Soundproofing your basement

In today's world, basements are no longer simply places to store things like a glorified garage. With the price of housing ever on the rise, many people are converting their basements into rental spaces where they can make a little extra income each month. There are also a lot of folks who want to create a refuge space for reading or meditation or even a home theater in their basements. In this article I am going to talk about soundproofing your basement from the tenants below or from the noise transmitted by a home theater. The first order of business is to talk about the ceiling. Many times pipes and conduits as well as electrical and cable lines run between the joist cavities in a basement ceiling. A lot of people feel that need to have access to these components, but in order to achieve great soundproofing, there devices need to be sealed up by constructing a sealed drywall ceiling below. If you are concerned about the plumbing and wiring, have a professional come in before your drywall in your new ceiling. Remember that 90% of your plumbing and wiring is behind drywall and if there are problems with them then naturally the drywall will need to be removed. My point here is that if the plumbing and wiring has been inspected and given a clean bill of health, then go ahead and seal up the ceiling below. Generally most basement areas have low ceilings which prevents us from installing a fully floated ceiling, however there is always room for materials like mass loaded vinyl that can be stapled or nailed directly to the bottom of the joists like a membrane. You will caulk all of the seams as well as around the entire perimeter of the MLV using a good quality acoustical caulk, stay away from cheap silicone caulks, they do not work as well. Once the MLV membrane is caulked and sealed properly, it is advised that you also tape the seams with a lead tape or a mass loaded vinyl sealer tape. You will tape directly over the dried caulk. Now it is time for a layer of drywall. I would recommend a layer of 5/8" fire code drywall. This application will stop most of the airborne sound transmission and some of the impact noise from above, but the best way to alleviate the majority of the footfall or impact noise is to float your ceiling using sound clips and metal furring channels. I will talk more bout them in subsequent articles. There is one other method for soundproofing a basement ceiling that I will briefly discuss. Instead of using the mass loaded vinyl, consider installing 2 layers of sheetrock with a layer of Green Glue applied between the 2 layers. Here's how it works. First you make sure you have your batt insulation in place between the joist cavities, this is only necessary if your need the thermal protection of the insulation. Next you would screw in a layer of 5/8" drywall. Always screw in your drywall; never nail it in especially in a ceiling application. Then you will lay out your second layer of 5/8" drywall on saw horses, but on this layer you will apply 3 tubes of a product called Green Glue top the backside of the drywall. Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that is used to deaden or dampen the existing drywall and the newer layer that is being installed. You could apply only 2 tubes of Green Glue per 4' X 8' sheet of drywall, however using 3 tubes per sheet of drywall is much better for soundproofing. Once you have applied the Green Glue to the backside of the second layer of drywall, you will simply screw in the second layer directly over top of the first layer. A little hint here is to screw the second layer of drywall down as tightly as possible without pulling the screw through the drywall, this will insure the best dampening possible of both pieces of drywall. After that second layer of drywall and Green Glue are installed, you will simply tape mud and texture the ceiling as you would a normal ceiling. Well, that's all there is to soundproofing a basement ceiling. For more information about soundproofing a ceiling, walls or floors, read my subsequent articles or simply call a reputable soundproofing company, they will be glad to help you. Until next time, this is Dr. Bob...Out!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O. Soundproofing America, Inc. Senior Technical Director Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079 E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica

Batt Insulations, are they a sound investment in Soundproofing?

"Which batt type insulation will give me the best soundproofing?" I hear this question a lot, or better still, "Do I need to add more soundproofing if I already have insulation in the walls and ceilings?" Keep in mind that any batt type insulation, though it may be a great thermal insulator, is generally not very good as a soundproofing agent. If batt insulations such as fiberglass insulation or Icynene were effective soundproofing products, the big boys like Johns Manville ? and Owens Corning ? would take over the soundproofing industry and leave the real professionals out in the cold. Luckily knowledge is still power and it will be a while before all the soundproofing companies are put out of business.

If you are serious about soundproofing always consider batt insulations as the proverbial "icing on the cake". They simply don't have the horsepower to be stand alone soundproofing agents such as lead, closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl. There are some good sound batt insulations on the market today, one is Roxul AFB? (acoustic fire batt). Roxul? is a rock wool that is made up of mining slag Canada that is hit with high pressure air thus giving it the properties of a very dense fiberglass insulation and while it will provide the end user with an R-13 for the 3 ?" variety and an R-19 for the 5 ?" batts, it's main function in life is to provide superb sound absorption and structural dampening of wall and joist cavities. It is a know fact that damping a structure; especially a wooden structure helps to control the transmission and vibration of sound through said structure.

Bonded Logic?, a company in Arizona also provides a cotton sound batt insulation that is great for filling voids and cavities where sound control is essential. The cotton is an inert material that absorbs sound but does not transmit through its fibers like fiberglass insulation does.

Fiberglass insulation is one of the worst for soundproofing agents out these. It actually transmits sound through its very fibers thus causing the annoying noise to appear amplified. If you are forced to use fiberglass insulation make sure it is isolated from either the sub floor or the ceiling below. Never pack fiberglass into cavities or voids. By isolation the fiberglass insulation from the sub floor above or the ceiling below you will break the sound transmission circuit from the floor above to the ceiling below. The same applies to walls, if the fiberglass insulation is touching one side of your drywall, make certain that it does not come in contact with the other side of the drywall. This makes perfect sense once you know the nature of fiberglass insulation.

To sum this up, never count on any batt type insulation to be your stand-alone soundproofing agent. You will always need the horsepower of lead, mass loaded vinyl, closed cell foam, or of course my favorite, Green Glue?. You can read about these great soundproofing agents in subsequent articles throughout the Internet. For now, this is Dr. Bob, The Green Glue King, signing off and may all of your soundproofing journeys be smooth ones.

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"Which batt type insulation will give me the best soundproofing?" I hear this question a lot, or better still, "Do I need to add more soundproofing if I already have insulation in the walls and ceilings?" Keep in mind that any batt type insulation, though it may be a great thermal insulator, is generally not very good as a soundproofing agent

Corrugated Roofing Materials Used for Roofing Any Structure

The roof is a very essential element of the house, building or any structure. They provide the shelter and the protection from nature’s elements and factors such as rain, snow, sleet, as well as sunlight. But basically, the roof is like a wall of the house, a panel if you will; only it is placed and located on top of the house or building. Roofs are basically characterized in two ways, the flat and the sliding. Some combine both. Roofs may be made from different materials, all throughout the history of mankind, different materials have been used as roofing materials and one of the more successful is the corrugated roofing.

Corrugated roofing started out as sheetmetal. They form some sort of waves on the roofing for design as well as for purpose. Nowadays corrugated roofing is made from different materials, such as Stainless Steel, Fiberglass, Aluminum, Coated or Painted Steel. Usually they are treated with special finishes to prevent corrosion. Corrugated roofing materials are easy to use and install. They are relatively affordable than other roofing materials and are a long lasting solutions. Corrugated roofing materials are usually used for the sliding type of roof.

Steel corrugated roofing materials can be quite long lasting. They can be painted with different colors and treated with different solutions to make them even more long-lasting. They are also pretty lightweight and easy to handle. Installation can be done with a minimum number of persons. What’s more they are very affordable. Corrugated roofing materials that uses fiberglass are very translucent which can provide natural lighting to the house or building. They are watertight like other corrugated roofing materials and are very lightweight and durable. Corrugated roofing materials are also more rigid than a flat sheet of a similar type and thickness, this results to a substantial reduction in cost and weight.

The disadvantages in using corrugated roofing materials are that they are very lightweight and can be hard to work with if the weather is extreme. Fiberglass corrugated roofing materials cannot withstand high heat, fiberglass also easily chips while metal and aluminum corrugated roofing materials dent easily and is hard to restore. The temperature plays a major facto with corrugated roofing materials and if they are not installed properly they may detach. Because corrugated roofing materials are usually very thin, they can be very noisy when it rains, snows or other extreme weather conditions. The corrugated roofing materials sheets can also be very heated during hot sunny days and the heat can radiate to the rest of the structure making it very uncomfortable. To eradicate this problem, a false ceiling must be placed, the gap in between should be well ventilated so that the hot air will be dispensed through that manner. Utilizing light colored corrugated roofing materials or painting it with light colored paints if possible will also decrease this problem.

When installing corrugated roofing materials, there is some basic building materials needed such as, Filler strips, these are wood shaped to fit the contours of the panels, special nails for corrugated roofing materials, plastic washers, you will also need a drill and drill bits, a saw might also be needed for some cutting. Corrugated roofing materials are sold in panels with different sizes, before purchasing, it is best to determine which size and how many panels will be needed so that cutting will not be necessitated thus avoiding waste and additional costs. With corrugated roofing materials you get high=quality roofing materials that is very affordable, easy to handle and install and can be designed to compliment any house and design.

Online entrepreneur Sara Jenkins, is dedicated to helping others and their needs to succeed in life by offering free payroll tips everyday. To learn more about her free roofing tips, and to sign up for her FREE Roofing articles and FREE bonus how-to books and resources, visit http://www.RoofingUp.com