Proofing - A Critical Function Not to be Overlooked

Proofing

Business people universally agree that mechanical mistakes detract from the professionalism of communications. However, those with proofreading responsibilities commonly experience real frustrations in producing error-free work. They typically identify certain specific obstacles to accurate proofreading.

1. Overlooking mistakes when proofreading
2. Making time for proofreading in a pressured environment
3. Lacking self-confidence in a reliable system
4. Providing helpful, non-critical proofreading support to others
5. Lacking certainty about acceptable guidelines.

In the rush and pressure of sending communications, writers are often tempted to skip the final proofreading step. They send it to their printer, and approve it without really proofing it. After all, if the content is clear, who will mind a few mechanical mistakes?

In reality, readers do mind. Many readers report that their opinion of the writer's professionalism goes down a notch with every error they see. Mechanical mistakes send a message that writers are not investing much effort in the communication -that, in effect, writers do not care.

In addition, overlooked proofreading errors can sometimes change the content -often with some significant financial results.

1. One government agency wasted $3 million by not catching a hyphen error when proofreading a purchase order. In originally writing the order, the agency had meant to say, "1,000-foot-long radium bars." The order was typed, "1,000 foot-long radium bars."

2. One insurance firm reported that an employee mailed a check for $2,200 as a settlement for a dental claim. Payment of only $22.00 had been authorized.

3. A magazine accidentally ran a cake recipe in which "3/4 cup" was printed as "1/4 cup." Irate readers sent complaint letters and cancelled their subscriptions.

Obviously, there is also the financial cost of having to reprint the project correctly.

A great writing that clearly depicts why live personal proofreading is so important is the following:

I have a spelling checker;
It came with my PC;
It plainly marks four my revue
Mistakes I cannot sea.
I have run this poem threw it;
I am sure your pleased to no.
It is letter-perfect in its weigh;
My checker tolled me sew.

(By: Penny Harper)

The Three Principles of Proofreading

1. Go over a communication several times -several quick run-throughs are more effective than one slow reading.

2. Look for one type of error at each step.

3. Check for large, non-text errors before checking for small errors in the text.

Proofreading Techniques

Step One:

Cool off -If you created the communications piece, proofread later what you work on now. Be sure that you have access to an easy-to-use, updated reference like the Gregg Reference Manual. Also, make sure that you have a recent dictionary close by.

Step Two:

Get a preliminary overview of purpose and content. Read over the communication quickly to make sure that all major parts/sections are present, and that they say what is intended.

Step Three:

Check for all non-text parts -
1. Check for proper format and layout:
- margins
- consistent spacing and headings
- placement of dates, names, addresses, and other parts of the communication
2. Check for correct spelling of names and places.
3. Check accuracy of dates, addresses, and numbers.

Step Four:

Check the text, looking for errors in these areas. Use a card or ruler to slow yourself down.
1. Check for typographical errors -read aloud, saying each syllable of each word carefully. Look for omissions of parts of words.
2. Check for spelling errors.
3. Check for obvious grammatical mistakes, capitalization, and punctuation.

Step Five:

Read the communication backwards -from bottom to top, right to left -to pick up any typographical mistakes you may have missed.

Step Six:

Ask someone else to do a final check if it has to be perfect.

Scanning Patterns

The purpose of scanning patterns is to provide ways to find mistakes without reading for meaning. When proofreaders try to find errors while reading complete, logical sentences, they can miss mistakes because they get caught up in the meaning. Each scanning pattern is helpful in finding certain kinds of errors; choose the best pattern for the kind of text you are proofreading.

Block Scanning

This method of scanning focuses on essential information.
* Accuracy of numbers, dates, amounts of money, addresses
* Correct spelling of names and places
* Correct capitalization of names and places

Using this method, proofreaders are not looking and sentence structure, punctuation, or other grammatical skills. With this pattern, they can scan sections of print for critical information.

Column Scanning

This pattern is useful when proofreading columns of information. Column scanning is also used to proofread text by dividing the text into several columns.

To apply this pattern, direct the eyes straight down a column of print.

Fixation Scanning

Fixation scanning allows you to proofread groups of words, but without getting caught up in the meaning of sentences. This pattern is particularly helpful in finding doubly-typed words, by looking at the end of one line of text and the beginning of the next.

J. Wentworth
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Basic Things About Roofing Contractors

It is inevitable for every structure to have a roof; you will never find a house or a building that does not have a roof. Its basic purpose is to provide security, much like why walls are put up around structures. However, building constructors and engineers have devised additional use of roofing - that is for a stylish capping of the structures they erect. Nevertheless, the style would only last if the materials used would make the roof sturdy and durable.

Through time, man has devised an array of ways to deal with different materials to build roofs, each with its own strong and weak points relative to conditions of weather and area restrictions. These are what roofing contractors know best.

If you are surveying for roofing materials, contact first a roofing constructor in order to provide you with several options. Roofing constructors also need to explain the exact roofing materials you need against the materials they want to give you. Budget allocation also influences the final choice of the material to be used for roofing a structure.

However, the following provide a brief description and costing of different roofing materials you can discuss with a roofing constructor:

Asphalt Shingles

This is the most common choice among roofing materials. This is classified as organic and fiberglass. The durability of asphalt shingles ranges from between 20 up to 40 years. Roofing of this material rates from 30 to 35 dollars.

Wood Shingles

Western Red Cedar is the usual material used for wood shingles because this wood variety does not easily crumble. This has three categories. Number one category is highly recommended for roofing because it is durable unlike the other two categories, which are only used for lining purposes. They are usually sold thinly and in different sizes. This type of roofing normally costs between 80 up to 170 dollars.

Wood Shakes

This is another roofing material from cedar. They are usually chosen for their natural look because they are usually sawed or even hand split. Likewise, they are normally categorized according to their weights and differing sizes. Costs for wood shake are much cheaper which is from an inexpensive 70 to a mere hundred dollars.

Concrete or clay roofing

If you are looking for the most corrosive-resistant roofing material, this is the item to choose. Concrete or clay roofing prices range from 150 to 400 dollars in similar dimension for its durability that lasts from at least fifty up to a century. Be it flat or corrugated, this type of roofing usually requires additional costing for extra weight needed in the roof beams.

A new roof is something that costs a lot of money, and getting a new roof can give you many new options for a new cover for your house, learn about {http://roofing.zupatips.com/"}Roofing Costs and much more about roofing at http://roofing.zupatips.com

Hiring Roofing Contractors

If you are looking into buying a property or a house, or you are thinking bout getting some home improvement projects for your current house you will know that the roof is a very bid issue, no one wants to move into a house that has a roof that will not survive the next winter. Changing a roof, or even making slight changes and fixing tasks for a roof, is something that can really get in the way of normal life, especially if done in winter, or on a rainy season.

So if you are interested in knowing a little more about roofing and the work, costs and ideas behind having a new roof for your house, you should research this area, and make sure that you understand and know the basic concepts before you even meet with a roofing contractor that will confuse you with dozens of terms and names you have no clue about, and above all, with a price list that will probably knock you off your feet.

Building constructors and engineers have devised additional use of roofing - that is for a stylish ?capping? of the structures they erect. Nevertheless, the style would only last if the materials used would make the roof sturdy and durable.

Through time, man has devised an array of ways to deal with different materials to build roofs, each with its own strong and weak points relative to conditions of weather and area restrictions. These are what roofing contractors know best.

Roofing contractors often do three R?s in roofing:

1. Renew

Roofing contractors can be relied upon when it comes to installing new shingles. They are considered as experts in putting a new cap for a structure.

2. Repair

Roofing contractors also help to correct the problem and to make things better and safe in a building.

3. Remodel

If able to fix the damage, roofing contractors install additional scaffolds and add-ons to keep any other damage from occurring.

If you are surveying for roofing materials, contact first a roofing constructor in order to provide you with several options. Roofing constructors also need to explain the exact roofing materials you need against the materials they want to give you. Budget allocation also influences the final choice of the material to be used for roofing a structure.

As with all other contractors it is always advisable to try and find other people he worked for and see the results, or at least have a short conversation with the owners of houses this contractor made earlier work on, when you are finalizing the details try and have some kind of paper of agreement that you can both sign and that will hold the basic understandings between you and the contractor.

Daniel Roshard is a interior designer that has wide knowledge of home improvement tasks and projects, covering roofing and roof installation costs in one of his sites. Read more about Roofing Costs, and roofing information and buying tips.

Soundproofing On a Budget

Soundproofing your home does not have to cost a fortune. If you are under new construction we all know that money it tight. There are many common hardware store items that can be used for soundproofing that won?t break the bank. Most people don?t think of sand as a soundproofing material, but it actually a very good for soundproofing. If your walls are re-enforced, you can use sand in the stud cavities as a soundproofing material. You must be sure that your walls can withstand the weight of the sand. Always use refined or purified sand, not common beach sand that could cause mold or have other bacterial in it that will cause you problems down the line.

Let?s say you are in the middle of new construction on your new home and you know that one of the rooms is going to be your new home theater. You want that room soundproofed but you budget is already stretched to its limits. Did you know that you can use common rolled roofing material from Home Depot or Lowe?s? Rolled roofing is what is generally used on buildings like chicken coops and other roofs where aesthetics is not an issue but stopping leaks is. Rolled roofing generally comes in 30? long rolls and is 3? wide. I hear the little wheels in your brain spinning at a hundred miles and hour. What am I going to do with all this rolled roofing material? Well, I?m glad you asked. One of the best soundproofing agents on the market today is mass loaded vinyl, (MLV for short) Mass loaded vinyl is a high grade vinyl material that is impregnated with barium salts and silica to give it the same soundproofing properties as lead sheeting without the hazards associated with lead.

Now MLV can cost from $1.25 to $2.00 per sq ft and when you are building your new dream home that just might be beyond your budget. So now enters the rolled roofing material. I am suggesting that you stretch the rolled roofing material across the studs or the joists if you are soundproofing your ceiling. You will staple or nail the rolled roofing directly to the stud structure like a membrane across the face of the studs. The next section of rolled roofing should overlap the first piece by at least 1?. It is essential to caulk the over lap with an acoustical caulk (hey you have to buy something from the soundproofing guy for giving you all this free advice, right?). The acoustical caulk can be purchased from any reputable soundproofing company like Acoustical Solutions, Sound Isolation Company, or Soundproofing America. Any of these companies will carry a good quality acoustical caulk and can ship it to you. Now back to our soundproofed walls. Once you have the rolled roofing in place and you have caulked the 1? over lap, you will also need to caulk around the entire perimeter of the newly installed rolled roofing membrane. There is a little saying we have in the soundproofing industry, ?Caulk is cheap?. I think you get the pun. The point is, use as much caulk as you need to seal every seam gap or crack in your soundproof membrane. You want this roofing material to be as sealed and air tight as possible. Now seeing as the rolled roofing does not have the same soundproofing horsepower as MLV, I would strongly suggest a second layer of the rolled roofing be applied to each wall and to the ceiling area that you that you are soundproofing. Stagger the seams wherever possible This is a small investment to have a soundproof room for your home theater or simply a quiet place to study.

Once you have your 2 layers of rolled roofing installed on your walls and ceiling and everything is caulked liberally, it is time for the finished layer of drywall. I would suggest installing a layer of 5/8? fire code drywall to finish off your soundproofing project. Don?t forget to tape mud and paint the finished drywall.

Now finally I would like to say a little bit about the acoustical caulk. Acoustical caulk is a cheap commodity when compared to the cost of other soundproofing agents, but it is one of the most essential parts of any soundproofing endeavor. Buy a good acoustical caulk and not some cheap silicone caulk. We are already being frugal with the soundproofing material; lets not skimp on the caulk. A good acoustical caulk is OSI-175 SC caulk or Tremco Smoke and Sound caulk. Both of these caulking compounds possess superb acoustical properties. If you have questions about acoustical caulk call one of the online soundproofing companies, they will be glad to help you.

Once the drywall is up and the rolled roofing is completely covered, you will discover that you have a well-soundproofed room and you did it a half the cost of using the professional soundproofing agents. That being said, today?s modern soundproofing products are extremely effective and I feel very reasonably priced compared to other specialized building materials. In this article I just wanted to show that there are other ways to soundproof a wall or ceiling with out using the more costly professional soundproofing agents. I hope this narrative has been informative; it was a pleasure writing it, as there is so little information out on the net about soundproofing. Once again, this is Dr. Bob?Out!

Dr. Bob O. Soundproofing America, Inc. Senior Technical Director Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079 E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com Website: http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Building and Soundproofing a Home Recording Studio

"How do I soundproof my garage, basement, or a bedroom in my single family house or condo so my 4 piece rock band can practice and record and not bother the neighbors?"

If I had a dollar for every time I was asked this question, I would be in the Bahamas right now, instead of writing this article. Many factors need to be considered prior to beginning your studio or practice room-soundproofing project. Some of the questions you should be asking yourself are: What type of amplification will the band be using, are the drums going to be acoustic and miked or are they digital. Are you going to be recording live late at night or are we going to be doing "line in" recording only? These questions and many more need to be considered before the actual construction begins. If live recording and rehearsal are the plan, then maximum soundproofing will be needed. The most effective way to soundproof a garage, basement, or bedroom is to actually construct a room within a room (go to www.auralex.com) and download the free booklet "Acoustics 101", this is a wonderful resource for the home studio builder.

Their ideas are solid and applicable to any studio-soundproofing project. The room within a room concept utilizes the sealed dead air space that is captured between the inner walls and the outer walls to help greatly with the soundproofing endeavor. It is probably easiest to frame the walls on the floor and then tilt them up into place thus making dry walling the outside of the walls much easier. It is also highly recommended that another ceiling be joisted out for the room within a room, however, this is often times not possible due to space constraints.

In this case, the existing ceiling and ceiling joists may be used as the ultimate ceiling for the studio, provided that it is adequately soundproofed with materials such as the mass loaded vinyl or a combination of closed cell foam mat and MLV. I will elaborate on these materials, as we get further into this article. Once the walls are framed out and the right amount of "Dead air space" is determined, then it is time to install the soundproofing. The first order of business is to consider what needs to be done to the wall cavities prior to installing a barrier and finally the wallboard. I like to line the inside cavities with a closed cell vinyl nitrile foam mat such as American Mat. This mat (generally 1/4" thickness) is adhered to the inside cavity walls as well as the studs and joists using a contact cement to adhere the mat. Keep in mind that the American Mat is used to line the cavities only, not to fill the cavity. If thermal insulation is needed, use products such as rock wool, mineral wool, cut wool fibers, or my favorite, Roxul. Roxul is a great thermal rock wool based batt type insulation that has great soundproofing qualities. If thermal insulation is a requirement for the practice room or studio, then Roxul is the way to go.

Now we come to a crossroads, it is time to determine if decoupling the walls using resilient channels or American Sound clips is a necessity. De coupling is used when impact transmission or low frequency noise is a factor. Impact would come primarily from the drums (acoustic type) or the bass amplifier. However, if the band is using Marshall high powered amps (50 watt amps with 4 X 12 cabinets for example) along with miked acoustic drums and an Ampeg bass system, then decoupling will most likely be necessary. These methods and procedures will be explained in later articles. If decoupling were determined to be unnecessary, then the next step would be to find a good barrier material such as American mass loaded vinyl (which is a high grade mass loaded vinyl barrier). This barrier could be stapled directly to the studwork on a wall assembly or directly to the joists. This is a method that is used if cost or space constraints are factors. If the barrier material is to be stapled directly to the stud or joist framing then it is best that the seams be over lapped, caulked (using OSI acoustical caulking compound) and then taped with either a lead tape or a heavy-duty PVC seam tape.

Once the Mass Loaded vinyl (MLV) is installed and sealed, it is time to install the final layer of drywall. I always recommend using 5/8? drywall as the final layer because of its mass and its sound blocking abilities. . It is always advisable to butter the edges of the last layer of drywall with acoustical caulk. You want to grab every STC (sound transmission class) point you can when trying to make your new studio as soundproof as possible. Finally you will tape mud and paint your final layer of drywall. Now you have a great soundproof home recording studio. We will discuss acoustical treatments for your studio in subsequent articles, but for now you are well on your way to having a professional grade-recording studio in your home.

Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
Website: http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

How To Compare Estimates For Roofing

How do you decide which roofing contractor to use based on the estimates that you have got? It's easy enough calling a few and asking them for an estimate. But once you have it, how do you choose? You have to start even before you get the estimate. When you ask a contractor for an estimate, tell him you would like a very detailed one. It is only if you have this that you will be able to take an informed decision. Also keep references of the contractor at hand. The best way would be to get references from him, call up the party and ask what they think about him. This is the ammunition you are going to work with.

Don't go straight for the lowest bid. (Of course, you might choose him eventually, but don't jump in and select him on that basis before you have examined all the factors.) Take a look at the various important areas in the estimate and compare one with another on each point. First of all, look at the material used and how much it costs. The estimate should ideally state all the materials that are going to be used. If one estimate is considerably lower than the others, it could be that the material that has been costed for is of a quality that is inferior to the others. This may sound good to you but are you sure that it will last as long as the others? It would help if you decided right in the beginning that you will not sacrifice quality at the altar of price.

Check to see if the contractor has estimated the correct quantity of materials. This could be a bit difficult as most of us have no idea how much of what you will need. You could perhaps check this online in a forum or try and call someone who knows who can give you a ballpark figure once he knows the area to be done. Some people could give you an estimate per running foot which might make it easier for you to judge. Pay attention to the sealants and insulation that are estimated too as these have to be of acceptable quality. Do remember it means not just a long-lasting product you will be looking at here but something that could be power-saving as well. Thicker insulation material could mean lower heating and air-conditioning costs. This is because your roof then allows less cold or heat into your home. These costs could add up to a lot in the long run.

Does the labor factor in the estimate seem too high? Most contractors who employ trained and certified labor do tend to cost higher in this area. Do check to see if this is the case. Or if all of them have trained labor and one is charging higher. This could also reflect whether or not the labor is insured or not. It would help to pay a bit extra and get labor where all the insurance has been looked after by the contractor or firm you will be employing. This would save you a fortune just in case there is a mishap while your work is being carried out.

Check for transport, pass-through and miscellaneous cost as well. Very often, this is where there is a lot of 'plumping up' done. Ask for the specific break down especially if you feel that the cost for transporting the materials seems too much. Find out from where the materials have to be brought from and do your own calculations. Once you've made all the comparisons against these various parameters, use your notes to take a practical decision of which person will be best suited for the job. Let it be a logical decision, one that flows from the notes before you.

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Cheap soundproofing using American Sound Isolation tape.

American Sound Isolation tape is a great way to give you new home or addition some good soundproofing without spending a fortune. This sound isolation tape comes in 100 lineal ft rolls and it 1 7/16 " wide or basically the width of a stud or joist end. You simply peel off the backing and adhere to the Isolation tape to the face of all of the studs or the joist prior to screwing in the sheetrock. This will isolate the stud or joist structure from the finished drywall. This isolation helps to reduce airborne sound transmission as well as structure borne transmission through the studs or joists. There is another method that employs the American sound isolation tape and that is to double layer it on every other stud. If your studs are 16 OC then you will be taping every other stud at 32" OC. Once you have double taped every other stud, you will screw your drywall only into the taped studs. This will not only give you the isolation of the wood or steel structure from the outer wallboard, but it will give you the same effect as staggered studs. This method can be employed on both sides of the studs and to the end facings of joists. You can even tape the joists above before installing a sub floor, which will help to isolate the sub floor from the joists and the ceiling below. If you are in the process of new construction or remodeling where you have removed all drywall, taping the studs and joists with the American Isolation tape is essential. If you are remodeling or under new construction, American Sound Isolation tape is an effective and economical way to give your drywall the isolation it needs from the wood structure. This isolation will help to give you some good soundproofing between bedroom walls for example and doesn't cost you an arm and a leg to install. There are many other uses for American Sound Isolation tape that I just couldn't fit into this article. Builders and contractors across the United States and Canada are now using American sound isolation tape as a low cost soundproofing alternative to the more costly foams and barriers. For more information on American sound isolation tape or other quality soundproofing products go to my blog at: http://massloadedvinyl.blogspot.com/ Thanks for reading and learning about American Sound Isolation tape. This is Dr. Bob...Out!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O. Soundproofing America, Inc. Senior Technical Director Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079 E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.

Soundproofing your basement

In today's world, basements are no longer simply places to store things like a glorified garage. With the price of housing ever on the rise, many people are converting their basements into rental spaces where they can make a little extra income each month. There are also a lot of folks who want to create a refuge space for reading or meditation or even a home theater in their basements. In this article I am going to talk about soundproofing your basement from the tenants below or from the noise transmitted by a home theater. The first order of business is to talk about the ceiling. Many times pipes and conduits as well as electrical and cable lines run between the joist cavities in a basement ceiling. A lot of people feel that need to have access to these components, but in order to achieve great soundproofing, there devices need to be sealed up by constructing a sealed drywall ceiling below. If you are concerned about the plumbing and wiring, have a professional come in before your drywall in your new ceiling. Remember that 90% of your plumbing and wiring is behind drywall and if there are problems with them then naturally the drywall will need to be removed. My point here is that if the plumbing and wiring has been inspected and given a clean bill of health, then go ahead and seal up the ceiling below. Generally most basement areas have low ceilings which prevents us from installing a fully floated ceiling, however there is always room for materials like mass loaded vinyl that can be stapled or nailed directly to the bottom of the joists like a membrane. You will caulk all of the seams as well as around the entire perimeter of the MLV using a good quality acoustical caulk, stay away from cheap silicone caulks, they do not work as well. Once the MLV membrane is caulked and sealed properly, it is advised that you also tape the seams with a lead tape or a mass loaded vinyl sealer tape. You will tape directly over the dried caulk. Now it is time for a layer of drywall. I would recommend a layer of 5/8" fire code drywall. This application will stop most of the airborne sound transmission and some of the impact noise from above, but the best way to alleviate the majority of the footfall or impact noise is to float your ceiling using sound clips and metal furring channels. I will talk more bout them in subsequent articles. There is one other method for soundproofing a basement ceiling that I will briefly discuss. Instead of using the mass loaded vinyl, consider installing 2 layers of sheetrock with a layer of Green Glue applied between the 2 layers. Here's how it works. First you make sure you have your batt insulation in place between the joist cavities, this is only necessary if your need the thermal protection of the insulation. Next you would screw in a layer of 5/8" drywall. Always screw in your drywall; never nail it in especially in a ceiling application. Then you will lay out your second layer of 5/8" drywall on saw horses, but on this layer you will apply 3 tubes of a product called Green Glue top the backside of the drywall. Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that is used to deaden or dampen the existing drywall and the newer layer that is being installed. You could apply only 2 tubes of Green Glue per 4' X 8' sheet of drywall, however using 3 tubes per sheet of drywall is much better for soundproofing. Once you have applied the Green Glue to the backside of the second layer of drywall, you will simply screw in the second layer directly over top of the first layer. A little hint here is to screw the second layer of drywall down as tightly as possible without pulling the screw through the drywall, this will insure the best dampening possible of both pieces of drywall. After that second layer of drywall and Green Glue are installed, you will simply tape mud and texture the ceiling as you would a normal ceiling. Well, that's all there is to soundproofing a basement ceiling. For more information about soundproofing a ceiling, walls or floors, read my subsequent articles or simply call a reputable soundproofing company, they will be glad to help you. Until next time, this is Dr. Bob...Out!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O. Soundproofing America, Inc. Senior Technical Director Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079 E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica

Green Glue instead of fiberglass insulation for soundproofing

Old School soundproofing still believes that batt insulation is a good soundproofing agent. There are some good sound batt insulations out there such as Roxul AFB and Bonded logic's bonded cotton insulation and they work well for both soundproofing and thermal protection, however no batt insulation is strong enough to stand alone as the sole soundproofing material in a wall ceiling or floor assembly. If you can afford a good batt insulation I always encourage it, but if you are soundproofing as ceiling and are not really concerned about the thermal aspects of the ceiling then I feel adding drywall pieces cut to fit perfectly into the joist cavities and screwed to the sub floor above would be much more effective than any batt insulation. Now to super charge this application I recommend that before you screw the pieces of drywall to the sub floor you apply Green Glue sound dampening compound to the back of the drywall pieces prior to screwing them to the bottom of the sub floor. Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that is taking the soundproofing industry by storm. It comes in caulk tubes and is applied using a large quart size caulk gun. Basically you would cut the pieces of drywall to fit snuggly between the joist cavities. You would the liberally apply the Green Glue to the backside of the cut drywall and then screw it to the bottom of the sub floor. The Green Glue will be sandwiched between the drywall and the bottom of the sub floor. The tighter you screw the drywall down, the better the soundproofing will be. In essence, the pieces of drywall sporting the Green Glue in their backsides with become a most effective sound dampening system that will dampen the impact noise from above long before it is able to be transmitted into the joists and ultimately into the ceiling below. Now, is more better in this case? Absolutely, if you are able to double or triple the Green Glued layer of drywall you will indeed increase the dampening ability of the drywall and the sub floor and add greatly to the soundproofing endeavor. Once you have installed your layers of Green Glued drywall pieces into the joist cavities, now would be a good time to install your sound or thermal batt insulation. Now for our finished drywall ceiling, I recommend that we spend the money for 2 layers of 5/8" drywall. You will screw in your first layer of drywall directly to the ceiling joists. Now your second layer will be installed directly over top of the first layer however, you guessed it, I recommend that you apply 3 tubes of Green Glue to each 4' X 8' sheet of drywall that you put up. Once you have finished with the double drywall using the Green Glue, you should immediately detect a lack of annoying noise coming from the people above. You have soundproofed your ceiling and your neighbors don't even have a clue that there was a problem there. How awesome is that? Read more about Green Glue and soundproofing walls, ceilings and floors in subsequent articles, for now this is Dr. Bob....Out!!!

Dr. Bob O. Soundproofing America, Inc. Senior Technical Director Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079 E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com Website: http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Soundproofing a Ceiling with Green Glue

If you have done any research on how to soundproof a ceiling from impact noise (footfall) as well as airborne noise, you have most likely discovered that a floated ceiling using sound clips and furring channels is the best way to combat these noises from above. In essence floating a ceiling on the sound clips and furring channels will offer you the best impact protection provided you add a layer of mass loaded vinyl directly to the open joists. This method of soundproofing is quite effective, yet it can be very costly to install and there is a great margin for error when floating a ceiling. There is another method of soundproofing a ceiling from impact noise as well as airborne sound that is not quite as effective as the sound clip system, but it will offer you a cost effective solution to this problem by reducing the noise to a tolerable level.

The system I am describing is the "Green Glue" system. Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that when applied between 2 rigid hard surfaces, such as drywall, MDF or OSB and will act to dampen or change the resonant frequency of the wall board. A quick analogy is to visualize you ceiling as being a drum head, if the drywall ceiling has no been treated with the Green Glue the sound will resonate much like the sound of beating a drum head. Now if you add the Green glue to the equation you have in essence placed a finger onto the middle of the drumhead and completely stopped the resonance of the drum. This is precisely how Green Glue works in a ceiling application. Acoustical Consultants and others in the field have long known that in order to achieve the best soundproofing, you need to deaden or dampen the structure above as well as the drywall. Green Glue does exactly that; it deadens the existing drywall as well as the new drywall with the Green glue applied that you screwed into the existing drywall ceiling.

Will Green glue get rid of all the impact noise from above? Probably not, but will it make your life more tolerable? You bet it will. Green Glue is an economical and effective way to soundproof your walls, floors and ceilings from both airborne and Impact noise from the people living above you. Green Glue is effective in most condo and co-op situations and works remarkably well in lofts as well. When you're at your wits end and need to soundproof right now, Green Glue is the fast and effective soundproofing answer. For more in depth information about soundproofing your ceiling with Green Glue, go to www.greengluecompany.com and read the many testimonials on this product and see the test that were performed with Green Glue against Mass loaded vinyl, lead sheeting, Quiet Rock? and Quiet Glue?. Green Glue out performs these and many other soundproofing agents hands down. Many companies such as Soundproofing America and Sound Isolation Company offer quality discounts and contractor pricing on the Green Glue. Thanks for reading. Dr. Bob.... out!

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

You can read more http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

Baby Proofing Basics

One of the first things that goes through a new parent's head is the need for safety. Baby proofing your home is a major concern - and rightfully so. Many accidents that happen in the home can be prevented with a few safety precautions.

Before you spend a penny on baby proofing accessories, take an inventory throughout your home to look for trouble spots. Some examples of baby dangers are chemicals, open toilets, bathtub faucets, sharp edges on tables and other furniture, staircases, unprotected electrical outlets, heavy furniture such as bookcases and entertainment centers that could fall on baby, window blind cords, electrical appliances, sharp utensils, doors that lock on the inside, and choking hazards.

As you're going through your home making a baby-proofing inventory, make sure that you don't stay on your feet. Don't forget to get on your hands and knees and get a baby's eye level view of your home.

When you look at the above list, you may begin to feel overwhelmed - but don't panic! Baby proofing doesn't have to be done all in one day - especially if you start early in your pregnancy and baby's life.

You should begin thinking about baby proofing as soon as you decide to become a parent. However, even after your baby is born you have a little time to get the job done. At first your baby won't be able to move around the house at will and this gives you time to get your baby proofing done if you haven't already completed it. Certainly before your baby is crawling, you should have your baby proofing completed.

Many parents work hard at baby proofing their home, but don't take care of the hidden choking hazards that are lurking. An easy test to determine whether or not an object is a choking hazard is to see if it will fit through the hole in a toilet paper roll.

If an object can easily slide through, it can easily be picked up by small hands and put in the mouth. Make sure that you don't make a baby-proofing mistake by overlooking common objects in your home that could spell big danger.

Once you know what areas of your home need baby proofing, you can make some simple modifications to improve safety. Childproof latches, socket covers, and simply picking up dangerous objects can help make your home safer for your baby and improve your peace of mind.

Olga is a co-publisher of Baby Care Guide designed to Unlock your Inner Mother Code. Parenting manual that mother nature should have included with your new baby and contributing author to Baby Formula Advisor portal

Your Soundproofing Solution

Moving to a new home, installing a home theater, having a new baby, getting new neighbors, or just growing weary of the everyday noise are all reasons that cause people to want to consider soundproofing. Another common soundproofing complaint is footstep noise from rooms above. ?I can hear my neighbors walking and sliding their chairs.? In a world where hard surfaced floors are increasingly popular, this problem is becoming increasingly important, and quality strategies and solutions are needed.

Acoustical Solutions, Inc. of Richmond, Virginia, who has been offering sound barriers, sound absorption and sound isolation products for twenty years, is now proud to introduce Green Glue. Green Glue is a liquid, waterborne, sound damping compound, which represents the highest performance product of its type. It is used in between sheets of drywall, subflooring or other building materials. It is significantly lower in applied cost than competitive products, with an excellent cost/performance ratio. It is also remarkably tolerant to real-world application conditions and carries almost none of the burden of precision required by many soundproofing systems.

The best application for green glue is between sheets of drywall, OSB or Plywood over the main part of a wall, floor or other structure. Green Glue will not be effective as a paint or coating. Green Glue is non-toxic with no mixing required. For walls, floors and ceilings, this product drastically reduces impact and airborne noise. It can also be used in commercial environments, new construction or remodeling of an existing space as well as home theaters, and recording studios.

Sound damping is a very straightforward concept. Simply put, sound damping is the rate at which something dissipates energy. In a constrained layer damping system, sometimes referred to as CLD, a damping material is sandwiched between two other (usually stiff/rigid) materials. For example, Green Glue sandwiched between two layers of drywall. Sound damping occurs when the viscoelastic center of the "sandwich" is sheared. The shearing pulls and stretches on the sound damping material. Under these conditions, the unique polymeric construction of Green Glue very efficiently converts this mechanical energy to heat. The vibration energy is not isolated; it's dissipated and removed.

Green Glue comes in 29 oz. tubes. You can use any quart size caulk gun, available at most hardware and building material stores. It is very fast and easy to apply. No special skills whatsoever are required. Recommended application is two tubes of Green Glue per 4' x 8' area or two tubes per standard sheet of drywall. If you are not on a budget, utilizing three tubes per sheet will improve performance. Each case of Green Glue covers about 192 square feet, or 128 square feet if used at the three tubes coverage rate. Do not use more than three tubes per 4' x 8' sheet, as performance will actually decline above three tubes per sheet.

Dave Ingersoll Acoustical Solutions 800 782-5742 info@acousticalsolutions.com

Batt Insulations, are they a sound investment in Soundproofing?

"Which batt type insulation will give me the best soundproofing?" I hear this question a lot, or better still, "Do I need to add more soundproofing if I already have insulation in the walls and ceilings?" Keep in mind that any batt type insulation, though it may be a great thermal insulator, is generally not very good as a soundproofing agent. If batt insulations such as fiberglass insulation or Icynene were effective soundproofing products, the big boys like Johns Manville ? and Owens Corning ? would take over the soundproofing industry and leave the real professionals out in the cold. Luckily knowledge is still power and it will be a while before all the soundproofing companies are put out of business.

If you are serious about soundproofing always consider batt insulations as the proverbial "icing on the cake". They simply don't have the horsepower to be stand alone soundproofing agents such as lead, closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl. There are some good sound batt insulations on the market today, one is Roxul AFB? (acoustic fire batt). Roxul? is a rock wool that is made up of mining slag Canada that is hit with high pressure air thus giving it the properties of a very dense fiberglass insulation and while it will provide the end user with an R-13 for the 3 ?" variety and an R-19 for the 5 ?" batts, it's main function in life is to provide superb sound absorption and structural dampening of wall and joist cavities. It is a know fact that damping a structure; especially a wooden structure helps to control the transmission and vibration of sound through said structure.

Bonded Logic?, a company in Arizona also provides a cotton sound batt insulation that is great for filling voids and cavities where sound control is essential. The cotton is an inert material that absorbs sound but does not transmit through its fibers like fiberglass insulation does.

Fiberglass insulation is one of the worst for soundproofing agents out these. It actually transmits sound through its very fibers thus causing the annoying noise to appear amplified. If you are forced to use fiberglass insulation make sure it is isolated from either the sub floor or the ceiling below. Never pack fiberglass into cavities or voids. By isolation the fiberglass insulation from the sub floor above or the ceiling below you will break the sound transmission circuit from the floor above to the ceiling below. The same applies to walls, if the fiberglass insulation is touching one side of your drywall, make certain that it does not come in contact with the other side of the drywall. This makes perfect sense once you know the nature of fiberglass insulation.

To sum this up, never count on any batt type insulation to be your stand-alone soundproofing agent. You will always need the horsepower of lead, mass loaded vinyl, closed cell foam, or of course my favorite, Green Glue?. You can read about these great soundproofing agents in subsequent articles throughout the Internet. For now, this is Dr. Bob, The Green Glue King, signing off and may all of your soundproofing journeys be smooth ones.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

You can read more articles on soundproofing on our blog

"Which batt type insulation will give me the best soundproofing?" I hear this question a lot, or better still, "Do I need to add more soundproofing if I already have insulation in the walls and ceilings?" Keep in mind that any batt type insulation, though it may be a great thermal insulator, is generally not very good as a soundproofing agent

Green Glue instead of insulation for soundproofing

Old School soundproofing still believes that batt insulation is a good soundproofing agent. There are some good sound batt insulations out there such as Roxul AFB and Bonded logic's bonded cotton insulation and they work well for both soundproofing and thermal protection, however no batt insulation is strong enough to stand alone as the sole soundproofing material in a wall ceiling or floor assembly.

If you can afford a good batt insulation I always encourage it, but if you are soundproofing as ceiling and are not really concerned about the thermal aspects of the ceiling then I feel adding drywall pieces cut to fit perfectly into the joist cavities and screwed to the sub floor above would be much more effective than any batt insulation. Now to super charge this application I recommend that before you screw the pieces of drywall to the sub floor you apply Green Glue sound dampening compound to the back of the drywall pieces prior to screwing them to the bottom of the sub floor.

Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that is taking the soundproofing industry by storm. It comes in caulk tubes and is applied using a large quart size caulk gun. Basically you would cut the pieces of drywall to fit snuggly between the joist cavities. You would the liberally apply the Green Glue to the backside of the cut drywall and then screw it to the bottom of the sub floor. The Green Glue will be sandwiched between the drywall and the bottom of the sub floor. The tighter you screw the drywall down, the better the soundproofing will be. In essence, the pieces of drywall sporting the Green Glue in their backsides with become a most effective sound dampening system that will dampen the impact noise from above long before it is able to be transmitted into the joists and ultimately into the ceiling below. Now, is more better in this case? Absolutely, if you are able to double or triple the Green Glued layer of drywall you will indeed increase the dampening ability of the drywall and the sub floor and add greatly to the soundproofing endeavor.

Once you have installed your layers of Green Glued drywall pieces into the joist cavities, now would be a good time to install your sound or thermal batt insulation. Now for our finished drywall ceiling, I recommend that we spend the money for 2 layers of 5/8" drywall. You will screw in your first layer of drywall directly to the ceiling joists. Now your second layer will be installed directly over top of the first layer however, you guessed it, I recommend that you apply 3 tubes of Green Glue to each 4' X 8' sheet of drywall that you put up. Once you have finished with the double drywall using the Green Glue, you should immediately detect a lack of annoying noise coming from the people above. You have soundproofed your ceiling and your neighbors don't even have a clue that there was a problem there. How awesome is that? Read more about Green Glue and soundproofing walls, ceilings and floors in subsequent articles, for now this is Dr. Bob....Out!!!

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

You can read more articles on soundproofing on our blog

Old School soundproofing still believes that batt insulation is a good soundproofing agent. There are some good sound batt insulations out there such as Roxul AFB and Bonded logic's bonded cotton insulation and they work well for both soundproofing and thermal protection, however no batt insulation is strong enough to stand alone as the sole soundproofing material in a wall ceiling or floor assembly

Home Building - Roofing

The type of roofing material you choose for your new home will depend on the style of your home, your budget, your location and the makeup of the roofing material. With so many materials being manufactured these days there are many options to choose from to create a top that is not only visually astounding, but can weather the elements. In most cases, it is best to pick your basic style and color and then focus on the technical requirements and cost for installing the material.

Choosing a Roofing System

When you begin to choose your roofing system you'll need to consider several factors like the style, color, material, weight and cost. Here's some helpful information to get you started.
The style of the roof on a house used to be dictated by where you lived. In the Northeast it was slate, the South was wood shingles or metal, the West was wood shingles and shakes and Southwest was tile. This has all changed with the introduction of asphalt shingles, which can imitate the look and appearance of traditional roofing material at a much lower cost. It is estimated that 70% of new homes are being built using some kind of asphalt shingle. Whatever style you choose it should not only match the style of your home, but other homes in your neighborhood. Some style points are: slated roofs work best with brick houses, wood exteriors tend to look nice with a wood shingle or shake or a slate look and clay or concrete tile really top of a stucco house.

Color
There are many different colors to choose from because manufacturers are now able to imitate most colors and shades. Slate and wood tend to only come in their natural form and color. Choosing a color is usually determined by what would work best with the style of your home and what color siding or exterior color you are striving for. The color of your roof can also affect energy efficiency. Lighter colors will tend to reflect sunlight, which can be helpful in warmer climates, where darker roofs may be more beneficial in colder areas due to heat absorption.

Material
The roofing material you use can be influenced by local building codes. In general, most areas require that the roof material you use meet local fire ratings. The most flammable material is wood shingles and shakes, which are now required to be pressure treated with a fire retardant. Some neighborhoods have restrictions that only certain types or styles of roofs may be built, such as requiring that only wood shingle or shake roofs be constructed. This is usually in neighborhoods that have been classified as historic areas.

Weight

The weight of the roofing material you choose is important to know, since it may not be suitable for the roof framing you've had built. The weight can range from 250 lbs.. per 100 square feet for asphalt shingles to 2,000 lbs.. for slate. Anything over 600 lbs.. per 100 square feet will require you to strengthen your standard roof framing.

Cost
Cost can be a major factor in what type of roofing material you use. Asphalt shingles are the least expensive with material costs around $25 to $30 per 100 square feet compared to slate which can run in upwards of $500. You might want to weigh the cost of each material versus life span. For example, you'd be lucky to get 20 years out of a cheap asphalt shingle, but a good slate roof could easily last over a hundred years. Once you've selected a material, don't cut corners when it comes to picking a roofer. The material won't matter if the roof isn't properly installed.


Types of Roofing Material

Asphalt Shingles $50 to $150 per square (10 x 10 area = 100 square feet = 1 square) Life span: 12 to 25 years.

Asphalt shingles are the most popular material for steep-slope roofs and can be reinforced with organic or fiberglass materials. Although asphalt shingles reinforced with organic felts have been around much longer, fiberglass-reinforced products (called composition shingles) now dominate the market. Like most other roofing materials its fire resistance is categorized by Class A (most fire-resistant), B or C. Most fiberglass shingles have Class A fire ratings, and most organic shingles have Class C ratings. These shingles offer great style, color and versatility and even come in laminated grades that offer a textured appearance. If algae is a concern, you can have zinc or copper-coated ceramic granules applied to the shingles to resist an algae attack.

Wood shingles and shakes $100 to $165 per square (10 x 10 area = 100 square feet = 1 square) Life span: 25 to 75 years.

Wood shingles and shakes are made from cedar (the more expensive wood), redwood, southern pine and other woods. Wood shingles are machine sawn; shakes are handmade and rougher looking. Since most wood shingles and shakes only have Class C fire ratings or no ratings at all, you'll want to find out what your local building codes are before choosing wood. For an additional cost, you can find Class A wood shingle products from certain companies that apply a fire resistant treatment.

Clay tile $300 to $600 per square (10 x 10 area = 100 square feet = 1 square) Life span: 50 years.

Clay tile is very durable and comes in a variety of colors and finishes. Keep in mind it's a weighty material.

Slate $550 to $1000 per square (10 x 10 area = 100 square feet = 1 square) Life span: 50 to 100 years.

Slate is by far the most durable material you could choose and most expensive since its application requires special skills and experience. Your choice of color and grades depends greatly on where you buy it from.

Metal starts around $100 per square (10 x 10 area = 100 square feet = 1 square) but can run up to $600 for coated steels and copper. Life span: 20 to 50 years.

There are two types of metal roofing products: panels and shingles, which come in numerous shapes and configurations. Metal shingles typically simulate traditional roof coverings, such as wood shakes, shingles and tile. Aside from its longevity, metal shingles are much lighter than most materials and very resistance to adverse weather.

Fiber cement $500 per square (10 x 10 area = 100 square feet = 1 square) Life span: 20 to 30 years.

Fiber cement is durable and available in a variety of textures and colors. It's a good choice for homes that are near the ocean and must withstand salt air and wind and for homes in very hot, humid climates. The only drawback is it is very heavy and difficult to repair.

Concrete is now a roofing material. Shingles, simulated wood shakes, lightweight tiles and concrete panels are being manufactured from a variety of fiber-reinforced cement products. Some are coated with plastics, enamels, or thin metals, and some contain recycled material. The advantages of concrete roofing vary from product to product, but generally they all have a long life span, require low maintenance, offer good fire protection and are resistant to rot and insects. The drawback is the high cost, which varies from manufacturer.

The House Designers has picked the best selling, most popular floor plans direct from architects and designers

Basement Waterproofing - All You Need To Know!

You may not have already thought about waterproofing your basement. However, it might be a good idea to start thinking about it now. You may not find any problems during the hot summer months, but when the rainy season arrives, you will no doubt start to notice the problems an un-waterproofed basement can bring!

What is Basement Waterproofing and Why Should You Do It?

Basement Waterproofing is not usually needed in newer homes as they are generally pretty well waterproofed already. However, older homes, or homes that were built before the year 1970, tend to have a lot more problems due to the fact that construction in the old days was not as good as it is today!

However, it is not only the construction that could be at fault. Over the years, a water protection system of a house can break down and become less efficient. It is only natural that wear and tear happens over the years and that is why older houses are more at risk. This is when you will notice that your basement is quite wet. If you leave that wet problem alone, it will only become worse, so it is always better to get the problem fixed before a major problem arises.

Why exactly should you fix a wet basement problem? Well, at first the wet problem may just cause a slight odor that you may think is nothing really to worry about and generally it is it not. However, the problem then tends to progress into forming mildew and that quickly damages any furniture or other things that may be in the basement. A damp environment generally decays rather quickly!

Another thing to consider is that asthma sufferers will not be able to go into the affected damp room as it could cause breathing difficulties. Finally, a damp environment attracts pests, so you will not only have an extremely wet, smelly, damaged basement, but you will also have a pretty serious pest problem before long, too!

So it is always better to waterproof your basement and be sure that you eliminate any problems before they get too bad.

The Causes of Wet Basements and What Can Be Done About Them

It is only natural for foundations to leak over time, as no foundation stays waterproof forever. Houses move around over the years and that can cause various cracks and gaps that allow water to come in. Sooner or later, water does tend to find a way indoors and the basement is the first room to feel the effects!

So what are the different methods of basement waterproofing? Well the first thing that should be done, is to go around your basement and try to find any gaps or cracks that may be letting water in. If you find any, fill them in with a waterproof compound. You should be able to find something suitable in your local hardware store.

You can also waterproof the walls by using a waterproof mix, again, bought from a hardware store. However, be aware that the waterproof mixture will not work on painted walls, so any paint needs to be removed before the mixture is applied.

Overall, it all depends upon how bad the leak actually is and how much pressure it is applying to the wall to determine what protection it needs. You may need to call a professional to help you if your best efforts do not come to anything. Generally, though, if done early enough, waterproofing your basement should be fairly easy and it is always better to do it every couple of years in order to ensure that you prevent any further problems from occurring.

For more information on basement waterproofing here at my site Basement Waterproofing Information

Roofing Faq: Basic Roof Problems

* What are some of the typical causes of roof problems?

There are different types of roof problems, and it is best to be aware of them so you can avoid shortening the life span of the roof. Some typical roof problems are:

Not enough maintenance done. Failing to fix minor roof problems can lead to a bigger problems later on. Structural damage caused by any physical contact can also lead to more problems later on.

Climate and Weather. Extreme weather (hail, ice, snow, scorching heat) can expedite the deterioration of a roof. Strong winds can, of course, damage the roof as well.

Industrially polluted or salty air (as near the sea) and other atmospheric contaminants are also contributing factors.

Wrong design. A faulty design can lead to early problems. A weak or improperly attached roof can also collapse from weight.

Flashing problems. Flashings are used to make the roof watertight. Improper installation and weak flashing can make the roof leak and by the time it is discovered, water damage maybe extensive.

* How do I know if I need a new roof if I don't see any leaks?

Leaks are not the only reason for replacing a roof. Furthermore, if you wait until you begin seeing leaks, you may end up with more damage and a bigger problem than you had hoped. So, check your roof regularly for the following:

- Age of roof - Depending on the kind of roofing, a roof can last up to 20 years. If your roof is 15 years old, you should be watching for signs of needing repair.

- Missing or torn shingles - Damaged shingles expose the roof to water damage and rot. They also make it so that other shingles may be blown away in the wind. Old shingles may curl, split and lose their waterproofing effectiveness. These weakened shingles are more likely to be blown away by wind gusts.

- Rusted or missing flashing - Flashing is the metal that surrounds chimneys, skylights and vent pipes. It is also often found in the valleys of the roof where the roof sections meet. If it is rusted, damaged or missing, it could cause leaks.

- Gutters - Check gutters, downspouts and splash pans for damage or decay. Look for broken pieces of paint and scraps of roofing. This may be a sign that your roof needs some attention.

- Inside Walls - Watch for discolored plasterboard or cracked paint and peeling wallpaper indoors. This could be a sign of a leaky roof.

* What kind of preventive maintenance should I do for my roof?

Since roofs are constantly exposed to the elements, most roof damage results from weather and pollutants in the atmosphere. To save yourself big repair costs or even having to replace your roof before its time, you should perform a general inspection on your roof at least twice a year, checking for mildew, mold, rust, trapped water, and possible damage, and make minor repairs if necessary. That is the best preventive maintenance you can do.

Also, be sure to keep your roof clean. Remove any debris that may accumulate on it and clean out the roof gutters regularly. Also, repair any weather damage as soon as it occurs.

Rae Fakner is editor of Roofing FAQ, the online guide to Roofing. He also writes Roofing FAQ's for PrettyGreatAnswers.com

Solar Roofing Shingles

Find out how to generate power on the roof of your house with solar roofing shingles.

No matter where you?re located, the price of electricity, the available sunshine and incentives by local and state governments have made it very appealing to install solar roofing shingles on your home or business.

In the beginning, solar power from the roof was considered too expensive for most homeowners. The initial expense has been reduced and often your electrical company will pay you for any excess power generated by your solar roofing shingles.

Solar roofing shingles are shingles that look very much like ordinary shingles but they allow your roof to generate solar electric power. Solar roofing shingles install just like traditional asphalt singles. Once you hook them to your home?s electrical system, you?re generating solar power that can drastically reduce your electricity bill.

Solar roofing shingles don?t require any additional support structures. They can withstand the elements of weather just as normal shingles. Some will even handle up to 80 mph wind loads.

Solar Roofing Shingles

If you?re wonder how they look, they?re designed to be aesthetically pleasing and can be integrated into almost any architectural style. They won?t stick out and look like an intrusion on the roof of your home. It doesn?t matter whether you?re remodeling or doing a new construction, solar roofing shingles are available for your project.

Most solar roofing shingles are made for a twenty year power output and do come with warranties. They are lightweight and can be installed directly on fire-resistant roofing underlayment.

If you?re planning to use solar roofing shingles, be sure to check with your local and state governments. Many offer assistance and other types of incentives for those choosing to use and produce solar energy. Some tax credit may even be available.

While the cost of solar roofing shingles is still higher than traditional shingles, with the incentives and the reduction of your electric bill you should be able to re-coup your investment in a short period of time. It?s well worth the effort to harness the power of the sun by using solar roofing shingles.

This article was written by Gregg Hicks of http://www.reliableremodeler.com which provides Internet-based home improvement information and services. Offering homeowners a simple, quick, and free way to access, qualified home improvement remodeling contractors

Soundproofing your Wall

When soundproofing a wall, a lot depends on what sort of noise your were trying to block or absorb. For example, if you were trying to stop a neighbor's loud television noise from coming through the wall into your unit then you would use a barrier material to block the TV noise. Now if you were concerned about your loud music bothering a next-door neighbor, then both a barrier and a damping material would be in order. There are many different methods for soundproofing a wall from neighbors or just from common out-door sound such as aircraft or traffic noise.

If you are working with newly constructed walls that are only framed out and not yet dry walled, you would want to install a layer of sound batt insulation between the stud cavities. This insulation would be a mineral wool, a rock wool or cotton batt insulation and not common fiberglass batts. Once you have filled the cavities with the sound batt insulation you have a choice of products that will be the soundproofing horsepower, so to speak, for the wall. One of the best barrier materials on the market today is a product called American mass loaded vinylÔ. American mass loaded vinylÔ is a loaded vinyl mat that is impregnated with barium salts and silica to give it mass and allow it to emulate lead sheeting. The Mass loaded vinyl; MLV for short would be stapled or nailed directly to the studs. You'll caulk all of the seams as well as the entire perimeter with acoustical caulk. Acoustical caulk remains pliant throughout the life of the caulk and it also maintains the STC (sound transmission class) of the MLV at all of the seams as well as around the perimeter of the MLV. Once you have caulked the seams and the perimeter, you will then tape over the caulked seams with a seam sealer tape. This will insure a tight seal of the MLV membrane on the wall.

After the MLV is completely sealed, you will then drywall over top of the vinyl membrane with a layer of 5/8" drywall. This system is very effective at soundproofing a common wall between condo or apartment units.

There is another method for soundproofing a common between two units where the drywall is already installed and the owner does not want to remove the existing drywall. This method would require the use of a damping product called "Green GlueÔ" Green GlueÔ I a visco elastic damping compound that is applied between 2 layers of drywall or gypsum. You would apply the Green GlueÔ using a large quart size caulk gun. The minimum recommended amount is 2 of the 29 oz tubes per 4' X 8' sheet of drywall. You would lay out the drywall onto sawhorses and then apply the Green GlueÔ to the back side of the new drywall. Once the glue is applied, you would then screw the new drywall right over top of the existing wallboard whatever it may be. Two tubes per sheet of drywall is the minimum, but 3 tubes per sheet is much better. I suggest using 3 tubes of Green GlueÔ per sheet of drywall for all wall and ceiling applications.

These soundproofing techniques will work for home and commercial studios as well as home theaters and music practice areas. I truly hope this has helped you to understand the science behind soundproofing a wall in a apartment or condo setting.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/mass-loaded-vinyl.asp

You can read more articles on soundproofing on our blog http://massloadedvinyl.blogspot.com/

Soundproofing a wood or tile floor

I have been getting a lot of requests lately to write an article on soundproofing a wood or tile floor in an upper apartment or condo unit. The solutions are pretty simple if you're installing wall-to-wall carpeting, but things get a little more complicated when you're dealing with hardwoods, ceramic or vinyl flooring. To begin with, when a manufacturers STC (Sound Transmission Class) claims appear to be too high always read the fine print. Generally they mean that you can only reach this high STC value in conjunction with a myriad of other products that must to be added to your floor or ceiling assembly. For example, if you're looking at ?"cork as a floor underlayment and the manufacturer claims that it will give you 55-57 STC, keep in mind that this value will only be attained with at least 3 inches of gypcrete (light weight concrete) poured overtop of the existing sub-floor and most likely the addition of a couple of layers of cement board (Hardy or Wonder board) will be needed as well. All of the STC values of these products are additive and so the manufacturer makes his claim hoping you won't read the fine print.

Even though these values are additive, there is always the law of diminishing returns to contend with, so you still may not reach your STC goal even though it says you do on paper. Many times the call out for a floor or ceiling assembly is such that ceiling below must be floated on sound clips and furring channels or resilient channels in order to obtain the 55-57 STC values that some manufacturers claim to get from their product. Basically, no soundproofing product on it's own will give you a 55-57 STC value. If you find one that does, please let me know and I'll get it on the website immediately. There are no magic formulas. What it boils down to is simply this, very few products on the market today can give you an STC value greater than 32 to 35 STC on their own, and thus these high STC claims are very misleading to say the least.

I had a customer who told me that a 1/8" cork mat would give him an STC rating of 55- 57 when laid beneath carpet and pad. I smiled and had him show me the cut sheet (spec. sheet) for the cork. The sheet called for the addition of a poured gypcrete sub floor and numerous other items that I can't recall off hand, that were needed in order to meet the 55-57 STC. Needless to say, he was shocked. Its back to that old adage, if it sounds too good to be true, it is! That being said, the absolute best way to soundproof an upstairs unit from a lower one is by floating the ceiling in the lower unit using sound clips and furring channel (hat channel).

This is the most common method used by contractors who have done any type soundproofing in their careers. This method, though more economical than the sound clips system is only about ? as effective and is generally installed improperly even by the most competent of contractors. The difference in cost for the sound clips and furring channels is well worth it to effectively soundproof a ceiling from impact or airborne noise from above. Now there are other materials that can be placed over the sub floor above that will help stop impact noise as well as block most airborne noise from below or above. One is called American Impact Pro and the other is American Impact Standard. These recycled rubber products that are specifically designed to be installed underneath hardwood and tile floors. They will also work well under carpet and padded floors.

When dealing with a hardwood floor, you can also use a product called America's Best, which is a mass loaded vinyl that is bonded to a layer of ?" closed cell foam mat. This material will provide a certain amount of floor resilience that's prevents much of the impact noise from traveling downward, however the only way this system will work properly is if the wood planks are at least 6' in length, it is also preferred that planks be interlocking on the sides. Mass loaded vinyl with foam backing is a resilient product and will allow the new hardwood floor to actually flex when walked on. This resilience adds to the footfall protection to the ceiling below. Long planked wood floors are the only hard surfaced floors that will work with America's Best vinyl. Other floors such as vinyl or ceramic tile or Pergo floor systems will not work with this product as these surfaces will have a tendency to separate or crack.

Finally, if your condo or co-op association board has a call out for IIC (impact isolation coefficient) then you will need to call a professional to discuss the procedures you'll need to follow in order to meet that particular IIC call out. Impact isolation is a whole other chapter in the Soundproofing Bible and will have to wait until next time! Thanks for reading and learning about soundproofing a wood or tile floor.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/mass-loaded-vinyl.asp

You can read more articles on soundproofing on our blog http://massloadedvinyl.blogspot.com/

Soundproofing from loud upstairs neighbors in condo or apartment

One of the most common soundproofing questions I hear most is "How do I soundproof my condo or apartment from those noisy neighbors who live above?" Generally the most annoying noise is what is known as "foot fall" or "impact noise" Impact noise is noise that is caused by heavy walking on the floor of the neighbor above. It can also be caused by chairs dragging across a hardwood floor above or simply the impact of a fork or plate that is dropped on the floor above.

Impact noise is transmitted through the structural members of the floor/ceiling assembly and generally travels down through the floor joists and into the ceiling below at lightening speed. Impact noise is the most annoying noise you will ever have to deal in your condo or apartment. Sometimes it can actually feel like you neighbor is living in your unit. Sound familiar?

When dealing with impact noise, it is always best to completely remove the existing ceiling and start from scratch. This can be a real chore especially if your ceiling is plaster and not drywall. (For plaster ceiling consult local drywall contractor) Once the ceiling has been removed, it is then recommended that you fill the joist cavities with sound batt insulation such as rock wool, mineral wool, or cotton batt insulation. RoxulÔ and GreensoundÔ are common brand names for these batt materials. It is always best to completely fill the cavities with one of these materials, but if you don't have enough of these materials you can always fill the remainder of the cavity with common fiberglass insulation. Just make sure that the first layer of insulation (the layer against the sub floor above) is cotton, mineral wool, or rock wool.

Now that your joist cavities are filled, you will then want to "float your ceiling" on sound clips and furring channels. Float my ceiling? What are you talking about dude? I'm glad you asked; a floated ceiling is a ceiling that is connected to the ceiling joists using a device called a sound clip. Sound clips isolate the joists from the new drywall that will become your new ceiling. Here's how it works. You will screw the sound clips onto the bottom face of the joists and they will run parallel to the joists. The sound clips are then fitted with a metal furring channel also known as "hat channel" because it looks like a Dick Tracy hat if you look at it from the side. Furring channels come in 20 and 25 gauge steel, you can use either gauge with the AmericlipÔ sound clips. The furring channels will run perpendicular to the joists as they are fitted into the sound clips. Once you have all of your rows of sound clips and furring channel installed, you are ready to drywall. There is a trick to floating a ceiling and that is to make sure that your new ceiling drywall does not touch the adjoining walls and is completely independent of the ceiling joists.

You will screw in your new drywall using self-tapping drywall screws that will screw through the drywall and into the metal furring channels. Once you are finished screwing the drywall to the furring channels, you will make sure that you have maintained a ?" gap around the entire perimeter of the new ceiling. This gap will be filled in with acoustical caulk that is designed to remain pliant throughout the life of the caulk. Now that the new floated ceiling is installed and you have caulked in the ?" gap around the perimeter you'll then tape mud and paint the new ceiling as normal.

Now if you are looking for the ultimate in soundproofing from impact noise as well as airborne noise from above, it is recommended that you float 2 layers of 5/8" drywall on the sound clips and furring channel, and between the layers of drywall you will apply a product called "Green GlueÔ". Green GlueÔ is a visco elastic damping compound that when applied between 2 layers of drywall or any rigid wall board, acts to deaden both layers of wall board thus not allowing the drywall to resonate or transmit sound. When the sound is unable to pass through the drywall it dissipates rapidly and turns into heat energy.

To sum this up, the absolute best way to soundproof your ceiling from the noisy neighbors above is to float the ceiling using the Sound clips and furring channel, and then installing 2 layers of 5/8" drywall suspended from the sound clips and furring channels with Green Glue sandwiched between the 2 layers of drywall.

Now if space is an issue or money is a concern, you can get some great soundproofing and impact protection by simply adding another layer of 5/8" drywall to your existing ceiling, applying the Green GlueÔ to this new layer of drywall and then simply screwing the drywall over top of you existing drywall or plaster ceiling. This method will not be quite as effective as the complete floated ceiling system using Green GlueÔ, but if you are on a budget and need effective protection from the impact noise from above, Green GlueÔ is a great way to go.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site

Future Proofing: Why You May Need An Enduring Power Of Attorney

People can become unable to manage their own affairs at any stage of life. An accident, or the onset of mental illness, may make the everyday routines of buying and selling a house, paying bills, managing a budget and making financial decisions difficult and stressful, if not impossible. By completing an Enduring Power of Attorney (EPA) you can ensure that if this should ever happen, the person you choose to be your representative (your Attorney) will look after your affairs. Friends and family do not automatically have the right to take over. The EPA has been created to ensure that while you are of sound mind you can appoint someone you trust to look after your affairs.

What is an Enduring Power of Attorney?

An EPA is a legal document granting to a named person or people the authority to act on your behalf. Subject to certain important conditions and safeguards it continues in force until death, even if you become incapable of looking after yourself.

What happens if I don't have an EPA?

Without an EPA the Court of Protection will appoint a Receiver to act on your behalf. This process takes time and is expensive. With an EPA in place there would be no Court of Protection charges or solicitor's fees payable and no annual fees charged by the court. Minimal fees apply to register the EPA.

What safeguards are there?

When mental capacity is lost the EPA must be registered before the Attorney can legally act. You and your closest relatives will be informed allowing you to intervene with the registration should someone try to use the EPA illegally.

Am I in control of my affairs if I sign an EPA?

Yes. The EPA does not restrict your rights to go on looking after your own affairs for so long as you feel capable. The EPA simply means that there is someone to take over if, and when, you cannot cope.

An Enduring Power of Attorney can help you prepare for the future. Ask your financial planner about it today.

Find out more about EPAs and estate planning from Stephen Hall Associates

Sharon Hurley Hall is a freelance writer, ghostwriter and editor.To contact Sharon, visit http://www.doublehdesign.com/

Basement Waterproofing - All You Need To Know

You may not have already thought about waterproofing your basement. However, it might be a good idea to start thinking about it now. You may not find any problems during the hot summer months, but when the rainy season arrives, you will no doubt start to notice the problems an un-waterproofed basement can bring!

What is Basement Waterproofing and Why Should You Do It?

Basement Waterproofing is not usually needed in newer homes as they are generally pretty well waterproofed already. However, older homes, or homes that were built before the year 1970, tend to have a lot more problems due to the fact that construction in the old days was not as good as it is today!

However, it is not only the construction that could be at fault. Over the years, a water protection system of a house can break down and become less efficient. It is only natural that wear and tear happens over the years and that is why older houses are more at risk. This is when you will notice that your basement is quite wet. If you leave that wet problem alone, it will only become worse, so it is always better to get the problem fixed before a major problem arises.

Why exactly should you fix a wet basement problem? Well, at first the wet problem may just cause a slight odor that you may think is nothing really to worry about and generally it is it not. However, the problem then tends to progress into forming mildew and that quickly damages any furniture or other things that may be in the basement. A damp environment generally decays rather quickly!

Another thing to consider is that asthma sufferers will not be able to go into the affected damp room as it could cause breathing difficulties. Finally, a damp environment attracts pests, so you will not only have an extremely wet, smelly, damaged basement, but you will also have a pretty serious pest problem before long, too!

So it is always better to waterproof your basement and be sure that you eliminate any problems before they get too bad.

The Causes of Wet Basements and What Can Be Done About Them

It is only natural for foundations to leak over time, as no foundation stays waterproof forever. Houses move around over the years and that can cause various cracks and gaps that allow water to come in. Sooner or later, water does tend to find a way indoors and the basement is the first room to feel the effects!

So what are the different methods of basement waterproofing? Well the first thing that should be done, is to go around your basement and try to find any gaps or cracks that may be letting water in. If you find any, fill them in with a waterproof compound. You should be able to find something suitable in your local hardware store.

You can also waterproof the walls by using a waterproof mix, again, bought from a hardware store. However, be aware that the waterproof mixture will not work on painted walls, so any paint needs to be removed before the mixture is applied.

Overall, it all depends upon how bad the leak actually is and how much pressure it is applying to the wall to determine what protection it needs. You may need to call a professional to help you if your best efforts do not come to anything. Generally, though, if done early enough, waterproofing your basement should be fairly easy and it is always better to do it every couple of years in order to ensure that you prevent any further problems from occurring.

For more information on basement waterproofing here at my site Basement Waterproofing Info or you can get more information on Basement Waterproofing Products

Public Relations for Roofing Industry

Not all industries are easy to develop good public relations strategies for. As a case study let us consider the roofing industry and how difficult it is to develop a good public relations program for something that is above our heads but no one seems to consider. Of course people know when the roof leaks it is a very big deal and gets their attention right away.

Weather issues during the first rain of the season always have roofers very busy trying to fix things. In the roofing industry roofing manufacturers need to promote their products as long-lasting and environmentally friendly. These are two issues that concern most consumers, citizens and the general public. But how can you do a public relations strategy for the roofing industry, as it is something no one really talks about?

Well, many roofing industry specialists spend lots of money in writing articles to put in to trade journals and they spend lots of money on trade shows and seminars and CD-ROM training materials for all the contractors. Often roofing material industry manufacturers will put someone in building material retail outlets to talk with contractors one-on-one and assist them in using their product and explain how it works.

It is not easy to develop a strong public relations strategy in the roofing industry, but the trick is to get the public talking about it and hopefully before it rains. Please consider all this in 2006.

Lance Winslow, a retired entrepreneur, adventurer, modern day philosopher and perpetual tourist.

Your Roofing Options

There are lots of choices in what kind of roofing you want over your head.

What is it everyone cites as the basic requirement for living? "I'm just glad to have a roof over my head." Yet the matter is often taken for granted, with many homeowners paying little or no attention to the thing overhead that's keep them safe, warm and dry -- until it starts to leak, that is.

Then they notice.

There are dozens of materials commonly used in roofing, all of them functional as well as decorative. Indeed, most people choose their roofing material based on aesthetics or on what their local homeowners association mandates, rather than on what will function best.

Clay tiles (which are often made of concrete, not clay) are known for their durability, often lasting as long as 50 years. They are more expensive, though, which is a deal-breaker for many homebuilders.

A more basic roofing material is the asphalt shingle. They're not particularly attractive, but they do the job. They are particularly good in areas without much rainfall, such as the Southwestern U.S.

Also good in those areas are wood shake roofs, made of many individual pieces of wood that are affixed to the roof. These don't conduct heat as much as some other materials do, so summers are more bearable. (In colder areas, you might not want this kind of roof, as you might want something that WILL trap in heat.)

When roofing repairs need to be done, unless you have experience in that area, it's usually best to call in a professional. Roofing is notoriously backbreaking, arduous work, bad on the knees, back and shoulders. It's also harder to do it right than it may appear, and if your intent is to solve an existing problem, you're better off letting a pro do it and avoid the risk of making it worse by doing it yourself.

roofingshack.com is full of information on Roofing Shingles and Slate Roofing

Soundproofing a condo or apartment from upstairs neighbors.

How do I soundproof my condo or apartment from my noisy neighbors upstairs? This is by far the most asked question I hear on a daily basis. It is a question asked by prominent architects, engineers, major developers, and contractors. We are now finding that this is also of major concern of individual homeowners who rent part of their house to tenants. Many factors need to be considered when assessing an upstairs noise issue. The first question you should ask is simply this, is the problem impact noise, or airborne noise (TV's, Stereos, telephones etc.) coming down from above.

Nine times out of ten, impact noise is the main concern. What is impact noise? It is the noise caused by people or animals walking across the floor above (generally hardwood). This type of noise is considered to be structure borne noise and is one of the most difficult noises there is to soundproof from. Impact noise is basically sound that travels directly through the joisting structure from the floor above, directly into the hard mounted ceiling below. Another term for this is known as "foot fall "noise. Impact noise travels through the floor joists structure at speeds of over 1200 times greater than the transmission of sound traveling through ambient air. Keep in mind that most home joist systems as well as studded walls are generally 16 inches on center, so not only do you get the speed of the impact noise shooting downward, but the perfectly spaced joists act as tuning forks thus causing the sound to sustain (last longer) compounding the impact problem. The best and most effective way to stop impact noise from above is to isolate the joist structure and the floor above (which is generally hardwood) from the ceiling below. This can be accomplished in a variety of ways.

The most common is to float (suspend on acoustical sound clips or resilient channels) the ceiling using either resilient isolation clips and furring channels (hat channel) or the most common method of floating, RC-1 (resilient channel). The good, the bad, and the ugly of both these methods will be discussed in depth. First we have the industry standard, which is RC-1 or resilient channel. This is a flanged Z channel (generally with only one flange that attaches to the joist) and a larger flange to support the floated drywall ceiling. RC-1 can be purchased from a drywall supply company, or a contractors supply house.

The resilient channels are usually attached perpendicular to the joists and the rows are evenly spaced approximately 2' to 3' apart. The longer flange (of resilient channels) in a ceiling application will all face the same direction to obtain maximum resilience in the new ceiling assembly. Remember, that the longer flange is the one the drywall screws into. Always use screws when you drywall, never use nails. Once the RC-1 is properly installed across the entire ceiling, you are ready to drywall. The new drywall will be screwed directly through the drywall and into the resilient channel's (longer) 1" flange. You will use 1 to 1 ?" self-tapping drywall screws or in rare cases, sheet metal screws. If the resilient (floated ceiling) is installed as per manufacturers instructions, there will be approximately a ?" gap around the entire perimeter of the new floated ceiling. The floated ceiling must never make direct contact with the adjoining walls. This is NOT negotiable folks. The ?" gap is then filled with an acoustical caulking, (OSI 175 is a good caulk for this application) and then finally the new ceiling will be taped, mudded, and painted just like a like a hard attached joist mounted drywall installation.

The caulk is the interface between the resilient ceiling and the adjoining walls. There you have it, the common mans floated ceiling. Now if you are really serious about soundproofing your ceiling, you have the sound clip and furring channel method of floating. This installation is quite similar to the RC-1 installation, however, the sound clips system will more than double the soundproofing and impact isolation protection of a perfectly installed RC-1 system. Basically you will need one sound clip for every 4 sq ft of ceiling area. For example, if your ceiling is 400 sq. ft. total, you will need 100 sound clips to complete the installation.

Check with the manufacturers installations instructions for more detailed installation information. Once you have the sound clips screwed to the joists, you will then snap in the furring channel. We haven't talked much about metal furring channels or "hat" channel, as they are commonly called, so let me briefly describe this material. Furring channel, or hat channel is a galvanized steel channel that is 7/8" in height and measures 2 3/8" from flange to flange. When using furring channels in conjunction with sound clips, you always want to purchase the 25 gauge channels as opposed to the 20 gauge, which is too stiff for this application. The furring channel will be compressed by hand and will snap perfectly into the joist mounted sound clips. The channel rows will be spaced from 2' to 3' apart (check installation instructions).

The first row will begin about 4" from the adjoining wall and then each row will be spaced from 2' to 3' apart. Now comes the fun part! You will screw the new drywall directly into the furring channel, keeping the screw as close to the center of the hat channel as possible. If the drywall meets directly in the middle of a channel, make sure to stagger the screws down the length of the drywalls (alternate them one each side of the seam). Now, just like with the RC-1 installation, you must maintain a ?" gap around the perimeter of the newly floated ceiling assembly where the drywall does not touch the adjoining walls. Once again, this area will be sealed with the OSI-175 acoustical caulking material, and you will tape, mud, and paint the ceiling as usual. There you have it folks, professional sound isolation at a fraction of the cost that the "Big Boys" charge. A good analogy of the floated ceiling method is to visualize your ceiling as being like a trampoline. The new ceiling must not contact the adjoining walls and thus it is free to do its resilient thing exclusively. Keep in mind that the impact isolation is accomplished at the sound clip and joist connection where there is a thick neoprene rubber grommet on the clip that breaks the circuit between the sub floor above and the newly floated ceiling.

Lastly, if you are able to float 2 layers of drywall on the sound clips, it is recommended that you use Green Glue sound dampening compound between the 2 layers of drywall. I hope this article has been informative and gives you hope that you can indeed soundproof you apartment or condo from those stomping neighbors upstairs.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

You can read more http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/