce fabric degradation from harmful UV rays.

Just make sure that you get the right product for the fabric of your tent. If you wanted to make your own you just need a substance that doesn't mix with water. Some items that you could use includes...

Lanolin - boil some sheep's wool and scrape the oil of the top. Do you have any sheep? This is flammable.

Coal Tar - Heat powered coal over a fire in a metal container and collect the liquid evaporating from the heated coal with a pipe leading from the container into a series of bottles. This is creosote and is used to waterproof railroad ties. This is very flammable.

Beeswax - You can buy this or raise bees. This is quite flammable.

Flax - Can be taken from the fleshy flax leaves, just underneath the tough skin. Not real flammable but will burn.

Victor Epand is an expert consultant for http://www.CombatCloth.info/. CombatCloth.info carries the best selection of combat clothing, gear, and accessories on the market.

Roofing Room Additions With A Low Pitch Roof

2008-05-10T01:38:00.000-07:00

A popular way to increase your living space is to add on a room. Most often these rooms have little or no pitch to allow water to run off of them. Special consideration therefore on the roofing materials used should be given.

The best way to insure no leaks is to apply a roof covering barrier that will not allow water that has accumulated on top to seep inside. Modified Bitumen is a great roof covering for low pitched roofs. Bitumen is modified by adding one or more polymers, and the sheets are typically reinforced with various types of mats or films. The sheets can be either smooth or have mineral granules on the surface, similar to the normal composition shingles you see. Modified Bitumen looks similar to 90lb roll roofing but it is very different. It is thicker and much, much stronger.

They will start with the bare roof sheathing (plywood decking) and first apply a layer of asphalt saturated felt usually 15lb, and then mop over this with hot tar. Then they will add a second layer of felt 30lb and mop again. Then they will apply the modified on top.

Modified comes in a 39?? wide role and it will be overlapped 4?? and sealed with a tar adhesive. At the junction point of the flat roof and the pitched roof it is attaching to, the roofers should remove the lower 3 rows of comp shingles and run the modified bitumen up to the lower edge of the fourth row. Then the 3 rows should be placed back into position over the bitumen.

It is never a good idea to have regular roofing shingles such as 3 tab or architectural shingles applied on a flat or low pitch less than 4/12. This is because water cannot run off as readily and the roof will stay wet longer or water will pool. This will allow water to seep under the shingle and begin to destroy the underlayment (felt ), and then the roof sheathing itself. Also high winds can cause the shingle tabs to blow up allowing water under the shingle with the same results of damage.

The proper roof covering will protect your investment and your wonderful new addition.

Cindy Jones is an Independent Catastrophe Claims Adjuster. She has been working in the construction field in one way or another for more than 18 years. She is also the author of manuals and courses for Independent Claims Adjusters. Find out more about her at http://www.adjustercindy.com

Asphalt Shingle Roofing

2008-05-09T03:53:00.000-07:00

When it comes to roofing, there are many options available. Among these options includes asphalt shingles. Asphalt shingles happen to be one of the most popular roofing options. They offer several benefits which include easy installation, affordability, versatility, and stylish good looks. Furthermore, asphalt shingles don't require any specialized accessories for the roof edges, wall terminations, and chimney or vent flashings.

Asphalt shingles traditionally come in 3-tab profiles. However, you will now see newer homes that have steeper roof pitches coming in laminate shingle profiles. A wide range of "architectural" shingles are available, whose profiles suggest the random shadows and patterns of slate, wood shingles, or ceramic tile. Furthermore, you should know that there are also two kinds of asphalt shingles on the market which include fiberglass shingles and organic-mat shingles. Both types are made with asphalt.

Quality and durability are important factors to consider with roofing materials. Asphalt singles come with a wind warranty. Quality shingles range from a 60 mph wind warranty to a 110 mph wind warranty. There are also several other options in between. Keep in mind, however, that warranties are a marketing device and are not a reliable predictor of lifespan.

To ensure quality, be sure to demand shingles that meet industry manufacturing standards. New shingle products are designed to resist damage from impact and high winds. Several manufacturers offer asphalt shingles designed to resist the effects of severe weather such as wind and impact from flying debris or hail. Make sure that you do your homework before selecting just any asphalt shingle for your roof.

It?s easy to find a shingle that will suit your home because there is such a wide range of colors and patterns available to choose from. If you find yourself having a hard time selecting one that will best suit your home, consider asking a roofing specialist to help you out. They can usually direct you to homes that have examples of different shingles. Seeing the shingles on real homes gives you a much better idea of what to expect.

For more information regarding asphalt shingle roofing and for a free cost estimate on shingle roofing visit www.RoofingKey.com

Interior Concrete Waterproofing: Protect Your Concrete Against Water Damage

2008-05-07T00:23:00.000-07:00

Moisture is a major enemy of concrete. It can weaken concrete, make it crack and in general cause deterioration of any concrete structure. Moisture can also cause staining and fungus that is nearly impossible to remove. Interior concrete waterproofing can help prevent moisture damage of this type.

Before you apply any type of interior concrete waterproofing you should first make sure any leakage or drainage problems are corrected. Just because you apply waterproofing doesn?t mean water won?t occur in the area. If landscape drainage problems or leaks aren?t fixed, you?ll still have water pooling on the treated concrete.

Interior concrete waterproofing is a sealing method that can be used on poured concrete, concrete blocks and even on stone foundations. Interior concrete waterproofing can be used on new and old concrete alike. For the best protection you should seal concrete right after the curing stage.

Interior Concrete Waterproofing

The sealant you use should protect against water, water vapor, and radon. To waterproof properly you may have to apply more than one coat of sealant, usually at least two. Read the manufacturer directions carefully before applying your brand of sealer.

Make sure to thoroughly clean and dry all concrete before you apply any interior concrete waterproofing. For existing concrete surfaces such as in a basement, all old paint or adhesive that might have been used on the floor must be removed before it can be waterproofed. The areas to be treated should be as clean as possible and free of any mold or mildew.

If you want to waterproof concrete foundation walls they must be cured for about a month. Sealants will keep cracks, holes or defects in concrete foundation walls from receiving moisture as well. For best water protection, it is usually recommended to seal both sides of the wall, using an exterior coating on the outside.

This article was written by Gregg Hicks of www.air-cleaners-and-purifiers.com www.air-cleaners-and-purifiers.com

www.air-cleaners-and-purifiers.com which provides Internet-based home improvement information and services. Offering homeowners a simple, quick, and free way to access, qualified home improvement remodeling contractors.

Roofing Contractors

2008-05-07T00:21:00.000-07:00

A solid roof over your head brings comfort, safety and protection. When your roof isn?t secure, you don?t really feel secure yourself. Roofing repair, restoration and remodel can restore your sense of security in no time. Professional roofing contractors are at your service.

Residential roof repair for homeowners

Residential roofing gets families out of the cold. Whether you live in a newly built home or a charming vintage cottage, you could experience a leak in your roof. If you?re getting out buckets every time it rains, it is time for roofing repair. A qualified roofing contractor will asses and mend your roof with little or no hassle for you. With a new roof over your head, you?ll be happier and healthier.

Commercial roofing professionals

Good commercial roofing is essential. Keeping employees and customers comfortable is important when doing business. If you need commercial roof restoration, then a licensed roofing contractor is to your rescue. A contractor who specializes in roofing will be more qualified and skillful. Don?t leave it up to anyone but a trained and experienced professional.

Update the look of your home's exterior with a new roof

When you are thinking about a new roofing design, skilled roofing contractors should be the first you call. Perhaps you would like to update your home with elegant tile roofing. Or maybe you are interested in solar power and other energy saving roofing methods. Whatever your desire, a roofing contractor can help you get exactly what you want.

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Pest Control - Pest Proofing

2008-05-05T02:42:00.001-07:00

There are a lot of us who will freak out at the sight of just one unwanted bug in our home. We may not care in the least about seeing one of these critters outside - but just one crawling across the floor where we can see it will cause us to use whatever means necessary to eradicate every indoor pest we can.

Roaches, ants, centipedes, silverfish, spiders and other assorted creepy crawlies are all unwelcome in our homes. Some of these guys we wouldn't give a second thought to if we saw them on the sidewalk. But let us see one on the wall and our whole agenda changes. To avoid having to experience these life-changing situations, you can pest proof your home.

Pest proofing involves keeping what's outside, outside. Most pests that we see in our home are coming there from outdoors. Often they come inside because of changes in the weather such as cooler temperatures after summer or because of heavy rains. Pest proofing involves making the house safe from their unwanted entry. Successfully pest proofing your house can prevent your ever having to see another unwelcome 6 or eight or even more legged guest.

Here are some steps you can take to make your house pest tight.

Repair all holes around the house and garage to prevent bug (and mouse for that matter) entry. Use metal hardware cloth or steel wool to seal off holes so that not only can they not get in, but can't chew or bite through the sealed hole either. Using wood will work if your problem isn't mice or you don't have mice. But if you do wood won't work because they can chew right through any wooden repair. After plugging holes with hardware cloth or steel wool, fill it with cement or mortar.

Seal the bottom of all outside entry doors by installing rubber door sweeps. Anything larger than a 1/16 of an inch gap is an invitation to insects to enter your home. Install seals on the bottom of garage doors too. These should be made of rubber and not vinyl so that they seal properly during cold weather.

Caulk door thresholds on the outside bottom and side edges.

Repair all door and window screens, which will stop the entry of flying insects. Some insects though are too small to be stopped by screens. The only way to prevent their entry is to keep windows closed when they are prevalent.

Bugs can sometimes find their way into your home through floor drains so they may need screening, too.

Use expandable foam or caulk to seal utility entrances into your home such as faucets, wiring, meters, pipes, dryer vents, etc: these are favored entry points into the home for lots of creatures.

Caulk all cracks you find around doors and windows. Clean all surfaces first and remove any peeling caulk or paint before using the caulk. Apply a smooth bead and smooth it with a moistened finger. Clear caulks hide any mistakes made better than colored ones.

Keep the foundation area clear of leaves and other types of yard debris.

Stephanie McIntyre has been a Platinum eBay Powerseller, an eBay Trading Assistant as well as an Educational Assistant trained by eBay. Her company, eSales Unlimited Inc. specializes in training small business owners in using eBay as an additional revenue stream. She maintains a site with information on selling on eBay.

All About Roofing

2008-05-05T02:40:00.000-07:00

Experts recommend that you repair or replace your roof every ten to thirty years. Since they're the first things exposed to damaging elements of nature (like rain, wind, sun, snow, hail, ice, etc.), it's not surprising that they need a little attention now and then. Of course the climate in which you live will determine how often you repair or replace your roof as well. For example, a roof in a climate that changes from extreme cold temperatures to extreme hot ones year after year after year is prone to problems like brittleness or even crumbling. Roof Styles There are six basic styles of roofs. The most common roofs are gable roofs and you can immediately recognize these types because they're in the triangular shape that we're all familiar with. A flat roof looks just like its name implies. Although there are many variations, most roofs are structured along these two basic styles.

For example, most roofs are sloped (or pitched) and depending upon the climate, a roof may be high pitched or low pitched. High-pitched roofs are found in climates that produce a lot of precipitation. As you might have guessed, precipitation such as snow or rain doesn't stand much of a chance against a high-pitched waterproof and/or thermal resistant roof. In warmer climates, like the southwest, you'll find many buildings and homes with low-pitched roofs. For your protection, your city may mandate a specific roof pitch (measured in degrees). How Roofs Are Born To build a roof from scratch, constructors (more appropriately called, roofers) will more than likely either frame it (put it together) at ground level and then hoist it onto the house, or attach a prefabricated roof onto the house in the same manner. The idea is to build as much of it within easy walking distance before attaching to the top of a home - where roofers later have to climb up and apply additional materials. What Roofs Are Made Of What materials? Well first, roofs begin as 2 x 4s. These act as a roof's frame. Once the frame is built, it's hoisted atop of a house, and then it's covered with plywood, or sheathing. If advisable, your roof's sheathing may be covered with insulating board as well. As a precaution against water damage, vital parts of the roof may even be covered with metal flashing.

Atop of the 2 x 4s, the plywood, and sheathing lies what most of us finally recognize as a roof: it's covering. Coverings range from asphalt to clay tile, and from slate to concrete tile, however most of them are covered with either hot tar or shingles. Shingles are squares of roofing materials overlapped and nailed to the surface beneath it.

When you talk to your contractor about the type of roof you want, you're bound to hear some terminology that you're unfamiliar with. Defining all these new terms is beyond the scope of this article, but you can rest assured that your contractor is well familiar with the lingo and is more than happy to describe your options.

Author Paul White represents FloridaHomeBuild.com. A site designed to help home owners from Florida locate local home contractors with their home improvement projects.

Visit http://www.FloridaHomeBuild.com

Baby Proofing

2008-05-02T02:23:00.000-07:00

When that innocent baby comes into your life the main thing that stays in your mind is keeping him or her safe from harm. You?ll think about a safe car seat, whether to breast feed or use formula, keeping smokers away, and a zillion other things. Raising a child is serious business and keeping that child safe is a task that every parent should take seriously. Remember though, at some point, your child will become mobile and before it happens you?ll want to know about baby proofing your home.

When your little one starts to move around you?ll notice a hundred things that are unsafe that you never would have paid attention to before. All those knick knacks and decorative items along the lower shelves will suddenly become potential safety hazards. The plants that you so lovingly fertilize will be seen as poison factories. Even your beloved pet may be looked upon as dangerous to your precious little bundle of joy. Don?t fear though ? you do not have to get rid of every little aspect in you life that poses as a threat. Baby proofing your home against danger and threat is not difficult when you have the right information at your fingertips.

Online, you can get info on many different tools for a variety of situations. Baby locks for cupboard doors are easy to find and there are different types of locks for different types of doors. Trusted expert advice can open your eyes to the true dangers in your home and offer you the safety items you need to protect your child. You can find quality items within your budget to address any safety situation and even find out which baby proofing items are preferred by the pros.

Although baby proofing your home can seem intimidating at first, once you start talking to other parents you?ll find that there is a solution to almost any danger that can be found in your home. If you don?t know many parents, you can chat and share ideas and ask for solutions from experts and other experienced parents in forums and chat rooms online. Sometimes the best advice really is free.

While your little one is still safe in your arms, compile a list of potential dangers. This will give you enough time to find appropriate baby proofing advice and safety items. When your little one does start exploring his or her world, you?ll have all the items you need to make baby proofing your home a breeze.

for additional useful info visit the compehensive Baby Guide at http://www.GoBabyGuide.com

Soundproofing Your Fence with Dr. Bob

2008-05-02T02:20:00.000-07:00

So you have just purchased your home but when you first looked at it, you didn?t realize just how bad the traffic noise in the backyard really was. Now you are committed to a 30-year mortgage and asks ?What can I do Dr. Bob? Well, I?m glad you asked.

You can construct a soundproof or a sound-control fence. Now will this fence block 100% of the traffic noise? I?m afraid not, but will it make your backyard life tolerable? You bet it will.

There are some things that you need to know about building an effect sound control fence that will make it more effective. First and foremost, you new sound control fence needs to be 8 ft above the noise source. Now you need to check with your city or township to see if they have height ordinances regarding fences. If they will only allow a 6? high fence, you can always build an earthen berm to increase the height of the backyard where the fence will be erected.

Now lets talk about the fence itself. I recommend building a cedar or redwood slatted fence as high as possible, (8ft being the minimum height above the noise source). The term ?Above the noise source? means simply this, if the noise is coming from an automobile muffler, then the fence technically needs to be 8? above the cars tailpipe. This should be simple enough. If you fence isn?t exactly 8? above the noise source will it not be effective? Of course it will, but at the 8? level you will get the best sound blocking.

Let?s talk about constructing your fence. The new redwood or cedar fence will have at least 4? X 4? posts mounted in concrete footings and sunk at least 2 ft into the ground. You will want as stable a foundation as possible for your new sound control fence as you will be adding heavy sound blocking agents to it. Once the posts are set and the concrete has cured, you will then add the fence cross members. These are generally 2? X 4? beams that connect the posts together and offer extra support for the fence slats. Now once the fence framing is complete, you will then be ready for the soundproofing membrane to be installed. You will have already called the professionals at Soundproofing America and ordered a product called ?mass loaded vinyl?. Mass loaded vinyl is a loaded vinyl soundproofing barrier that comes in rolls that are 35?x 4? or 30? x 4 ??. Once you have your rolls of mass loaded vinyl and the acoustical caulk and tape that go with the MLV, you are ready to install the soundproof membrane for your new fence.

Your first step is to stretch the MLV along the frame of the fence, you want to make sure the that the MLV extends all the way down to the ground so that the sound does not leak though the bottom of your fence. Once the MLV is stretched across the fence frame, you will staple or nail the MLV to the frame. I recommend that you overlap the MLV by at least ?? and that you will liberally caulk between the overlap with acoustical caulk. You will also want to caulk the outer perimeter of the MLV membrane with the acoustical caulk. The next step is to tape the caulked Seams only with a PVC seam sealer tape along with the acoustical caulk.

As soon as the MLV membrane is secured to the fence framing and all the seams and perimeter have been caulked and taped, it is time to slat the fence. You will use 8? dog eared slats and but the slats as close together as possible, it is also a good idea to caulk the seams of the slats themselves, but this is absolutely not essential.

I would also recommend slats to the other side of the fence in an effort to protect the MLV membrane from the elements. This is a common practice, but once again is not essentials for good sound blockage.

One final note, some of my customers use a combination of both mass loaded vinyl and America mat closed cell foam as the septum for their sound control fences. By adding the closed cell foam you are adding sound absorption to your fence as well as the best in sound blockage. If you use both of these weather proof products, you will want to leave at least a 1/8? gap between the slats on the side of the fence that faces the noise source. In other words if you are using both America mat and MLV you will need to slat both sides of the fence and leave the gaps on the side facing the traffic for example. These septum fences work great for loud and obnoxious neighbors as well. I hope this give your new hope for having a nice quiet backyard.

This is Dr. Bob?..Out!!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Soundproofing Your Car, Truck or Motor Home

2008-05-01T04:18:00.002-07:00

There are a lot of products out there for soundproofing your car but there is precious little ?How to? information out there regarding this subject. I am here to fill that void. When soundproofing any vehicle, the first order of business is to take care of the engine noise coming from under the hood. Most people don?t realize that a lot of the noise they hear in the passenger compartment of their vehicle is actually being transmitted from the engine and the road via the tires and shocks. In essence these sounds and vibrations are transmitted directly into the hood of the car which is a sheet of steel that simply transmits the noise through the hood I and into the windshield and ultimately to the passengers ears.

I know I know, you have some sort of fiberglass material attached to the underside of the hood, isn?t that soundproofing. I?m afraid not, basically that is a heat shield to prevent the heat of the engine from damaging the paint on the surface of the hood. It does work well for that, but it has absolutely no soundproofing abilities at all.

What I suggest is that you remove that fiberglass hood mat and then clean the underside of the hood thoroughly. You will then cut and glue in a piece of 1? America Mat which is a dense vinyl nitrile closed cell foam mat. What you want to do is trace out the underside of the hood using a pencil and butcher paper for example and trace out the cut that you want paying attention to the edges and the contours. How do I cut the foam so precisely you ask? Well I?m glad you asked. The absolute best way to accurately and precisely cut any kind of foam is to use an electric kitchen meat-cutting knife. These electric knives are readily available at Wal Mart or K-Mart and cost about $9- $12. It is well worth the investment if you plan on soundproofing your entire vehicle. Basically you would trace the pattern of the underside of the hood; you can actually cut the America mat to the same pattern as the protective mat that came with the car that way you know it will fit and look properly.

Once you have the America mat cut to your liking and the underside of the hood is cleaned down to the paint, I would recommend cleaning the underside with a terry cloth rag and some alcohol. This will insure good adhesion of the adhesive. You can also rough up the underside with a fine grit sand paper on an electric sander. Cover the engine with a towel or drop cloth to prevent adhesive of sand granules from getting into the motor. Now you will spray a good quality contact cement to the underside of the hood as well as to the smooth side of the America Mat. I like the 3M Super 77 spray contact cement. Keep the 2 pieces apart for as long as the instructions say and once the adhesive has tacked you will adhere the foam to the underside of the hood. You will want to use tape to hold the America mat to the underside of the hood until it dries enough to stick on its own. When the adhesive has dried you cam close the hood and drive off. The America mat can withstand temperatures of 240 Deg F and will literally last for the life of the vehicle.

This system can also be used on trucks and motor homes. We have many customers who have used the America mat to soundproof the ?Doghouse? that covers the engine from the inside of their coach.

Now there are also materials that can be used for the floorboards as well as door panels and the back areas of station wagons or vans or the trunks of cars. We have also had people with classic cars use the America mat to soundproof their vehicles; it can make your Corvette sound a lot quieter with the top up. I hope this has helped you in your quest for a quieter vehicle. There will be more articles on car soundproofing in subsequent articles, until then, this is Dr. Bob?.Out!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

The Mysteries of Soundproofing Uncovered!

2008-05-01T04:18:00.001-07:00

It seems like the big guys never want to tell you their so-called ?Secrets of Soundproofing?. That sort of sounds like a self-help book doesn?t it? Here at Soundproofing America we know that the more knowledge our customers have the easier it is to discuss soundproofing issues intelligently. We will give you in depth information on the best soundproofing materials for your situation and will always provide detailed installation instructions for all of our quality soundproofing products.

There are no secrets regarding soundproofing, but the other guys figure that if you don?t know anything about soundproofing, they can sell you anything they want and will not be held accountable if it doesn?t work because of the buyer beware clause in their contracts.

We here at Soundproofing America don?t do things that way. We know that the more knowledge you have the better your chances are for success.

Soundproofing has many aspects that I will discuss briefly in this article. One is the addition of mass to walls and ceilings or even to your floors. By mass I am referring materials such as lead sheeting and mass loaded vinyl. These barrier materials add mass to your walls for example and act as blockers. Generally lead sheeting or MLV do not have any absorption characteristics, they and basically reflective barriers.

The are best used on bare studs and joists, though they can be adhered over top of existing drywall as long as you de-couple the barriers from the drywall. We will discuss this further in subsequent articles.

The next soundproofing agent we will discuss is a product we call America Mat. America Mat is a closed cell vinyl nitrile foam mat that is used to like the insides of joist or stud cavities. Lining these cavities with America mat will seal the cavities and create a dead air space that if very helpful for soundproofing. America mat can be purchased directly from Soundproofing America by calling their toll free number (877) 530-0139 and please feel free to ask for Dr. Bob, I?ll be more than happy to answer any and all of you soundproofing questions.

Now the third in our countdown of great soundproofing agents are sound dampers. Sound Dampers like Green Glue are my favorite soundproofing agents. Sound dampers are generally a liquid product that is applied to that backside of a layer of drywall and then installed over top of the existing drywall in the area you are soundproofing. The Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that actually deadens the drywall so it is unable to resonate. This inability of the drywall to resonate or vibrate with the sound will actually stop the sound from passing through the drywall and will cause the sound to dissipate. It actually turns into a low-grade heat energy.

Of all the materials described so far, the Green Glue is by far the easiest to install and most effective soundproofing agent on the market today. The difference between the Green Glue and other soundproofing agents is that Green Glue is more effective at stopping the transmission of low frequency sound. Frequencies of 125 Hz and below are the most difficult to stop because they are a much longer sound wave. The longer sound waves are much more difficult to combat than the higher frequencies which are shorter sound waves.

If you want to learn more about soundproofing material and their installation, call the professionals at Soundproofing America your #1 soundproofing resource from coast to coast. This is Dr. Bob?..Out!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

What is Green Glue and How Does It Work for Soundproofing?

2008-04-10T03:56:00.001-07:00

Green Glue is a revolutionary new soundproofing compound that approaches the issues of soundproofing from an entirely different angle. Green Glue is no a sound blocker or a sound absorber of a sound diffuser, but rather it is a sound deadener or damper. I know, I can hear the wheels in your head turning. What is a sound damper? Well, I?m glad you asked. A sound damper is and agent or material that actually stops the transmission of sound through two rigid hard surfaces such as drywall or soundboard.

Here?s how it works, when Green Glue is applied to a second sheet of drywall and then sandwiched in between the existing drywall and this new piece of drywall. The Green Glue will actually change the resonant frequencies of both layers of drywall and will stop their ability to transmit sound.

So are your confused yet. I have a very simply analogy of how the Green Glue actually works. I got this from a customer who was well attuned to the properties of Green Glue.

If you will, visualize your wall as being a drumhead. Now you have one of your kids beat the drum with a drumstick. The drum will resonate loud and clear, as there is nothing restricting the transmission of the sound as the drumstick strikes the drumhead. Now let take that same drumhead and as the child strikes the drum you place your finger on the drumhead. What happens now? The drum is now restricted and cannot transmit the sound or will only transmit a fraction of the sound that it did when the drumhead was unrestricted. I hope this little analogy has shown you how the Green Glue acts as a sound damper when applied between two layers of drywall or soundboard. I sure put Green Glue in perspective for me and I have been in the soundproofing industry for years.

Now knowing that the Green Glue is not a blocking agent or and absorber, it is now absolutely essential that is cover every square inch of the drywall layers. In other words, once you screw the second layer of drywall over top the first with the Green Glue sandwiched in between, it makes no difference that the screws are making a connection between the stud structure and the drywall layers. Why you ask? Because we are damping or deadening the drywall layers, he Green Glue is not a soundproof barrier.

Green Glue fills a very critical gap when soundproofing. It precludes you from having to remove your existing drywall. As far as I am concerned, the less demolition I have to do, the better.

Lastly, Green Glue also works remarkably well when applied to your ceiling. If you live in a condo, apartment or loft and have neighbors above you, you know exactly what I am talking about. Impact noise also known as Footfall noise is some of the hardest noise to deal with. Sure you could spend thousands on expensive hangers and clips and mass loaded vinyl not to mention the labor costs involved, and granted you will get some great soundproofing and impact protection if these materials are installed properly, but with if you use the Green Glue system on your ceiling you can experience a 60%?65% reduction in the amount of impact noise that is transmitted from the unit above. With the cost of housing ever climbing, Green Glue is becoming an essential part of building a home that gives you peace and solitude.

To learn more about Green Glue and how it can help you soundproof your home, go to www.greengluecompany.com there you will find independent test of the Green Glue against mass loaded vinyl, lead foil sheeting, suppress and Quiet rock as well as other damping agents. You will see that Green Glue is by far the most effective sound-damping agent on the market today. If you are in the market for this product or any of out quality soundproofing products, go to: www.soundproofingamerica.com, your #1 Soundproofing resource from coast to coast.

This is Dr. Bob?.Out!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Alternative Mass Loaded Vinyl Installations for Soundproofing

2008-04-10T03:55:00.002-07:00

There is more than one method for installing mass loaded vinyl to obtain maximum effect. The standard of the industry is to install the MLV directly to the stud or joist framing using an industrial stapler or heavy-duty roofing nails that have the large plastic heads. This method is known as the membrane or septum method. The MLV works well when placed on a wall or ceiling in a membrane fashion, however it can also be sandwiched between 2 layers of drywall or other type of wallboard. The jury is still out on what thicknesses of drywall is best. For better frequency diffusion, it is best to use a layer of 5/8? drywall then the MLV as a septum (a sandwich) and then add a layer of ?? drywall or Homasote. The dissimilar materials do help in the soundproofing effort especially when we are looking to get every STC point we can get with as little effort as possible.

There is not a lot of information on the Web in regards to alternate methods of mass loaded vinyl installation, hopefully we will be able to explore this here. If you are constructing walls using the staggered stud method, it would be beneficial to actually weave the vinyl in an out of the staggered stud assembly itself. The above picture gives you a rough idea of how this would look. The key to weaving MLV (or any barrier material) is to seal the vinyl as best as possible. In the case of a horizontal weave (most common weave) it is best to overlap the seams by at least 1? and seal that overlap with acoustical caulking as well as a quality seam tape. The weaving of MLV also aids in the defusing of sound waves. This works much like the dissimilar materials except ?turbo charges it?.

You can also use the weave on a standard stud wall provided there is no drywall installed on either side of the studs. (just open studs) This weaving method can be foiled by stud cross members, so it is best to have only vertically installed studs if you are planning to do the weave. If you weave the MLV on a normally studded wall, there may be problems with the drywall sitting level on the studs. If your studs are 16? on center, then every other stud will have 1/8? of increased width compared to the studs that don?t have the MLV weaved a top of them. To keep the drywall even on both sides, a sound isolation tape can be adhered to every other stud that that is not covered with the weaved MLV this will make all of the stud surfaces flat and even and the drywall will rest evenly on the studs.

From the feedback of our contractors in the field, we have discovered that the more a wood structure is dampened, the better the soundproofing will be in a wall or ceiling assembly. This is especially true for impact noise from above. There are many ways to dampen a wood frame assembly and some are more effective than others. Some contractors have used blown in cellulose in order to dampen the joist or stud structures, but cellulose has no mass and though it will help to a degree, it is much less effective than using blown in closed cell foam, or my favorite (which requires some ceiling demo) is to line the cavity areas between studs and joists with a closed cell vinyl nitrile foam mat (America Mat is a great choice) for maximum dampening. The foam mat would be glued to the studs and the wallboard in the stud cavities (provided you have drywall on one side of the wall only). This insures that the wooden structure is completely dampened and if sealed properly will offer extra soundproofing as a result of sealing those cavities. Sealed dead air space is God?s natural soundproofing method, as I like to call it. I am sure you have read many of the analogies regarding sealed dead air. If you were able to seal the dead air space and actually create a vacuum in that space, you?d be amazed at the amount of sound transmission that would be blocked.

I hope this little narrative helps you especially if you are doing new construction for a home theater, or music sound studio in your home. Thanks for reading and learning together. This is Dr. Bob?..Out!!!!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Roofing Basics

2008-04-10T03:55:00.001-07:00

Every home owner should know a thing or two about roofing. Most homeowners, at some point, will need to replace their roof in order to maintain the appearance and quality of life within their house. However, before jumping into the process of installing a new roof, it is important to understand what to expect with regards to contractors, completion dates, the installation process and materials. Looking for a new roof can be exhausting work, but with the proper knowledge and planning anyone can complete a successful roofing project.

Installing a new roof can often be a daunting task for most homeowners. Some people feel as though they can take on the project themselves, only to find out in the end that it should have been dealt with by a professional. Make sure to plan this stuff out before you invest your money because you could end up wasting a lot of it due to poor judgment. If you do decide to have a professional roofer install your roof, know that the project will be handled in a way that accommodates to those living within the home. However, you will want to agree with your contractors on completion dates so that you can plan accordingly.

Hiring a professional has its advantages. For starters, you get expert feedback on what materials you need, for both visual and practical reasons. Pretty much any question you have regarding your new roof can be answered by a qualified roofer. Furthermore, not only will your roofing company do what you request of them, but they will also be able to locate any problem areas that may be arising. Making repairs early on can save you a lot of time and money down the road. Hiring a qualified roof pro may seem like more money at first, but the quality of the job is what matters most because a poorly installed roof will cost you much more money in the end.

It is important for you to become knowledgeable on the different materials used in roof covering. This knowledge will assist you in selecting a roof covering that is right for your personal tastes, climate needs, and budget. The most common types of roofing materials include asphalt shingles, wood shake and shingles, tile roofing, slate roofing, and metal roofing. The longevity of your roof cover relies heavily on the quality of the material that you select. Using the finest material will add resale value and visual appeal to your home. When selecting a material make sure to pay special attention to the level of maintenance that each material requires and also how well it holds up to outside elements such as rain, sunlight, fire, and debris.

Lastly, before hiring just any contractor, be sure to get at least three different estimates and check each ones references. It is usually a very good idea to ask friends and family for a reference before you even begin your search. It also helps to ask your prospective roofer what other houses in your neighborhood that they have worked on. This allows you the chance to look at their work and listen to other people?s experience. This should make your decision much easier.

To learn more about roofing and for a free price quote on metal and shingle roofing visit www.RoofingKey.com.

Proofing - A Critical Function Not to be Overlooked

2008-03-31T01:52:00.000-07:00

Proofing

Business people universally agree that mechanical mistakes detract from the professionalism of communications. However, those with proofreading responsibilities commonly experience real frustrations in producing error-free work. They typically identify certain specific obstacles to accurate proofreading.

1. Overlooking mistakes when proofreading
2. Making time for proofreading in a pressured environment
3. Lacking self-confidence in a reliable system
4. Providing helpful, non-critical proofreading support to others
5. Lacking certainty about acceptable guidelines.

In the rush and pressure of sending communications, writers are often tempted to skip the final proofreading step. They send it to their printer, and approve it without really proofing it. After all, if the content is clear, who will mind a few mechanical mistakes?

In reality, readers do mind. Many readers report that their opinion of the writer's professionalism goes down a notch with every error they see. Mechanical mistakes send a message that writers are not investing much effort in the communication -that, in effect, writers do not care.

In addition, overlooked proofreading errors can sometimes change the content -often with some significant financial results.

1. One government agency wasted $3 million by not catching a hyphen error when proofreading a purchase order. In originally writing the order, the agency had meant to say, "1,000-foot-long radium bars." The order was typed, "1,000 foot-long radium bars."

2. One insurance firm reported that an employee mailed a check for $2,200 as a settlement for a dental claim. Payment of only $22.00 had been authorized.

3. A magazine accidentally ran a cake recipe in which "3/4 cup" was printed as "1/4 cup." Irate readers sent complaint letters and cancelled their subscriptions.

Obviously, there is also the financial cost of having to reprint the project correctly.

A great writing that clearly depicts why live personal proofreading is so important is the following:

I have a spelling checker;
It came with my PC;
It plainly marks four my revue
Mistakes I cannot sea.
I have run this poem threw it;
I am sure your pleased to no.
It is letter-perfect in its weigh;
My checker tolled me sew.

(By: Penny Harper)

The Three Principles of Proofreading

1. Go over a communication several times -several quick run-throughs are more effective than one slow reading.

2. Look for one type of error at each step.

3. Check for large, non-text errors before checking for small errors in the text.

Proofreading Techniques

Step One:

Cool off -If you created the communications piece, proofread later what you work on now. Be sure that you have access to an easy-to-use, updated reference like the Gregg Reference Manual. Also, make sure that you have a recent dictionary close by.

Step Two:

Get a preliminary overview of purpose and content. Read over the communication quickly to make sure that all major parts/sections are present, and that they say what is intended.

Step Three:

Check for all non-text parts -
1. Check for proper format and layout:
- margins
- consistent spacing and headings
- placement of dates, names, addresses, and other parts of the communication
2. Check for correct spelling of names and places.
3. Check accuracy of dates, addresses, and numbers.

Step Four:

Check the text, looking for errors in these areas. Use a card or ruler to slow yourself down.
1. Check for typographical errors -read aloud, saying each syllable of each word carefully. Look for omissions of parts of words.
2. Check for spelling errors.
3. Check for obvious grammatical mistakes, capitalization, and punctuation.

Step Five:

Read the communication backwards -from bottom to top, right to left -to pick up any typographical mistakes you may have missed.

Step Six:

Ask someone else to do a final check if it has to be perfect.

Scanning Patterns

The purpose of scanning patterns is to provide ways to find mistakes without reading for meaning. When proofreaders try to find errors while reading complete, logical sentences, they can miss mistakes because they get caught up in the meaning. Each scanning pattern is helpful in finding certain kinds of errors; choose the best pattern for the kind of text you are proofreading.

Block Scanning

This method of scanning focuses on essential information.
* Accuracy of numbers, dates, amounts of money, addresses
* Correct spelling of names and places
* Correct capitalization of names and places

Using this method, proofreaders are not looking and sentence structure, punctuation, or other grammatical skills. With this pattern, they can scan sections of print for critical information.

Column Scanning

This pattern is useful when proofreading columns of information. Column scanning is also used to proofread text by dividing the text into several columns.

To apply this pattern, direct the eyes straight down a column of print.

Fixation Scanning

Fixation scanning allows you to proofread groups of words, but without getting caught up in the meaning of sentences. This pattern is particularly helpful in finding doubly-typed words, by looking at the end of one line of text and the beginning of the next.

J. Wentworth
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Basic Things About Roofing Contractors

2008-03-31T01:51:00.001-07:00

It is inevitable for every structure to have a roof; you will never find a house or a building that does not have a roof. Its basic purpose is to provide security, much like why walls are put up around structures. However, building constructors and engineers have devised additional use of roofing - that is for a stylish capping of the structures they erect. Nevertheless, the style would only last if the materials used would make the roof sturdy and durable.

Through time, man has devised an array of ways to deal with different materials to build roofs, each with its own strong and weak points relative to conditions of weather and area restrictions. These are what roofing contractors know best.

If you are surveying for roofing materials, contact first a roofing constructor in order to provide you with several options. Roofing constructors also need to explain the exact roofing materials you need against the materials they want to give you. Budget allocation also influences the final choice of the material to be used for roofing a structure.

However, the following provide a brief description and costing of different roofing materials you can discuss with a roofing constructor:

Asphalt Shingles

This is the most common choice among roofing materials. This is classified as organic and fiberglass. The durability of asphalt shingles ranges from between 20 up to 40 years. Roofing of this material rates from 30 to 35 dollars.

Wood Shingles

Western Red Cedar is the usual material used for wood shingles because this wood variety does not easily crumble. This has three categories. Number one category is highly recommended for roofing because it is durable unlike the other two categories, which are only used for lining purposes. They are usually sold thinly and in different sizes. This type of roofing normally costs between 80 up to 170 dollars.

Wood Shakes

This is another roofing material from cedar. They are usually chosen for their natural look because they are usually sawed or even hand split. Likewise, they are normally categorized according to their weights and differing sizes. Costs for wood shake are much cheaper which is from an inexpensive 70 to a mere hundred dollars.

Concrete or clay roofing

If you are looking for the most corrosive-resistant roofing material, this is the item to choose. Concrete or clay roofing prices range from 150 to 400 dollars in similar dimension for its durability that lasts from at least fifty up to a century. Be it flat or corrugated, this type of roofing usually requires additional costing for extra weight needed in the roof beams.

A new roof is something that costs a lot of money, and getting a new roof can give you many new options for a new cover for your house, learn about {http://roofing.zupatips.com/"}Roofing Costs and much more about roofing at http://roofing.zupatips.com

Hiring Roofing Contractors

2008-03-29T02:21:00.000-07:00

If you are looking into buying a property or a house, or you are thinking bout getting some home improvement projects for your current house you will know that the roof is a very bid issue, no one wants to move into a house that has a roof that will not survive the next winter. Changing a roof, or even making slight changes and fixing tasks for a roof, is something that can really get in the way of normal life, especially if done in winter, or on a rainy season.

So if you are interested in knowing a little more about roofing and the work, costs and ideas behind having a new roof for your house, you should research this area, and make sure that you understand and know the basic concepts before you even meet with a roofing contractor that will confuse you with dozens of terms and names you have no clue about, and above all, with a price list that will probably knock you off your feet.

Building constructors and engineers have devised additional use of roofing - that is for a stylish ?capping? of the structures they erect. Nevertheless, the style would only last if the materials used would make the roof sturdy and durable.

Roofing contractors often do three R?s in roofing:

1. Renew

Roofing contractors can be relied upon when it comes to installing new shingles. They are considered as experts in putting a new cap for a structure.

2. Repair

Roofing contractors also help to correct the problem and to make things better and safe in a building.

3. Remodel

If able to fix the damage, roofing contractors install additional scaffolds and add-ons to keep any other damage from occurring.

As with all other contractors it is always advisable to try and find other people he worked for and see the results, or at least have a short conversation with the owners of houses this contractor made earlier work on, when you are finalizing the details try and have some kind of paper of agreement that you can both sign and that will hold the basic understandings between you and the contractor.

Daniel Roshard is a interior designer that has wide knowledge of home improvement tasks and projects, covering roofing and roof installation costs in one of his sites. Read more about Roofing Costs, and roofing information and buying tips.

Soundproofing On a Budget

2008-03-28T01:41:00.000-07:00

Soundproofing your home does not have to cost a fortune. If you are under new construction we all know that money it tight. There are many common hardware store items that can be used for soundproofing that won?t break the bank. Most people don?t think of sand as a soundproofing material, but it actually a very good for soundproofing. If your walls are re-enforced, you can use sand in the stud cavities as a soundproofing material. You must be sure that your walls can withstand the weight of the sand. Always use refined or purified sand, not common beach sand that could cause mold or have other bacterial in it that will cause you problems down the line.

Let?s say you are in the middle of new construction on your new home and you know that one of the rooms is going to be your new home theater. You want that room soundproofed but you budget is already stretched to its limits. Did you know that you can use common rolled roofing material from Home Depot or Lowe?s? Rolled roofing is what is generally used on buildings like chicken coops and other roofs where aesthetics is not an issue but stopping leaks is. Rolled roofing generally comes in 30? long rolls and is 3? wide. I hear the little wheels in your brain spinning at a hundred miles and hour. What am I going to do with all this rolled roofing material? Well, I?m glad you asked. One of the best soundproofing agents on the market today is mass loaded vinyl, (MLV for short) Mass loaded vinyl is a high grade vinyl material that is impregnated with barium salts and silica to give it the same soundproofing properties as lead sheeting without the hazards associated with lead.

Now MLV can cost from $1.25 to $2.00 per sq ft and when you are building your new dream home that just might be beyond your budget. So now enters the rolled roofing material. I am suggesting that you stretch the rolled roofing material across the studs or the joists if you are soundproofing your ceiling. You will staple or nail the rolled roofing directly to the stud structure like a membrane across the face of the studs. The next section of rolled roofing should overlap the first piece by at least 1?. It is essential to caulk the over lap with an acoustical caulk (hey you have to buy something from the soundproofing guy for giving you all this free advice, right?). The acoustical caulk can be purchased from any reputable soundproofing company like Acoustical Solutions, Sound Isolation Company, or Soundproofing America. Any of these companies will carry a good quality acoustical caulk and can ship it to you. Now back to our soundproofed walls. Once you have the rolled roofing in place and you have caulked the 1? over lap, you will also need to caulk around the entire perimeter of the newly installed rolled roofing membrane. There is a little saying we have in the soundproofing industry, ?Caulk is cheap?. I think you get the pun. The point is, use as much caulk as you need to seal every seam gap or crack in your soundproof membrane. You want this roofing material to be as sealed and air tight as possible. Now seeing as the rolled roofing does not have the same soundproofing horsepower as MLV, I would strongly suggest a second layer of the rolled roofing be applied to each wall and to the ceiling area that you that you are soundproofing. Stagger the seams wherever possible This is a small investment to have a soundproof room for your home theater or simply a quiet place to study.

Once you have your 2 layers of rolled roofing installed on your walls and ceiling and everything is caulked liberally, it is time for the finished layer of drywall. I would suggest installing a layer of 5/8? fire code drywall to finish off your soundproofing project. Don?t forget to tape mud and paint the finished drywall.

Now finally I would like to say a little bit about the acoustical caulk. Acoustical caulk is a cheap commodity when compared to the cost of other soundproofing agents, but it is one of the most essential parts of any soundproofing endeavor. Buy a good acoustical caulk and not some cheap silicone caulk. We are already being frugal with the soundproofing material; lets not skimp on the caulk. A good acoustical caulk is OSI-175 SC caulk or Tremco Smoke and Sound caulk. Both of these caulking compounds possess superb acoustical properties. If you have questions about acoustical caulk call one of the online soundproofing companies, they will be glad to help you.

Once the drywall is up and the rolled roofing is completely covered, you will discover that you have a well-soundproofed room and you did it a half the cost of using the professional soundproofing agents. That being said, today?s modern soundproofing products are extremely effective and I feel very reasonably priced compared to other specialized building materials. In this article I just wanted to show that there are other ways to soundproof a wall or ceiling with out using the more costly professional soundproofing agents. I hope this narrative has been informative; it was a pleasure writing it, as there is so little information out on the net about soundproofing. Once again, this is Dr. Bob?Out!

Dr. Bob O. Soundproofing America, Inc. Senior Technical Director Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079 E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com Website: http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Building and Soundproofing a Home Recording Studio

2008-03-28T01:38:00.000-07:00

"How do I soundproof my garage, basement, or a bedroom in my single family house or condo so my 4 piece rock band can practice and record and not bother the neighbors?"

If I had a dollar for every time I was asked this question, I would be in the Bahamas right now, instead of writing this article. Many factors need to be considered prior to beginning your studio or practice room-soundproofing project. Some of the questions you should be asking yourself are: What type of amplification will the band be using, are the drums going to be acoustic and miked or are they digital. Are you going to be recording live late at night or are we going to be doing "line in" recording only? These questions and many more need to be considered before the actual construction begins. If live recording and rehearsal are the plan, then maximum soundproofing will be needed. The most effective way to soundproof a garage, basement, or bedroom is to actually construct a room within a room (go to www.auralex.com) and download the free booklet "Acoustics 101", this is a wonderful resource for the home studio builder.

Their ideas are solid and applicable to any studio-soundproofing project. The room within a room concept utilizes the sealed dead air space that is captured between the inner walls and the outer walls to help greatly with the soundproofing endeavor. It is probably easiest to frame the walls on the floor and then tilt them up into place thus making dry walling the outside of the walls much easier. It is also highly recommended that another ceiling be joisted out for the room within a room, however, this is often times not possible due to space constraints.

In this case, the existing ceiling and ceiling joists may be used as the ultimate ceiling for the studio, provided that it is adequately soundproofed with materials such as the mass loaded vinyl or a combination of closed cell foam mat and MLV. I will elaborate on these materials, as we get further into this article. Once the walls are framed out and the right amount of "Dead air space" is determined, then it is time to install the soundproofing. The first order of business is to consider what needs to be done to the wall cavities prior to installing a barrier and finally the wallboard. I like to line the inside cavities with a closed cell vinyl nitrile foam mat such as American Mat. This mat (generally 1/4" thickness) is adhered to the inside cavity walls as well as the studs and joists using a contact cement to adhere the mat. Keep in mind that the American Mat is used to line the cavities only, not to fill the cavity. If thermal insulation is needed, use products such as rock wool, mineral wool, cut wool fibers, or my favorite, Roxul. Roxul is a great thermal rock wool based batt type insulation that has great soundproofing qualities. If thermal insulation is a requirement for the practice room or studio, then Roxul is the way to go.

Now we come to a crossroads, it is time to determine if decoupling the walls using resilient channels or American Sound clips is a necessity. De coupling is used when impact transmission or low frequency noise is a factor. Impact would come primarily from the drums (acoustic type) or the bass amplifier. However, if the band is using Marshall high powered amps (50 watt amps with 4 X 12 cabinets for example) along with miked acoustic drums and an Ampeg bass system, then decoupling will most likely be necessary. These methods and procedures will be explained in later articles. If decoupling were determined to be unnecessary, then the next step would be to find a good barrier material such as American mass loaded vinyl (which is a high grade mass loaded vinyl barrier). This barrier could be stapled directly to the studwork on a wall assembly or directly to the joists. This is a method that is used if cost or space constraints are factors. If the barrier material is to be stapled directly to the stud or joist framing then it is best that the seams be over lapped, caulked (using OSI acoustical caulking compound) and then taped with either a lead tape or a heavy-duty PVC seam tape.

Once the Mass Loaded vinyl (MLV) is installed and sealed, it is time to install the final layer of drywall. I always recommend using 5/8? drywall as the final layer because of its mass and its sound blocking abilities. . It is always advisable to butter the edges of the last layer of drywall with acoustical caulk. You want to grab every STC (sound transmission class) point you can when trying to make your new studio as soundproof as possible. Finally you will tape mud and paint your final layer of drywall. Now you have a great soundproof home recording studio. We will discuss acoustical treatments for your studio in subsequent articles, but for now you are well on your way to having a professional grade-recording studio in your home.

How To Compare Estimates For Roofing

2008-03-27T02:45:00.000-07:00

How do you decide which roofing contractor to use based on the estimates that you have got? It's easy enough calling a few and asking them for an estimate. But once you have it, how do you choose? You have to start even before you get the estimate. When you ask a contractor for an estimate, tell him you would like a very detailed one. It is only if you have this that you will be able to take an informed decision. Also keep references of the contractor at hand. The best way would be to get references from him, call up the party and ask what they think about him. This is the ammunition you are going to work with.

Don't go straight for the lowest bid. (Of course, you might choose him eventually, but don't jump in and select him on that basis before you have examined all the factors.) Take a look at the various important areas in the estimate and compare one with another on each point. First of all, look at the material used and how much it costs. The estimate should ideally state all the materials that are going to be used. If one estimate is considerably lower than the others, it could be that the material that has been costed for is of a quality that is inferior to the others. This may sound good to you but are you sure that it will last as long as the others? It would help if you decided right in the beginning that you will not sacrifice quality at the altar of price.

Check to see if the contractor has estimated the correct quantity of materials. This could be a bit difficult as most of us have no idea how much of what you will need. You could perhaps check this online in a forum or try and call someone who knows who can give you a ballpark figure once he knows the area to be done. Some people could give you an estimate per running foot which might make it easier for you to judge. Pay attention to the sealants and insulation that are estimated too as these have to be of acceptable quality. Do remember it means not just a long-lasting product you will be looking at here but something that could be power-saving as well. Thicker insulation material could mean lower heating and air-conditioning costs. This is because your roof then allows less cold or heat into your home. These costs could add up to a lot in the long run.

Does the labor factor in the estimate seem too high? Most contractors who employ trained and certified labor do tend to cost higher in this area. Do check to see if this is the case. Or if all of them have trained labor and one is charging higher. This could also reflect whether or not the labor is insured or not. It would help to pay a bit extra and get labor where all the insurance has been looked after by the contractor or firm you will be employing. This would save you a fortune just in case there is a mishap while your work is being carried out.

Check for transport, pass-through and miscellaneous cost as well. Very often, this is where there is a lot of 'plumping up' done. Ask for the specific break down especially if you feel that the cost for transporting the materials seems too much. Find out from where the materials have to be brought from and do your own calculations. Once you've made all the comparisons against these various parameters, use your notes to take a practical decision of which person will be best suited for the job. Let it be a logical decision, one that flows from the notes before you.

More information on roofing contractors
contractors

http://www.roofingcontractoronline.com

Cheap soundproofing using American Sound Isolation tape.

2008-03-25T04:00:00.000-07:00

American Sound Isolation tape is a great way to give you new home or addition some good soundproofing without spending a fortune. This sound isolation tape comes in 100 lineal ft rolls and it 1 7/16 " wide or basically the width of a stud or joist end. You simply peel off the backing and adhere to the Isolation tape to the face of all of the studs or the joist prior to screwing in the sheetrock. This will isolate the stud or joist structure from the finished drywall. This isolation helps to reduce airborne sound transmission as well as structure borne transmission through the studs or joists. There is another method that employs the American sound isolation tape and that is to double layer it on every other stud. If your studs are 16 OC then you will be taping every other stud at 32" OC. Once you have double taped every other stud, you will screw your drywall only into the taped studs. This will not only give you the isolation of the wood or steel structure from the outer wallboard, but it will give you the same effect as staggered studs. This method can be employed on both sides of the studs and to the end facings of joists. You can even tape the joists above before installing a sub floor, which will help to isolate the sub floor from the joists and the ceiling below. If you are in the process of new construction or remodeling where you have removed all drywall, taping the studs and joists with the American Isolation tape is essential. If you are remodeling or under new construction, American Sound Isolation tape is an effective and economical way to give your drywall the isolation it needs from the wood structure. This isolation will help to give you some good soundproofing between bedroom walls for example and doesn't cost you an arm and a leg to install. There are many other uses for American Sound Isolation tape that I just couldn't fit into this article. Builders and contractors across the United States and Canada are now using American sound isolation tape as a low cost soundproofing alternative to the more costly foams and barriers. For more information on American sound isolation tape or other quality soundproofing products go to my blog at: http://massloadedvinyl.blogspot.com/ Thanks for reading and learning about American Sound Isolation tape. This is Dr. Bob...Out!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O. Soundproofing America, Inc. Senior Technical Director Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079 E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.

Soundproofing your basement

2008-03-24T02:52:00.002-07:00

In today's world, basements are no longer simply places to store things like a glorified garage. With the price of housing ever on the rise, many people are converting their basements into rental spaces where they can make a little extra income each month. There are also a lot of folks who want to create a refuge space for reading or meditation or even a home theater in their basements. In this article I am going to talk about soundproofing your basement from the tenants below or from the noise transmitted by a home theater. The first order of business is to talk about the ceiling. Many times pipes and conduits as well as electrical and cable lines run between the joist cavities in a basement ceiling. A lot of people feel that need to have access to these components, but in order to achieve great soundproofing, there devices need to be sealed up by constructing a sealed drywall ceiling below. If you are concerned about the plumbing and wiring, have a professional come in before your drywall in your new ceiling. Remember that 90% of your plumbing and wiring is behind drywall and if there are problems with them then naturally the drywall will need to be removed. My point here is that if the plumbing and wiring has been inspected and given a clean bill of health, then go ahead and seal up the ceiling below. Generally most basement areas have low ceilings which prevents us from installing a fully floated ceiling, however there is always room for materials like mass loaded vinyl that can be stapled or nailed directly to the bottom of the joists like a membrane. You will caulk all of the seams as well as around the entire perimeter of the MLV using a good quality acoustical caulk, stay away from cheap silicone caulks, they do not work as well. Once the MLV membrane is caulked and sealed properly, it is advised that you also tape the seams with a lead tape or a mass loaded vinyl sealer tape. You will tape directly over the dried caulk. Now it is time for a layer of drywall. I would recommend a layer of 5/8" fire code drywall. This application will stop most of the airborne sound transmission and some of the impact noise from above, but the best way to alleviate the majority of the footfall or impact noise is to float your ceiling using sound clips and metal furring channels. I will talk more bout them in subsequent articles. There is one other method for soundproofing a basement ceiling that I will briefly discuss. Instead of using the mass loaded vinyl, consider installing 2 layers of sheetrock with a layer of Green Glue applied between the 2 layers. Here's how it works. First you make sure you have your batt insulation in place between the joist cavities, this is only necessary if your need the thermal protection of the insulation. Next you would screw in a layer of 5/8" drywall. Always screw in your drywall; never nail it in especially in a ceiling application. Then you will lay out your second layer of 5/8" drywall on saw horses, but on this layer you will apply 3 tubes of a product called Green Glue top the backside of the drywall. Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that is used to deaden or dampen the existing drywall and the newer layer that is being installed. You could apply only 2 tubes of Green Glue per 4' X 8' sheet of drywall, however using 3 tubes per sheet of drywall is much better for soundproofing. Once you have applied the Green Glue to the backside of the second layer of drywall, you will simply screw in the second layer directly over top of the first layer. A little hint here is to screw the second layer of drywall down as tightly as possible without pulling the screw through the drywall, this will insure the best dampening possible of both pieces of drywall. After that second layer of drywall and Green Glue are installed, you will simply tape mud and texture the ceiling as you would a normal ceiling. Well, that's all there is to soundproofing a basement ceiling. For more information about soundproofing a ceiling, walls or floors, read my subsequent articles or simply call a reputable soundproofing company, they will be glad to help you. Until next time, this is Dr. Bob...Out!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O. Soundproofing America, Inc. Senior Technical Director Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079 E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica

Green Glue instead of fiberglass insulation for soundproofing

2008-03-24T02:52:00.001-07:00

Old School soundproofing still believes that batt insulation is a good soundproofing agent. There are some good sound batt insulations out there such as Roxul AFB and Bonded logic's bonded cotton insulation and they work well for both soundproofing and thermal protection, however no batt insulation is strong enough to stand alone as the sole soundproofing material in a wall ceiling or floor assembly. If you can afford a good batt insulation I always encourage it, but if you are soundproofing as ceiling and are not really concerned about the thermal aspects of the ceiling then I feel adding drywall pieces cut to fit perfectly into the joist cavities and screwed to the sub floor above would be much more effective than any batt insulation. Now to super charge this application I recommend that before you screw the pieces of drywall to the sub floor you apply Green Glue sound dampening compound to the back of the drywall pieces prior to screwing them to the bottom of the sub floor. Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that is taking the soundproofing industry by storm. It comes in caulk tubes and is applied using a large quart size caulk gun. Basically you would cut the pieces of drywall to fit snuggly between the joist cavities. You would the liberally apply the Green Glue to the backside of the cut drywall and then screw it to the bottom of the sub floor. The Green Glue will be sandwiched between the drywall and the bottom of the sub floor. The tighter you screw the drywall down, the better the soundproofing will be. In essence, the pieces of drywall sporting the Green Glue in their backsides with become a most effective sound dampening system that will dampen the impact noise from above long before it is able to be transmitted into the joists and ultimately into the ceiling below. Now, is more better in this case? Absolutely, if you are able to double or triple the Green Glued layer of drywall you will indeed increase the dampening ability of the drywall and the sub floor and add greatly to the soundproofing endeavor. Once you have installed your layers of Green Glued drywall pieces into the joist cavities, now would be a good time to install your sound or thermal batt insulation. Now for our finished drywall ceiling, I recommend that we spend the money for 2 layers of 5/8" drywall. You will screw in your first layer of drywall directly to the ceiling joists. Now your second layer will be installed directly over top of the first layer however, you guessed it, I recommend that you apply 3 tubes of Green Glue to each 4' X 8' sheet of drywall that you put up. Once you have finished with the double drywall using the Green Glue, you should immediately detect a lack of annoying noise coming from the people above. You have soundproofed your ceiling and your neighbors don't even have a clue that there was a problem there. How awesome is that? Read more about Green Glue and soundproofing walls, ceilings and floors in subsequent articles, for now this is Dr. Bob....Out!!!

Dr. Bob O. Soundproofing America, Inc. Senior Technical Director Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079 E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com Website: http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Soundproofing a Ceiling with Green Glue

2008-03-21T02:47:00.000-07:00

If you have done any research on how to soundproof a ceiling from impact noise (footfall) as well as airborne noise, you have most likely discovered that a floated ceiling using sound clips and furring channels is the best way to combat these noises from above. In essence floating a ceiling on the sound clips and furring channels will offer you the best impact protection provided you add a layer of mass loaded vinyl directly to the open joists. This method of soundproofing is quite effective, yet it can be very costly to install and there is a great margin for error when floating a ceiling. There is another method of soundproofing a ceiling from impact noise as well as airborne sound that is not quite as effective as the sound clip system, but it will offer you a cost effective solution to this problem by reducing the noise to a tolerable level.

The system I am describing is the "Green Glue" system. Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that when applied between 2 rigid hard surfaces, such as drywall, MDF or OSB and will act to dampen or change the resonant frequency of the wall board. A quick analogy is to visualize you ceiling as being a drum head, if the drywall ceiling has no been treated with the Green Glue the sound will resonate much like the sound of beating a drum head. Now if you add the Green glue to the equation you have in essence placed a finger onto the middle of the drumhead and completely stopped the resonance of the drum. This is precisely how Green Glue works in a ceiling application. Acoustical Consultants and others in the field have long known that in order to achieve the best soundproofing, you need to deaden or dampen the structure above as well as the drywall. Green Glue does exactly that; it deadens the existing drywall as well as the new drywall with the Green glue applied that you screwed into the existing drywall ceiling.

Will Green glue get rid of all the impact noise from above? Probably not, but will it make your life more tolerable? You bet it will. Green Glue is an economical and effective way to soundproof your walls, floors and ceilings from both airborne and Impact noise from the people living above you. Green Glue is effective in most condo and co-op situations and works remarkably well in lofts as well. When you're at your wits end and need to soundproof right now, Green Glue is the fast and effective soundproofing answer. For more in depth information about soundproofing your ceiling with Green Glue, go to www.greengluecompany.com and read the many testimonials on this product and see the test that were performed with Green Glue against Mass loaded vinyl, lead sheeting, Quiet Rock? and Quiet Glue?. Green Glue out performs these and many other soundproofing agents hands down. Many companies such as Soundproofing America and Sound Isolation Company offer quality discounts and contractor pricing on the Green Glue. Thanks for reading. Dr. Bob.... out!

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

You can read more http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

Baby Proofing Basics

2008-03-20T02:44:00.000-07:00

One of the first things that goes through a new parent's head is the need for safety. Baby proofing your home is a major concern - and rightfully so. Many accidents that happen in the home can be prevented with a few safety precautions.

Before you spend a penny on baby proofing accessories, take an inventory throughout your home to look for trouble spots. Some examples of baby dangers are chemicals, open toilets, bathtub faucets, sharp edges on tables and other furniture, staircases, unprotected electrical outlets, heavy furniture such as bookcases and entertainment centers that could fall on baby, window blind cords, electrical appliances, sharp utensils, doors that lock on the inside, and choking hazards.

As you're going through your home making a baby-proofing inventory, make sure that you don't stay on your feet. Don't forget to get on your hands and knees and get a baby's eye level view of your home.

When you look at the above list, you may begin to feel overwhelmed - but don't panic! Baby proofing doesn't have to be done all in one day - especially if you start early in your pregnancy and baby's life.

You should begin thinking about baby proofing as soon as you decide to become a parent. However, even after your baby is born you have a little time to get the job done. At first your baby won't be able to move around the house at will and this gives you time to get your baby proofing done if you haven't already completed it. Certainly before your baby is crawling, you should have your baby proofing completed.

Many parents work hard at baby proofing their home, but don't take care of the hidden choking hazards that are lurking. An easy test to determine whether or not an object is a choking hazard is to see if it will fit through the hole in a toilet paper roll.

If an object can easily slide through, it can easily be picked up by small hands and put in the mouth. Make sure that you don't make a baby-proofing mistake by overlooking common objects in your home that could spell big danger.

Once you know what areas of your home need baby proofing, you can make some simple modifications to improve safety. Childproof latches, socket covers, and simply picking up dangerous objects can help make your home safer for your baby and improve your peace of mind.

Olga is a co-publisher of Baby Care Guide designed to Unlock your Inner Mother Code. Parenting manual that mother nature should have included with your new baby and contributing author to Baby Formula Advisor portal

Your Soundproofing Solution

2008-03-20T02:43:00.000-07:00

Moving to a new home, installing a home theater, having a new baby, getting new neighbors, or just growing weary of the everyday noise are all reasons that cause people to want to consider soundproofing. Another common soundproofing complaint is footstep noise from rooms above. ?I can hear my neighbors walking and sliding their chairs.? In a world where hard surfaced floors are increasingly popular, this problem is becoming increasingly important, and quality strategies and solutions are needed.

Acoustical Solutions, Inc. of Richmond, Virginia, who has been offering sound barriers, sound absorption and sound isolation products for twenty years, is now proud to introduce Green Glue. Green Glue is a liquid, waterborne, sound damping compound, which represents the highest performance product of its type. It is used in between sheets of drywall, subflooring or other building materials. It is significantly lower in applied cost than competitive products, with an excellent cost/performance ratio. It is also remarkably tolerant to real-world application conditions and carries almost none of the burden of precision required by many soundproofing systems.

The best application for green glue is between sheets of drywall, OSB or Plywood over the main part of a wall, floor or other structure. Green Glue will not be effective as a paint or coating. Green Glue is non-toxic with no mixing required. For walls, floors and ceilings, this product drastically reduces impact and airborne noise. It can also be used in commercial environments, new construction or remodeling of an existing space as well as home theaters, and recording studios.

Sound damping is a very straightforward concept. Simply put, sound damping is the rate at which something dissipates energy. In a constrained layer damping system, sometimes referred to as CLD, a damping material is sandwiched between two other (usually stiff/rigid) materials. For example, Green Glue sandwiched between two layers of drywall. Sound damping occurs when the viscoelastic center of the "sandwich" is sheared. The shearing pulls and stretches on the sound damping material. Under these conditions, the unique polymeric construction of Green Glue very efficiently converts this mechanical energy to heat. The vibration energy is not isolated; it's dissipated and removed.

Green Glue comes in 29 oz. tubes. You can use any quart size caulk gun, available at most hardware and building material stores. It is very fast and easy to apply. No special skills whatsoever are required. Recommended application is two tubes of Green Glue per 4' x 8' area or two tubes per standard sheet of drywall. If you are not on a budget, utilizing three tubes per sheet will improve performance. Each case of Green Glue covers about 192 square feet, or 128 square feet if used at the three tubes coverage rate. Do not use more than three tubes per 4' x 8' sheet, as performance will actually decline above three tubes per sheet.

Dave Ingersoll Acoustical Solutions 800 782-5742 info@acousticalsolutions.com

Batt Insulations, are they a sound investment in Soundproofing?

2008-03-19T03:51:00.000-07:00

"Which batt type insulation will give me the best soundproofing?" I hear this question a lot, or better still, "Do I need to add more soundproofing if I already have insulation in the walls and ceilings?" Keep in mind that any batt type insulation, though it may be a great thermal insulator, is generally not very good as a soundproofing agent. If batt insulations such as fiberglass insulation or Icynene were effective soundproofing products, the big boys like Johns Manville ? and Owens Corning ? would take over the soundproofing industry and leave the real professionals out in the cold. Luckily knowledge is still power and it will be a while before all the soundproofing companies are put out of business.

If you are serious about soundproofing always consider batt insulations as the proverbial "icing on the cake". They simply don't have the horsepower to be stand alone soundproofing agents such as lead, closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl. There are some good sound batt insulations on the market today, one is Roxul AFB? (acoustic fire batt). Roxul? is a rock wool that is made up of mining slag Canada that is hit with high pressure air thus giving it the properties of a very dense fiberglass insulation and while it will provide the end user with an R-13 for the 3 ?" variety and an R-19 for the 5 ?" batts, it's main function in life is to provide superb sound absorption and structural dampening of wall and joist cavities. It is a know fact that damping a structure; especially a wooden structure helps to control the transmission and vibration of sound through said structure.

Bonded Logic?, a company in Arizona also provides a cotton sound batt insulation that is great for filling voids and cavities where sound control is essential. The cotton is an inert material that absorbs sound but does not transmit through its fibers like fiberglass insulation does.

Fiberglass insulation is one of the worst for soundproofing agents out these. It actually transmits sound through its very fibers thus causing the annoying noise to appear amplified. If you are forced to use fiberglass insulation make sure it is isolated from either the sub floor or the ceiling below. Never pack fiberglass into cavities or voids. By isolation the fiberglass insulation from the sub floor above or the ceiling below you will break the sound transmission circuit from the floor above to the ceiling below. The same applies to walls, if the fiberglass insulation is touching one side of your drywall, make certain that it does not come in contact with the other side of the drywall. This makes perfect sense once you know the nature of fiberglass insulation.

To sum this up, never count on any batt type insulation to be your stand-alone soundproofing agent. You will always need the horsepower of lead, mass loaded vinyl, closed cell foam, or of course my favorite, Green Glue?. You can read about these great soundproofing agents in subsequent articles throughout the Internet. For now, this is Dr. Bob, The Green Glue King, signing off and may all of your soundproofing journeys be smooth ones.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

You can read more articles on soundproofing on our blog

Green Glue instead of insulation for soundproofing

2008-03-19T03:50:00.001-07:00

If you can afford a good batt insulation I always encourage it, but if you are soundproofing as ceiling and are not really concerned about the thermal aspects of the ceiling then I feel adding drywall pieces cut to fit perfectly into the joist cavities and screwed to the sub floor above would be much more effective than any batt insulation. Now to super charge this application I recommend that before you screw the pieces of drywall to the sub floor you apply Green Glue sound dampening compound to the back of the drywall pieces prior to screwing them to the bottom of the sub floor.

Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that is taking the soundproofing industry by storm. It comes in caulk tubes and is applied using a large quart size caulk gun. Basically you would cut the pieces of drywall to fit snuggly between the joist cavities. You would the liberally apply the Green Glue to the backside of the cut drywall and then screw it to the bottom of the sub floor. The Green Glue will be sandwiched between the drywall and the bottom of the sub floor. The tighter you screw the drywall down, the better the soundproofing will be. In essence, the pieces of drywall sporting the Green Glue in their backsides with become a most effective sound dampening system that will dampen the impact noise from above long before it is able to be transmitted into the joists and ultimately into the ceiling below. Now, is more better in this case? Absolutely, if you are able to double or triple the Green Glued layer of drywall you will indeed increase the dampening ability of the drywall and the sub floor and add greatly to the soundproofing endeavor.

Once you have installed your layers of Green Glued drywall pieces into the joist cavities, now would be a good time to install your sound or thermal batt insulation. Now for our finished drywall ceiling, I recommend that we spend the money for 2 layers of 5/8" drywall. You will screw in your first layer of drywall directly to the ceiling joists. Now your second layer will be installed directly over top of the first layer however, you guessed it, I recommend that you apply 3 tubes of Green Glue to each 4' X 8' sheet of drywall that you put up. Once you have finished with the double drywall using the Green Glue, you should immediately detect a lack of annoying noise coming from the people above. You have soundproofed your ceiling and your neighbors don't even have a clue that there was a problem there. How awesome is that? Read more about Green Glue and soundproofing walls, ceilings and floors in subsequent articles, for now this is Dr. Bob....Out!!!

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

You can read more articles on soundproofing on our blog

Home Building - Roofing

2008-03-18T03:40:00.001-07:00

The type of roofing material you choose for your new home will depend on the style of your home, your budget, your location and the makeup of the roofing material. With so many materials being manufactured these days there are many options to choose from to create a top that is not only visually astounding, but can weather the elements. In most cases, it is best to pick your basic style and color and then focus on the technical requirements and cost for installing the material.

Choosing a Roofing System

When you begin to choose your roofing system you'll need to consider several factors like the style, color, material, weight and cost. Here's some helpful information to get you started.
The style of the roof on a house used to be dictated by where you lived. In the Northeast it was slate, the South was wood shingles or metal, the West was wood shingles and shakes and Southwest was tile. This has all changed with the introduction of asphalt shingles, which can imitate the look and appearance of traditional roofing material at a much lower cost. It is estimated that 70% of new homes are being built using some kind of asphalt shingle. Whatever style you choose it should not only match the style of your home, but other homes in your neighborhood. Some style points are: slated roofs work best with brick houses, wood exteriors tend to look nice with a wood shingle or shake or a slate look and clay or concrete tile really top of a stucco house.

Color
There are many different colors to choose from because manufacturers are now able to imitate most colors and shades. Slate and wood tend to only come in their natural form and color. Choosing a color is usually determined by what would work best with the style of your home and what color siding or exterior color you are striving for. The color of your roof can also affect energy efficiency. Lighter colors will tend to reflect sunlight, which can be helpful in warmer climates, where darker roofs may be more beneficial in colder areas due to heat absorption.

Material
The roofing material you use can be influenced by local building codes. In general, most areas require that the roof material you use meet local fire ratings. The most flammable material is wood shingles and shakes, which are now required to be pressure treated with a fire retardant. Some neighborhoods have restrictions that only certain types or styles of roofs may be built, such as requiring that only wood shingle or shake roofs be constructed. This is usually in neighborhoods that have been classified as historic areas.

Weight

The weight of the roofing material you choose is important to know, since it may not be suitable for the roof framing you've had built. The weight can range from 250 lbs.. per 100 square feet for asphalt shingles to 2,000 lbs.. for slate. Anything over 600 lbs.. per 100 square feet will require you to strengthen your standard roof framing.

Cost
Cost can be a major factor in what type of roofing material you use. Asphalt shingles are the least expensive with material costs around $25 to $30 per 100 square feet compared to slate which can run in upwards of $500. You might want to weigh the cost of each material versus life span. For example, you'd be lucky to get 20 years out of a cheap asphalt shingle, but a good slate roof could easily last over a hundred years. Once you've selected a material, don't cut corners when it comes to picking a roofer. The material won't matter if the roof isn't properly installed.

Types of Roofing Material

Asphalt Shingles $50 to $150 per square (10 x 10 area = 100 square feet = 1 square) Life span: 12 to 25 years.

Asphalt shingles are the most popular material for steep-slope roofs and can be reinforced with organic or fiberglass materials. Although asphalt shingles reinforced with organic felts have been around much longer, fiberglass-reinforced products (called composition shingles) now dominate the market. Like most other roofing materials its fire resistance is categorized by Class A (most fire-resistant), B or C. Most fiberglass shingles have Class A fire ratings, and most organic shingles have Class C ratings. These shingles offer great style, color and versatility and even come in laminated grades that offer a textured appearance. If algae is a concern, you can have zinc or copper-coated ceramic granules applied to the shingles to resist an algae attack.

Wood shingles and shakes $100 to $165 per square (10 x 10 area = 100 square feet = 1 square) Life span: 25 to 75 years.

Wood shingles and shakes are made from cedar (the more expensive wood), redwood, southern pine and other woods. Wood shingles are machine sawn; shakes are handmade and rougher looking. Since most wood shingles and shakes only have Class C fire ratings or no ratings at all, you'll want to find out what your local building codes are before choosing wood. For an additional cost, you can find Class A wood shingle products from certain companies that apply a fire resistant treatment.

Clay tile $300 to $600 per square (10 x 10 area = 100 square feet = 1 square) Life span: 50 years.

Clay tile is very durable and comes in a variety of colors and finishes. Keep in mind it's a weighty material.

Slate $550 to $1000 per square (10 x 10 area = 100 square feet = 1 square) Life span: 50 to 100 years.

Slate is by far the most durable material you could choose and most expensive since its application requires special skills and experience. Your choice of color and grades depends greatly on where you buy it from.

Metal starts around $100 per square (10 x 10 area = 100 square feet = 1 square) but can run up to $600 for coated steels and copper. Life span: 20 to 50 years.

There are two types of metal roofing products: panels and shingles, which come in numerous shapes and configurations. Metal shingles typically simulate traditional roof coverings, such as wood shakes, shingles and tile. Aside from its longevity, metal shingles are much lighter than most materials and very resistance to adverse weather.

Fiber cement $500 per square (10 x 10 area = 100 square feet = 1 square) Life span: 20 to 30 years.

Fiber cement is durable and available in a variety of textures and colors. It's a good choice for homes that are near the ocean and must withstand salt air and wind and for homes in very hot, humid climates. The only drawback is it is very heavy and difficult to repair.

Concrete is now a roofing material. Shingles, simulated wood shakes, lightweight tiles and concrete panels are being manufactured from a variety of fiber-reinforced cement products. Some are coated with plastics, enamels, or thin metals, and some contain recycled material. The advantages of concrete roofing vary from product to product, but generally they all have a long life span, require low maintenance, offer good fire protection and are resistant to rot and insects. The drawback is the high cost, which varies from manufacturer.

The House Designers has picked the best selling, most popular floor plans direct from architects and designers

Basement Waterproofing - All You Need To Know!

2008-03-18T03:39:00.000-07:00

You may not have already thought about waterproofing your basement. However, it might be a good idea to start thinking about it now. You may not find any problems during the hot summer months, but when the rainy season arrives, you will no doubt start to notice the problems an un-waterproofed basement can bring!

What is Basement Waterproofing and Why Should You Do It?

Basement Waterproofing is not usually needed in newer homes as they are generally pretty well waterproofed already. However, older homes, or homes that were built before the year 1970, tend to have a lot more problems due to the fact that construction in the old days was not as good as it is today!

However, it is not only the construction that could be at fault. Over the years, a water protection system of a house can break down and become less efficient. It is only natural that wear and tear happens over the years and that is why older houses are more at risk. This is when you will notice that your basement is quite wet. If you leave that wet problem alone, it will only become worse, so it is always better to get the problem fixed before a major problem arises.

Why exactly should you fix a wet basement problem? Well, at first the wet problem may just cause a slight odor that you may think is nothing really to worry about and generally it is it not. However, the problem then tends to progress into forming mildew and that quickly damages any furniture or other things that may be in the basement. A damp environment generally decays rather quickly!

Another thing to consider is that asthma sufferers will not be able to go into the affected damp room as it could cause breathing difficulties. Finally, a damp environment attracts pests, so you will not only have an extremely wet, smelly, damaged basement, but you will also have a pretty serious pest problem before long, too!

So it is always better to waterproof your basement and be sure that you eliminate any problems before they get too bad.

The Causes of Wet Basements and What Can Be Done About Them

It is only natural for foundations to leak over time, as no foundation stays waterproof forever. Houses move around over the years and that can cause various cracks and gaps that allow water to come in. Sooner or later, water does tend to find a way indoors and the basement is the first room to feel the effects!

So what are the different methods of basement waterproofing? Well the first thing that should be done, is to go around your basement and try to find any gaps or cracks that may be letting water in. If you find any, fill them in with a waterproof compound. You should be able to find something suitable in your local hardware store.

You can also waterproof the walls by using a waterproof mix, again, bought from a hardware store. However, be aware that the waterproof mixture will not work on painted walls, so any paint needs to be removed before the mixture is applied.

Overall, it all depends upon how bad the leak actually is and how much pressure it is applying to the wall to determine what protection it needs. You may need to call a professional to help you if your best efforts do not come to anything. Generally, though, if done early enough, waterproofing your basement should be fairly easy and it is always better to do it every couple of years in order to ensure that you prevent any further problems from occurring.

For more information on basement waterproofing here at my site Basement Waterproofing Information

Roofing Faq: Basic Roof Problems

2008-03-17T04:22:00.000-07:00

* What are some of the typical causes of roof problems?

There are different types of roof problems, and it is best to be aware of them so you can avoid shortening the life span of the roof. Some typical roof problems are:

Not enough maintenance done. Failing to fix minor roof problems can lead to a bigger problems later on. Structural damage caused by any physical contact can also lead to more problems later on.

Climate and Weather. Extreme weather (hail, ice, snow, scorching heat) can expedite the deterioration of a roof. Strong winds can, of course, damage the roof as well.

Industrially polluted or salty air (as near the sea) and other atmospheric contaminants are also contributing factors.

Wrong design. A faulty design can lead to early problems. A weak or improperly attached roof can also collapse from weight.

Flashing problems. Flashings are used to make the roof watertight. Improper installation and weak flashing can make the roof leak and by the time it is discovered, water damage maybe extensive.

* How do I know if I need a new roof if I don't see any leaks?

Leaks are not the only reason for replacing a roof. Furthermore, if you wait until you begin seeing leaks, you may end up with more damage and a bigger problem than you had hoped. So, check your roof regularly for the following:

- Age of roof - Depending on the kind of roofing, a roof can last up to 20 years. If your roof is 15 years old, you should be watching for signs of needing repair.

- Missing or torn shingles - Damaged shingles expose the roof to water damage and rot. They also make it so that other shingles may be blown away in the wind. Old shingles may curl, split and lose their waterproofing effectiveness. These weakened shingles are more likely to be blown away by wind gusts.

- Rusted or missing flashing - Flashing is the metal that surrounds chimneys, skylights and vent pipes. It is also often found in the valleys of the roof where the roof sections meet. If it is rusted, damaged or missing, it could cause leaks.

- Gutters - Check gutters, downspouts and splash pans for damage or decay. Look for broken pieces of paint and scraps of roofing. This may be a sign that your roof needs some attention.

- Inside Walls - Watch for discolored plasterboard or cracked paint and peeling wallpaper indoors. This could be a sign of a leaky roof.

* What kind of preventive maintenance should I do for my roof?

Since roofs are constantly exposed to the elements, most roof damage results from weather and pollutants in the atmosphere. To save yourself big repair costs or even having to replace your roof before its time, you should perform a general inspection on your roof at least twice a year, checking for mildew, mold, rust, trapped water, and possible damage, and make minor repairs if necessary. That is the best preventive maintenance you can do.

Also, be sure to keep your roof clean. Remove any debris that may accumulate on it and clean out the roof gutters regularly. Also, repair any weather damage as soon as it occurs.

Rae Fakner is editor of Roofing FAQ, the online guide to Roofing. He also writes Roofing FAQ's for PrettyGreatAnswers.com

Solar Roofing Shingles

2008-03-17T04:19:00.000-07:00

Find out how to generate power on the roof of your house with solar roofing shingles.

No matter where you?re located, the price of electricity, the available sunshine and incentives by local and state governments have made it very appealing to install solar roofing shingles on your home or business.

In the beginning, solar power from the roof was considered too expensive for most homeowners. The initial expense has been reduced and often your electrical company will pay you for any excess power generated by your solar roofing shingles.

Solar roofing shingles are shingles that look very much like ordinary shingles but they allow your roof to generate solar electric power. Solar roofing shingles install just like traditional asphalt singles. Once you hook them to your home?s electrical system, you?re generating solar power that can drastically reduce your electricity bill.

Solar roofing shingles don?t require any additional support structures. They can withstand the elements of weather just as normal shingles. Some will even handle up to 80 mph wind loads.

Solar Roofing Shingles

If you?re wonder how they look, they?re designed to be aesthetically pleasing and can be integrated into almost any architectural style. They won?t stick out and look like an intrusion on the roof of your home. It doesn?t matter whether you?re remodeling or doing a new construction, solar roofing shingles are available for your project.

Most solar roofing shingles are made for a twenty year power output and do come with warranties. They are lightweight and can be installed directly on fire-resistant roofing underlayment.

If you?re planning to use solar roofing shingles, be sure to check with your local and state governments. Many offer assistance and other types of incentives for those choosing to use and produce solar energy. Some tax credit may even be available.

While the cost of solar roofing shingles is still higher than traditional shingles, with the incentives and the reduction of your electric bill you should be able to re-coup your investment in a short period of time. It?s well worth the effort to harness the power of the sun by using solar roofing shingles.

This article was written by Gregg Hicks of http://www.reliableremodeler.com which provides Internet-based home improvement information and services. Offering homeowners a simple, quick, and free way to access, qualified home improvement remodeling contractors

Soundproofing your Wall

2008-03-13T03:59:00.000-07:00

When soundproofing a wall, a lot depends on what sort of noise your were trying to block or absorb. For example, if you were trying to stop a neighbor's loud television noise from coming through the wall into your unit then you would use a barrier material to block the TV noise. Now if you were concerned about your loud music bothering a next-door neighbor, then both a barrier and a damping material would be in order. There are many different methods for soundproofing a wall from neighbors or just from common out-door sound such as aircraft or traffic noise.

If you are working with newly constructed walls that are only framed out and not yet dry walled, you would want to install a layer of sound batt insulation between the stud cavities. This insulation would be a mineral wool, a rock wool or cotton batt insulation and not common fiberglass batts. Once you have filled the cavities with the sound batt insulation you have a choice of products that will be the soundproofing horsepower, so to speak, for the wall. One of the best barrier materials on the market today is a product called American mass loaded vinylÔ. American mass loaded vinylÔ is a loaded vinyl mat that is impregnated with barium salts and silica to give it mass and allow it to emulate lead sheeting. The Mass loaded vinyl; MLV for short would be stapled or nailed directly to the studs. You'll caulk all of the seams as well as the entire perimeter with acoustical caulk. Acoustical caulk remains pliant throughout the life of the caulk and it also maintains the STC (sound transmission class) of the MLV at all of the seams as well as around the perimeter of the MLV. Once you have caulked the seams and the perimeter, you will then tape over the caulked seams with a seam sealer tape. This will insure a tight seal of the MLV membrane on the wall.

After the MLV is completely sealed, you will then drywall over top of the vinyl membrane with a layer of 5/8" drywall. This system is very effective at soundproofing a common wall between condo or apartment units.

There is another method for soundproofing a common between two units where the drywall is already installed and the owner does not want to remove the existing drywall. This method would require the use of a damping product called "Green GlueÔ" Green GlueÔ I a visco elastic damping compound that is applied between 2 layers of drywall or gypsum. You would apply the Green GlueÔ using a large quart size caulk gun. The minimum recommended amount is 2 of the 29 oz tubes per 4' X 8' sheet of drywall. You would lay out the drywall onto sawhorses and then apply the Green GlueÔ to the back side of the new drywall. Once the glue is applied, you would then screw the new drywall right over top of the existing wallboard whatever it may be. Two tubes per sheet of drywall is the minimum, but 3 tubes per sheet is much better. I suggest using 3 tubes of Green GlueÔ per sheet of drywall for all wall and ceiling applications.

These soundproofing techniques will work for home and commercial studios as well as home theaters and music practice areas. I truly hope this has helped you to understand the science behind soundproofing a wall in a apartment or condo setting.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/mass-loaded-vinyl.asp

You can read more articles on soundproofing on our blog http://massloadedvinyl.blogspot.com/

Soundproofing a wood or tile floor

2008-03-12T03:41:00.000-07:00

I have been getting a lot of requests lately to write an article on soundproofing a wood or tile floor in an upper apartment or condo unit. The solutions are pretty simple if you're installing wall-to-wall carpeting, but things get a little more complicated when you're dealing with hardwoods, ceramic or vinyl flooring. To begin with, when a manufacturers STC (Sound Transmission Class) claims appear to be too high always read the fine print. Generally they mean that you can only reach this high STC value in conjunction with a myriad of other products that must to be added to your floor or ceiling assembly. For example, if you're looking at ?"cork as a floor underlayment and the manufacturer claims that it will give you 55-57 STC, keep in mind that this value will only be attained with at least 3 inches of gypcrete (light weight concrete) poured overtop of the existing sub-floor and most likely the addition of a couple of layers of cement board (Hardy or Wonder board) will be needed as well. All of the STC values of these products are additive and so the manufacturer makes his claim hoping you won't read the fine print.

Even though these values are additive, there is always the law of diminishing returns to contend with, so you still may not reach your STC goal even though it says you do on paper. Many times the call out for a floor or ceiling assembly is such that ceiling below must be floated on sound clips and furring channels or resilient channels in order to obtain the 55-57 STC values that some manufacturers claim to get from their product. Basically, no soundproofing product on it's own will give you a 55-57 STC value. If you find one that does, please let me know and I'll get it on the website immediately. There are no magic formulas. What it boils down to is simply this, very few products on the market today can give you an STC value greater than 32 to 35 STC on their own, and thus these high STC claims are very misleading to say the least.

I had a customer who told me that a 1/8" cork mat would give him an STC rating of 55- 57 when laid beneath carpet and pad. I smiled and had him show me the cut sheet (spec. sheet) for the cork. The sheet called for the addition of a poured gypcrete sub floor and numerous other items that I can't recall off hand, that were needed in order to meet the 55-57 STC. Needless to say, he was shocked. Its back to that old adage, if it sounds too good to be true, it is! That being said, the absolute best way to soundproof an upstairs unit from a lower one is by floating the ceiling in the lower unit using sound clips and furring channel (hat channel).

This is the most common method used by contractors who have done any type soundproofing in their careers. This method, though more economical than the sound clips system is only about ? as effective and is generally installed improperly even by the most competent of contractors. The difference in cost for the sound clips and furring channels is well worth it to effectively soundproof a ceiling from impact or airborne noise from above. Now there are other materials that can be placed over the sub floor above that will help stop impact noise as well as block most airborne noise from below or above. One is called American Impact Pro and the other is American Impact Standard. These recycled rubber products that are specifically designed to be installed underneath hardwood and tile floors. They will also work well under carpet and padded floors.

When dealing with a hardwood floor, you can also use a product called America's Best, which is a mass loaded vinyl that is bonded to a layer of ?" closed cell foam mat. This material will provide a certain amount of floor resilience that's prevents much of the impact noise from traveling downward, however the only way this system will work properly is if the wood planks are at least 6' in length, it is also preferred that planks be interlocking on the sides. Mass loaded vinyl with foam backing is a resilient product and will allow the new hardwood floor to actually flex when walked on. This resilience adds to the footfall protection to the ceiling below. Long planked wood floors are the only hard surfaced floors that will work with America's Best vinyl. Other floors such as vinyl or ceramic tile or Pergo floor systems will not work with this product as these surfaces will have a tendency to separate or crack.

Finally, if your condo or co-op association board has a call out for IIC (impact isolation coefficient) then you will need to call a professional to discuss the procedures you'll need to follow in order to meet that particular IIC call out. Impact isolation is a whole other chapter in the Soundproofing Bible and will have to wait until next time! Thanks for reading and learning about soundproofing a wood or tile floor.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/mass-loaded-vinyl.asp

You can read more articles on soundproofing on our blog http://massloadedvinyl.blogspot.com/

Soundproofing from loud upstairs neighbors in condo or apartment

2008-03-12T03:40:00.000-07:00

One of the most common soundproofing questions I hear most is "How do I soundproof my condo or apartment from those noisy neighbors who live above?" Generally the most annoying noise is what is known as "foot fall" or "impact noise" Impact noise is noise that is caused by heavy walking on the floor of the neighbor above. It can also be caused by chairs dragging across a hardwood floor above or simply the impact of a fork or plate that is dropped on the floor above.

Impact noise is transmitted through the structural members of the floor/ceiling assembly and generally travels down through the floor joists and into the ceiling below at lightening speed. Impact noise is the most annoying noise you will ever have to deal in your condo or apartment. Sometimes it can actually feel like you neighbor is living in your unit. Sound familiar?

When dealing with impact noise, it is always best to completely remove the existing ceiling and start from scratch. This can be a real chore especially if your ceiling is plaster and not drywall. (For plaster ceiling consult local drywall contractor) Once the ceiling has been removed, it is then recommended that you fill the joist cavities with sound batt insulation such as rock wool, mineral wool, or cotton batt insulation. RoxulÔ and GreensoundÔ are common brand names for these batt materials. It is always best to completely fill the cavities with one of these materials, but if you don't have enough of these materials you can always fill the remainder of the cavity with common fiberglass insulation. Just make sure that the first layer of insulation (the layer against the sub floor above) is cotton, mineral wool, or rock wool.

Now that your joist cavities are filled, you will then want to "float your ceiling" on sound clips and furring channels. Float my ceiling? What are you talking about dude? I'm glad you asked; a floated ceiling is a ceiling that is connected to the ceiling joists using a device called a sound clip. Sound clips isolate the joists from the new drywall that will become your new ceiling. Here's how it works. You will screw the sound clips onto the bottom face of the joists and they will run parallel to the joists. The sound clips are then fitted with a metal furring channel also known as "hat channel" because it looks like a Dick Tracy hat if you look at it from the side. Furring channels come in 20 and 25 gauge steel, you can use either gauge with the AmericlipÔ sound clips. The furring channels will run perpendicular to the joists as they are fitted into the sound clips. Once you have all of your rows of sound clips and furring channel installed, you are ready to drywall. There is a trick to floating a ceiling and that is to make sure that your new ceiling drywall does not touch the adjoining walls and is completely independent of the ceiling joists.

You will screw in your new drywall using self-tapping drywall screws that will screw through the drywall and into the metal furring channels. Once you are finished screwing the drywall to the furring channels, you will make sure that you have maintained a ?" gap around the entire perimeter of the new ceiling. This gap will be filled in with acoustical caulk that is designed to remain pliant throughout the life of the caulk. Now that the new floated ceiling is installed and you have caulked in the ?" gap around the perimeter you'll then tape mud and paint the new ceiling as normal.

Now if you are looking for the ultimate in soundproofing from impact noise as well as airborne noise from above, it is recommended that you float 2 layers of 5/8" drywall on the sound clips and furring channel, and between the layers of drywall you will apply a product called "Green GlueÔ". Green GlueÔ is a visco elastic damping compound that when applied between 2 layers of drywall or any rigid wall board, acts to deaden both layers of wall board thus not allowing the drywall to resonate or transmit sound. When the sound is unable to pass through the drywall it dissipates rapidly and turns into heat energy.

To sum this up, the absolute best way to soundproof your ceiling from the noisy neighbors above is to float the ceiling using the Sound clips and furring channel, and then installing 2 layers of 5/8" drywall suspended from the sound clips and furring channels with Green Glue sandwiched between the 2 layers of drywall.

Now if space is an issue or money is a concern, you can get some great soundproofing and impact protection by simply adding another layer of 5/8" drywall to your existing ceiling, applying the Green GlueÔ to this new layer of drywall and then simply screwing the drywall over top of you existing drywall or plaster ceiling. This method will not be quite as effective as the complete floated ceiling system using Green GlueÔ, but if you are on a budget and need effective protection from the impact noise from above, Green GlueÔ is a great way to go.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site

Future Proofing: Why You May Need An Enduring Power Of Attorney

2008-03-11T03:00:00.001-07:00

People can become unable to manage their own affairs at any stage of life. An accident, or the onset of mental illness, may make the everyday routines of buying and selling a house, paying bills, managing a budget and making financial decisions difficult and stressful, if not impossible. By completing an Enduring Power of Attorney (EPA) you can ensure that if this should ever happen, the person you choose to be your representative (your Attorney) will look after your affairs. Friends and family do not automatically have the right to take over. The EPA has been created to ensure that while you are of sound mind you can appoint someone you trust to look after your affairs.

What is an Enduring Power of Attorney?

An EPA is a legal document granting to a named person or people the authority to act on your behalf. Subject to certain important conditions and safeguards it continues in force until death, even if you become incapable of looking after yourself.

What happens if I don't have an EPA?

Without an EPA the Court of Protection will appoint a Receiver to act on your behalf. This process takes time and is expensive. With an EPA in place there would be no Court of Protection charges or solicitor's fees payable and no annual fees charged by the court. Minimal fees apply to register the EPA.

What safeguards are there?

When mental capacity is lost the EPA must be registered before the Attorney can legally act. You and your closest relatives will be informed allowing you to intervene with the registration should someone try to use the EPA illegally.

Am I in control of my affairs if I sign an EPA?

Yes. The EPA does not restrict your rights to go on looking after your own affairs for so long as you feel capable. The EPA simply means that there is someone to take over if, and when, you cannot cope.

An Enduring Power of Attorney can help you prepare for the future. Ask your financial planner about it today.

Find out more about EPAs and estate planning from Stephen Hall Associates

Sharon Hurley Hall is a freelance writer, ghostwriter and editor.To contact Sharon, visit http://www.doublehdesign.com/

Basement Waterproofing - All You Need To Know

2008-03-11T02:59:00.001-07:00

What is Basement Waterproofing and Why Should You Do It?

So it is always better to waterproof your basement and be sure that you eliminate any problems before they get too bad.

The Causes of Wet Basements and What Can Be Done About Them

For more information on basement waterproofing here at my site Basement Waterproofing Info or you can get more information on Basement Waterproofing Products

Public Relations for Roofing Industry

2008-03-10T03:59:00.000-07:00

Not all industries are easy to develop good public relations strategies for. As a case study let us consider the roofing industry and how difficult it is to develop a good public relations program for something that is above our heads but no one seems to consider. Of course people know when the roof leaks it is a very big deal and gets their attention right away.

Weather issues during the first rain of the season always have roofers very busy trying to fix things. In the roofing industry roofing manufacturers need to promote their products as long-lasting and environmentally friendly. These are two issues that concern most consumers, citizens and the general public. But how can you do a public relations strategy for the roofing industry, as it is something no one really talks about?

Well, many roofing industry specialists spend lots of money in writing articles to put in to trade journals and they spend lots of money on trade shows and seminars and CD-ROM training materials for all the contractors. Often roofing material industry manufacturers will put someone in building material retail outlets to talk with contractors one-on-one and assist them in using their product and explain how it works.

It is not easy to develop a strong public relations strategy in the roofing industry, but the trick is to get the public talking about it and hopefully before it rains. Please consider all this in 2006.

Lance Winslow, a retired entrepreneur, adventurer, modern day philosopher and perpetual tourist.

Your Roofing Options

2008-03-10T03:58:00.000-07:00

There are lots of choices in what kind of roofing you want over your head.

What is it everyone cites as the basic requirement for living? "I'm just glad to have a roof over my head." Yet the matter is often taken for granted, with many homeowners paying little or no attention to the thing overhead that's keep them safe, warm and dry -- until it starts to leak, that is.

Then they notice.

There are dozens of materials commonly used in roofing, all of them functional as well as decorative. Indeed, most people choose their roofing material based on aesthetics or on what their local homeowners association mandates, rather than on what will function best.

Clay tiles (which are often made of concrete, not clay) are known for their durability, often lasting as long as 50 years. They are more expensive, though, which is a deal-breaker for many homebuilders.

A more basic roofing material is the asphalt shingle. They're not particularly attractive, but they do the job. They are particularly good in areas without much rainfall, such as the Southwestern U.S.

Also good in those areas are wood shake roofs, made of many individual pieces of wood that are affixed to the roof. These don't conduct heat as much as some other materials do, so summers are more bearable. (In colder areas, you might not want this kind of roof, as you might want something that WILL trap in heat.)

When roofing repairs need to be done, unless you have experience in that area, it's usually best to call in a professional. Roofing is notoriously backbreaking, arduous work, bad on the knees, back and shoulders. It's also harder to do it right than it may appear, and if your intent is to solve an existing problem, you're better off letting a pro do it and avoid the risk of making it worse by doing it yourself.

roofingshack.com is full of information on Roofing Shingles and Slate Roofing

Soundproofing a condo or apartment from upstairs neighbors.

2008-03-08T01:39:00.000-08:00

How do I soundproof my condo or apartment from my noisy neighbors upstairs? This is by far the most asked question I hear on a daily basis. It is a question asked by prominent architects, engineers, major developers, and contractors. We are now finding that this is also of major concern of individual homeowners who rent part of their house to tenants. Many factors need to be considered when assessing an upstairs noise issue. The first question you should ask is simply this, is the problem impact noise, or airborne noise (TV's, Stereos, telephones etc.) coming down from above.

Nine times out of ten, impact noise is the main concern. What is impact noise? It is the noise caused by people or animals walking across the floor above (generally hardwood). This type of noise is considered to be structure borne noise and is one of the most difficult noises there is to soundproof from. Impact noise is basically sound that travels directly through the joisting structure from the floor above, directly into the hard mounted ceiling below. Another term for this is known as "foot fall "noise. Impact noise travels through the floor joists structure at speeds of over 1200 times greater than the transmission of sound traveling through ambient air. Keep in mind that most home joist systems as well as studded walls are generally 16 inches on center, so not only do you get the speed of the impact noise shooting downward, but the perfectly spaced joists act as tuning forks thus causing the sound to sustain (last longer) compounding the impact problem. The best and most effective way to stop impact noise from above is to isolate the joist structure and the floor above (which is generally hardwood) from the ceiling below. This can be accomplished in a variety of ways.

The most common is to float (suspend on acoustical sound clips or resilient channels) the ceiling using either resilient isolation clips and furring channels (hat channel) or the most common method of floating, RC-1 (resilient channel). The good, the bad, and the ugly of both these methods will be discussed in depth. First we have the industry standard, which is RC-1 or resilient channel. This is a flanged Z channel (generally with only one flange that attaches to the joist) and a larger flange to support the floated drywall ceiling. RC-1 can be purchased from a drywall supply company, or a contractors supply house.

The resilient channels are usually attached perpendicular to the joists and the rows are evenly spaced approximately 2' to 3' apart. The longer flange (of resilient channels) in a ceiling application will all face the same direction to obtain maximum resilience in the new ceiling assembly. Remember, that the longer flange is the one the drywall screws into. Always use screws when you drywall, never use nails. Once the RC-1 is properly installed across the entire ceiling, you are ready to drywall. The new drywall will be screwed directly through the drywall and into the resilient channel's (longer) 1" flange. You will use 1 to 1 ?" self-tapping drywall screws or in rare cases, sheet metal screws. If the resilient (floated ceiling) is installed as per manufacturers instructions, there will be approximately a ?" gap around the entire perimeter of the new floated ceiling. The floated ceiling must never make direct contact with the adjoining walls. This is NOT negotiable folks. The ?" gap is then filled with an acoustical caulking, (OSI 175 is a good caulk for this application) and then finally the new ceiling will be taped, mudded, and painted just like a like a hard attached joist mounted drywall installation.

The caulk is the interface between the resilient ceiling and the adjoining walls. There you have it, the common mans floated ceiling. Now if you are really serious about soundproofing your ceiling, you have the sound clip and furring channel method of floating. This installation is quite similar to the RC-1 installation, however, the sound clips system will more than double the soundproofing and impact isolation protection of a perfectly installed RC-1 system. Basically you will need one sound clip for every 4 sq ft of ceiling area. For example, if your ceiling is 400 sq. ft. total, you will need 100 sound clips to complete the installation.

Check with the manufacturers installations instructions for more detailed installation information. Once you have the sound clips screwed to the joists, you will then snap in the furring channel. We haven't talked much about metal furring channels or "hat" channel, as they are commonly called, so let me briefly describe this material. Furring channel, or hat channel is a galvanized steel channel that is 7/8" in height and measures 2 3/8" from flange to flange. When using furring channels in conjunction with sound clips, you always want to purchase the 25 gauge channels as opposed to the 20 gauge, which is too stiff for this application. The furring channel will be compressed by hand and will snap perfectly into the joist mounted sound clips. The channel rows will be spaced from 2' to 3' apart (check installation instructions).

The first row will begin about 4" from the adjoining wall and then each row will be spaced from 2' to 3' apart. Now comes the fun part! You will screw the new drywall directly into the furring channel, keeping the screw as close to the center of the hat channel as possible. If the drywall meets directly in the middle of a channel, make sure to stagger the screws down the length of the drywalls (alternate them one each side of the seam). Now, just like with the RC-1 installation, you must maintain a ?" gap around the perimeter of the newly floated ceiling assembly where the drywall does not touch the adjoining walls. Once again, this area will be sealed with the OSI-175 acoustical caulking material, and you will tape, mud, and paint the ceiling as usual. There you have it folks, professional sound isolation at a fraction of the cost that the "Big Boys" charge. A good analogy of the floated ceiling method is to visualize your ceiling as being like a trampoline. The new ceiling must not contact the adjoining walls and thus it is free to do its resilient thing exclusively. Keep in mind that the impact isolation is accomplished at the sound clip and joist connection where there is a thick neoprene rubber grommet on the clip that breaks the circuit between the sub floor above and the newly floated ceiling.

Lastly, if you are able to float 2 layers of drywall on the sound clips, it is recommended that you use Green Glue sound dampening compound between the 2 layers of drywall. I hope this article has been informative and gives you hope that you can indeed soundproof you apartment or condo from those stomping neighbors upstairs.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

You can read more http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

Soundproofing a home theater

2008-03-06T02:40:00.000-08:00

In today's hurried world, most people don't have the time or money to waste taking the entire family to the movies (up to $50 to $60 per shot) so why not build out a Home Theater in your garage, basement, or spare bedroom? The construction and soundproofing of a Home Theater is much the same as building a soundproof music studio in your home. The only major difference is that with a Home Theater, you are less concerned with sound coming into the Theater than you would be if you were doing recording or voice-overs.

The most effective method for building your Home Theater is to actually construct a room within a room. Basically this means framing out new walls within the existing room. This is a lot simpler than it sounds. If you possess tool skills and are better with them than "Tim Taylor" on "Tool Time", then you most likely are qualified to undertake this project. You will want to frame out new walls within the existing room, this is pretty easy in a basement situation, where at least 2 of the walls are most likely poured concrete or concrete block, and are generally Earthen backed. They need no soundproofing whatsoever.

By framing out the room within a room, you are taking all of the negatives in the room that were working against your soundproofing endeavor, and now making them more friendly in the form of "dead air space". Dead air space (if it is sealed) is good soundproofer in itself, but you will still need a little more soundproofing horsepower if you plan to watch Star Wars or The Matrix (cranked up) in your new Home Theater. Once the new walls are framed out, it is time to soundproof. We have found that good batt insulation such as Roxul AFB or Roxul Safe which are very effective when placed in the stud or joist cavities. If you are unable to find the Roxul products, then use a good quality rock wool or mineral wool to fill the cavities. The next step would be to adhere a layer of American Mass Loaded Vinyl directly to the stud structure. Attaching the MLV directly to the studs or joists allows the vinyl to resonate or move with the sound.

If the MLV is able to resonate, it will work to it's full potential and will give you the sound blocking required for a well-soundproofed theater. The MLV will be stapled (industrial air drive stapler) or nailed (using roofing nails with the large plastic heads) to the studs or joists. If you are able to over lap the seams that would be better, however, if that is not possible, you will want to butt the seams together tightly and caulk both the butted seams as well as the entire perimeter of the newly installed MLV. You want the MLV to act as a soundproof membrane on your walls and ceilings. Caulking and taping the seams is essential for to seal the MLV membrane. The caulked seams will also need to be taped with a quality MLV sealer tape before installing the new drywall. I recommend installing 2 layers of ?" drywall for all of the walls as well as the ceiling. Now if this becomes too costly then a single layer of 5/8" fire code drywall will be sufficient. This should complete the soundproofing portion of your home theater.

Finally, if you are installing 2 layers of drywall to your home theater walls, it is highly recommended that you apply at least 2 tubes of the Green Glue damping compound to the second layer of drywall. Simply lay out the second layer of drywall on saw horses and apply 2 tubes of the Green Glue to the back of the drywall and then simply screw in your new layer of drywall to the existing drywall with the Green Glue sandwiched in between. The Green Glue will dampen both layers of drywall and will also stop the sound of the home theater from flanking onto the walls. Once this is complete, you with then need to acoustically treat the room to give it the look and the acoustical properties of a real theater. We will discuss this in our next article.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

Soundproofing a shooting or firing range

2008-03-06T02:37:00.000-08:00

Many cities and municipalities are looking for state of the art soundproofing products and procedures for soundproofing a public, private, or and even home shooting ranges. The soundproofing materials used must be impervious to smoke and gunpowder residue and must be resilient (able to take a round without disintegrating) and easy to clean. Some folks feel that convoluted foam mat (bedding or egg crate foam) will work in such applications. This is a completely wrong assumption because convoluted foam is an open celled foam and has no soundproofing qualities whatsoever.

So how do you get both absorption and sound blocking from one product, that is impervious to moisture and will stand up the rigors of a live firing range? Many large cities have contacted me desperately looking for just such a material and believe it or not we have exactly what they are looking for. It's the closed cell vinyl nitrile America mat and it has been used in many different ranges throughout the country. It is extremely flame retardant and only absorbs water into the first 6% to 8% of the mat. We have found through real life experience that this absorbed moisture dissipates rapidly and never causes mold, mildew, or deterioration.

America mat is both a blocker and absorber that is extremely resilient and versatile in the shooting environment. The mat comes in thick nesses of ?" all the way up to 2" thick, but we have found that in most instances the ?" America mat does the job. This foam mat would be adhered directly to the walls and ceiling of the range tunnel and in some cases it would even be adhered to the floor. This will provide complete coverage thus forcing the sound to be absorbed into the mat and with no way out it dissipates rapidly. Major shooting ranges have used this foam mat even on outdoor ranges where the material is exposed to the elements.

Now we really don't recommend direct exposure of this material to the elements (especially in the snow), but the feedback we have received in such applications has been favorable indeed. This material has been used in the cities of Boston, New York, Oceanside California, and Kansas City and all the feedback was positive. The thicker the foam, the better the results, but for a basic handgun range, the ?" America mat should be sufficient. There are many other applications for America mat, but one of the most popular is for shooting ranges. It is a phenomenal product.

There is now a new product that is also used extensively in firing ranges and police training facilities. This new product is called Silent panel. I will talk more about Silent panels in my next article. Thanks for reading and learning about soundproofing a firing range.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

Starting A Roofing Business - A Rewarding Opportunity For You?

2008-03-05T02:58:00.000-08:00

Roofers are some of the people I respect the most. Their jobs are very important, because if they do not do a good job putting a roof on your house, then you will have all sorts of problems. A roof helps to keep the heating and air conditioning inside the house, and also most importantly keeps the wind, rain, and snow outside of the house. Without a good roof, your investment in your house will be washed away in no time. (Pun intended) However if you have noticed, there are not many roofing companies out there. I believe that the reason for this is that it is not easy to start a roofing business.

One of the main problems with starting a roofing business is the skills needed to be able to successfully put a new roof on a house. Another problem is that these skills are usually not taught in any school, so you have to find someone that is experienced in this area, and mentor under them for some time before you are able to perform the task on your own. Good employees can also be very hard to find to work in the roofing business. The job is very demanding, and has to be performed in extreme heat and extreme cold, so it takes a special type of person to be tough enough to perform this job.

As if these problems were not bad enough, another obstacle to starting a roofing business is trying to acquire enough capital to get started. Since many of these roofing businesses fail for the reasons above, banks and other lenders are sometimes wary about loaning money to a startup roofing business. Even if you are one of the lucky roofing businesses to get funded, you still have the problem of developing a customer base. Many consumers will not hire a roofing business unless they have quite a bit of experience and many references. It is hard to get experience and references if you can not get a job in the first place.

However if you can get past all of these obstacles, then starting a roofing business can prove to be very profitable. As the saying goes, reward is in direct proportion to difficulty and/or risk. If you're interested in starting a roofing business, and you do it right, you could be on your way to building a very successful business!

Visit our Roofing Franchise website to learn more about starting a roofing business.

Selecting the Right Asphalt Roofing Shingles for Your Home

2008-03-04T02:47:00.000-08:00

The Difference between Fiberglass and Organic Asphalt Shingles

Asphalt Shingles are one of the most common choices for roofing materials. As a matter of fact, at least 75% of the homes in the United States use asphalt shingles. Asphalt shingles come in various styles and costs and have warranty packages from 20-40 years.

There are two types of asphalt shingle construction: Fiberglass mat based shingles and Organic mat based shingles.

Fiberglass based shingles are thinner and lighter, as their backing is made out of a fiberglass mat. Note: A bundle of asphalt shingles can weigh between 70 and 140 lbs and there are typically 3 bundles of shingles per square (100 sqft per square of shingles). Consequently fiberglass mat based shingles are easier to lift making a roofer's job easier when carrying shingles up a ladder. Fiberglass mat shingles are also more fire retardant and typically have slightly longer warranties than organic based shingles.

Organic based shingles are heavier and considered more rugged as their mat backing is made out of felt paper and asphalt. They are heavier due to the fact that there is literally more asphalt used in them than a Fiberglass mat shingle. Organic mat based shingles are also considered more flexible than fiberglass shingles, however they are known to be more water absorbent and can warp over time. As a result of these differences Fiberglass mat shingles are used much more prevalently in the southern and central part of the United States, and Organic mat based shingles are used more in the northern part.

Fiberglass Asphalt based shingles used on your home should be compliant with ASTM D-3462 standards, and Organic based shingles used on your home should be compliant with ASTM D-225. More and more municipalities are requiring shingles to meet these standards, so you should check with your local building inspector and read the label on the shingles prior to purchasing them. Fiberglass and Organic mat based shingles are comparably priced. They can range anywhere from $25 to $80 per square.

3-Tab shingles have been around for a long time and are still the most common shingle installed, however more and more homeowners are moving towards architectural shingles. Architectural shingles are a little more expensive but are actually easier to install, as less care is needed in ensuring straight lines. Architectural Shingles typically also have longer warranty periods.

3-Tab shingles typically require greater skill and longer installation times as the roofing contractor needs to ensure that wavy shingle lines are not created when installing the shingles. Architectural shingles, on the other hand, are a little easier to install as the lines and shadows are designed to be more complex. As a result, imperfections in the installation process of architectural shingles can be more difficult to see.

Architectural shingles typically cost most than 3-Tab shingles, however their cost may be somewhat mitigated by a lower installation cost.

Whatever shingles you decide to use, make sure you read the shingle packaging labels and check with your local building inspector first. Your home's roof is one of the most import aspects of your home. An improperly installed shingle job or the installation of the wrong shingles can lead to expensive water damage and high repair costs.

For more help on Shingling Your Home's Roof, see HomeAdditionPlus.com's Asphalt Shingle Roofing Bid Sheet. The Asphalt Shingle Roofing Bid Sheet will help to ensure that your roof won't end up with a blue tarp over it and a dumpster sitting in your yard for weeks as you wait for the roofing contractor to come back and finish roofing your home.

Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes and is a licensed real estate agent. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more home improvement information visit http://www.homeadditionplus.com and http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com

Reclaim Your Basement With Basement Waterproofing

2008-03-04T02:46:00.000-08:00

"It used to be so damp and dark here," says a wife whose 50-square-meter basement used to be barren due to the frequent flooding caused by the seepage of outside water into the basement.

Fortunately, experts recommended basement waterproofing as the most effective method of channeling water from the outside, thereby, preventing the leaks in the basement walls, and flooring.

Since the inception of waterproofing, basement waterproofing has long been one of the most important concepts, especially now that most families would like to maximize the function of their basement.

From the typical stockroom, basements are now made more productive and appealing through the help of basement waterproofing.

Maximizing the Space

Basement waterproofing is normally applied to basements whose structural condition is prone to water seepage. Considering the fact that the basement is situated at the lowest portion of the house and with its below the ground level, water leaking into the walls and flooring of the basement is not a surprising occurrence.

However, this natural dilemma should not be mainly blamed to its basic structural condition. The type of drainage used can also be one cause of water seepage in the basement.

Nevertheless, with basement waterproofing, your basement will definitely be dry all throughout the year.

With that in mind, you can now easily maximize your space by transforming your basement into a more useful portion of the house, such as making it your child's playroom or study room.

No matter what you decide in transforming your basement, it is imperative that you have properly applied a good basement waterproofing to avoid rainy day catastrophes.

One of the main reasons why water retain and seeps into the basement is that the kind of waterproofing facility used was not right.

Cracks on the walls and floors are normal. This is often caused by the pressure from the outside environment. If not treated well, water can seep through and stay on the basement for such a long time.

Hence, to avoid such problem, it is best to apply basement waterproofing. The success of this method will mainly depend on the kind of product that will be used in the process.

With a stiff competition in the market, choosing the best basement waterproofing products can be very tricky. You can be lured into believing that a particular product can render the best results for your basement.

Next, there are so many types of basement waterproofing that choosing the best procedure can also be a problem. So in order to identify the most appropriate basement waterproofing method for your area, it is imperative that you research on the ideas first and evaluate which method will work best for you.

To expedite the process, try to assess your basement first. How big are the cracks? Can they still be repaired? Is the outside water still stagnant? The idea is to repair the walls and flooring first before you apply basement waterproofing.

If there are no obvious cracks present, you can directly apply basement waterproofing into the walls and its flooring.

It is also important to check on the kind of drainage used outside the house. Even if you have applied the most effective basement waterproofing, wrong drainage system can still aggravate the problem.

Your drainage system includes "downspouts" that build up excessive water. If you have used the wrong type of drainage system, excessive amount of water will hold on to the ground, thereby, finding its way back to your basement.

To get you started, here is a list of some factors that you need to consider before you start on a particular type of basement waterproofing.

1. The physical condition of your house

An old house is more prone to cracks and basement problems than a newly built home. So if you know that your house might be prone to cracks due to old age, try to solve the problems first before you apply basement waterproofing.

Applying basement waterproofing will be useless if you have not solved the primary problems first.

Moreover, physical condition outside the house can also affect the problem. Hence, it is best to analyze the overall condition of the house first before applying basement waterproofing.

2. Climate or weather condition

If you live in a place that has lots of rainy days all year round, applying basement waterproofing is extremely important.

Certainly, basement waterproofing is the ideal way to stop all the water problems in your home.

Lee Dobbins writes for http://basement.biz-review.com where you can learn more about basement remodeling and maintenance

Soundproofing Solutions for Your Home or Business

2008-03-03T01:51:00.000-08:00

We live in a noisy world. Noise seems to be everywhere - traffic, construction, loud music, crowded buildings. Noise can even be a problem in labs and offices. The problem has become so wide-spread we have even created a term for it: noise pollution. It may not be possible to stop all that noise, but thanks to advances in technology, there are ways to isolate ourselves from it. To understand how we can begin to isolate ourselves from all that noise, we need a basic understanding of how sound travels - not just through the air, but through walls, floors and ceilings.

Sound travels through the air in waves, and those waves cause the objects they come into contact with to vibrate. When a sound is loud enough, those vibrations can travel through walls, floors and ceilings transferring sound into our buildings from the outside or from room to room and floor to floor on the inside. The key to effectively stopping unwanted noise from invading our space is to stop the vibration.

In most homes and commercial buildings, walls and floors have an interior support structure of wood or steel studs or joists and are covered with some form of rigid sheeting like drywall or particle board flooring, leaving an air space between the walls, floors and ceilings. That air space allows for the easy transfer of sound waves with very little solid mass for the sound to vibrate through or slow its transfer. One of the most common methods used to reduce the transfer of that sound has been to insulate the wall, floor or ceiling with one of several types of insulation. This may reduce the transfer of sound vibrations through the air space, but does nothing to stop the sound transferred through studs, drywall, joists or flooring.

It's also important to understand that not all sound frequencies are not the same when it comes to insulation. Lab tests show that low frequency sounds aren't stopped by insulation, and high frequency sounds aren't reduced significantly. Insulating the air space is only effective in deadening mid-range frequency sound.

Then how is sound transferred in an insulated wall? When drywall is nailed directly to wall studs, sound waves vibrate the drywall, that vibration is transferred to the stud, and is finally transferred to the drywall on the other side of the wall. That vibrates the air in the room and the vibrations become sound waves again. The industry calls this coupling.

One method to reduce this transfer of vibration is called de-coupling. De-coupling is nothing more than creating a space between the drywall and studs. This dampens the sound. That is, the vibration and resulting transfer of sound is greatly reduced. This can easily be done during construction by placing a resilient cushion between the drywall and stud to absorb the vibration. There are clips and channels available for that purpose. Another even more effective method is to install a cushioning sheet over the stud wall and under the drywall, or over floor joists and under sub-flooring, When combined with insulating the air space between walls and floors, there is a significant reduction in the transfer of high, low and mid-range sound frequencies.

It is also important to seal around all outside door and window openings with a good quality caulk. To reduce the transfer of sound from room to room, don't forget to seal outlets and install duct liners in furnace and air exchange duct work. When used together, each of these methods will go a long way in controlling the transfer of unwanted sound.

So far we have considered reducing sound in a home, a commercial building or a single room or area. And these methods are really only practical for new construction. They also can't completely eliminate sound - only reduce it to acceptable levels.

What can be done when retro-fitting a room isn't cost effective and sound isolation is needed? The answer may be as small as a portable "mini" sound shelter or as large as a sound isolation room. There are any number of applications where sound isolation is required. Hearing testing, speech therapy, psychological testing and data recording and industrial applications are just a few.

To meet those needs audiometric booths, sound isolation rooms and noise reduction rooms are available. By incorporating innovations like carpeted vibration isolated floors, space-saver roof mounted ventilation, recessed electrical outlets, noise-lock doors, double glazed windows and double thick modular wall panels, sound can be controlled in small spaces such as a portable booth or as large as a room within a room.

Understanding a bit about sound, how it travels and what can stop it can help you decide what you need to do to control the sound around you. Whether you want to keep the noise of the outside world out, quiet a part of your home or commercial building or need an area of sound isolation, understanding the technology that is available can help you make a sound decision.

Integrity Acoustic Solutions builds, installs, and repairs audiometric booths, sound isolation rooms, and noise reductions rooms for medical and educational institutions.

Hidden Dangers in Baby Proofing

2008-03-01T02:10:00.002-08:00

As a mom to a 6 month old, this baby proofing thing is all new territory to me. There are so many things to think about, and the cold hard truth is that some of the "so-called" baby proofing products can actually do more harm then good! Keep reading to find out the top five products that most parents don't think about when it comes to baby proofing their homes.

#1 Sippy Cups. While they may appear convenient, sippy cups are nothing more than baby bottles in disguise, says the American Dental Association. So when an infant sucks on one, the milk or juice comes in direct contact with the back of the teeth and generates bacteria.

What should you use instead? To curb tooth decay the American Dental Association says babies should stop using a bottle and begin drinking out of a regular cup by their first birthday. If some hand-holding is required during the transition, consider a training cup with a lid and open spout that will teach your child how to properly sip a beverage while limiting spills.

#2 Wipe Warmers. Most parents would never consider wrapping their baby in an electric blanket. Yet many mothers and fathers buy baby-wipe warmers that carry the same risk of starting a fire. Over the past decade at least three manufacturers had their warmers recalled by the U.S. Consumer Products Safety Commission when cracks in the interior tub allowed water to come into contact with the unit's electrical components.

#3 Plastic Outlet Covers. At first glance they seem brilliant. Just pop one in and no small fingers will be finding their way into the socket. What parents don't consider is that a baby can easily choke on one if Mom pulls the cover out to do a little vacuuming and then forgets to reinsert it into the wall. "As a general rule anything that is small enough to fit through the tube of a roll of toilet paper is a choking hazard," says Dr. Garry Gardner, a pediatrician who sits on the American Academy of Pediatrics' Committee on Injury, Violence and Poison Prevention.

Instead, parents should consider swapping out their traditional outlet plate covers with one that has sliding plastic doors to cover the sockets, suggests Fields. They're not only safer, but also more convenient to use.

#4 It can be tempting to adorn a nursery with cozy bedding sets complete with fluffy quilt, bumper and matching pillows. But most safety gurus recommend avoiding them for fear of suffocation or rebreathing (when a child breathes in his previously exhaled carbon dioxide) that can lead to Sudden Infant Death Syndrome (SIDS). "We believe the crib should be bare," says Don Mays, senior director of product safety and consumer sciences for Consumer Reports. "Put the baby in warm clothing and remove all soft bedding."

#5 Another sleeping hazard: the sleep positioner. This is a piece of foam that's used to prevent a baby from turning over onto his or her stomach. (Sleep gurus warn that infants shouldn't sleep on their tummies since it could cause SIDS.) "While it was designed for safety it actually compromises it," says Consumer Reports' Mays. As babies in a positioner turn their heads from side to side the foam can conform to the face and cause suffocation and rebreathing.

A safer sleep option is to snuggly swaddle infants for the first few months. Then once they are strong enough to turn over on their own, it's safe to let them move around and sleep however they want.

Sarah Jones is a first time mom to a young son, and runs a blog entitled "The Adventures of Super-Mommy and Spitup Boy (http://www.super-mommy.com) She has just published her first book. "Diapers on a Dime", which is available for sale on her website. Super-Mommy.com

About Roofing Shingles

2008-03-01T02:10:00.001-08:00

Roofing Shingles Installation Basics

When it comes time to replace the shingles on your home, you will need all the information you can get in regards roofing shingles installation basics. Therefore, why not start at the beginning, with the types of roofing shingles. There are four popular categories of shingles, wood shakes, slate, laminated, and asphalt shingles. To know which you should be choosing, you should understand how each one works and what features they have, all of which can help you determine which is right for you.

Asphalt roofing shingles are the most popular of all types. They are constructed with paper, glass, or fiber, with intense durability. These shingles are designed to last between twenty and thirty years.

Laminated roofing shingles are also becoming extremely popular. These shingles have a design that adds depth, color, and character to any room. Constructed with many different materials, such as asphalt, it creates a look of expensive roofing materials, without the large costs.

Slate roofing shingles also referred to as stone shingles are heavy but durable. Popular, but not overly used before it tends to break easy and can be extremely hard to work with. Many people enjoy the natural, handcrafted, and colorful look that slate shingles offer, as well as the durability, which allows the shingles to last for more than 100 years.

Wood roofing shingles, also known as shakes, are constructed with different treated woods such as pine, spruce, or cedar, and although cedar is the best type of wood used. While with first installation, the wood shingles are bright and lively colors, after the first year of use, it will dull quickly to the color of gray. Furthermore, splintering, warping, and shrinking are common complaints with wood roofing shingles, and generally have to be replaced within thirty years or less.

If you simply do not know how to or want to install your own roofing shingles, your best bet is to hire a professional roofer. When contacting roofers make sure that you opt for a company that is well established, carries a business license, and has permanent addresses and telephone numbers. Ask to view the companies insurance, bonding, training, and certificate information.

You will also want to choose a company that provides you with a full, written estimate of every aspect of the job; this includes time of completion, warranty, labor costs, and materials they intend to use. Before choosing a roofing shingles installer, make sure that you obtain a minimum of three estimates. This allows you to compare prices, as well as warranty, services, and ultimately work ethics. Obtain references, this is obviously important, you are entrusting the roofer with a valuable possession, your home. You want to be sure that they are qualified, trustworthy, hardworking, and professional.

Daniel Roshard is a interior designer fascinated by garden architecture, he is currently studying interior design integration to public parks and gardens. Daniel is writing Roof Shingles and Roofing reviews for ZupaTips.com

Roofing Shingles Installation Basics

2008-02-29T01:14:00.000-08:00

When it comes time to replace the shingles on your home, you will need all the information you can get in regards roofing shingles installation basics. Therefore, why not start at the beginning, with the types of roofing shingles. There are four popular categories of shingles, wood shakes, slate, laminated, and asphalt shingles. To know which you should be choosing, you should understand how each one works and what features they have, all of which can help you determine which is right for you.

Asphalt roofing shingles are the most popular of all types. They are constructed with paper, glass, or fiber, with intense durability. These shingles are designed to last between twenty and thirty years.

Laminated roofing shingles are also becoming extremely popular. These shingles have a design that adds depth, color, and character to any room. Constructed with many different materials, such as asphalt, it creates a look of expensive roofing materials, without the large costs.

Slate roofing shingles also referred to as stone shingles are heavy but durable. Popular, but not overly used before it tends to break easy and can be extremely hard to work with. Many people enjoy the natural, handcrafted, and colorful look that slate shingles offer, as well as the durability, which allows the shingles to last for more than 100 years.

Wood roofing shingles, also known as shakes, are constructed with different treated woods such as pine, spruce, or cedar, and although cedar is the best type of wood used. While with first installation, the wood shingles are bright and lively colors, after the first year of use, it will dull quickly to the color of gray. Furthermore, splintering, warping, and shrinking are common complaints with wood roofing shingles, and generally have to be replaced within thirty years or less.

If you simply do not know how to or want to install your own roofing shingles, your best bet is to hire a professional roofer. When contacting roofers make sure that you opt for a company that is well established, carries a business license, and has permanent addresses and telephone numbers. Ask to view the companies insurance, bonding, training, and certificate information.

You will also want to choose a company that provides you with a full, written estimate of every aspect of the job; this includes time of completion, warranty, labor costs, and materials they intend to use. Before choosing a roofing shingles installer, make sure that you obtain a minimum of three estimates. This allows you to compare prices, as well as warranty, services, and ultimately work ethics. Obtain references, this is obviously important, you are entrusting the roofer with a valuable possession, your home. You want to be sure that they are qualified, trustworthy, hardworking, and professional.

5 Quick Roofing Contractor Tips

2008-02-29T01:13:00.000-08:00

Your roof is one of the most important yet neglected parts of your home. You don't usually think about your roof until it starts to leak or gets damaged. If it is time to have your roof replaced read these 5 quick tips to help you with your roofing project.

1. Get a written contract. Get everything in writing before your roofer begins work so that there are no surprises. The bid should be detailed giving you prices for labor, materials, etc.

2. Check your roofer out before you begin work. Don't just ask for references, pick up the phone and call them. Also make sure that they are licensed and insured.

3. Never pay for the job all up front. Most companies will want some sort of down payment but you should never pay for the entire job before it has been completed.

4. Get multiple bids. Don't just get one or two bids. This is a big job and you need many bids to compare. Beware of the lowest bidder and remember that you do not want to be ripped off and you also get what you pay for.

5. Be wary of con artists. Watch out for lowballers wanting large deposits or contractors who knock on your door soliciting. If a deal sounds too good to be true it probably is.

Having a roof replaced is a big job. Take your time, do your homework and you will get through this home repair project easily.

Learn more about local roofers at the authors website. Find information on roofing and roofs.

One Year Later, Roofing Supplies Still Reflect the Effects of Katrina

2008-02-27T01:34:00.001-08:00

One year after Katrina made landfall in late August of 2005, the effects are still rippling through the construction industry, especially the roofing industry. All manner of roofing material and supply prices are up 10 to 20% over the last year. Many are in short supply nation wide.

It took only days for the markets to react to the perceived needed increase in building materials in the storm ravaged southern costal areas of the United States. It took only a matter of weeks for the storm to have a major effect on the supply and price of available materials on hand nation wide. Some things like plywood and other forms of sheeting were in high demand just prier to the disaster, being used as damage control measures, and now even in higher demand after Katrina's passing.

Due to the vast amount of damage, and the material needed to rebuild those damaged areas, supplier seeing that shortages in production were inevitable, immediately raised prices to reflect the coming shortages. But the extent of damage was far greater then anyone had anticipated. Reports of damage took weeks and in some cases months to filter into the big picture. All the while suppliers pushed production plants into high gear to try to meet the staggering new demands on materials.

The problems of production quickly became apparent with major shortages in raw material as a result of the damage to southern sea ports where much of the raw materials used in production are received from suppliers around the world. Many of the damaged ports utilized special handling equipment and procedures that would be difficult to duplicate quickly in other sea ports around the country. These post Katrina developments all served to put a server strangle hold on production of Roofing material as well as many other building materials.

Roofing material suppliers diverted in transit shipments to staging areas close to heavily damaged areas. In many cases, larger warehoused stocks of tiles, shingles, metal roofing and related materials were snapped up from large to moderate distributors and transported to Katrina affected areas, leaving many areas of the country with little or no available roofing materials.

Some mistakes were made in the redistribution of roofing materials. Costal areas that are subject to hurricanes have special codes in place that set specific standards for roofing materials, meaning that roofing materials that are approved for use in Nebraska are not necessarily certified for use in hurricane prone regions of the country. Yet virtually all roofing materials were subjected to large quantity redistributions it would seem. One speculation is that companies were hoping for some new guidelines to be put in place that would allow them to use the currently unapproved materials by utilizing upgraded and modified installation methods that in theory would satisfy the roof testing standards. But this is only speculation.

Never the less it quickly became apparent to contractors and home owners nation wide that going to the local lumber yard or Lowes' or other building supply store and obtaining roofing materials will be a much more expensive and challenging experience, possibly for some time to come. It is not uncommon for local distributors to have to wait weeks or even months for roofing materials to become available. Even those materials that are not costal approved. The reason for this type of shortage is caused by the shift in manufacturing to produce more coastally approved materials, which is where the largest demand in usage is in the current market.

The shortage in conventional roofing materials has brought with it a renewed interest in less conventional roofing ideas in many areas of the country. Metal roofing which some years ago, was commonly thought to be reserved for commercial buildings, is now growing in popularity with home owners. New concepts in metal roofing systems as well as new designs have made it an appealing alternative to such things as asphalt shingles and clay or concrete tiles. Metal roofing in its infancy was less then esthetically pleasing to the eye. New designs have emerged in recent years that can mimic almost any kind of roofing material, making it one of the more versatile roofing materials available.

Due to the large amount of new and repair construction taking place in storm damaged areas, metal roofing too has come to be in short supply along with all other roofing materials, and may remain so for some time to come. Only about halfway through this year's hurricane season, no major storms causing any significant damage have hit landfall in the United States. But should that change, and a storm would happen to cause even moderate damage along any of the nations cost line, the results could be even more devastating to the roofing and general construction industry, the effects of which will be felt by consumers for years to come.

The shortage in roofing materials, such as clay and concrete tiles has spawned a new industry so to speak; roofing salvage. With material increasingly hard to acquire, there are companies that specialize in sorting through discarded roofing materials searching for undamaged, usable materials that people are willing to pay for in order to complete restorations or repairs.

The total affect of Katrina will ultimately have on the roofing materials industry is hard to speculate on. Will prices continue to rise at the rate we have seen this last year? No one can say for sure, the determining factors are too great. Basic laws of economics apply, low supply plus high demand always drives prices up. Where will it stabilize? Again there is no way to accurately forecast the supply and demand issue long term.

What is clear is that raw material supply lines are opening up again, which is easing the manufacturing bottle neck slightly. It still may be quite some time before the local supplies have stocks affording customers reasonable onsite selections again. It will be a fact of life, that consumers ultimately will pay higher prices

New Roof Site offers news, articles, links and general information about all manner of roofing material, designs and construction ideas. Providing information for those in need of alternate roofing ideas as well as links to suppliers and roofing contractors in all areas of the country. New Roof Sit is there to help when needed. More articles about new roofing ideas and materials can be found at New Roof Site Articles

Is Insulation Really effective Soundproofing for Walls?

2008-02-26T02:34:00.000-08:00

One of the oldest and most established methods for improving the sound isolation of walls is the use of insulation. It?s fast, reasonably inexpensive and easy to install. You probably have some interior walls in your own home filled with insulation. But how effective is it, anyway? Does it stop the type of sound that is most annoying you?

It might be best to first consider how sound moves from one side of a wall to the other. A typical wall will have a sheet of drywall / stud / drywall. The wall will have air spaces in between the studs. The drywall is very rigidly connected to the studs.

Sound waves will hit that wall, and attempt to vibrate through to the room next door (or floor below, etc). The sound can vibrate into the next room through one of two paths:

Through the rigid drywall-stud-drywall connection path
Through the open drywall?airspace?drywall path

The insulation will only be able to affect the vibration traveling through the airspace between the studs. The rigid drywall?stud?drywall connection is not reduced with insulation, obviously, and will conduct vibration just as effectively whether insulated or uninsulated.

This has been an extensively laboratory tested scenario, fortunately. The detail of such lab tests are conclusive, and one finds that the low frequencies are not stopped by the addition of insulation. Further, the high frequencies are not reduced significantly. Mid frequencies are reduced somewhat, however, allowing the overall rating of an insulated wall to be 2-3 STC (measurement of sound isolation) points higher than an un-insulated wall. This seems like a good thing. At least the insulation reduces the middle frequencies.

The problem, however, is that most sound isolation problems are in the low frequencies that insulation does not affect. This means that for many of us, insulation alone won?t stop the sounds that bother us the most.

Does this mean insulation is useless for soundproofing? Not at all. It simply points to the fact that insulation shouldn?t be relied on as the sole solution for soundproofing. If you are building a home or an addition or remodeling, you just can?t rely on insulation alone to soundproof.

So where does insulation play a role in sound isolation? Insulation is a great synergist with any of the following other sound isolation techniques:

De-couple the walls with staggered stud or double stud construction (very effective)

Increase the mass of the wall (moderately effective) by adding drywall.

Damp the wall with a field applied damping compound (very effective)

By deploying a combined technique approach, you will have much greater success in your soundproofing efforts.

The Basic Principals of Soundproofing

2008-02-26T02:33:00.000-08:00

Today?s homes are louder than ever and everyone would like things quieter. The question is what to do? Obviously no one wants to spend big bucks on soundproofing, only to spend time and money in vain and still hear plenty of noise.

Sound isolation is science, not magic, and as such it is possible to outline a foundation of basic principles that define soundproofing in any given situation. There are just a few basic principles that govern the sound isolation of any wall, floor or ceiling.

Principle #1: Mass Mass impedes the transmission of sound in a simple way - it's harder for the sound to shake a very heavy thing than a very light thing, no different than saying it's harder to push a shopping cart full of lead bricks than an empty cart. However, to make large changes in performance you have to make very large changes in mass.

Principle #2: Decoupling Think of a typical wall. You have a stud with drywall on each side. If you hammer the drywall in room #1, that vibration will conduct through the drywall, into the stud, and directly into the drywall of room #2, where it becomes sound again. This is a very rigid, coupled wall, excellent for sound conduction.

De-coupling is very simply disconnecting this rigid connection by inserting a space or something resilient like neoprene rubber between one layer of drywall and the stud. Products are commercially available to do this such as resilient sound clips and resilient channel.

If you are dealing with new construction you should really consider staggered stud or double stud construction for rooms that need isolating. It is generally less expensive and higher performing that the commercial products mentioned above.

These techniques all function by inhibiting the movement of sound from one side of the wall to the other through mechanical paths (like studs or joists). Instead, the vibration has to pass through the air cavity between the studs, where some of it will be lost, and through the insulation/absorbing material, where (at higher frequencies) much of it will be lost.

Principle #3: Absorption This is accomplished with simple insulation such as cellulose, fiberglass and mineral fiber (wool). Exotic ($$) insulations are also available. Foams are not a good product to use for absorbing sound. Foam is excellent for thermal purposes, but not acoustic.

Installing insulation in a wall or ceiling cavity increases the sound loss due by eliminating/removing/destroying some sound. An important note is that insulation loses its effectiveness at very low frequencies. Put some fiberglass in front of a speaker at home and you?ll hear the sound drop. Put that same insulation in front of a subwoofer and you might not hear any difference at all.

Insulation is important, but not very effective if it is the only technique used.

Principle #4: Damping This doesn?t mean moistening your wall. To damp something is to reduce its ability to conduct a vibration. A steel pipe conducts sound well; it is not well damped. Drywall, subflooring and most building materials are not well damped. There are damping materials known as visco-elastics that can be very easily and economically applied between sheets of standard drywall and subflooring and are highly effective.

Principal #5: Sealing Make sure to caulk around all openings such as outlets and windows. Seal doors with weatherstrip. Install duct liner in your ducts. These all help to keep sound from entering or exiting.

To learn more about soundproofing visit http://www.greengluecompany.com

A Certified Roofing Contractor-Your best Choice

2008-02-14T04:08:00.000-08:00

This informational article gives insight to the various choices in roofing and their special needs. A certified roofing contractor knows how to meet those requirements; this article offers valuable information to help select the best contractor for your project.

The life expectancy of your roof depends on several factors; type of roofing, quality of material, and exposure to harsh weather elements among the top. With regular maintenance and normal weathering factors, a roof can last anywhere from 10 - 100 years.

Common roofing material such as built up roofing usually lasts 12 - 20 years, metal roofing 15 - 40 years, wood shake or shingles 10 - 40 years, asphalt shingles 15 - 20 years, and specialty material like slate up to 100 years under good conditions.

Leaks start as small cracks in roofing material that may not be visible; water may collect in an adjacent area. To detect such damage, a close inspection of the roof may be necessary.

A certified roofing contractor can be called to avoid further damage to the roof, or personal injury to the homeowner caused by trying to inspect it his or her self. A roof inspection should be performed annually; constant weathering by sun, heat, rain, snow, hail, wind, and cold can cause roofing material to break down. A certified roofing contractor will know what to look for.

A roof and soffit system should be properly vented to prevent over-heating and moisture retention, two factors that can cause a roof to break down prematurely.

Selecting a Qualified Roofing Contractor

A certified, experienced contractor offers various services. From completely tearing off an old roof and replacing it with a new one, to inspecting and "certifying" an existing roof. The latter is a process in which the roof is inspected and "guaranteed" to function properly for a certain period of time; usually 2 years. The contractor takes responsibility for any necessary roofing repair during that period.

A certified contractor is knowledgeable of roof system types, materials, and installation procedures best suited to each project, and will ensure there is adequate venting.

Ask potential roofing contractors questions such as whether or not they are licensed and bonded. What liability insurance coverage they carry, and whether it is up to date. Ask which roofing product manufacturers they are licensed and approved by, for installation of products and warranty purposes. Also ask if they are a member of any regional or national trade organizations.

Several resources are available to find a certified roofing contractor; referrals, local government licensing agencies, and web sites that offer contractors for hire, or a list of contractors who are licensed and bonded.

In Canada, visit www.handycanadian.com for a listing of certified roofing contractors in your area.

Max Sheppard is Co-Owner of Handy Canadian.com at http://www.handycanadian.com and Handy American.com at http://www.handyamerican.com. Handy Canadian.com and Handy American.com is your one-stop renovation information web site.

Roofing Q&A: New Roof And Re-Roofing Answers

2008-02-13T03:57:00.000-08:00

* How do I know if I need a new roof?

The roof should always be checked. You should keep tabs of its state. The following are signs that you may need a new roof.

? Your roof is between twenty and twenty five years old. ? The shingles are excessively cracking, curling, or they are blistering. ? There are many shingles that are missing and/are torn or damaged. ? The roof is leaking in many places.

* How much does a new roof cost?

There is no definitive answer as to how much a new roof will cost. There are a variety of considerations needed before an estimate can be given. From that information, a price quotation or an estimate could be done.

Some of the considerations are:

? Size of roof ? Materials to be used ? Location of house (this is needed to determine which materials would be best for that area's weather) ? Is it for a new house or a re roofing ? State costs and taxes ? Type of home

After that, you can have several contractors bid on the project to get the best price.

* When re-roofing, should I peel off old layers or simply add a new layer of shingles?

It is recommended that you add a new layer of shingles to your roof. Scrapping the old layers will just consume more time and energy, and at the same time by peeling off, the thickness of the shingles are decreasing, leading to possible leakages in the future. By adding new layers of shingles onto your roof, it protects the inner part of the roof and provides you relief against further leakages. Obviously, it would be a lot cheaper.

* What kinds of questions should I ask a roofing contractor?

Getting a roof contractor to do your roof needs a little certainty and guarantee. You can ask the following questions to the contractor to erase doubts regarding his/her services:

* Ask your roofing contractor questions with regards to their standing in their field of expertise. It will give you a hint whether they are really offering quality service to their clients.

* Ask questions with regards to their operation. This includes whether they have necessary permits and licenses to operate such business, and if they are carrying insurance in case there are unforeseen incidents that may happen during the construction.

* And lastly, ask questions with regards to the actual roofing constructions and the post-construction services and warranty. Inquire if they can explain to you in layman's terms how they will construct your roofing, what materials are going to be used, and what services and warranties they offer in case leakages or damages happened to your roof within a time period after construction.

* What kinds of questions should I ask references of a roofing contractor?

Sometimes, you need referrals from people who know the roofing contractor's work you are considering, especially when you are unfamiliar with that type of business. As the roofing contractor for references, especially from customers who have had work done by him. Questions like the following can be asked of your references of a roofing contractor:

* Initially, ask questions with regards to their relationship with the contractor. Maybe the contractor is a friend or a relative of your reference. That will give you an idea how well that reference knows the contractor.

* You can inquire if they have acquired the services of the roofing contractor. Ask them if they have personally witnessed the construction of their roof, and at the same time letting your reference talk about the quality of service.

* Lastly, ask queries on the reliability of their service, if it withstands the different outside elements surrounding the roof. In this way, you will have no doubt of the integrity of the contractor because the reference himself will tell all.

Rae Fakner is a regular contributor to roofing- and construction-related websites such as Roofing Tips. Website: http://www.Roofing-Tips.com

Tips to Successfully Baby Proofing a Home

2008-02-13T03:56:00.000-08:00

Safety first. That is the key rule when having a baby. Once they start crawling and walking, there are so many hazardous places that the little child can get into. Here are some helpful tips to focus on when baby proofing a house.

Babies are very curious and love to get into any place that they can. It is important to make sure cupboards are locked and unable for the child to get into. Not only are chemical containers with toxic materials a very important thing to be careful of, but there are many other everyday items that can provide serious injury to the child through choking or and suffocation. Such items could include small pieces of plastic, cloth, writing utensils, bags, and practically anything and everything.

Once the child becomes really active and starts climbing things, you will have to make sure higher places are not full of dangerous items too. Such places could be draws or racks with shop objects like in the kitchen, bookshelves and desks with heavy objects, and an assortment of places like this.

Electricity is another important thing to keep an eye on. You want to make sure the child can't get to electric chords and sockets. It is also important to be aware of what buttons on certain devices a child may be able to reach. Some could be harmless like a TV, but a few devices might pose a serious risk to a child once turned on or put on certain settings.

Keep an eye on items that have strings and chords. Make sure they are not in reach of the child and make sure no toys have dangerous strings. They could be swallowed or get stuck in the throat, or even more dangerous of a possibility is getting wrapped around the child's neck and strangling them.

Another key item is safety gates to prevent a child from accessing dangerous areas. These areas might be rooms that have too many hazards to the child and can't be properly child proofed otherwise or stairways. Make sure they are installed correctly, firm, and don't have large holes for the child to get stuck in.

Be careful of furniture placement. This is to prevent your child from getting stuck. Children are very curious. Don't put it past your son or daughter to try to squeeze themselves between two pieces of furniture, or even stick their head into the gap to look for something. It doesn't always have to be between two pieces of furniture. It can be between furniture and the wall, furniture and a radiator, furniture and any other large object.

Above all, it is important to keep an eye on the child. Even the best child proofed room can still hold many hazards that are just temporary. In other words, objects that are left behind by other people that can't be child proofed but still dangerous to the young child. Children should be watched at all times. You can't possibly know or remember every single way they can get hurt in each room. But keeping an eye on them not only assures that you will be there to prevent serious injury, but you will also be able to notice places that were overlooked and need childproofing.

Children are very curious and constantly on the go. They are a great responsibility but a joy to the world. Don't overlook anything when it comes to child proofing a house. When it comes to a child's safety, it is better to be too safe than sorry later on.

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.BabyNameVote.Com/ which is a site for Baby Names.

Jake Rose is an artist and an author from Massachusetts.

Quality Online Roofing Resources

2008-02-12T02:13:00.000-08:00

I recently had the need to come up with relatively useful definitions of some roofing terms and also some guides and opinions regarding roofing methods. I stumbled upon some useful online resources that provide the things that I need and also may also be helpful to other users out there.

Here is a list and some descriptions of some of the sites I have found:

1. Garlandco.com - It is a roofing company that has been in business since 1895. What generally caught my attention was their PowerPoint presentation that provides an overview of the most common types of roofing systems that are available in the commercial market place today. Other information include in the presentation are brief description, history and application of each system and lastly, the advantages and disadvantages of each roofing system.

2. Roofing.com - It is a forum all about roofing. Its main feature is a forum area where there are active members. All posts are related to roofing and most members are highly knowledgeable when it comes to roofing both in theory and in practice.

It also has a Knowledge base area wherein forum members can give inputs like answers to frequently asked questions and some roofing guides. Within this area, you can find the definitions to most roofing terms.

The site also has a section wherein you can view the number of roofing jobs available per state. It also has a directory of roofing companies categorized by state. All in all, the site is quite user-friendly and highly informative. Most of my friends also think that it is one good online resource site if the subject is roofing.

3. Roofersreview.com - Is a highly informative site dedicated to roofing. Here you can find local roofers through browsing photos of their works. Also, this site has been suggested to me by members of Roofing.com. They say the pictures they upload to this site help them get quick answers from other users of the forum.

I would include the other sites that I find useful in another article which I may finish by next week. Until then, I hope you get the maximum benefit that you can from the following sites.

Jasper Bautista is a Webmarketing Specialist of Agents of Value who is currently handling Roofing.com

Waterproofing Foundation: What are your choices

2008-02-12T02:12:00.000-08:00

If you are going to build a new home you need to waterproof the foundation of it so you won't have a wet basement in just a few years.

There are different waterproofing products and systems on the market so it really can be confusing. Hence what are your options?

Here is the short overview of the most common foundation waterproofing systems to help you to decide:

1. Liquid rubber foundation waterproofing membranes

Are elastomeric polymerized coatings made from liquid rubber - the same quality material your car tires are made from.

Advantages: They are easy to apply, quick to dry, cold applied. You can do it by yourself, by using sprayer, roller or trowel. The liquid cures into an elastic rubber coating, able to fill up current small holes and bridge possible future cracks in foundation wall as the building settles down. Rubber is flexible. They also usually come with a long warranty, and many are environmentally friendly with low solvent content, or solvent free. Very economical.

Disadvantages: Possibility of inconsistency in coverage, but the newest products will help you to determine the "right" thickness by the intensity of color, i.e. if you apply the product and you see any lighter patches, you just add more liquid. Additional surface preparation and curing may be required. If there are bigger cracks or holes in the structure you have to fill in with cement or other trowel-grade material before applying the overall coating. Also some of the liquid membranes require longer curing times for the concrete before they can be applied to insure proper bonding.

2. Hot applied Liquid Rubber Foundation waterproofing products:

It's a rubberized asphalt compound that forms a strong, flexible monolithic waterproofing membrane. Can be also applied on roofs.

Advantages: Adheres to virtually any structural surface. Ideal for rough uneven surfaces. Monolithic, free of seams, watertight, eliminates water migration and buildup of moisture. Offers strong protection because of the way it has to be applied.

Disadvantages: The surface has to be primed by primer first. The cost is higher because the product has to be applied in layers - basically you apply first coat of hot liquid rubber, then you have to quickly firmly press on the fabric reinforced sheet into that hot layer, then apply a second coat of hot liquid rubber waterproofing. Also, depending on the local building code you may have to apply 2 or 3 of these sheet layers. Because of this, the elasticity is low. And because it is Hot you have to be very careful - the best is to have it applied by a certified specialist.

3. Sheet membranes

The most common are self-adhering rubberized asphalt membranes composed of rubberized asphalt laminated to a waterproof polyethylene film.

Advantages: The biggest one is consistent thickness because they are "pre-made" to a required standard. Mechanically strong, resistant to hydrostatic pressure. Cover even the bigger holes or damaged areas. They can be applied to concrete, metal, wood or masonry surfaces.

Disadvantages: Harder to apply because of their very high "stickiness", also the cost for in-place is higher. Application requires at least 2 people to put in on properly. Requires lots of additional work = additional cost. If there are irregularities on the surface you want to put a sheet on they have to be smoothed first with some coat to make the surface even. You also would need to learn of joint treatment, lap joints, corners, penetration, priming, patching etc. And once the piece is down you won't get it back up in reusable condition.

4. Cementitious Waterproofing

Is a cement based flexible waterproofing membrane. It can consist of Portland cement, sand acrylic mixture, plasticizer and other active waterproofing chemicals to increase it's durability and effectiveness.

Advantages: Very easy to use, just mix the powder with water according to manufacturers recommendation and apply with brush or trowel. Very accessible - available from suppliers of masonry products, or specialized dealers. Paintable. Also comes in a variety of colors. In most cases one coat is sufficient, although some areas may be needing a use of the reinforcing mesh. Low cost. Corrosion and weather resistant. Can be applied as a positive or negative side waterproofing.

Disadvantages: No flexibility - cement does not stretch, so as the structure settles down there are the possibilities of the future cracks. Before applying the surface has to be free from protrusions, gaping cracks, oils, paints, water repellents and any other foreign material that could act as a bond breaker. Holes must be filled with approved block filler.

5. Bentonite Waterproofing

is a bentonite clay below-grade foundation waterproofing product which consists of sodium bentonite clay sandwiched between 2 layers of woven and no-woven puncture resistant polypropylene fabric. Comes as a clay panels and sheets.

Advantages: Can absorb tremendous amount of water. And as it takes the water in the clay swells and pushes itself into cracks and voids where it stays permanently as a barrier against the water. It is flexible and resistant to most chemicals. Non-toxic, non-polluting. No fumes. Can be applied in cold weather.

Disadvantages: Because of the way the clay works the seal does not form until the foundation is backfilled and the water reaches the bentonite material, which means you cannot confirm the integrity of the seal.

Summary: As you see a lot depends on your own situation, needs, requirements and what you feel comfortable with. The best way is to talk to the experts, check the manufacturers requirements especially for the concrete curing time, temperature limitations and additional labor requirements. Yes, waterproofing of the foundation can seem to be expensive at the first glance, but remember that it is a Long-term solution which when applied properly will save you lots of time, headache and money in the future, so please, don't skimp on it.

Dany Daylight is the site Administrator of Waterproofing-foundation-guaranteed.com
Get more info about Foundation waterproofing, basement waterproofing and construction. Tips, advice, articles, and waterproofing resources.

Installing Rolled Roofing the Easy Way

2008-02-09T02:17:00.001-08:00

Installing rolled roofing no longer has to be a life-threatening experience. CCW EZRoof, a product manufactured by Carlisle, makes torching and hot-asphalt mopping a thing of the past. This self-adhering, peel-and-stick product is made for waterproofing low-slope roofs (from 1" to 6" per foot) and installs easily, quickly, and painlessly.

EZRoof makes installing rolled roofing simple, too. First, unroll it and then cut it into workable sections, rolling it back up as you finish. Prepare the deck of the roof by making sure dust, debris, and any protrusions have been removed. If removing an existing roof, take off and discard old shingles, roofing felt, nails, and any decking that has been broken or damaged.

Part of installing rolled roofing includes applying an asphaltic primer to the deck. For each 200 to 300 square feet, you'll need to use one gallon of primer and allow it to cure for half an hour before installing rolled roofing.

When you begin installing rolled roofing, nail the metal drip edge to the deck at the rake and eave, and then place the EZRoof with the adhesive zip strip facing the top of the roof. Beginning at the lowest part of the roof, peel back 12" to 24" of the backing. Align with the lower edge of the deck and press firmly into place.

Tear away the release film as you work when installing rolled roofing, pressing with a metal hand roller, if possible, to keep the EZRoof smooth. Panel ends should then be overlapped by six inches with a generous bead of mastic applied to the area for good adhesion. Roll the seams as you go with the hand roller or by applying smooth pressure with your foot. For subsequent rows, be sure and overlap the EZRoof while installing rolled roofing to ensure proper and adequate sealing against moisture.

Once you've used this product when installing rolled roofing, you're sure to never use anything else! EZRoof makes installing rolled roofing easier than ever. So what're you waiting for? Get EZRoof - and take the headache out of installing rolled roofing.

Carlo Morelli writes for OnlineTips.Org, where you can read tips on attic radiant barriers, metal roofing and other home/garden topics.

Baby Proofing Your Home

2008-02-08T00:33:00.001-08:00

A baby is a both a joy and a responsibility. Taking precautions help to ensure that your new addition is safe can ease some parenting burdens.

Before bringing your baby home, slowly investigate each room. Get down on the floor. Lay down if possible. See your home from a baby's point of view. Look for hazards and correct them. Some potential dangers to watch for include:

Anything dangling. Electric cords, tablecloths, curtains and cords from window blinds should be secured well out of baby's reach. Your infant could strangle, be electrocuted or pull something heavy or hot on top of themselves.

Move cleaning supplies, medications and any other poisons up and out of reach. One of the ways in which a child learns is through taste and you certainly don't want them sampling anything toxic! Consider too, moving all houseplants out of the way as these can prove poisonous as well.

Check the crib. Bars should be no more than 2 3/8 inches apart. Make sure the mattress fits tightly and resist placing large stuffed toys inside.

Clear tables, floors and cabinet tops of anything small that a baby could swallow. Make sure that any wobbly furniture is repaired or removed.

Once baby is home, there are a few more precautions to take. Do not smoke, use matches or drink hot beverages while holding your baby. Any of these can easily burn your child or become a fire hazard.

Avoid foods, especially with children less than one year of age, that can become lodged in their throat. Popcorn, grapes, raisins, nuts, hard candy and small pieces of hot dog should be avoided. Never let a child suck on any type of food while lying on their back!

These are basic, common sense precautions every parent should take to keep baby healthy and happy.

Nikola lives and writes in Oklahoma. She enjoys scrapbooking, reading and volunteering. This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.BabyNameVote.Com/ which is a site for Baby Names.

Building Waterproofing - Keep Your Structure And Investment Safe From Water Damage

2008-02-06T23:23:00.000-08:00

The concept of waterproofing or protecting buildings against the damaging action of water derives from the need to avoid water and humidity related elements that act negatively upon constructions. This negative effect can present itself in several ways, creating health problems, structure deterioration, facility damage and others. Not to mention, that repairing a building damaged by water can be very expensive!

Permeability most frequent causes are: porous or flawed material, badly sealed splices, crack existence, building defects and inadequate surface pendant.

However, we can find different kinds of humidity: the one that gets in from the outside (because of rain, different kind of water infiltrations, ground humidity or underground water), building's own humidity (permanent or because of the construction) and the one produced gradually by the building (because of its service as well as due to condensation and water leaks).

Basic conditions for waterproofing involve the surface's fitness for treatment and its cleanness. Building waterproofing can be done in a surface with/without the presence of water and with/without previous treatment.

Building Waterproofing Systems

Based on water's origin and effects on buildings and concrete, waterproofing systems have been classified:

- Surface waterproofing: done with coating plates, bituminous emulsions, vinyl pastes, resins and sealants.

- Integral waterproofing: integrated to the mass of concrete, affecting its permeability.

- Hydrophanous waterproofing: integrated to the mixing water or used as curing systems, allow the improvement of concrete's characteristics such as workability, compression resistance, decrease of reinforcement steel corrosion, decrease of fissures and cracks, and extended durability.

Kinds of Waterproofing

- Rigid waterproofing is meant to seal filtrations, make waterproof concrete structures or waterproof coatings. Treatments for rigid waterproofing generally are: concrete and cement integral additives, and cement, epoxic, plastic, or metallic coatings.

- Flexible Waterproofing is intended for structures affected by temperature changes and water settlements. This kind of waterproofing is a protection capable of absorbing movements without suffering damages that could allow water access. Flexible treatments are membranes, hot asphalts, cold asphalts (based in water or solvent), polymer emulsions, vinyl emulsions, and acrylic emulsions.

To fit your particular needs, you will probably need to use one or a combination of the above kinds and systems of building waterproofing. The best way to go is to ask an expert in your area to help you find the best solution for your building.

Something is for sure, if you take good care of waterproofing your building you will keep your structure and investment safe from water!

The information for this article was kindly provided by Sika Mexicana, company part of Sika Group, world renowned manufacturer of specialty chemicals for construction and industry. For more information visit http://www.sika.com.mx

Basement Waterproofing - Get Ready For Rain

2008-02-06T00:22:00.001-08:00

The noises - a trickle, a drip-drop, or heavy rush or splash. Ahh, the sun is gone, rainy days are here! Roofs, gutters, and downspouts function in harmony to keep us safe and dry during a downpour. Rainwater rolls down our roofs; much like it does down the mountains. It is then collected in gutters before they are channelled into downspouts like waterfalls. All of these show what roofing and waterproofing is all about.

1. More Protection

Waterproofing is more than just channelling the water away from our roofs. It extensively prevents water from entering the house through a substance application specifically designed for waterproofing.

2. The Concept

Basically, to ensure basement waterproofing, one has to take two steps. The first step is to mount a very reliable drainage system. This is because if your drainage system becomes clogged with leaves or simply can not handle the amount of water capacity, water will accumulate instead of being neatly cyphoned away.

Of course, even with the best gutter and roof, water still penetrates the ground naturally when it rains, because not all rain will fall on your house, some will fall around it, perhaps on your front or back yard, or your neighbors yard.

Either way, if too much water is retained in the ground, the possibility of water entering your basement exists, and the only solution is to have your basement waterproofed.

3. Never Again - Find The Source!

Before you do basement waterproofing, it is a must that you find the cause of leakage first

- Is there a crack in the wall? - Was the house built with weak structures? - Are waters outside flooding and causing too much pressure?

In order to detect any of these problems, inspect your house thoroughly. Usually, water will penetrate on areas where there are cracks, usually on the floor or walls of the basement area. Do all of these things before you apply basement waterproofing.

The unfortunate part is that in order to actually apply a coat of waterproofing, you have to dig at least six feet right next to the wall. The waterproofing mixture must be applied directly to the outside of the basement wall - it can't just be poured on the ground next to your basement! This is an extremely physical task and so in all honesty you should hire a handyman or better still, contact a service to do this for you. The service will come with the added benefit of providing you with a warranty for services offered that guarantees you won't experience the problem again for a set amount of time.

For more great basement waterproofing related articles and resources check out http://www.waterproofing-advisor.com

Extend the Life of Your Roofing--Gutter Care in 3 Easy Steps

2008-02-05T01:40:00.000-08:00

Replacing your roof is expensive. Extend the life of your roofing with gutter care. The gutters and downspouts of your roof are the primary protection against water damage to your roof and your home. Allowing leaves and debris to accumulate in the gutters not only renders them less effective but can damage your gutters and ultimately your roofing.

Gutter maintenance can be a dirty job, but somebody's got to do it--really. Regular gutter maintenance is vital for keeping your gutters clean and working properly. Keep your house and roofing safe and dry through regular roofing and gutter care with these three easy steps.

Clean Out

Gutters need to be cleaned every year to remove leaves and other debris from the system. Use a sturdy ladder on steady footing to help you in your roofing and gutter care. Many ladders feature spans designed specifically to place you at the perfect distance from your gutters without resting or leaning against them, which could damage your gutters.

If you have gutter covers or screens and leaves have made their way underneath them, remove the covers before you begin to clean out your gutters to ensure that they're thoroughly clean. Carefully remove leaves, sticks and all other debris from your gutters and roof. This wet mulch may have already begun to decompose in your gutters. You can bag the debris as yard waste or trash or add it to your compost pile. Stubborn debris may require a tool, like a barbeque brush, to remove.

Rinse Out

Once the gutters are debris-free, use a garden hose to rinse them. This method is also useful in finding leaks or detecting clogged downspouts. A high pressure stream of water may be able to remove clogs, but it may also take shaking the downspout or even using a broomstick or dowel to remove it.

Once your gutters a fully clean, protect them with gutter screens. Screens keep debris from building up in gutters and drains, but leaves can still accumulate on top of the screens. Even with gutter screens, regular roofing and gutter care is still necessary. The leaves that accumulate on your roof can create weak spots and introduce rotting and leaking to your roof, both of which can require expensive repairs.

Check Out

Once your gutters are clean and protected, inspect downspouts, pipes, and gutters for rust, warping, damage and other problems. Check all connections along the pipes as well as the connections to the house to ensure that they are sturdy. Replace damaged connections or pipe sections to keep your gutters working optimally. You can patch holes in your gutters with roofing cement. A metal patch is necessary for larger holes, but these fixes can save you the expense of replacing an entire section of gutter--or your roof.

As part of your annual roofing and gutter check up, you should inspect the overall condition of the roof as well. You can do this by using a ladder to climb on the roof or using an attic ladder to get up close and personal from the inside of the roof.

Inspecting your roof from the inside out is probably a better alternative to keep you from falling through any extremely weak spots on your roof. Always exercise caution on roofs and in attics.

Look for discoloration, dampness, and other warning signs of water damage. If you do detect signs of water damage, immediately check the wood, insulation or other surrounding materials for signs of mold. Mold can be removed with chemicals, but extensive mold problems should always be handled by a professional to make sure that all the mold is contained.

Termites and other pests might also be a problem. Check for potential rodent and bird nests while you're inspecting your roof.

With these useful tips, you'll be able to extend the life of your roofing through gutter care and maintenance. Remember to always exercise caution when working on a ladder and use other safety measures to keep yourself out of harm's way as you protect your house from water damage.

Jordan McCollum is a content writer for 10x Marketing, an Internet marketing firm. To learn more about the best tools for roofing/gutter care, visit LittleGiantSales.com today

Learn How to Install Metal Roofing

2008-02-04T01:08:00.001-08:00

Learning how to install metal roofing may be your first step toward safeguarding your home from the elements in the most efficient and economical way. Although the initial monetary outlay may seem high, if you remain in the home for a period of years, the cost justifies itself. Experts agree that a home with a metal roofing system withstands greater wear and tear than other types of roofing.

Several metal shingle suppliers online offer advice and instructions on how to install metal roofing. One of these, Permanent Roofing Systems (www.PermanentRoofing.com) offers a downloadable PDF file to those interesting in learning how to install metal roofing purchased from their company.

The patent-pending, do-it-yourself metal roofing offered by Permanent Roofing features a four-way interlocking system of aluminum shingles. The user-friendly design of the Permanent Roofing system gives people who are trying to learn how to install metal roofing a leg up with its innovative system.

Because so many types of metal roofing exist, before you decide on learning how to install metal roofing, you might want to check some of these out. Some of the most popular metal roofing systems being used today include Gerard, Decrabond, Met-Tile, Prestige, and Zappone. Prices for metal roofing with these systems vary anywhere from $1.25 to $4.50 per square foot in material ranging from aluminum to copper.

If you feel better about learning how to install metal roofing from reading a book, check out Roofing the Right Way by Steven Bolt. You can find Bolt's book, which includes a fairly comprehensive section on metal roofing, at Amazon.com for around $20, not including shipping.

Learning how to install metal roofing doesn't have to be a daunting task when done methodically. Reading Permanent Roofing Systems' instructions, educating yourself on the various types of metal roofing systems, and acquiring Steven Bolt's book should all propel you forward in your quest of how to install metal roofing.

So don't put off your quest on how to install metal roofing any longer! There's no time like the present to get started on the roof you've dreamed about forever. And learning how to install metal roofing may lead to learning something else. Who knows? You could start a habit you'll never want to break!

Carlo Morelli writes for OnlineTips.Org, where you can read tips on attic radiant barriers, metal roofing and other home/garden topics

Make Soundproofing A Part Of Today?s Home Improvement

2008-02-02T00:29:00.000-08:00

Keeping Noise Out

One of the most effective ways to keep street noise from entering your home is to soundproof your windows. Normal windows are given a sound blocking rating on a numerical scale. The percentage of noise that soundproof windows can block out increases substantially with these special windows.

The best part of the whole process is that it is easy. When you add soundproof windows to your home it will look just the same as the old windows. In fact, the old windows remain in place and the extra glass barrier is added to them. Windows will still open and close in the same manner too, but the panel of glass and the air pocket created by the double pane greatly reduces noise.

Keeping Sound In

Another area where soundproofing may be wanted is in a home theatre. If you want to keep the sound from the stereo system from getting distorted or disturbing others around the house, then there are sound proof panels that can be added to the room. These panels are usually made of foam, resembling an egg crate, but other materials are being made and tested every day. These look more like decorative panelling, yet offer the same noise control.

Soundproofing - Doing It Yourself

If you are good the DYI projects, then soundproof is one you can tackle. It is best to leave the windows to the professional installers, but during any renovation of your house, you should consider sound proofing as important a decoration as the carpet or wallpaper. When you need to repair drywall for example, consider adding the insulation that will reduce noise. After all, no one wants to be enjoying lunch in the kitchen or on the patio and have to listen to a teen?s stereo from the bedroom! Soundproofing may not be something you would have missed until you have it once. Then you will be thinking about it anytime a noise gets in the way of your peace and quiet.

Ken Morris releases many news and information to the internet site http://www.soundproofing-tips.com. Within his publication he is working on topics like floor sound insulation ( http://www.soundproofing-tips.com/floor-sound-insulation.html ) and provides information on acoustical foam.

Leftover 4th Of July Fireworks Are Great For Bomb Proofing The Horses

2008-01-31T22:13:00.001-08:00

The Goal

I was working with Vego and Gemini today. I have been working on desensitizing them to loud noises. The final goal is 1) to be able to shoot a gun while sitting on their backs and 2) to be able to ride them down a street filled with people, flying streamers, loud noises, fireworks, etc. Basically, I am trying to bomb proof my horses.

Look What I Found

4th of July had just passed and I still had fireworks. When I was younger I would have never had any firework left over. That would be a sin. I guess I have slowed down a bit and it is not so important to light every firework off or see how many I could light at a time before I had to run away from the eruption of flames, sparks and explosions I had initiated at ground zero. Because of my new found self control, we had some Black Cats left over. These are the little fireworks that just explode and make a big bang. I had 2 packs left with 100 firecrackers in each. So, what should I do with these firecrackers? I could save them till next year. No way! I recalled reading many forum entries were people had posted topics about the 4th of July and how the fireworks scared their horses. I would reply and tell them that they should desensitize their horse to these noises. So, that is just what I decided to do with my horses.

4th of July All Over Again for Vego and Gemini

I decided to start my lesson with Vego. Gemini was in a holding stall next to the arena where I was working with Vego so she could hear and see everything going on. I had a rope halter and lead rope on Vego. I then started to walk Vego around the outside of the arena. While doing this my 11 year old son was in the center of the arena. He started to light the firecrackers one by one. Bang! The horse was a little bit startled but we just kept walking. Again the firecracker went off and Vego jumped but we just kept walking. My son continued to light firecrackers one by one and I continued to walk around the arena circling in closer to the center. When we eventually circled to the center of the arena we stopped. One by one my son threw firecrackers all around the horse. He did not throw them so close that it could hurt the horse but rather out in front of the horse or behind the horse 6-10 feet away on either side. Near the end of the lesson, in the center of the arena, Vego was not bothered by the firecrackers. He would not even flinch as they exploded.

I repeated the same procedure with Gemini. She did equally as well. As a grand finally we lit off a string of about 20 Black Cats while walking the horses around the arena. They had no problem with noise and continued to walk at a relaxed pace.

Conclusion

This was not the first desensitizing exercise that I had done these horses. The results I had during the firecracker session went very smooth because I have at least one desensitizing exercises every time we have a training session.Todd Mera is a Biochemist that has always had a love for horses. Todd started training horses in his 30s. He has worked with and trained many horse starting from birth and older problem horses. http://www.EverythingEquus.com

Childproofing Your Home

2008-01-31T22:12:00.000-08:00

One of the most important steps you can take to prepare for a baby is childproofing your home. Little hands will get into things you never even thought of, so being prepared is critical to your child?s safety. Here are some areas of your home that need attention to get you started on your childproofing project.

? Electrical Outlets ? You can buy inexpensive covers to keep little fingers out of your outlets, or simply put a piece of furniture in front of them.

? Cords ? Be they electrical cords or cords for blinds or draperies, they are a risk. Cords from blinds or draperies are a choking hazard, and electrical cords can cause a shock, or can cause baby to pull something heavy (such as the lamp at the other end of that cord) down on top of them

? Rickety furniture ? Be certain that you don?t have unstable furniture around. When your baby begins pulling up, he could pull the furniture right down on top of him. Sometimes it?s necessary to attach furniture, such as top heavy bookcases to the wall.

? Plants ? Some houseplants are poisonous, so be certain to keep plants out of baby?s reach.

? Radiators ? If you live in an older home with radiators, you will need to put barriers in front of them or radiator covers over them during winter months.

? Fireplace ? Be certain your fireplace is equipped with a grill or glass doors to protect your child?s little fingers.

? Stairs ? Install baby gates to keep your little one from tumbling down the stairs.

? Cabinet doors and drawers ? Install childproof latches so that your baby is unable to open drawers and doors, particularly those where you store sharp objects or cleaning supplies.

? Railings ? Be certain that any railings in your home, such as those on your stairs, have no more than a five inch gap between any vertical posts. You?d be amazed at how easily a baby?s head can get stuck.

All of these are important steps to readying your home for those days when baby starts crawling around. But, probably the most important thing you can do is to learn to keep your everyday things put away. Items that adults use regularly, like scissors, pins, coins, buttons and letter openers can all be very hazardous to a baby. It?s going to take some getting used to, but with some preparation, you can organize your life so that your everyday activities don?t put your baby at risk.

Sarah Veda is a 41 year old wife and mother of two boys and one girl. She spent many years as a manager in the corporate world, and gave it up to be a stay at home mom. Go to http://www.infantresources.com now and get her incredible baby minicourse ? absolutely free.

Make Soundproofing A Part Of Today's Home Improvement

2008-01-29T22:18:00.000-08:00

There are many areas where soundproofing can be added in order to make for a quieter space. Sometimes it the outside disturbances of traffic or barking dogs that you would like to block out. Other times, you may want to keep noises from one room inside your home from seeping into other areas. Depending on the way you want to manage and control sound, there is a soundproofing technique that will meet your needs. Keeping Noise Out One of the most effective ways to keep street noise from entering your home is to soundproof your windows. Normal windows are given a sound blocking rating on a numerical scale. The percentage of noise that soundproof windows can block out increases substantially with these special windows.

Sound proof windows differ from just plain double pane storm windows. The greatest effect is in the amount of space between the two panels of glass. It is just the right amount to trap unwanted noise, and it has the added benefit of staying clean inside because of the air block seal. Keeping Sound In Another area where soundproofing may be wanted is in a home theatre. If you want to keep the sound from the stereo system from getting distorted or disturbing others around the house, then there are sound proof panels that can be added to the room. These panels are usually made of foam, resembling an egg crate, but other materials are being made and tested every day. These look more like decorative panelling, yet offer the same noise control.

Ceilings and floors can help prevent the escape of noise between rooms. By adding insulation, similar to that which keeps the cold out in the winter and the heat in, you can reduce noise in and out of the room. Soundproofing - Doing It Yourself If you are good the DYI projects, then soundproof is one you can tackle. It is best to leave the windows to the professional installers, but during any renovation of your house, you should consider sound proofing as important a decoration as the carpet or wallpaper. When you need to repair drywall for example, consider adding the insulation that will reduce noise. After all, no one wants to be enjoying lunch in the kitchen or on the patio and have to listen to a teen's stereo from the bedroom! Soundproofing may not be something you would have missed until you have it once. Then you will be thinking about it anytime a noise gets in the way of your peace and quiet.

Ken Morris releases many news and information to the internet site http://www.soundproofing-tips.com . He is working on topics like floor sound insulation and acoustical foam .

Make Soundproofing A Part Of Today?s Home Improvement

2008-01-29T22:16:00.000-08:00

Want a simple behind the scenes way to increase the comfort and value of your home? Soundproofing may sound like something only professional recording artists need, but you will be surprised at how much you will enjoy the added quiet that soundproofing supplies to your home environment.

There are many areas where soundproofing can be added in order to make for a quieter space. Sometimes it the outside disturbances of traffic or barking dogs that you would like to block out. Other times, you may want to keep noises from one room inside your home from seeping into other areas. Depending on the way you want to manage and control sound, there is a soundproofing technique that will meet your needs.

Keeping Noise Out

One of the most effective ways to keep street noise from entering your home is to soundproof your windows. Normal windows are given a sound blocking rating on a numerical scale. The percentage of noise that soundproof windows can block out increases substantially with these special windows.

The best part of the whole process is that it is easy. When you add soundproof windows to your home it will look just the same as the old windows. In fact, the old windows remain in place and the extra glass barrier is added to them. Windows will still open and close in the same manner too, but the panel of glass and the air pocket created by the double pane greatly reduces noise.

Sound proof windows differ from just plain double pane storm windows. The greatest effect is in the amount of space between the two panels of glass. It is just the right amount to trap unwanted noise, and it has the added benefit of staying clean inside because of the air block seal.

Keeping Sound In

Another area where soundproofing may be wanted is in a home theatre. If you want to keep the sound from the stereo system from getting distorted or disturbing others around the house, then there are sound proof panels that can be added to the room. These panels are usually made of foam, resembling an egg crate, but other materials are being made and tested every day. These look more like decorative panelling, yet offer the same noise control.

Ceilings and floors can help prevent the escape of noise between rooms. By adding insulation, similar to that which keeps the cold out in the winter and the heat in, you can reduce noise in and out of the room.

Soundproofing - Doing It Yourself

If you are good the DYI projects, then soundproof is one you can tackle. It is best to leave the windows to the professional installers, but during any renovation of your house, you should consider sound proofing as important a decoration as the carpet or wallpaper. When you need to repair drywall for example, consider adding the insulation that will reduce noise. After all, no one wants to be enjoying lunch in the kitchen or on the patio and have to listen to a teen?s stereo from the bedroom! Soundproofing may not be something you would have missed until you have it once. Then you will be thinking about it anytime a noise gets in the way of your peace and quiet. Ken Morris releases many news and information to the internet site http://www.soundproofing-tips.com . He is working on topics like floor sound insulation and acoustical foam .

Childproofing your home

2008-01-28T02:18:00.001-08:00

One of the most important steps you can take to prepare for a baby is childproofing your home. Little hands will get into things you never even thought of, so being prepared is critical to your child's safety. Here are some areas of your home that need attention to get you started on your childproofing project.

? Electrical Outlets - You can buy inexpensive covers to keep little fingers out of your outlets, or simply put a piece of furniture in front of them. ? Cords - Be they electrical cords or cords for blinds or draperies, they are a risk. Cords from blinds or draperies are a choking hazard, and electrical cords can cause a shock, or can cause baby to pull something heavy (such as the lamp at the other end of that cord) down on top of them ? Rickety furniture - Be certain that you don't have unstable furniture around. When your baby begins pulling up, he could pull the furniture right down on top of him. Sometimes it's necessary to attach furniture, such as top heavy bookcases to the wall. ? Plants - Some houseplants are poisonous, so be certain to keep plants out of baby's reach. ? Radiators - If you live in an older home with radiators, you will need to put barriers in front of them or radiator covers over them during winter months. ? Fireplace - Be certain your fireplace is equipped with a grill or glass doors to protect your child's little fingers. ? Stairs - Install baby gates to keep your little one from tumbling down the stairs. ? Cabinet doors and drawers - Install childproof latches so that your baby is unable to open drawers and doors, particularly those where you store sharp objects or cleaning supplies. ? Railings - Be certain that any railings in your home, such as those on your stairs, have no more than a five inch gap between any vertical posts. You'd be amazed at how easily a baby's head can get stuck.

All of these are important steps to readying your home for those days when baby starts crawling around. But, probably the most important thing you can do is to learn to keep your everyday things put away. Items that adults use regularly, like scissors, pins, coins, buttons and letter openers can all be very hazardous to a baby. It's going to take some getting used to, but with some preparation, you can organize your life so that your everyday activities don't put your baby at risk.

Sarah is a 41 year old wife and mother of two boys and one girl. She spent many years as a manager in the corporate world, and gave it up to be a stay at home mom.

Go to http://www.infantresources.com now and get her incredible baby minicourse - absolutely free

More Tips on Puppy Proofing Your Home and Making It Safe for Your Puppy

2008-01-25T02:41:00.000-08:00

As with toddlers, puppies seem to put everything into their mouths. This is due to that insatiable curiosity and boundless energy they seem to have. Just as with toddlers, you must remove small objects from your puppy's reach as you puppy proof your home. Think of all the things you would not want a toddler getting and move it higher or into storage.

The trick for toddlers is anything that can fit down the cardboard tube of a toilet paper roll is too small and that can be a good rule of thumb for your puppy as well. Things like loose change on the table, too small toys, jewelry, needles, marbles, etc. must be removed. And remember your puppy keeps growing so what is a safe location one day might not be next week.

In your effort to puppy proof your home, think of things you do not want your puppy chewing on and remove those. It is almost proverbial that a puppy will chew on your shoes and socks. You might think it's funny or cute now, but you won't be thinking that when he is a full-grown adult. Not only is chewing your shoes and socks a potential health hazard to your puppy, it can get expensive replacing the chewed up items. Remove the temptation now as you puppy proof your home.

Think of the rooms in your home from your puppy's perspective. The bathroom may not seem so dangerous to you, but that trash may hold some items that will put his health into danger such as dental floss, cleaning rags or even feminine products. Keep the toilet lid shut. You wouldn't have that potential drowning hazard available to a toddler, so don't leave it available to your puppy. Best to keep that door shut.

And keep this danger in mind when surveying your kitchen. The kitchen trash can pose such a hazard as well not to mention the mess your puppy can make. Be sure your trashcan is substantial enough when you are making your home puppy proof that your puppy can't knock it over.

Another hazard to consider when looking to puppy proof your home is an open window. If you have windows you keep open that somehow your puppy can get to, you can see that he might easily fall out that window. If it is a high placed window, if might suffer severe injury or even death. A low window could let him get out into the great outdoors where he might get lost, be run over or run into something much bigger than him.

Yet another thing to consider when you puppy proof your home is things your puppy can ingest that might be harmful to him. Too much candy and certain houseplants can make your puppy very sick. Remove the candy dish from the coffee table and move the houseplants where he can't reach.

When you puppy proof your home, remember to take a look around from your puppy's perspective. Things that are "just there" for you can be dangerous for your puppy both from a health standpoint as well as from a training aspect. Don't set your puppy up for bad habits simply because you didn't take the time to puppy proof your home.

Visit our Puppy Training website at http://ezpuppytraining.com/ for a free course on "Welcoming Your New Puppy Home and Puppy Training". Find more puppy training and care tips at our website ezpuppytraining.com.

Rodent Proofing Your Home

2008-01-23T02:38:00.000-08:00

It's that time of year where rats and mice are apt to enter our homes. Lets talk a bit about their abilities and senses first.

Rats and mice cannot see very good beyond 3 or 4 feet but have a very good sense of motion up to 30 to 50 feet away and for the most part they are color blind. Rodents are most active at night.

These rodents have a very good sense of taste so baits may be rejected by them if they are contaminated with insecticides or odors from other chemicals. Even touching baits after smoking a cigarette will make these rodents to shy away from the baits.

Rats and mice also have a good sense of smell. They mark pathways with urine and use their sense of smell to recognize the odors of the pathway to and from food sources.

Their hearing is much better than humans and make noises in various situations such as mating.

Rodents have a highly developed sense of touch due to their sensitive body hairs. They rely heavily on touch and smell to guide them through movements. The territories of most rats are between 50 and 150 feet from the nest. For mice the average territories within buildings are between 10 and 30 feet.

Rodent Proofing Your Home

The best way to control mice and rats is to make it impossible for them to enter your home. That can be difficult with mice because they can pass through an opening only 3/8 inch thick. In general, all openings greater than 1/4 inch thick should be sealed for mice and all openings greater than 1/2 inch should be sealed for rats.

Check all openings around utility lines that enter your home, around service conduits such as water pipes, electric wires, air-conditioning units, drain pipes and vents should all be sealed. Also check for broken windows and unscreened vents. Vents should be covered with metal grillwork backed by rust-resistant screening. Roofs should be checked to see that shingles are down tight and sheathing is complete. Check roof ventilators, screen vents and in wall vents.

Make sure you check under sinks where pipes enter the wall. This is a great area for mice and rats to enter your home or business.

Copper mesh stuffing, course steel wool, sheet metal, hardware cloth and mortar can be used to seal the spaces around these areas. Just use your imagination.

These are not all areas that mice and rats can enter your home. Its impossible for me to think of everywhere. Like I said, just use your imagination.The author of this article has been in the pest control industry for 13 years and has cleaned many homes of rodents and other pests and insects. For more information on rodents and other pests and insects visit his web site. http://www.infobreaks.com

Slate Roofing Tile for Classic Beauty

2008-01-19T01:52:00.001-08:00

Slate roofing tile is a wonderful look for any home. Slate is natural stone, and it is one of the best roofing tile mediums available. The look of Slate roofing tile is exceptional and some of the most famous houses in America are adorned with Slate roofing tile. Many historical homes have Slate roofing tiles, and this makes it even more alluring to homeowners. For those who are investing in an old home, and want to remodel but keep its original look, slate roofing tiles are a must.

Slate Roofing Tiles: The Look of Elegance

Slate roofing tiles will give any home a look of elegance and a touch of class. Slate roofing tiles come in a variety of colors, sizes, shapes, and details. Choosing to add Slate roofing tiles to your roof should be a matter of serious thought and decision. You will want to browse the various styles and choose the color and texture slate that feels best for you. You should do your homework before deciding upon Slate roofing tile.

If you aren't that experienced with roofing materials, you should find a contractor who has great references and is a licensed contractor. By working with a professional, you can have all of your questions answered ahead of time, and feel more competent that you are making the best tiling decision for your roof. Don't hesitate to look up information for yourself either. Feel free to browse through the Internet or resources at your local library to help you decide which Slate roofing tile options are best for you. If you know someone who has had their roof redone, then ask them for recommendations.

The colors of Slate roofing tiles vary and they can be spectacular. The effect and enhancement that Slate roofing tiles will add to your house will not only make it more beautiful, but it will increase your home value as well. You should look for contractors who will offer you a free estimate before you make a final decision. Make sure that you verify with the contractor that the estimate will be free.

Carlo Morelli is a contributor to www.OnlineTips.Org, where you can read tips on how to install fiberglass insulation and basement dehumidifiers

Basic Methods of Foundation Waterproofing

2008-01-19T01:48:00.000-08:00

It is absolutely necessary to waterproof the foundation of your home. Foundation waterproofing is a critical step in maintaining your home's value and an important measure for preventing very serious damage. Usually done by professionals, foundation waterproofing is generally not recommended as a do-it-yourself project. Your home is likely your biggest investment, and foundation waterproofing is imperative in order to protect that investment. Ideally, foundation waterproofing takes place as the home is being built, but years of settling and water leakage or negligence on the part of the contractors often leaves the home's foundation unprotected.

One short-term waterproofing method is the use of black tar for foundation waterproofing, but this is certainly not recommended. Keep in mind that this is a very short-lasting method that will dry out, crack and let water seep back in within five to eight years. In professional terms, tar is used as a damp-proofing method rather than a waterproofing method. If you do choose to attempt do-it-yourself foundation waterproofing, it is recommended that you use rubberized liquid membrane, which is basically the same material that automobile tires are made of. The liquid membrane is quick drying, inexpensive and generally easy to apply. It can be applied with a roller, sprayer or trowel. Be aware that by using this method, you run the risk of inconsistently applying the membrane. Pay careful attention to ensure it is properly applied.

Again, foundation waterproofing is generally left to the professionals. There are materials and methods available for people who wish to do it themselves, but it's a good idea to do some research first as it is important to get the job done right.

Waterproofing Info provides detailed information on waterproofing systems, as well as waterproofing contractors and consultants. Waterproofing Info is affiliated with Business Plans By Growthink.

Proofing Employee Motivation

2008-01-18T02:26:00.000-08:00

by: Dr. Douglas Waldo c/o ARA Content

(ARA) - As we hear more predictions of an economy showing signs of weakening, managers around the country are asking a couple of key questions: Are we prepared for a recession reminiscent of the early 1990s? Did we learn enough from experiences nearly a decade ago to improve how we perform in 2001? The answer: probably.

While the financial experts monitor and project the extent of an economic slowdown, little doubt remains that the early years of this decade will likely feature layoffs and restructuring across every industry. These staff reductions, or even the anticipation of them, can have a dramatic influence on employee motivation and productivity. Recognizing the warning signs of declining motivation and overall morale can allow managers to respond quickly with intervention strategies aimed at propping up declining productivity.

According to Brian Dailey, a business consultant to the staffing industry in Oklahoma City, there are many warning signs of declining employee motivation that can be expected during recessionary economic times. Some of these include: increased sick days as employees interview for other jobs, increased employee use of Internet time to surf job boards and send out resumes, fewer requests for long vacations, and greater interest among employees regarding company sales or financial strength.

Dailey suggests that while employee motivation may lag for a time, some incidental benefits to employers may include less tardiness and improved work habits as employees position themselves to survive potential staff reductions. Few employees will want to be perceived as marginal performers if the possibility of recession and restructuring looms in the near future.

The real challenge for managers is to develop strategies aimed at protecting employee motivation, despite the fear and concern normally attributed to tough economic times. Dr. Larry Craft, developer of the Craft Personality Questionnaire -- a tool that measures personality and motivation for pre-employment selection systems, understands the impact of uncertainty on employee productivity. According to Dr. Craft, companies looking to reduce expenses by slashing personnel need to take a hard look at the impact on current and future employees before choosing a course of action. "Future employees will tend to look for companies that offer consistency and will likely shy away from jobs in the long run where the potential for turnover is the highest." A company that receives media attention for staff reductions may find that candidates are few and far between when economic times allow for hiring increases.

Dr. Craft agrees however that most companies find it difficult to consider the impact on hiring it will undertake after a recession when the numbers suggest the need for staff reduction in the near term. His best advice is to understand the unique personalities of current employees and open the lines of communication early to avoid many of the problems associated with rumors and false claims.

Thousands of companies have used Dr. Craft's various testing services to do just that in the last two decades, and many find that the resulting productivity requires fewer staff reductions during tougher economic times. Rick Daughtrey, a consultant with CraftSystems(800.228.5866) of Bradenton, Florida, suggests that "it's really a matter of investing the time and resources on the right people and then cultivating them along the way, therefore reducing the need for cutbacks because the right people can typically pay for themselves over the long run."

Managers must learn to assess how they respond to good and bad economic times. Too many companies over-hire in good times and quickly look to downsizing as a temporary fix to slowing demand for their services. It has long been acknowledged that employees are a company's most valuable assets, but many are slow to recognize the full impact of these tough decisions on the motivation of surviving employees. A carefully thought out plan can go a long way in preventing the potential nightmare associated with cutting expenses while attempting to maintain productivity.

Finally, the biggest threat to employee motivation may be a shift in focus to self- preservation rather than team performance. What once was a finely tuned machine may break down as the individual parts become more concerned with whether they can meet their own goals, while failing to recognize that the team's performance may be their greatest hope for individual survival. The lessons learned from the early 1990s are simple: seek expert advice in selecting the right employees for jobs, teach managers to incorporate an understanding of personality and motivation into their communication, develop a game plan that utilizes cross-training to add flexibility to existing staff, and if you must downsize, do it wisely and do it rarely.

For additional information on measuring personality and motivation, go to www.craftsystems.com or www.daileyconsulting.prodigybiz.com.

Courtesy ARA Content, www.ARAcontent.com; e-mail: info@ARAcontent.com

Draught Proofing Your Home

2008-01-17T02:57:00.001-08:00

This article takes a look at a number of ways of preventing or reducing draughts in your home. There are areas we look at are doors, windows and double-glazing, garage doors and finally some of the furnishings you could use to prevent draughts. Draughts are obviously caused by the cold air from outside being drawn into the house and replacing warmer air. The knock on effect of preventing draughts is a reduction in your heating bill and a warmer home. Draughts can be identified in a number of ways such as identifying obvious gaps, feeling for moving air around doors and windows and looking out for moving curtains.

As we mentioned earlier double-glazing can reduce draughts. It can also reduce heat loss, noise pollution and condensation, and all of these benefits reinforce the decision to get double-glazing. Reducing heat loss will obviously reduce heating bills and by making heating your property much more efficient. This in turn means you are making a contribution to reducing pollution and so benefiting the environment. The reduction in noise will give you a greater sense of privacy, particular if you live alongside a busy road, plus condensation can damage soft furnishings and create a damp atmosphere. By buying sealed units which fit perfecting onto their frame you are ensuring a draught free environment.

The most common area for draughts is a door. Not only is there often a gap between the door and its frame, but doors can also have cat flaps, keyholes and letterboxes. Modern doors and their frames have been built with excluding draughts in mind, but older doors are much vulnerable. You should look at draught proofing any holes or gaps around the door or indeed in the door such as cat flaps. An alternative is a draught excluder, which can be stretched along the bottom of the door where the draughts are more likely to come from.

If you have an integral garage then this is an area, which can let the cold and draughts into your property. You should not only draught proof the internal door to the garage but also the garage door itself. The best style of garage doors for keeping draughts down are the roller and sectional garage doors. These fit snugly onto tracks fitted onto the side of the garage, unlike the up and over garage door or the more traditional side hung door.

So, these are just some of the areas to attack when looking reduce draught and retain the warmth in your home.

Garry John has contributed to several home improvement sites such as garage doors and double glazing.

Four Seasons Roofing and Siding

2008-01-14T00:32:00.001-08:00

Four Seasons Roofing and Siding can be found on GOOGLE.COM. Because of recent instability of the major search engines, please look for us on GOOGLE.
Montgomery, Bucks, Monmouth, Mercer, Hunterdon, Somerset County, Pa. and NJ

Thank You.

25 year veteran of the roofing wars.

Four Seasons Roofing and Siding can be found on GOOGLEBob

Four Seasons Roofing and Siding has put a great deal of effort into our Web presence. We value the fact that our potential clients in Montgomery, Bucks, Mercer, Monmouth, Somerset, Hunterdon, and Delaware Counties of NJ and Pa., can find us and learn about how we do business. Recent instability in the search engine industry has us buried on some of the major portal offerings. We dont wish to be lost in the shuffle, so find us at http://google.com. We recommend that you use their very stable and relevant search engine for all your search needs.

Better yet, got to http://fourseasonsroofingandsiding.com

25 year veteran of the industry.

Waterproofing Your Foundation? What Is The Right Choice?

2008-01-14T00:31:00.000-08:00

What is foundation waterproofing?

Waterproofing is Protecting your property foundation be it residential or commercial from cracks due to natural processes such as water damage, thermal movement, shrinking, settlement and other causes.

Think of foundation waterproofing as a long term solution for protection of your property.

Did you know that 44% of new homes have leaking basements without 3 years of completion? And the warranty on dry basement on a new home in USA and Canada is only 1 or 2 years?

Think of what can happen if you dont pay attention to properly seal your house foundation.

It not only causes countless damage to your property it also decreases value of your house, costs money to repair, wastes time, not to mention various health and life hazards.

So what is the Solution to this problem?

Waterproof your property the right way as you build it!

There are many products on the market and it is difficult to choose at times, but not all are the same quality.

The easiest, simplest and smartest way is to apply rubberized liquid membrane. Liquid rubber membranes are elastomeric polymerized coatings made from liquid rubber the same quality tough material your car tires are made from.

Advantages: They are easiest to apply, quick to dry, cold applied. You can do it by yourself, by using sprayer, roller or trowel. The liquid cures into an elastic rubber coating on the wall, able to fill up eventual cracks in foundation wall because of its flexibility. They also come with a long warranty and are very cost effective.

If you want the best ones you should aim at the ones which are environmentally friendly, non-toxic, non-flammable, also VOC compliant, offer superior vapor and water barrier protection, and no priming is required before installation.

Disadvantages: Possibility of inconsistency in coverage, but the newest liquid rubber foundation waterproofing membranes will help you to determine the "right" thickness by intensity of color f.e. the Gray Coat All Seasons Formula from Aquasealusa.com blends in with the concrete foundation, so over-spraying is no longer a problem, making it much easier for the applicator to apply.

There are of course other products on the market like sheet membranes, cementitous waterproofing, hot tar or bentonite, but they either dont offer such a long warranty, are labor intensive or low quality, or you have to use company employees/certified technicians who are the only ones allowed to apply their product which will cost extra money.

Basically it comes what your needs are and how much money your are willing to invest to protect your property properly.
Waterproofing-foundation-guaranteed.com

Dagmar Rakos is the site Administrator for Waterproofing-Foundation-guaranteed.com

Highly effective, easy to apply foundation, basement and specialty waterproofing products for ICF and standard construction. For home builders and waterproofing contractors.

Available at http://www.waterproofing-foundation-guaranteed.com.com.Organic Roses in the Flower Garden Part 1Sandra Dinkins-Wilson

Many people believe growing their flowers and vegetables organically is healthier for them and their environment. It is natural that you may wish to grow your roses this way also. Using the pesticides and insecticides that are usually considered to go along with growing roses and keeping them healthy can cause many people have to health problems . Maybe you just don't want those kind of chemicals in your garden and around your children. This article will give some pointers in using more natural methods of growing your roses.

1. First do your homework and find out what type of roses grow well in your area. Buy disease resistant varieties. If you live in an area that has problems with a certain disease, look for a variety that is resistant to it. If you can, purchase organic roses. As they have already been growing with organic methods, this supposes they are "healthier". and not already loaded with chemicals. Thus they have a stronger immune system. Of course, buy roses with no blemishes on them.

2. Roses like full sun. Make sure they are placed so as to get 6 to 8 hours of sunlight a day.

3. Do not crowd your roses together. Ensure that stress is reduced by providing lots of space for air to circulate around the bush. Take growth of the rose bush into account.

4. Plant your roses in good loamy soil. If your soil is not ideal, then amend it with organic material such as from your compost pile. You do have a compost pile, don't you? Roses like well draining soil but they don't want it draining as fast as you might get with sand, so amend your sandy soil. If you have clay soil, an alternative requiring a bit of work is to build a raised bed for your roses much like vegetable gardeners use. It should be at least a foot deep but more is better. Fill it with will amended soil.

5. Keep your watering consistent. Don't allow your plants to dry out and suffer stress before watering. Roses can need up to 2 inches of water a week. Water every two to three days. This, of course, depends on your area and the type of weather (how much rainfall) you are getting. Also, be careful not to stress the plant by overwatering and depriving the roots of oxgen.

6. Mulch, mulch, mulch! Mulching can reduce the stress on your rose in several ways. It helps to hold in moisture which can be very good in a hot, dry climate. It helps maintain a more even temperature in the root zone. And mulch can smother weeds that could be competition for your lovely roses. As the mulch decomposes, it adds more nutrients to the soil around your plant. Lastly, it can cut down on some of your work. ;-)

7. Roses are, what could be considered, heavy feeders. They respond well to fertilizer and should be fertilized on a consistent schedule. Most organic fertilizers are slow-acting and may produce less spectacular results of a non-organic fertilizer. Some organic fertilizers to consider are composted manure, fish emulsion, alfalfa meal, blood meal, and cottonseed meal. If you wish to have a truly organic rose garden, you should ensure that your fertilizer is also organic. Of all these the only one you can be sure is truly organic would be your composted manure if you know exactly where it comes from and how the animals are raised. Perhaps you should consider your own animals raised organically. Chicken manure is very high in nitrogen and some localities allow a small backyard flock. Make sure it is composted thoroughly as chicken manure is very "hot" and will burn your plants.

8. Prune your roses in the early spring. To keep your roses healthy, get out the dead wood, damaged wood and anything that starts to look diseased (and don't compost these trimmings). Thin out your plant to keep it from being crowded. Don't allow branches to rub against each other. This will allow air and sunlight to get to the whole plant keeping it healthier.

In part 2 later this week, we will discuss some organic methods of combating specific diseases and pests. http://flowergardenlovers.com.

Childproofing Your Home Office

2008-01-11T01:35:00.000-08:00

Patterson

Childproofing Your Office

If you are working from home while the kids are there, your kids will be in your office with you, at least some of the time. This way you can keep an eye on them, besides, they want to be where Mom or Dad is anyway. Childproofing your office makes it a safe place for your child and a safe place for your business.

If you have very young ones, literally crawl around your office to get a perspective of the enticements and dangers to your child. Older children are able to follow any office rules you lay down, but even they can be tempted by some new item. Evaluate your office from their view and make changes before your child or your work is jeopardized.

- Move or cushion furniture with sharp corners and secure
heavy furniture that can be toppled
- Lock drawers
- Put outlet covers on any open outlets
- Hide cords that beg to be pulled or tripped over. Use cord
organizers or run them under special cord mats or behind
furniture
- Cover disk drives and other enticing openings with tape or
cardboard attached with Velcro
- Put away the small stuff like paper clips, rubber bands,
and staples.
- Put away the sharp objects as well, scissors, push pins,
pencils, etc.
- Set up a screensaver with password on your computer
- Keep objects you don't want touched in less accessible
areas: on shelves, on filing cabinets, in closets
- Pack books tightly in the bookshelf if you don't want little
ones pulling them out.
- Install shelves on the walls to place items above reach
- Purchase plastic bins with lids for storing supplies.
Colored bins obscure the contents inside and provide less
temptation.
- Create a filing system that keeps papers filed away.
Desktop trays or vertical wall hanging folders work well
for in and out boxes.

Tracey Dishman Patterson
tranndee@parentshomeoffice.com
The Parent's Home Office
www.parentshomeoffice.com

Peace of Mind Baby-Proofing

2008-01-11T01:33:00.000-08:00

Learn how to protect your family from hidden dangers lurking in your home!
The relatively serene days of your contented baby in the swing or playpen seem to end far too quickly, now that your little one is becoming more mobile. Its time to ensure youre providing a safe environment for active playing, growing and learning.

Youve put up a baby gate to prevent falls, carefully covered your electrical outlets, padded the sharp corners on your coffee table, and buckled your tiny passenger into an approved infant carrier. You try to keep your home as bacteria and germ-free as possible, disinfecting thoroughly and then locking up household cleaners away from inquisitive hands and mouths.

Yet there are still an estimated 2.1 million accidental child poisonings each year, with dishwashing liquid the leading cause. Sadly, the damage caused by these products is often gruesome: burned mouth, scarred esophagus, repeated operations to rebuild the throat, sometimes even death. And no matter how diligent you are about keeping your cleaning products out of harms way, you may still be slowly and unwittingly poisoning your child, day after day. How?

If you use products with harsh and harmful chemicals that contain known carcinogens (cancer-causing agents) the toxic residues left behind on your floors, furniture and in the air find their way into your childs body through her skin, mouth, and nose. And even your personal care products (soap, shampoo, conditioner, styling aids, deodorants, etc.) can contain dangerous chemicals as well.

Your little one is like a sponge: developing cells in a childs body are more susceptible than in adults, especially in his central nervous system. Even small doses of neurotoxins that would be harmless to an adult can alter his nervous system development. And until your child turns 13, his growing body has virtually no ability to fight biological and neurological damage from toxic chemicals. As much as we tend to think of skin as a protective barrier, in fact its highly permeable, as evidenced by the successful use of skin patches to deliver prescription medication.

Your baby or toddler is most often down at floor level, crawling and exploring, and frequently sticking her hands into her mouth. And in fact, only 10% of health problems from chemicals are a result of ingestion, 90% are caused by inhalation and absorption. Are you confused? How can your brand name household cleaning products and personal care products contain harmful toxins if theyre sold at grocery stores nationwide? The truth is that the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) does NOT regulate personal use products. The workplace and the outdoors are considered legal environments, while your home is not. Did you know that indoor air quality is 3 to 70 times more polluted than the outdoor air in the worst polluted U.S. cities, according to an EPA study? And that women who work from the home have a 54% higher death rate from cancer than those who work outside the home, according to a 17-year EPA study?

Labeling laws simply dont protect the consumer. The U.S. Federal Code of Regulations exempts manufacturers from full labeling of products if used for personal, family or household care! Warning! labels mean that as little as 1 teaspoon of product can harm or kill an adult, Danger! means that as little as 5 drops can harm or kill an adult. Go ahead and take a look at the products in your home, you may be shocked and surprised!

Many conditions such as the rising rate of childhood cancer, asthma, and ADD/ADHD are being linked to increased use of chemicals in our homes. So what can you do to protect your loved ones? Educate yourself on whats really in the products you use to bathe, deodorize and beautify yourself and your family. Study the labels on your household cleaning products; anything that says harmful to humans and domestic animals isnt something thats good for you or your child.

Research your alternatives: responsible manufacturers dont use formaldehyde, phenols, NTA, phosphates, ammonia, or chlorine (bleach) in their products, and trustworthy companies do exist. As a responsible adult and savvy consumer, you owe it to yourself and your child to make informed choices about the products you allow into your environment.

As a concerned parent, you want to provide the very best for your child...so start today to make safer, healthier choices!

Carolyn Beale is a devoted mom of 2 who works full-time from home running a successful online networking business featuring safe, non-caustic, environmentally friendly products manufactured by an award-winning wellness company. For product information or to discover how you too can earn an income from home, visit her website!

Clean Up On the Go! Ten Tips to Deal with Messy Meltdowns.Colleen Langenfeld

Deal with travel messes fast and easy, and stay focused on your vacation fun!
- It's vacation time! The car is packed. You're on the road. Johnnie accidentally bumps his arm and his soda falls on top of sister Suzi, trapped in the seat beside him. She screeches and your husband crouches lower behind the wheel while glaring at you to 'make them stop.'

- The plane has just taken off. Your family has been waiting for this vacation all year! Ten minutes into the flight the baby starts crying...diaper change time! There's very little room to change her and you end up as messy as she is. Are you going to smell like a dirty diaper for the rest of the flight?

Sound familiar? Or just something you want to avoid? While you can't stop messes from happening, you can take the sting (or stink!) out of them and keep them from ruining your family's plans.

The key? Be prepared!

1. Of course, you have packed extra clothes for the baby/toddler. What about you? Roll up and pack one light-weight loose fitting neutral-colored shirt that could work in a pinch for anyone in the family over the age of five. It will carry you through until you can get to your luggage.

2. Always, always, always carry two or three plastic bags for soiled items. These can also be used as a pair of disposable gloves or a seat cover, if necessary.

3. In your car, keep a roll of paper towels. In your purse or bag, a supply of wet wipes. Replace immediately when used!

4. Go disposable when traveling. Bibs, diapers, cups and utensils. What you can throw away you don't have to figure out how to clean. And you'll always have a fresh one to start again.

5. As long as everyone in the family can tolerate it, pack a lotion with a pleasing scent and use liberally. It will help cover up the little smells that hang on in enclosed spaces.

6. Carry a water bottle. Besides drinking, a spot of water can clean hands, faces, and stains in a pinch and it will dry naturally.

7. Check your gear. Sippy cup leaking? Toss it before the trip begins. Make sure cup holders are functioning (and used properly). Everyone needs a napkin or paper towel and must know how to use it!

8. Take only non-messy food and drink on trips. There are a lot of 'treats' out there these days. Choose wisely and everyone will stay happier. (Beware of the boxed drinks with straws. When squeezed, the liquid travels right up the straw and flies into the air!)

9. Don't ask more out of family members than they can handle. If jostling a fast food meal in the car inevitably leads to spills and tears, forget the drive-thru and eat inside the restaurant instead.

10. Don't forget to pack your patience. Crying over spilled milk is truly sweating the small stuff. Laugh a little, encourage everyone to pitch in and help, and be ready with an easy distraction to get people back on track again.

Colleen Langenfeld delivers deals, tips and creative resources to working moms who want the most out of their homes, families and careers at http://www.paintedgold.com . Sign up for our FREE online newsletter and get a digital Creativity Toolkit as our gift to you!

Corrugated Roofing Materials used for Roofing any Structure

2008-01-09T01:02:00.001-08:00

The roof is a very essential element of the house, building or any structure. They provide the shelter and the protection from natures elements and factors such as rain, snow, sleet, as well as sunlight. But basically, the roof is like a wall of the house, a panel if you will; only it is placed and located on top of the house or building. Roofs are basically characterized in two ways, the flat and the sliding. Some combine both. Roofs may be made from different materials, all throughout the history of mankind, different materials have been used as roofing materials and one of the more successful is the corrugated roofing.

Corrugated roofing started out as sheetmetal. They form some sort of waves on the roofing for design as well as for purpose. Nowadays corrugated roofing is made from different materials, such as Stainless Steel, Fiberglass, Aluminum, Coated or Painted Steel. Usually they are treated with special finishes to prevent corrosion. Corrugated roofing materials are easy to use and install. They are relatively affordable than other roofing materials and are a long lasting solutions. Corrugated roofing materials are usually used for the sliding type of roof.

Steel corrugated roofing materials can be quite long lasting. They can be painted with different colors and treated with different solutions to make them even more long-lasting. They are also pretty lightweight and easy to handle. Installation can be done with a minimum number of persons. Whats more they are very affordable. Corrugated roofing materials that uses fiberglass are very translucent which can provide natural lighting to the house or building. They are watertight like other corrugated roofing materials and are very lightweight and durable. Corrugated roofing materials are also more rigid than a flat sheet of a similar type and thickness, this results to a substantial reduction in cost and weight.

The disadvantages in using corrugated roofing materials are that they are very lightweight and can be hard to work with if the weather is extreme. Fiberglass corrugated roofing materials cannot withstand high heat, fiberglass also easily chips while metal and aluminum corrugated roofing materials dent easily and is hard to restore. The temperature plays a major facto with corrugated roofing materials and if they are not installed properly they may detach. Because corrugated roofing materials are usually very thin, they can be very noisy when it rains, snows or other extreme weather conditions. The corrugated roofing materials sheets can also be very heated during hot sunny days and the heat can radiate to the rest of the structure making it very uncomfortable. To eradicate this problem, a false ceiling must be placed, the gap in between should be well ventilated so that the hot air will be dispensed through that manner. Utilizing light colored corrugated roofing materials or painting it with light colored paints if possible will also decrease this problem.

When installing corrugated roofing materials, there is some basic building materials needed such as, Filler strips, these are wood shaped to fit the contours of the panels, special nails for corrugated roofing materials, plastic washers, you will also need a drill and drill bits, a saw might also be needed for some cutting. Corrugated roofing materials are sold in panels with different sizes, before purchasing, it is best to determine which size and how many panels will be needed so that cutting will not be necessitated thus avoiding waste and additional costs. With corrugated roofing materials you get high=quality roofing materials that is very affordable, easy to handle and install and can be designed to compliment any house and design.

Online entrepreneur Sara Jenkins, is dedicated to helping others and their needs to succeed in life by offering free payroll tips everyday. To learn more about her free roofing tips, and to sign up for her FREE Roofing articles and FREE bonus how-to books and resources, visit www.RoofingUp.com.