Everything Your Need To Know About Basement Waterproofing

Waterproofing your basement is an essential project to take on in order to avoid some very serious and costly problems later on down the road. During the hot summer months you will typically not have many problems with regards to your basement being wet, but when the rainy season arrives you will definitely start to notice areas that need improvement. Perhaps you may experience a flooded basement floor or maybe some heavy condensation build-up.

If you are living a newly build home, the chances of you having serious basement waterproofing problems are slim to nothing. Newer homes are usually pretty well waterproofed. It?s the older homes that you need to worry about. Anything built before the year 1970 will need to be inspected for poor waterproofing. In the past, the construction of homes was not as good as it is today, which is why there tends to be more problems with older homes.

Aside from poor construction, other issue may lead to waterproofing issues. For instance, through out time you may have a water protection system start to break down. As this system becomes less and less efficient, you will start to have problems with excess water entering into your home. Your basement will be the first place to start showing signs of wetness. Whatever you do, don?t ignore this problem. The problem will only become worse if you neglect it.

It is extremely important to fix a wet basement problem. In the beginning stages of a wet basement problem, you will start to smell an unpleasant odor. Some people ignore this odor until the problems becomes worse. As the problem begins to progress, it will start to form mildew. The mildew will continue to spread and start damaging furniture in your basement and other important items. Furthermore, mildew leads to pests and breathing difficulties if you are exposed to it for long periods of time. For these reasons, it is better to waterproof your basement before it causes serious damage to your house and to those that live in it.

Bottom line, if you notice a leak in your basement, or any other form of water damage, it is recommended that you have your basement inspected by a professional as soon as possible. The amount of waterproofing needed will depend upon how large the leak actually is and the amount of pressure that is being applying to the wall. If the problem is detected early enough then your waterproofing project should be rather simple and cost effective.

For more information regarding waterproofing basements, and to get a free estimate on basement waterproofing from a prescreened contractor visit www.WaterproofingKey.com

Building and Soundproofing a Home Recording Studio

"How do I soundproof my garage, basement, or a bedroom in my single family house or condo so my 4 piece rock band can practice and record and not bother the neighbors?"

If I had a dollar for every time I was asked this question, I would be in the Bahamas right now, instead of writing this article. Many factors need to be considered prior to beginning your studio or practice room-soundproofing project. Some of the questions you should be asking yourself are: What type of amplification will the band be using, are the drums going to be acoustic and miked or are they digital. Are you going to be recording live late at night or are we going to be doing "line in" recording only? These questions and many more need to be considered before the actual construction begins. If live recording and rehearsal are the plan, then maximum soundproofing will be needed. The most effective way to soundproof a garage, basement, or bedroom is to actually construct a room within a room (go to www.auralex.com) and download the free booklet "Acoustics 101", this is a wonderful resource for the home studio builder.

Their ideas are solid and applicable to any studio-soundproofing project. The room within a room concept utilizes the sealed dead air space that is captured between the inner walls and the outer walls to help greatly with the soundproofing endeavor. It is probably easiest to frame the walls on the floor and then tilt them up into place thus making dry walling the outside of the walls much easier. It is also highly recommended that another ceiling be joisted out for the room within a room, however, this is often times not possible due to space constraints.

In this case, the existing ceiling and ceiling joists may be used as the ultimate ceiling for the studio, provided that it is adequately soundproofed with materials such as the mass loaded vinyl or a combination of closed cell foam mat and MLV. I will elaborate on these materials, as we get further into this article. Once the walls are framed out and the right amount of "Dead air space" is determined, then it is time to install the soundproofing. The first order of business is to consider what needs to be done to the wall cavities prior to installing a barrier and finally the wallboard. I like to line the inside cavities with a closed cell vinyl nitrile foam mat such as American Mat. This mat (generally 1/4" thickness) is adhered to the inside cavity walls as well as the studs and joists using a contact cement to adhere the mat. Keep in mind that the American Mat is used to line the cavities only, not to fill the cavity. If thermal insulation is needed, use products such as rock wool, mineral wool, cut wool fibers, or my favorite, Roxul. Roxul is a great thermal rock wool based batt type insulation that has great soundproofing qualities. If thermal insulation is a requirement for the practice room or studio, then Roxul is the way to go.

Now we come to a crossroads, it is time to determine if decoupling the walls using resilient channels or American Sound clips is a necessity. De coupling is used when impact transmission or low frequency noise is a factor. Impact would come primarily from the drums (acoustic type) or the bass amplifier. However, if the band is using Marshall high powered amps (50 watt amps with 4 X 12 cabinets for example) along with miked acoustic drums and an Ampeg bass system, then decoupling will most likely be necessary. These methods and procedures will be explained in later articles. If decoupling were determined to be unnecessary, then the next step would be to find a good barrier material such as American mass loaded vinyl (which is a high grade mass loaded vinyl barrier). This barrier could be stapled directly to the studwork on a wall assembly or directly to the joists. This is a method that is used if cost or space constraints are factors. If the barrier material is to be stapled directly to the stud or joist framing then it is best that the seams be over lapped, caulked (using OSI acoustical caulking compound) and then taped with either a lead tape or a heavy-duty PVC seam tape.

Once the Mass Loaded vinyl (MLV) is installed and sealed, it is time to install the final layer of drywall. I always recommend using 5/8? drywall as the final layer because of its mass and its sound blocking abilities. . It is always advisable to butter the edges of the last layer of drywall with acoustical caulk. You want to grab every STC (sound transmission class) point you can when trying to make your new studio as soundproof as possible. Finally you will tape mud and paint your final layer of drywall. Now you have a great soundproof home recording studio. We will discuss acoustical treatments for your studio in subsequent articles, but for now you are well on your way to having a professional grade-recording studio in your home.

Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
Website: http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Soundproofing a Ceiling with Green Glue

If you have done any research on how to soundproof a ceiling from impact noise (footfall) as well as airborne noise, you have most likely discovered that a floated ceiling using sound clips and furring channels is the best way to combat these noises from above. In essence floating a ceiling on the sound clips and furring channels will offer you the best impact protection provided you add a layer of mass loaded vinyl directly to the open joists. This method of soundproofing is quite effective, yet it can be very costly to install and there is a great margin for error when floating a ceiling. There is another method of soundproofing a ceiling from impact noise as well as airborne sound that is not quite as effective as the sound clip system, but it will offer you a cost effective solution to this problem by reducing the noise to a tolerable level.

The system I am describing is the "Green Glue" system. Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that when applied between 2 rigid hard surfaces, such as drywall, MDF or OSB and will act to dampen or change the resonant frequency of the wall board. A quick analogy is to visualize you ceiling as being a drum head, if the drywall ceiling has no been treated with the Green Glue the sound will resonate much like the sound of beating a drum head. Now if you add the Green glue to the equation you have in essence placed a finger onto the middle of the drumhead and completely stopped the resonance of the drum. This is precisely how Green Glue works in a ceiling application. Acoustical Consultants and others in the field have long known that in order to achieve the best soundproofing, you need to deaden or dampen the structure above as well as the drywall. Green Glue does exactly that; it deadens the existing drywall as well as the new drywall with the Green glue applied that you screwed into the existing drywall ceiling.

Will Green glue get rid of all the impact noise from above? Probably not, but will it make your life more tolerable? You bet it will. Green Glue is an economical and effective way to soundproof your walls, floors and ceilings from both airborne and Impact noise from the people living above you. Green Glue is effective in most condo and co-op situations and works remarkably well in lofts as well. When you're at your wits end and need to soundproof right now, Green Glue is the fast and effective soundproofing answer. For more in depth information about soundproofing your ceiling with Green Glue, go to www.greengluecompany.com and read the many testimonials on this product and see the test that were performed with Green Glue against Mass loaded vinyl, lead sheeting, Quiet Rock? and Quiet Glue?. Green Glue out performs these and many other soundproofing agents hands down. Many companies such as Soundproofing America and Sound Isolation Company offer quality discounts and contractor pricing on the Green Glue. Thanks for reading. Dr. Bob.... out!

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

You can read more http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

Green Glue instead of insulation for soundproofing

Old School soundproofing still believes that batt insulation is a good soundproofing agent. There are some good sound batt insulations out there such as Roxul AFB and Bonded logic's bonded cotton insulation and they work well for both soundproofing and thermal protection, however no batt insulation is strong enough to stand alone as the sole soundproofing material in a wall ceiling or floor assembly.

If you can afford a good batt insulation I always encourage it, but if you are soundproofing as ceiling and are not really concerned about the thermal aspects of the ceiling then I feel adding drywall pieces cut to fit perfectly into the joist cavities and screwed to the sub floor above would be much more effective than any batt insulation. Now to super charge this application I recommend that before you screw the pieces of drywall to the sub floor you apply Green Glue sound dampening compound to the back of the drywall pieces prior to screwing them to the bottom of the sub floor.

Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that is taking the soundproofing industry by storm. It comes in caulk tubes and is applied using a large quart size caulk gun. Basically you would cut the pieces of drywall to fit snuggly between the joist cavities. You would the liberally apply the Green Glue to the backside of the cut drywall and then screw it to the bottom of the sub floor. The Green Glue will be sandwiched between the drywall and the bottom of the sub floor. The tighter you screw the drywall down, the better the soundproofing will be. In essence, the pieces of drywall sporting the Green Glue in their backsides with become a most effective sound dampening system that will dampen the impact noise from above long before it is able to be transmitted into the joists and ultimately into the ceiling below. Now, is more better in this case? Absolutely, if you are able to double or triple the Green Glued layer of drywall you will indeed increase the dampening ability of the drywall and the sub floor and add greatly to the soundproofing endeavor.

Once you have installed your layers of Green Glued drywall pieces into the joist cavities, now would be a good time to install your sound or thermal batt insulation. Now for our finished drywall ceiling, I recommend that we spend the money for 2 layers of 5/8" drywall. You will screw in your first layer of drywall directly to the ceiling joists. Now your second layer will be installed directly over top of the first layer however, you guessed it, I recommend that you apply 3 tubes of Green Glue to each 4' X 8' sheet of drywall that you put up. Once you have finished with the double drywall using the Green Glue, you should immediately detect a lack of annoying noise coming from the people above. You have soundproofed your ceiling and your neighbors don't even have a clue that there was a problem there. How awesome is that? Read more about Green Glue and soundproofing walls, ceilings and floors in subsequent articles, for now this is Dr. Bob....Out!!!

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

You can read more articles on soundproofing on our blog

Old School soundproofing still believes that batt insulation is a good soundproofing agent. There are some good sound batt insulations out there such as Roxul AFB and Bonded logic's bonded cotton insulation and they work well for both soundproofing and thermal protection, however no batt insulation is strong enough to stand alone as the sole soundproofing material in a wall ceiling or floor assembly

Soundproofing a wood or tile floor

I have been getting a lot of requests lately to write an article on soundproofing a wood or tile floor in an upper apartment or condo unit. The solutions are pretty simple if you're installing wall-to-wall carpeting, but things get a little more complicated when you're dealing with hardwoods, ceramic or vinyl flooring. To begin with, when a manufacturers STC (Sound Transmission Class) claims appear to be too high always read the fine print. Generally they mean that you can only reach this high STC value in conjunction with a myriad of other products that must to be added to your floor or ceiling assembly. For example, if you're looking at ?"cork as a floor underlayment and the manufacturer claims that it will give you 55-57 STC, keep in mind that this value will only be attained with at least 3 inches of gypcrete (light weight concrete) poured overtop of the existing sub-floor and most likely the addition of a couple of layers of cement board (Hardy or Wonder board) will be needed as well. All of the STC values of these products are additive and so the manufacturer makes his claim hoping you won't read the fine print.

Even though these values are additive, there is always the law of diminishing returns to contend with, so you still may not reach your STC goal even though it says you do on paper. Many times the call out for a floor or ceiling assembly is such that ceiling below must be floated on sound clips and furring channels or resilient channels in order to obtain the 55-57 STC values that some manufacturers claim to get from their product. Basically, no soundproofing product on it's own will give you a 55-57 STC value. If you find one that does, please let me know and I'll get it on the website immediately. There are no magic formulas. What it boils down to is simply this, very few products on the market today can give you an STC value greater than 32 to 35 STC on their own, and thus these high STC claims are very misleading to say the least.

I had a customer who told me that a 1/8" cork mat would give him an STC rating of 55- 57 when laid beneath carpet and pad. I smiled and had him show me the cut sheet (spec. sheet) for the cork. The sheet called for the addition of a poured gypcrete sub floor and numerous other items that I can't recall off hand, that were needed in order to meet the 55-57 STC. Needless to say, he was shocked. Its back to that old adage, if it sounds too good to be true, it is! That being said, the absolute best way to soundproof an upstairs unit from a lower one is by floating the ceiling in the lower unit using sound clips and furring channel (hat channel).

This is the most common method used by contractors who have done any type soundproofing in their careers. This method, though more economical than the sound clips system is only about ? as effective and is generally installed improperly even by the most competent of contractors. The difference in cost for the sound clips and furring channels is well worth it to effectively soundproof a ceiling from impact or airborne noise from above. Now there are other materials that can be placed over the sub floor above that will help stop impact noise as well as block most airborne noise from below or above. One is called American Impact Pro and the other is American Impact Standard. These recycled rubber products that are specifically designed to be installed underneath hardwood and tile floors. They will also work well under carpet and padded floors.

When dealing with a hardwood floor, you can also use a product called America's Best, which is a mass loaded vinyl that is bonded to a layer of ?" closed cell foam mat. This material will provide a certain amount of floor resilience that's prevents much of the impact noise from traveling downward, however the only way this system will work properly is if the wood planks are at least 6' in length, it is also preferred that planks be interlocking on the sides. Mass loaded vinyl with foam backing is a resilient product and will allow the new hardwood floor to actually flex when walked on. This resilience adds to the footfall protection to the ceiling below. Long planked wood floors are the only hard surfaced floors that will work with America's Best vinyl. Other floors such as vinyl or ceramic tile or Pergo floor systems will not work with this product as these surfaces will have a tendency to separate or crack.

Finally, if your condo or co-op association board has a call out for IIC (impact isolation coefficient) then you will need to call a professional to discuss the procedures you'll need to follow in order to meet that particular IIC call out. Impact isolation is a whole other chapter in the Soundproofing Bible and will have to wait until next time! Thanks for reading and learning about soundproofing a wood or tile floor.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/mass-loaded-vinyl.asp

You can read more articles on soundproofing on our blog http://massloadedvinyl.blogspot.com/

Future Proofing: Why You May Need An Enduring Power Of Attorney

People can become unable to manage their own affairs at any stage of life. An accident, or the onset of mental illness, may make the everyday routines of buying and selling a house, paying bills, managing a budget and making financial decisions difficult and stressful, if not impossible. By completing an Enduring Power of Attorney (EPA) you can ensure that if this should ever happen, the person you choose to be your representative (your Attorney) will look after your affairs. Friends and family do not automatically have the right to take over. The EPA has been created to ensure that while you are of sound mind you can appoint someone you trust to look after your affairs.

What is an Enduring Power of Attorney?

An EPA is a legal document granting to a named person or people the authority to act on your behalf. Subject to certain important conditions and safeguards it continues in force until death, even if you become incapable of looking after yourself.

What happens if I don't have an EPA?

Without an EPA the Court of Protection will appoint a Receiver to act on your behalf. This process takes time and is expensive. With an EPA in place there would be no Court of Protection charges or solicitor's fees payable and no annual fees charged by the court. Minimal fees apply to register the EPA.

What safeguards are there?

When mental capacity is lost the EPA must be registered before the Attorney can legally act. You and your closest relatives will be informed allowing you to intervene with the registration should someone try to use the EPA illegally.

Am I in control of my affairs if I sign an EPA?

Yes. The EPA does not restrict your rights to go on looking after your own affairs for so long as you feel capable. The EPA simply means that there is someone to take over if, and when, you cannot cope.

An Enduring Power of Attorney can help you prepare for the future. Ask your financial planner about it today.

Find out more about EPAs and estate planning from Stephen Hall Associates

Sharon Hurley Hall is a freelance writer, ghostwriter and editor.To contact Sharon, visit http://www.doublehdesign.com/

Starting A Roofing Business - A Rewarding Opportunity For You?

Roofers are some of the people I respect the most. Their jobs are very important, because if they do not do a good job putting a roof on your house, then you will have all sorts of problems. A roof helps to keep the heating and air conditioning inside the house, and also most importantly keeps the wind, rain, and snow outside of the house. Without a good roof, your investment in your house will be washed away in no time. (Pun intended) However if you have noticed, there are not many roofing companies out there. I believe that the reason for this is that it is not easy to start a roofing business.

One of the main problems with starting a roofing business is the skills needed to be able to successfully put a new roof on a house. Another problem is that these skills are usually not taught in any school, so you have to find someone that is experienced in this area, and mentor under them for some time before you are able to perform the task on your own. Good employees can also be very hard to find to work in the roofing business. The job is very demanding, and has to be performed in extreme heat and extreme cold, so it takes a special type of person to be tough enough to perform this job.

As if these problems were not bad enough, another obstacle to starting a roofing business is trying to acquire enough capital to get started. Since many of these roofing businesses fail for the reasons above, banks and other lenders are sometimes wary about loaning money to a startup roofing business. Even if you are one of the lucky roofing businesses to get funded, you still have the problem of developing a customer base. Many consumers will not hire a roofing business unless they have quite a bit of experience and many references. It is hard to get experience and references if you can not get a job in the first place.

However if you can get past all of these obstacles, then starting a roofing business can prove to be very profitable. As the saying goes, reward is in direct proportion to difficulty and/or risk. If you're interested in starting a roofing business, and you do it right, you could be on your way to building a very successful business!

Visit our Roofing Franchise website to learn more about starting a roofing business.

Roofing Contractor

 

A contractor is essentially someone who consents to complete a task for a charge or a specialist in the building business, whose job requires hiring workers to construct a ‘paid for’ assignment. Even though a contractor's foremost concern is hiring capable subcontractors, at times he may also carry out some of the construction work by himself. These principles remain the same in reference to a roofing contractor.

Most roofing contractors are highly experienced personnel. Working in such a specific industry over time enables them to learn nuances of the trade and carve a niche for themselves. Most roofing contractors have knowledge and experience of varied roofing materials. This enables them to undertake varied roofing projects over vast terrains.

Roofing is a very important aspect of ones home, which makes it all the more essential for a homeowner to find the right contractor. Roofs are exposed to the elements at all times, which makes regular maintenance a compulsion. Roofing contractors may be called upon to do minor repair work or re-roofing. Clients must always remember that re-roofing is a very profitable venture for contractors, since it involves replacing an entire roof. In order to avoid this, a contractor should be called upon as soon as a minor flaw or condition is detected.

In most cases houses change many hands, making it difficult to locate the original roofing contractor. In such situations a new contractor who is hired should be allowed to study the project and make decisions.

While selecting a roofing contractor, one should select a specialist in order to be certain of quality work. Another effective practice is to work with recommendations from friends and family. Homeowners need to realize the importance of maintaining a roof since even the smallest leak can cause significant damage. Hiring the right roofing contractor at the appropriate time goes a long way in preserving ones home for years to come.

Roofing provides detailed information on Roofing, Metal Roofing, Roofing Contractor, Roofing Material and more. Roofing is affiliated with Asphalt Shingles.