The Mysteries of Soundproofing Uncovered!

It seems like the big guys never want to tell you their so-called ?Secrets of Soundproofing?. That sort of sounds like a self-help book doesn?t it? Here at Soundproofing America we know that the more knowledge our customers have the easier it is to discuss soundproofing issues intelligently. We will give you in depth information on the best soundproofing materials for your situation and will always provide detailed installation instructions for all of our quality soundproofing products.

There are no secrets regarding soundproofing, but the other guys figure that if you don?t know anything about soundproofing, they can sell you anything they want and will not be held accountable if it doesn?t work because of the buyer beware clause in their contracts.

We here at Soundproofing America don?t do things that way. We know that the more knowledge you have the better your chances are for success.

Soundproofing has many aspects that I will discuss briefly in this article. One is the addition of mass to walls and ceilings or even to your floors. By mass I am referring materials such as lead sheeting and mass loaded vinyl. These barrier materials add mass to your walls for example and act as blockers. Generally lead sheeting or MLV do not have any absorption characteristics, they and basically reflective barriers.

The are best used on bare studs and joists, though they can be adhered over top of existing drywall as long as you de-couple the barriers from the drywall. We will discuss this further in subsequent articles.

The next soundproofing agent we will discuss is a product we call America Mat. America Mat is a closed cell vinyl nitrile foam mat that is used to like the insides of joist or stud cavities. Lining these cavities with America mat will seal the cavities and create a dead air space that if very helpful for soundproofing. America mat can be purchased directly from Soundproofing America by calling their toll free number (877) 530-0139 and please feel free to ask for Dr. Bob, I?ll be more than happy to answer any and all of you soundproofing questions.

Now the third in our countdown of great soundproofing agents are sound dampers. Sound Dampers like Green Glue are my favorite soundproofing agents. Sound dampers are generally a liquid product that is applied to that backside of a layer of drywall and then installed over top of the existing drywall in the area you are soundproofing. The Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that actually deadens the drywall so it is unable to resonate. This inability of the drywall to resonate or vibrate with the sound will actually stop the sound from passing through the drywall and will cause the sound to dissipate. It actually turns into a low-grade heat energy.

Of all the materials described so far, the Green Glue is by far the easiest to install and most effective soundproofing agent on the market today. The difference between the Green Glue and other soundproofing agents is that Green Glue is more effective at stopping the transmission of low frequency sound. Frequencies of 125 Hz and below are the most difficult to stop because they are a much longer sound wave. The longer sound waves are much more difficult to combat than the higher frequencies which are shorter sound waves.

If you want to learn more about soundproofing material and their installation, call the professionals at Soundproofing America your #1 soundproofing resource from coast to coast. This is Dr. Bob?..Out!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Soundproofing On a Budget

Soundproofing your home does not have to cost a fortune. If you are under new construction we all know that money it tight. There are many common hardware store items that can be used for soundproofing that won?t break the bank. Most people don?t think of sand as a soundproofing material, but it actually a very good for soundproofing. If your walls are re-enforced, you can use sand in the stud cavities as a soundproofing material. You must be sure that your walls can withstand the weight of the sand. Always use refined or purified sand, not common beach sand that could cause mold or have other bacterial in it that will cause you problems down the line.

Let?s say you are in the middle of new construction on your new home and you know that one of the rooms is going to be your new home theater. You want that room soundproofed but you budget is already stretched to its limits. Did you know that you can use common rolled roofing material from Home Depot or Lowe?s? Rolled roofing is what is generally used on buildings like chicken coops and other roofs where aesthetics is not an issue but stopping leaks is. Rolled roofing generally comes in 30? long rolls and is 3? wide. I hear the little wheels in your brain spinning at a hundred miles and hour. What am I going to do with all this rolled roofing material? Well, I?m glad you asked. One of the best soundproofing agents on the market today is mass loaded vinyl, (MLV for short) Mass loaded vinyl is a high grade vinyl material that is impregnated with barium salts and silica to give it the same soundproofing properties as lead sheeting without the hazards associated with lead.

Now MLV can cost from $1.25 to $2.00 per sq ft and when you are building your new dream home that just might be beyond your budget. So now enters the rolled roofing material. I am suggesting that you stretch the rolled roofing material across the studs or the joists if you are soundproofing your ceiling. You will staple or nail the rolled roofing directly to the stud structure like a membrane across the face of the studs. The next section of rolled roofing should overlap the first piece by at least 1?. It is essential to caulk the over lap with an acoustical caulk (hey you have to buy something from the soundproofing guy for giving you all this free advice, right?). The acoustical caulk can be purchased from any reputable soundproofing company like Acoustical Solutions, Sound Isolation Company, or Soundproofing America. Any of these companies will carry a good quality acoustical caulk and can ship it to you. Now back to our soundproofed walls. Once you have the rolled roofing in place and you have caulked the 1? over lap, you will also need to caulk around the entire perimeter of the newly installed rolled roofing membrane. There is a little saying we have in the soundproofing industry, ?Caulk is cheap?. I think you get the pun. The point is, use as much caulk as you need to seal every seam gap or crack in your soundproof membrane. You want this roofing material to be as sealed and air tight as possible. Now seeing as the rolled roofing does not have the same soundproofing horsepower as MLV, I would strongly suggest a second layer of the rolled roofing be applied to each wall and to the ceiling area that you that you are soundproofing. Stagger the seams wherever possible This is a small investment to have a soundproof room for your home theater or simply a quiet place to study.

Once you have your 2 layers of rolled roofing installed on your walls and ceiling and everything is caulked liberally, it is time for the finished layer of drywall. I would suggest installing a layer of 5/8? fire code drywall to finish off your soundproofing project. Don?t forget to tape mud and paint the finished drywall.

Now finally I would like to say a little bit about the acoustical caulk. Acoustical caulk is a cheap commodity when compared to the cost of other soundproofing agents, but it is one of the most essential parts of any soundproofing endeavor. Buy a good acoustical caulk and not some cheap silicone caulk. We are already being frugal with the soundproofing material; lets not skimp on the caulk. A good acoustical caulk is OSI-175 SC caulk or Tremco Smoke and Sound caulk. Both of these caulking compounds possess superb acoustical properties. If you have questions about acoustical caulk call one of the online soundproofing companies, they will be glad to help you.

Once the drywall is up and the rolled roofing is completely covered, you will discover that you have a well-soundproofed room and you did it a half the cost of using the professional soundproofing agents. That being said, today?s modern soundproofing products are extremely effective and I feel very reasonably priced compared to other specialized building materials. In this article I just wanted to show that there are other ways to soundproof a wall or ceiling with out using the more costly professional soundproofing agents. I hope this narrative has been informative; it was a pleasure writing it, as there is so little information out on the net about soundproofing. Once again, this is Dr. Bob?Out!

Dr. Bob O. Soundproofing America, Inc. Senior Technical Director Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079 E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com Website: http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Batt Insulations, are they a sound investment in Soundproofing?

"Which batt type insulation will give me the best soundproofing?" I hear this question a lot, or better still, "Do I need to add more soundproofing if I already have insulation in the walls and ceilings?" Keep in mind that any batt type insulation, though it may be a great thermal insulator, is generally not very good as a soundproofing agent. If batt insulations such as fiberglass insulation or Icynene were effective soundproofing products, the big boys like Johns Manville ? and Owens Corning ? would take over the soundproofing industry and leave the real professionals out in the cold. Luckily knowledge is still power and it will be a while before all the soundproofing companies are put out of business.

If you are serious about soundproofing always consider batt insulations as the proverbial "icing on the cake". They simply don't have the horsepower to be stand alone soundproofing agents such as lead, closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl. There are some good sound batt insulations on the market today, one is Roxul AFB? (acoustic fire batt). Roxul? is a rock wool that is made up of mining slag Canada that is hit with high pressure air thus giving it the properties of a very dense fiberglass insulation and while it will provide the end user with an R-13 for the 3 ?" variety and an R-19 for the 5 ?" batts, it's main function in life is to provide superb sound absorption and structural dampening of wall and joist cavities. It is a know fact that damping a structure; especially a wooden structure helps to control the transmission and vibration of sound through said structure.

Bonded Logic?, a company in Arizona also provides a cotton sound batt insulation that is great for filling voids and cavities where sound control is essential. The cotton is an inert material that absorbs sound but does not transmit through its fibers like fiberglass insulation does.

Fiberglass insulation is one of the worst for soundproofing agents out these. It actually transmits sound through its very fibers thus causing the annoying noise to appear amplified. If you are forced to use fiberglass insulation make sure it is isolated from either the sub floor or the ceiling below. Never pack fiberglass into cavities or voids. By isolation the fiberglass insulation from the sub floor above or the ceiling below you will break the sound transmission circuit from the floor above to the ceiling below. The same applies to walls, if the fiberglass insulation is touching one side of your drywall, make certain that it does not come in contact with the other side of the drywall. This makes perfect sense once you know the nature of fiberglass insulation.

To sum this up, never count on any batt type insulation to be your stand-alone soundproofing agent. You will always need the horsepower of lead, mass loaded vinyl, closed cell foam, or of course my favorite, Green Glue?. You can read about these great soundproofing agents in subsequent articles throughout the Internet. For now, this is Dr. Bob, The Green Glue King, signing off and may all of your soundproofing journeys be smooth ones.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

You can read more articles on soundproofing on our blog

"Which batt type insulation will give me the best soundproofing?" I hear this question a lot, or better still, "Do I need to add more soundproofing if I already have insulation in the walls and ceilings?" Keep in mind that any batt type insulation, though it may be a great thermal insulator, is generally not very good as a soundproofing agent

Selecting the Right Asphalt Roofing Shingles for Your Home

The Difference between Fiberglass and Organic Asphalt Shingles

Asphalt Shingles are one of the most common choices for roofing materials. As a matter of fact, at least 75% of the homes in the United States use asphalt shingles. Asphalt shingles come in various styles and costs and have warranty packages from 20-40 years.

There are two types of asphalt shingle construction: Fiberglass mat based shingles and Organic mat based shingles.

Fiberglass based shingles are thinner and lighter, as their backing is made out of a fiberglass mat. Note: A bundle of asphalt shingles can weigh between 70 and 140 lbs and there are typically 3 bundles of shingles per square (100 sqft per square of shingles). Consequently fiberglass mat based shingles are easier to lift making a roofer's job easier when carrying shingles up a ladder. Fiberglass mat shingles are also more fire retardant and typically have slightly longer warranties than organic based shingles.

Organic based shingles are heavier and considered more rugged as their mat backing is made out of felt paper and asphalt. They are heavier due to the fact that there is literally more asphalt used in them than a Fiberglass mat shingle. Organic mat based shingles are also considered more flexible than fiberglass shingles, however they are known to be more water absorbent and can warp over time. As a result of these differences Fiberglass mat shingles are used much more prevalently in the southern and central part of the United States, and Organic mat based shingles are used more in the northern part.

Fiberglass Asphalt based shingles used on your home should be compliant with ASTM D-3462 standards, and Organic based shingles used on your home should be compliant with ASTM D-225. More and more municipalities are requiring shingles to meet these standards, so you should check with your local building inspector and read the label on the shingles prior to purchasing them. Fiberglass and Organic mat based shingles are comparably priced. They can range anywhere from $25 to $80 per square.

3-Tab shingles have been around for a long time and are still the most common shingle installed, however more and more homeowners are moving towards architectural shingles. Architectural shingles are a little more expensive but are actually easier to install, as less care is needed in ensuring straight lines. Architectural Shingles typically also have longer warranty periods.

3-Tab shingles typically require greater skill and longer installation times as the roofing contractor needs to ensure that wavy shingle lines are not created when installing the shingles. Architectural shingles, on the other hand, are a little easier to install as the lines and shadows are designed to be more complex. As a result, imperfections in the installation process of architectural shingles can be more difficult to see.

Architectural shingles typically cost most than 3-Tab shingles, however their cost may be somewhat mitigated by a lower installation cost.

Whatever shingles you decide to use, make sure you read the shingle packaging labels and check with your local building inspector first. Your home's roof is one of the most import aspects of your home. An improperly installed shingle job or the installation of the wrong shingles can lead to expensive water damage and high repair costs.

For more help on Shingling Your Home's Roof, see HomeAdditionPlus.com's Asphalt Shingle Roofing Bid Sheet. The Asphalt Shingle Roofing Bid Sheet will help to ensure that your roof won't end up with a blue tarp over it and a dumpster sitting in your yard for weeks as you wait for the roofing contractor to come back and finish roofing your home.

Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes and is a licensed real estate agent. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more home improvement information visit http://www.homeadditionplus.com and http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com

Soundproofing Solutions for Your Home or Business

We live in a noisy world. Noise seems to be everywhere - traffic, construction, loud music, crowded buildings. Noise can even be a problem in labs and offices. The problem has become so wide-spread we have even created a term for it: noise pollution. It may not be possible to stop all that noise, but thanks to advances in technology, there are ways to isolate ourselves from it. To understand how we can begin to isolate ourselves from all that noise, we need a basic understanding of how sound travels - not just through the air, but through walls, floors and ceilings.

Sound travels through the air in waves, and those waves cause the objects they come into contact with to vibrate. When a sound is loud enough, those vibrations can travel through walls, floors and ceilings transferring sound into our buildings from the outside or from room to room and floor to floor on the inside. The key to effectively stopping unwanted noise from invading our space is to stop the vibration.

In most homes and commercial buildings, walls and floors have an interior support structure of wood or steel studs or joists and are covered with some form of rigid sheeting like drywall or particle board flooring, leaving an air space between the walls, floors and ceilings. That air space allows for the easy transfer of sound waves with very little solid mass for the sound to vibrate through or slow its transfer. One of the most common methods used to reduce the transfer of that sound has been to insulate the wall, floor or ceiling with one of several types of insulation. This may reduce the transfer of sound vibrations through the air space, but does nothing to stop the sound transferred through studs, drywall, joists or flooring.

It's also important to understand that not all sound frequencies are not the same when it comes to insulation. Lab tests show that low frequency sounds aren't stopped by insulation, and high frequency sounds aren't reduced significantly. Insulating the air space is only effective in deadening mid-range frequency sound.

Then how is sound transferred in an insulated wall? When drywall is nailed directly to wall studs, sound waves vibrate the drywall, that vibration is transferred to the stud, and is finally transferred to the drywall on the other side of the wall. That vibrates the air in the room and the vibrations become sound waves again. The industry calls this coupling.

One method to reduce this transfer of vibration is called de-coupling. De-coupling is nothing more than creating a space between the drywall and studs. This dampens the sound. That is, the vibration and resulting transfer of sound is greatly reduced. This can easily be done during construction by placing a resilient cushion between the drywall and stud to absorb the vibration. There are clips and channels available for that purpose. Another even more effective method is to install a cushioning sheet over the stud wall and under the drywall, or over floor joists and under sub-flooring, When combined with insulating the air space between walls and floors, there is a significant reduction in the transfer of high, low and mid-range sound frequencies.

It is also important to seal around all outside door and window openings with a good quality caulk. To reduce the transfer of sound from room to room, don't forget to seal outlets and install duct liners in furnace and air exchange duct work. When used together, each of these methods will go a long way in controlling the transfer of unwanted sound.

So far we have considered reducing sound in a home, a commercial building or a single room or area. And these methods are really only practical for new construction. They also can't completely eliminate sound - only reduce it to acceptable levels.

What can be done when retro-fitting a room isn't cost effective and sound isolation is needed? The answer may be as small as a portable "mini" sound shelter or as large as a sound isolation room. There are any number of applications where sound isolation is required. Hearing testing, speech therapy, psychological testing and data recording and industrial applications are just a few.

To meet those needs audiometric booths, sound isolation rooms and noise reduction rooms are available. By incorporating innovations like carpeted vibration isolated floors, space-saver roof mounted ventilation, recessed electrical outlets, noise-lock doors, double glazed windows and double thick modular wall panels, sound can be controlled in small spaces such as a portable booth or as large as a room within a room.

Understanding a bit about sound, how it travels and what can stop it can help you decide what you need to do to control the sound around you. Whether you want to keep the noise of the outside world out, quiet a part of your home or commercial building or need an area of sound isolation, understanding the technology that is available can help you make a sound decision.

Integrity Acoustic Solutions builds, installs, and repairs audiometric booths, sound isolation rooms, and noise reductions rooms for medical and educational institutions.

About Roofing Shingles

Roofing Shingles Installation Basics

When it comes time to replace the shingles on your home, you will need all the information you can get in regards roofing shingles installation basics. Therefore, why not start at the beginning, with the types of roofing shingles. There are four popular categories of shingles, wood shakes, slate, laminated, and asphalt shingles. To know which you should be choosing, you should understand how each one works and what features they have, all of which can help you determine which is right for you.

Asphalt roofing shingles are the most popular of all types. They are constructed with paper, glass, or fiber, with intense durability. These shingles are designed to last between twenty and thirty years.

Laminated roofing shingles are also becoming extremely popular. These shingles have a design that adds depth, color, and character to any room. Constructed with many different materials, such as asphalt, it creates a look of expensive roofing materials, without the large costs.

Slate roofing shingles also referred to as stone shingles are heavy but durable. Popular, but not overly used before it tends to break easy and can be extremely hard to work with. Many people enjoy the natural, handcrafted, and colorful look that slate shingles offer, as well as the durability, which allows the shingles to last for more than 100 years.

Wood roofing shingles, also known as shakes, are constructed with different treated woods such as pine, spruce, or cedar, and although cedar is the best type of wood used. While with first installation, the wood shingles are bright and lively colors, after the first year of use, it will dull quickly to the color of gray. Furthermore, splintering, warping, and shrinking are common complaints with wood roofing shingles, and generally have to be replaced within thirty years or less.

If you simply do not know how to or want to install your own roofing shingles, your best bet is to hire a professional roofer. When contacting roofers make sure that you opt for a company that is well established, carries a business license, and has permanent addresses and telephone numbers. Ask to view the companies insurance, bonding, training, and certificate information.

You will also want to choose a company that provides you with a full, written estimate of every aspect of the job; this includes time of completion, warranty, labor costs, and materials they intend to use. Before choosing a roofing shingles installer, make sure that you obtain a minimum of three estimates. This allows you to compare prices, as well as warranty, services, and ultimately work ethics. Obtain references, this is obviously important, you are entrusting the roofer with a valuable possession, your home. You want to be sure that they are qualified, trustworthy, hardworking, and professional.

Daniel Roshard is a interior designer fascinated by garden architecture, he is currently studying interior design integration to public parks and gardens. Daniel is writing Roof Shingles and Roofing reviews for ZupaTips.com

Is Insulation Really effective Soundproofing for Walls?

One of the oldest and most established methods for improving the sound isolation of walls is the use of insulation. It?s fast, reasonably inexpensive and easy to install. You probably have some interior walls in your own home filled with insulation. But how effective is it, anyway? Does it stop the type of sound that is most annoying you?

It might be best to first consider how sound moves from one side of a wall to the other. A typical wall will have a sheet of drywall / stud / drywall. The wall will have air spaces in between the studs. The drywall is very rigidly connected to the studs.

Sound waves will hit that wall, and attempt to vibrate through to the room next door (or floor below, etc). The sound can vibrate into the next room through one of two paths:

Through the rigid drywall-stud-drywall connection path
Through the open drywall?airspace?drywall path

The insulation will only be able to affect the vibration traveling through the airspace between the studs. The rigid drywall?stud?drywall connection is not reduced with insulation, obviously, and will conduct vibration just as effectively whether insulated or uninsulated.

This has been an extensively laboratory tested scenario, fortunately. The detail of such lab tests are conclusive, and one finds that the low frequencies are not stopped by the addition of insulation. Further, the high frequencies are not reduced significantly. Mid frequencies are reduced somewhat, however, allowing the overall rating of an insulated wall to be 2-3 STC (measurement of sound isolation) points higher than an un-insulated wall. This seems like a good thing. At least the insulation reduces the middle frequencies.

The problem, however, is that most sound isolation problems are in the low frequencies that insulation does not affect. This means that for many of us, insulation alone won?t stop the sounds that bother us the most.

Does this mean insulation is useless for soundproofing? Not at all. It simply points to the fact that insulation shouldn?t be relied on as the sole solution for soundproofing. If you are building a home or an addition or remodeling, you just can?t rely on insulation alone to soundproof.

So where does insulation play a role in sound isolation? Insulation is a great synergist with any of the following other sound isolation techniques:

De-couple the walls with staggered stud or double stud construction (very effective)

Increase the mass of the wall (moderately effective) by adding drywall.

Damp the wall with a field applied damping compound (very effective)

By deploying a combined technique approach, you will have much greater success in your soundproofing efforts.

Draught Proofing Your Home

This article takes a look at a number of ways of preventing or reducing draughts in your home. There are areas we look at are doors, windows and double-glazing, garage doors and finally some of the furnishings you could use to prevent draughts. Draughts are obviously caused by the cold air from outside being drawn into the house and replacing warmer air. The knock on effect of preventing draughts is a reduction in your heating bill and a warmer home. Draughts can be identified in a number of ways such as identifying obvious gaps, feeling for moving air around doors and windows and looking out for moving curtains.

As we mentioned earlier double-glazing can reduce draughts. It can also reduce heat loss, noise pollution and condensation, and all of these benefits reinforce the decision to get double-glazing. Reducing heat loss will obviously reduce heating bills and by making heating your property much more efficient. This in turn means you are making a contribution to reducing pollution and so benefiting the environment. The reduction in noise will give you a greater sense of privacy, particular if you live alongside a busy road, plus condensation can damage soft furnishings and create a damp atmosphere. By buying sealed units which fit perfecting onto their frame you are ensuring a draught free environment.

The most common area for draughts is a door. Not only is there often a gap between the door and its frame, but doors can also have cat flaps, keyholes and letterboxes. Modern doors and their frames have been built with excluding draughts in mind, but older doors are much vulnerable. You should look at draught proofing any holes or gaps around the door or indeed in the door such as cat flaps. An alternative is a draught excluder, which can be stretched along the bottom of the door where the draughts are more likely to come from.

If you have an integral garage then this is an area, which can let the cold and draughts into your property. You should not only draught proof the internal door to the garage but also the garage door itself. The best style of garage doors for keeping draughts down are the roller and sectional garage doors. These fit snugly onto tracks fitted onto the side of the garage, unlike the up and over garage door or the more traditional side hung door.

So, these are just some of the areas to attack when looking reduce draught and retain the warmth in your home.

Garry John has contributed to several home improvement sites such as garage doors and double glazing.

 

Essentials Of Metal Roofing And Metal Roofing Siding

There are literally many things that comprises of your metal roofing. They can give you a good and lasting protection against weathering. These days, metal roofing is gaining popularity once again.

Most roofing panels have its siding; there are the ones that are installed on the sides of your house. They are essentially almost made from the same materials that you choose for your roofing but there can be other materials used if you prefer other types.

Metal roofing siding is the part where the roof is exposed. They need to be closed to make the roof fuller and protected. If you want to invest on good roofing, the siding will also come in consideration as they are of the same material.

Commonly, only a few types of roofing are available that you might want to choose from. Here are some of their quick features and disadvantages:

1. As with siding components, one of the most common metal roofing materials is steel. They are prone to corrosion and rusting. However, that can be remedied with a nice coating of zinc. Additionally, you can also seal it to preserve its natural look. There is also stainless steel. They are a little expensive but share the same characteristics as plain steel.

2. There is also aluminum. They are often found on other lightweight materials in your home as well. They are light enough to handle and will never rust but a nice treatment will extend its nice looks.

3. Copper is also used for metal roofing. This is the metal for people with quite a lot of budget to spare because they are very expensive. Being the softest roofing material, they can be easily bended to gain more customization options for your metal roof siding needs. This has a nice red appearance but it will soon wear out in a couple of years. Consider buying copper roofing that is already treated to let their nice sheen last longer.

Many stores have them. Usually the steel types are the ones you can easily spot. However, if you really want to customize your roofing, consider looking for them online. It would make your project planning easier as they can delivery it right to your home and you don't even need to go anywhere but your desktop.

For tips on using metal roofing, visit http://www.metalroofing101.com