Soundproofing a wood or tile floor

I have been getting a lot of requests lately to write an article on soundproofing a wood or tile floor in an upper apartment or condo unit. The solutions are pretty simple if you're installing wall-to-wall carpeting, but things get a little more complicated when you're dealing with hardwoods, ceramic or vinyl flooring. To begin with, when a manufacturers STC (Sound Transmission Class) claims appear to be too high always read the fine print. Generally they mean that you can only reach this high STC value in conjunction with a myriad of other products that must to be added to your floor or ceiling assembly. For example, if you're looking at ?"cork as a floor underlayment and the manufacturer claims that it will give you 55-57 STC, keep in mind that this value will only be attained with at least 3 inches of gypcrete (light weight concrete) poured overtop of the existing sub-floor and most likely the addition of a couple of layers of cement board (Hardy or Wonder board) will be needed as well. All of the STC values of these products are additive and so the manufacturer makes his claim hoping you won't read the fine print.

Even though these values are additive, there is always the law of diminishing returns to contend with, so you still may not reach your STC goal even though it says you do on paper. Many times the call out for a floor or ceiling assembly is such that ceiling below must be floated on sound clips and furring channels or resilient channels in order to obtain the 55-57 STC values that some manufacturers claim to get from their product. Basically, no soundproofing product on it's own will give you a 55-57 STC value. If you find one that does, please let me know and I'll get it on the website immediately. There are no magic formulas. What it boils down to is simply this, very few products on the market today can give you an STC value greater than 32 to 35 STC on their own, and thus these high STC claims are very misleading to say the least.

I had a customer who told me that a 1/8" cork mat would give him an STC rating of 55- 57 when laid beneath carpet and pad. I smiled and had him show me the cut sheet (spec. sheet) for the cork. The sheet called for the addition of a poured gypcrete sub floor and numerous other items that I can't recall off hand, that were needed in order to meet the 55-57 STC. Needless to say, he was shocked. Its back to that old adage, if it sounds too good to be true, it is! That being said, the absolute best way to soundproof an upstairs unit from a lower one is by floating the ceiling in the lower unit using sound clips and furring channel (hat channel).

This is the most common method used by contractors who have done any type soundproofing in their careers. This method, though more economical than the sound clips system is only about ? as effective and is generally installed improperly even by the most competent of contractors. The difference in cost for the sound clips and furring channels is well worth it to effectively soundproof a ceiling from impact or airborne noise from above. Now there are other materials that can be placed over the sub floor above that will help stop impact noise as well as block most airborne noise from below or above. One is called American Impact Pro and the other is American Impact Standard. These recycled rubber products that are specifically designed to be installed underneath hardwood and tile floors. They will also work well under carpet and padded floors.

When dealing with a hardwood floor, you can also use a product called America's Best, which is a mass loaded vinyl that is bonded to a layer of ?" closed cell foam mat. This material will provide a certain amount of floor resilience that's prevents much of the impact noise from traveling downward, however the only way this system will work properly is if the wood planks are at least 6' in length, it is also preferred that planks be interlocking on the sides. Mass loaded vinyl with foam backing is a resilient product and will allow the new hardwood floor to actually flex when walked on. This resilience adds to the footfall protection to the ceiling below. Long planked wood floors are the only hard surfaced floors that will work with America's Best vinyl. Other floors such as vinyl or ceramic tile or Pergo floor systems will not work with this product as these surfaces will have a tendency to separate or crack.

Finally, if your condo or co-op association board has a call out for IIC (impact isolation coefficient) then you will need to call a professional to discuss the procedures you'll need to follow in order to meet that particular IIC call out. Impact isolation is a whole other chapter in the Soundproofing Bible and will have to wait until next time! Thanks for reading and learning about soundproofing a wood or tile floor.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/mass-loaded-vinyl.asp

You can read more articles on soundproofing on our blog http://massloadedvinyl.blogspot.com/

FAQ About Roofing

Sun, wind, rain and hail have all had a chance to damage your roof and the time has come to think about re-roofing. How do you know if your roof is ready for re-roofing? Who will give you trustworthy advice? Where do you start? How many bids should you get? What part should you play during the construction process? What is fair to expect of a contractor? What are the permit and licensing laws in the State of Your State?

If these are questions you are asking yourself, you have come to the right place! The Roofing Contractors Association of Your State (RCAT) is an organization of professional roofing contractors dedicated to the practice, and teaching, of the skills needed to protect your building from the elements. We offer this guide as a sincere effort to help the customer and contractor arrive at a happy conclusion to a successful effort.

Are you ready for a re-roof?

After a hail storm has hit your area, it may or may not be obvious that you need a new roof. While some hail may produce leaks that appear immediately, quite often hail may only fracture your shingles, which leads to premature roof failure. An inspection by a professional roofing contractor can answer this question. If you have a roof that is fifteen years old or older and it starts to show signs of deterioration, or produces leaks, it is time to call your roofing professional for an inspection and consultation.

Choose a member of the

Roofing Contractors Association of Your State

The State of Your State has no licensing requirement in place for roofing contractors at this time (2000 - 2001). RCAT is a twenty-five year old organization that was founded with the expressed purpose of bettering the roofing profession through education and the pursuit of a quality product. By choosing a member of RCAT to be involved with your project, you are assured that you have a contractor who has had a successful track record in this field. To become a member, a contractor has to produce qualified references and be known to his competitors in the roofing community. What is a Certified Roofing Contractor?

In the absence of licensing laws in Your State, RCAT has developed a comprehensive testing program. These tests are strictly monitored and require thorough knowledge of commercial roofing, residential roofing, and business and contract law. Certified contractors are leaders in their field who are bringing a proven professionalism to your roofing or re-roofing project.

Certifications are:
CCRC
Certified Commercial Roofing Contractor
CC-RRC
Certified Commercial and Residential Roofing Contractor
CRRC
Certified Residential Roofing Contractor
These certifications are noted in our membership listings.
Getting the estimate

Choosing the right contractor is the most important step. Be sure that you obtain at least three written estimates. These estimates should all be based on the same type and quality of materials. Time needed to complete the project should also be included. Be sure to inquire how work will proceed and how trash will be handled so that you will know what to expect as the job proceeds. Understand the differences in your bids if there are variations. Donft automatically choose the lowest estimate!

Ask for a list of successfully completed projects in your area. Check references and inquire about quality of work performed. If possible, go look at the contractorfs work. Check with the BBB to see if any complaints are unresolved. Ask for written evidence of coverage from the contractorfs insurance carrier. Ask about warranties.

The contract

The agreement can be as simple as a signed proposal. It should have the contractorfs name, address, and phone number. All areas of work and materials to be used should be described. If it is verbally promised, it should be written down. On large jobs where monthly draws will be necessary, a standard AIA contract form, available at most business supply stores, could be a consideration. Whatever document you decide to use, your contractor should supply two copies that you both sign, one of which you should keep. Keep any receipts of money paid. Pay by check. With a regular sized house, it is considered usual for you to pay one third to one half of the cost of a job at the time that all materials are delivered onto your property. The balance due is then usually paid at the time of successful completion. This varies in different areas and with different contractors but should be worked out and written in your agreement. If you will be paying for this roofing in conjunction with a building loan or insurance claim, or if for any other reason there will be a deferred payment, this should be written down and agreed to by both parties. Warranties and guarantees of workmanship must be a written part of the contract. Obtaining a roofing permit

In many communities, a roofing permit is required. Check with your contractor or the permits department at your city hall to obtain information. Be sure it is understood who will obtain and post this permit.

During the job

You have followed your instincts and from the information presented, you have made your choice. You have his handshake, a written and signed proposal, a copy of his insurance, and you have gone over the scope of the work. You have done well; now let that roofer go to work. With proper pre-job paperwork and planning, you have helped to ensure that this upgrading of your buildingfs element protection is effective and long-lasting. It is not unreasonable to expect a daily report from your contractor, but the best thing to do now is have confidence in your choice. If your contractor is a member of the Roofing Contractors Association of Your State, he is pledged to your satisfaction.

Being aware that most roofing applications cannot be worked on during rainy weather. You should expect that the number of working days need be increased by the number of rain days experienced. As long as weather is factored in, you should be able to monitor the work from a bit of a distance. If things are on track, let them work. If you are unsure of any part of the progress it is best to contact the person who contracted with you. Donft try to run the crew; let their boss do that.

DO NOT use a contractorfs ladder to go up onto the roof. Good safety practice and insurance regulations prohibit it.

Final payment

At the time of final payment, all work should be done, grounds cleaned, warranties dated and signed. Get a receipt for all payments. If you keep these receipts and warranties, they can come in handy in the case of severe weather damage in the future.

If you are pleased with your contractorfs work, let him know that this is a job well done. These folks work mighty hard for you out in the hot Your State sun, they can use an "Attaboy."

Remember to...

Verify the name, address, telephone number, and references of your roofing contractor. Ask if he is a member of the Roofing Contractors Association of Your State. Make sure that he is insured.

Obtain at least three bids, and get a feel for the work and materials offered. Check zoning and permit laws in your community.

Make sure that all agreements are written and signed and you have a copy. Don sign any agreement that you don fully understand or agree with.

Once you have selected a contractor, give him the access he needs to get the job done. Final payment should be made when all work is complete. Donft pay cash in advance to a salesperson or contractor.

BEWARE of...
Contractor whose references are all out of state.
Contractor who wants money before materials are on site.
Contractor who is not an established member of the community.

Essentials Of Metal Roofing And Metal Roofing Siding

There are literally many things that comprises of your metal roofing. They can give you a good and lasting protection against weathering. These days, metal roofing is gaining popularity once again.

Most roofing panels have its siding; there are the ones that are installed on the sides of your house. They are essentially almost made from the same materials that you choose for your roofing but there can be other materials used if you prefer other types.

Metal roofing siding is the part where the roof is exposed. They need to be closed to make the roof fuller and protected. If you want to invest on good roofing, the siding will also come in consideration as they are of the same material.

Commonly, only a few types of roofing are available that you might want to choose from. Here are some of their quick features and disadvantages:

1. As with siding components, one of the most common metal roofing materials is steel. They are prone to corrosion and rusting. However, that can be remedied with a nice coating of zinc. Additionally, you can also seal it to preserve its natural look. There is also stainless steel. They are a little expensive but share the same characteristics as plain steel.

2. There is also aluminum. They are often found on other lightweight materials in your home as well. They are light enough to handle and will never rust but a nice treatment will extend its nice looks.

3. Copper is also used for metal roofing. This is the metal for people with quite a lot of budget to spare because they are very expensive. Being the softest roofing material, they can be easily bended to gain more customization options for your metal roof siding needs. This has a nice red appearance but it will soon wear out in a couple of years. Consider buying copper roofing that is already treated to let their nice sheen last longer.

Many stores have them. Usually the steel types are the ones you can easily spot. However, if you really want to customize your roofing, consider looking for them online. It would make your project planning easier as they can delivery it right to your home and you don't even need to go anywhere but your desktop.

For tips on using metal roofing, visit http://www.metalroofing101.com