Soundproofing Your Car, Truck or Motor Home

There are a lot of products out there for soundproofing your car but there is precious little ?How to? information out there regarding this subject. I am here to fill that void. When soundproofing any vehicle, the first order of business is to take care of the engine noise coming from under the hood. Most people don?t realize that a lot of the noise they hear in the passenger compartment of their vehicle is actually being transmitted from the engine and the road via the tires and shocks. In essence these sounds and vibrations are transmitted directly into the hood of the car which is a sheet of steel that simply transmits the noise through the hood I and into the windshield and ultimately to the passengers ears.

I know I know, you have some sort of fiberglass material attached to the underside of the hood, isn?t that soundproofing. I?m afraid not, basically that is a heat shield to prevent the heat of the engine from damaging the paint on the surface of the hood. It does work well for that, but it has absolutely no soundproofing abilities at all.

What I suggest is that you remove that fiberglass hood mat and then clean the underside of the hood thoroughly. You will then cut and glue in a piece of 1? America Mat which is a dense vinyl nitrile closed cell foam mat. What you want to do is trace out the underside of the hood using a pencil and butcher paper for example and trace out the cut that you want paying attention to the edges and the contours. How do I cut the foam so precisely you ask? Well I?m glad you asked. The absolute best way to accurately and precisely cut any kind of foam is to use an electric kitchen meat-cutting knife. These electric knives are readily available at Wal Mart or K-Mart and cost about $9- $12. It is well worth the investment if you plan on soundproofing your entire vehicle. Basically you would trace the pattern of the underside of the hood; you can actually cut the America mat to the same pattern as the protective mat that came with the car that way you know it will fit and look properly.

Once you have the America mat cut to your liking and the underside of the hood is cleaned down to the paint, I would recommend cleaning the underside with a terry cloth rag and some alcohol. This will insure good adhesion of the adhesive. You can also rough up the underside with a fine grit sand paper on an electric sander. Cover the engine with a towel or drop cloth to prevent adhesive of sand granules from getting into the motor. Now you will spray a good quality contact cement to the underside of the hood as well as to the smooth side of the America Mat. I like the 3M Super 77 spray contact cement. Keep the 2 pieces apart for as long as the instructions say and once the adhesive has tacked you will adhere the foam to the underside of the hood. You will want to use tape to hold the America mat to the underside of the hood until it dries enough to stick on its own. When the adhesive has dried you cam close the hood and drive off. The America mat can withstand temperatures of 240 Deg F and will literally last for the life of the vehicle.

This system can also be used on trucks and motor homes. We have many customers who have used the America mat to soundproof the ?Doghouse? that covers the engine from the inside of their coach.

Now there are also materials that can be used for the floorboards as well as door panels and the back areas of station wagons or vans or the trunks of cars. We have also had people with classic cars use the America mat to soundproof their vehicles; it can make your Corvette sound a lot quieter with the top up. I hope this has helped you in your quest for a quieter vehicle. There will be more articles on car soundproofing in subsequent articles, until then, this is Dr. Bob?.Out!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

The Mysteries of Soundproofing Uncovered!

It seems like the big guys never want to tell you their so-called ?Secrets of Soundproofing?. That sort of sounds like a self-help book doesn?t it? Here at Soundproofing America we know that the more knowledge our customers have the easier it is to discuss soundproofing issues intelligently. We will give you in depth information on the best soundproofing materials for your situation and will always provide detailed installation instructions for all of our quality soundproofing products.

There are no secrets regarding soundproofing, but the other guys figure that if you don?t know anything about soundproofing, they can sell you anything they want and will not be held accountable if it doesn?t work because of the buyer beware clause in their contracts.

We here at Soundproofing America don?t do things that way. We know that the more knowledge you have the better your chances are for success.

Soundproofing has many aspects that I will discuss briefly in this article. One is the addition of mass to walls and ceilings or even to your floors. By mass I am referring materials such as lead sheeting and mass loaded vinyl. These barrier materials add mass to your walls for example and act as blockers. Generally lead sheeting or MLV do not have any absorption characteristics, they and basically reflective barriers.

The are best used on bare studs and joists, though they can be adhered over top of existing drywall as long as you de-couple the barriers from the drywall. We will discuss this further in subsequent articles.

The next soundproofing agent we will discuss is a product we call America Mat. America Mat is a closed cell vinyl nitrile foam mat that is used to like the insides of joist or stud cavities. Lining these cavities with America mat will seal the cavities and create a dead air space that if very helpful for soundproofing. America mat can be purchased directly from Soundproofing America by calling their toll free number (877) 530-0139 and please feel free to ask for Dr. Bob, I?ll be more than happy to answer any and all of you soundproofing questions.

Now the third in our countdown of great soundproofing agents are sound dampers. Sound Dampers like Green Glue are my favorite soundproofing agents. Sound dampers are generally a liquid product that is applied to that backside of a layer of drywall and then installed over top of the existing drywall in the area you are soundproofing. The Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that actually deadens the drywall so it is unable to resonate. This inability of the drywall to resonate or vibrate with the sound will actually stop the sound from passing through the drywall and will cause the sound to dissipate. It actually turns into a low-grade heat energy.

Of all the materials described so far, the Green Glue is by far the easiest to install and most effective soundproofing agent on the market today. The difference between the Green Glue and other soundproofing agents is that Green Glue is more effective at stopping the transmission of low frequency sound. Frequencies of 125 Hz and below are the most difficult to stop because they are a much longer sound wave. The longer sound waves are much more difficult to combat than the higher frequencies which are shorter sound waves.

If you want to learn more about soundproofing material and their installation, call the professionals at Soundproofing America your #1 soundproofing resource from coast to coast. This is Dr. Bob?..Out!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Soundproofing your basement

In today's world, basements are no longer simply places to store things like a glorified garage. With the price of housing ever on the rise, many people are converting their basements into rental spaces where they can make a little extra income each month. There are also a lot of folks who want to create a refuge space for reading or meditation or even a home theater in their basements. In this article I am going to talk about soundproofing your basement from the tenants below or from the noise transmitted by a home theater. The first order of business is to talk about the ceiling. Many times pipes and conduits as well as electrical and cable lines run between the joist cavities in a basement ceiling. A lot of people feel that need to have access to these components, but in order to achieve great soundproofing, there devices need to be sealed up by constructing a sealed drywall ceiling below. If you are concerned about the plumbing and wiring, have a professional come in before your drywall in your new ceiling. Remember that 90% of your plumbing and wiring is behind drywall and if there are problems with them then naturally the drywall will need to be removed. My point here is that if the plumbing and wiring has been inspected and given a clean bill of health, then go ahead and seal up the ceiling below. Generally most basement areas have low ceilings which prevents us from installing a fully floated ceiling, however there is always room for materials like mass loaded vinyl that can be stapled or nailed directly to the bottom of the joists like a membrane. You will caulk all of the seams as well as around the entire perimeter of the MLV using a good quality acoustical caulk, stay away from cheap silicone caulks, they do not work as well. Once the MLV membrane is caulked and sealed properly, it is advised that you also tape the seams with a lead tape or a mass loaded vinyl sealer tape. You will tape directly over the dried caulk. Now it is time for a layer of drywall. I would recommend a layer of 5/8" fire code drywall. This application will stop most of the airborne sound transmission and some of the impact noise from above, but the best way to alleviate the majority of the footfall or impact noise is to float your ceiling using sound clips and metal furring channels. I will talk more bout them in subsequent articles. There is one other method for soundproofing a basement ceiling that I will briefly discuss. Instead of using the mass loaded vinyl, consider installing 2 layers of sheetrock with a layer of Green Glue applied between the 2 layers. Here's how it works. First you make sure you have your batt insulation in place between the joist cavities, this is only necessary if your need the thermal protection of the insulation. Next you would screw in a layer of 5/8" drywall. Always screw in your drywall; never nail it in especially in a ceiling application. Then you will lay out your second layer of 5/8" drywall on saw horses, but on this layer you will apply 3 tubes of a product called Green Glue top the backside of the drywall. Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that is used to deaden or dampen the existing drywall and the newer layer that is being installed. You could apply only 2 tubes of Green Glue per 4' X 8' sheet of drywall, however using 3 tubes per sheet of drywall is much better for soundproofing. Once you have applied the Green Glue to the backside of the second layer of drywall, you will simply screw in the second layer directly over top of the first layer. A little hint here is to screw the second layer of drywall down as tightly as possible without pulling the screw through the drywall, this will insure the best dampening possible of both pieces of drywall. After that second layer of drywall and Green Glue are installed, you will simply tape mud and texture the ceiling as you would a normal ceiling. Well, that's all there is to soundproofing a basement ceiling. For more information about soundproofing a ceiling, walls or floors, read my subsequent articles or simply call a reputable soundproofing company, they will be glad to help you. Until next time, this is Dr. Bob...Out!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O. Soundproofing America, Inc. Senior Technical Director Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079 E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica

Soundproofing a home theater

In today's hurried world, most people don't have the time or money to waste taking the entire family to the movies (up to $50 to $60 per shot) so why not build out a Home Theater in your garage, basement, or spare bedroom? The construction and soundproofing of a Home Theater is much the same as building a soundproof music studio in your home. The only major difference is that with a Home Theater, you are less concerned with sound coming into the Theater than you would be if you were doing recording or voice-overs.

The most effective method for building your Home Theater is to actually construct a room within a room. Basically this means framing out new walls within the existing room. This is a lot simpler than it sounds. If you possess tool skills and are better with them than "Tim Taylor" on "Tool Time", then you most likely are qualified to undertake this project. You will want to frame out new walls within the existing room, this is pretty easy in a basement situation, where at least 2 of the walls are most likely poured concrete or concrete block, and are generally Earthen backed. They need no soundproofing whatsoever.

By framing out the room within a room, you are taking all of the negatives in the room that were working against your soundproofing endeavor, and now making them more friendly in the form of "dead air space". Dead air space (if it is sealed) is good soundproofer in itself, but you will still need a little more soundproofing horsepower if you plan to watch Star Wars or The Matrix (cranked up) in your new Home Theater. Once the new walls are framed out, it is time to soundproof. We have found that good batt insulation such as Roxul AFB or Roxul Safe which are very effective when placed in the stud or joist cavities. If you are unable to find the Roxul products, then use a good quality rock wool or mineral wool to fill the cavities. The next step would be to adhere a layer of American Mass Loaded Vinyl directly to the stud structure. Attaching the MLV directly to the studs or joists allows the vinyl to resonate or move with the sound.

If the MLV is able to resonate, it will work to it's full potential and will give you the sound blocking required for a well-soundproofed theater. The MLV will be stapled (industrial air drive stapler) or nailed (using roofing nails with the large plastic heads) to the studs or joists. If you are able to over lap the seams that would be better, however, if that is not possible, you will want to butt the seams together tightly and caulk both the butted seams as well as the entire perimeter of the newly installed MLV. You want the MLV to act as a soundproof membrane on your walls and ceilings. Caulking and taping the seams is essential for to seal the MLV membrane. The caulked seams will also need to be taped with a quality MLV sealer tape before installing the new drywall. I recommend installing 2 layers of ?" drywall for all of the walls as well as the ceiling. Now if this becomes too costly then a single layer of 5/8" fire code drywall will be sufficient. This should complete the soundproofing portion of your home theater.

Finally, if you are installing 2 layers of drywall to your home theater walls, it is highly recommended that you apply at least 2 tubes of the Green Glue damping compound to the second layer of drywall. Simply lay out the second layer of drywall on saw horses and apply 2 tubes of the Green Glue to the back of the drywall and then simply screw in your new layer of drywall to the existing drywall with the Green Glue sandwiched in between. The Green Glue will dampen both layers of drywall and will also stop the sound of the home theater from flanking onto the walls. Once this is complete, you with then need to acoustically treat the room to give it the look and the acoustical properties of a real theater. We will discuss this in our next article.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

You can read more http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/mass-loaded-vinyl.asp

One Year Later, Roofing Supplies Still Reflect the Effects of Katrina

One year after Katrina made landfall in late August of 2005, the effects are still rippling through the construction industry, especially the roofing industry. All manner of roofing material and supply prices are up 10 to 20% over the last year. Many are in short supply nation wide.

It took only days for the markets to react to the perceived needed increase in building materials in the storm ravaged southern costal areas of the United States. It took only a matter of weeks for the storm to have a major effect on the supply and price of available materials on hand nation wide. Some things like plywood and other forms of sheeting were in high demand just prier to the disaster, being used as damage control measures, and now even in higher demand after Katrina's passing.

Due to the vast amount of damage, and the material needed to rebuild those damaged areas, supplier seeing that shortages in production were inevitable, immediately raised prices to reflect the coming shortages. But the extent of damage was far greater then anyone had anticipated. Reports of damage took weeks and in some cases months to filter into the big picture. All the while suppliers pushed production plants into high gear to try to meet the staggering new demands on materials.

The problems of production quickly became apparent with major shortages in raw material as a result of the damage to southern sea ports where much of the raw materials used in production are received from suppliers around the world. Many of the damaged ports utilized special handling equipment and procedures that would be difficult to duplicate quickly in other sea ports around the country. These post Katrina developments all served to put a server strangle hold on production of Roofing material as well as many other building materials.

Roofing material suppliers diverted in transit shipments to staging areas close to heavily damaged areas. In many cases, larger warehoused stocks of tiles, shingles, metal roofing and related materials were snapped up from large to moderate distributors and transported to Katrina affected areas, leaving many areas of the country with little or no available roofing materials.

Some mistakes were made in the redistribution of roofing materials. Costal areas that are subject to hurricanes have special codes in place that set specific standards for roofing materials, meaning that roofing materials that are approved for use in Nebraska are not necessarily certified for use in hurricane prone regions of the country. Yet virtually all roofing materials were subjected to large quantity redistributions it would seem. One speculation is that companies were hoping for some new guidelines to be put in place that would allow them to use the currently unapproved materials by utilizing upgraded and modified installation methods that in theory would satisfy the roof testing standards. But this is only speculation.

Never the less it quickly became apparent to contractors and home owners nation wide that going to the local lumber yard or Lowes' or other building supply store and obtaining roofing materials will be a much more expensive and challenging experience, possibly for some time to come. It is not uncommon for local distributors to have to wait weeks or even months for roofing materials to become available. Even those materials that are not costal approved. The reason for this type of shortage is caused by the shift in manufacturing to produce more coastally approved materials, which is where the largest demand in usage is in the current market.

The shortage in conventional roofing materials has brought with it a renewed interest in less conventional roofing ideas in many areas of the country. Metal roofing which some years ago, was commonly thought to be reserved for commercial buildings, is now growing in popularity with home owners. New concepts in metal roofing systems as well as new designs have made it an appealing alternative to such things as asphalt shingles and clay or concrete tiles. Metal roofing in its infancy was less then esthetically pleasing to the eye. New designs have emerged in recent years that can mimic almost any kind of roofing material, making it one of the more versatile roofing materials available.

Due to the large amount of new and repair construction taking place in storm damaged areas, metal roofing too has come to be in short supply along with all other roofing materials, and may remain so for some time to come. Only about halfway through this year's hurricane season, no major storms causing any significant damage have hit landfall in the United States. But should that change, and a storm would happen to cause even moderate damage along any of the nations cost line, the results could be even more devastating to the roofing and general construction industry, the effects of which will be felt by consumers for years to come.

The shortage in roofing materials, such as clay and concrete tiles has spawned a new industry so to speak; roofing salvage. With material increasingly hard to acquire, there are companies that specialize in sorting through discarded roofing materials searching for undamaged, usable materials that people are willing to pay for in order to complete restorations or repairs.

The total affect of Katrina will ultimately have on the roofing materials industry is hard to speculate on. Will prices continue to rise at the rate we have seen this last year? No one can say for sure, the determining factors are too great. Basic laws of economics apply, low supply plus high demand always drives prices up. Where will it stabilize? Again there is no way to accurately forecast the supply and demand issue long term.

What is clear is that raw material supply lines are opening up again, which is easing the manufacturing bottle neck slightly. It still may be quite some time before the local supplies have stocks affording customers reasonable onsite selections again. It will be a fact of life, that consumers ultimately will pay higher prices

New Roof Site offers news, articles, links and general information about all manner of roofing material, designs and construction ideas. Providing information for those in need of alternate roofing ideas as well as links to suppliers and roofing contractors in all areas of the country. New Roof Sit is there to help when needed. More articles about new roofing ideas and materials can be found at New Roof Site Articles

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