Soundproofing a home theater

In today's hurried world, most people don't have the time or money to waste taking the entire family to the movies (up to $50 to $60 per shot) so why not build out a Home Theater in your garage, basement, or spare bedroom? The construction and soundproofing of a Home Theater is much the same as building a soundproof music studio in your home. The only major difference is that with a Home Theater, you are less concerned with sound coming into the Theater than you would be if you were doing recording or voice-overs.

The most effective method for building your Home Theater is to actually construct a room within a room. Basically this means framing out new walls within the existing room. This is a lot simpler than it sounds. If you possess tool skills and are better with them than "Tim Taylor" on "Tool Time", then you most likely are qualified to undertake this project. You will want to frame out new walls within the existing room, this is pretty easy in a basement situation, where at least 2 of the walls are most likely poured concrete or concrete block, and are generally Earthen backed. They need no soundproofing whatsoever.

By framing out the room within a room, you are taking all of the negatives in the room that were working against your soundproofing endeavor, and now making them more friendly in the form of "dead air space". Dead air space (if it is sealed) is good soundproofer in itself, but you will still need a little more soundproofing horsepower if you plan to watch Star Wars or The Matrix (cranked up) in your new Home Theater. Once the new walls are framed out, it is time to soundproof. We have found that good batt insulation such as Roxul AFB or Roxul Safe which are very effective when placed in the stud or joist cavities. If you are unable to find the Roxul products, then use a good quality rock wool or mineral wool to fill the cavities. The next step would be to adhere a layer of American Mass Loaded Vinyl directly to the stud structure. Attaching the MLV directly to the studs or joists allows the vinyl to resonate or move with the sound.

If the MLV is able to resonate, it will work to it's full potential and will give you the sound blocking required for a well-soundproofed theater. The MLV will be stapled (industrial air drive stapler) or nailed (using roofing nails with the large plastic heads) to the studs or joists. If you are able to over lap the seams that would be better, however, if that is not possible, you will want to butt the seams together tightly and caulk both the butted seams as well as the entire perimeter of the newly installed MLV. You want the MLV to act as a soundproof membrane on your walls and ceilings. Caulking and taping the seams is essential for to seal the MLV membrane. The caulked seams will also need to be taped with a quality MLV sealer tape before installing the new drywall. I recommend installing 2 layers of ?" drywall for all of the walls as well as the ceiling. Now if this becomes too costly then a single layer of 5/8" fire code drywall will be sufficient. This should complete the soundproofing portion of your home theater.

Finally, if you are installing 2 layers of drywall to your home theater walls, it is highly recommended that you apply at least 2 tubes of the Green Glue damping compound to the second layer of drywall. Simply lay out the second layer of drywall on saw horses and apply 2 tubes of the Green Glue to the back of the drywall and then simply screw in your new layer of drywall to the existing drywall with the Green Glue sandwiched in between. The Green Glue will dampen both layers of drywall and will also stop the sound of the home theater from flanking onto the walls. Once this is complete, you with then need to acoustically treat the room to give it the look and the acoustical properties of a real theater. We will discuss this in our next article.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

You can read more http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/mass-loaded-vinyl.asp

Waterproofing Foundation: What are your choices

If you are going to build a new home you need to waterproof the foundation of it so you won't have a wet basement in just a few years.

There are different waterproofing products and systems on the market so it really can be confusing. Hence what are your options?

Here is the short overview of the most common foundation waterproofing systems to help you to decide:

1. Liquid rubber foundation waterproofing membranes

Are elastomeric polymerized coatings made from liquid rubber - the same quality material your car tires are made from.

Advantages: They are easy to apply, quick to dry, cold applied. You can do it by yourself, by using sprayer, roller or trowel. The liquid cures into an elastic rubber coating, able to fill up current small holes and bridge possible future cracks in foundation wall as the building settles down. Rubber is flexible. They also usually come with a long warranty, and many are environmentally friendly with low solvent content, or solvent free. Very economical.

Disadvantages: Possibility of inconsistency in coverage, but the newest products will help you to determine the "right" thickness by the intensity of color, i.e. if you apply the product and you see any lighter patches, you just add more liquid. Additional surface preparation and curing may be required. If there are bigger cracks or holes in the structure you have to fill in with cement or other trowel-grade material before applying the overall coating. Also some of the liquid membranes require longer curing times for the concrete before they can be applied to insure proper bonding.

2. Hot applied Liquid Rubber Foundation waterproofing products:

It's a rubberized asphalt compound that forms a strong, flexible monolithic waterproofing membrane. Can be also applied on roofs.

Advantages: Adheres to virtually any structural surface. Ideal for rough uneven surfaces. Monolithic, free of seams, watertight, eliminates water migration and buildup of moisture. Offers strong protection because of the way it has to be applied.

Disadvantages: The surface has to be primed by primer first. The cost is higher because the product has to be applied in layers - basically you apply first coat of hot liquid rubber, then you have to quickly firmly press on the fabric reinforced sheet into that hot layer, then apply a second coat of hot liquid rubber waterproofing. Also, depending on the local building code you may have to apply 2 or 3 of these sheet layers. Because of this, the elasticity is low. And because it is Hot you have to be very careful - the best is to have it applied by a certified specialist.

3. Sheet membranes

The most common are self-adhering rubberized asphalt membranes composed of rubberized asphalt laminated to a waterproof polyethylene film.

Advantages: The biggest one is consistent thickness because they are "pre-made" to a required standard. Mechanically strong, resistant to hydrostatic pressure. Cover even the bigger holes or damaged areas. They can be applied to concrete, metal, wood or masonry surfaces.

Disadvantages: Harder to apply because of their very high "stickiness", also the cost for in-place is higher. Application requires at least 2 people to put in on properly. Requires lots of additional work = additional cost. If there are irregularities on the surface you want to put a sheet on they have to be smoothed first with some coat to make the surface even. You also would need to learn of joint treatment, lap joints, corners, penetration, priming, patching etc. And once the piece is down you won't get it back up in reusable condition.

4. Cementitious Waterproofing

Is a cement based flexible waterproofing membrane. It can consist of Portland cement, sand acrylic mixture, plasticizer and other active waterproofing chemicals to increase it's durability and effectiveness.

Advantages: Very easy to use, just mix the powder with water according to manufacturers recommendation and apply with brush or trowel. Very accessible - available from suppliers of masonry products, or specialized dealers. Paintable. Also comes in a variety of colors. In most cases one coat is sufficient, although some areas may be needing a use of the reinforcing mesh. Low cost. Corrosion and weather resistant. Can be applied as a positive or negative side waterproofing.

Disadvantages: No flexibility - cement does not stretch, so as the structure settles down there are the possibilities of the future cracks. Before applying the surface has to be free from protrusions, gaping cracks, oils, paints, water repellents and any other foreign material that could act as a bond breaker. Holes must be filled with approved block filler.

5. Bentonite Waterproofing

is a bentonite clay below-grade foundation waterproofing product which consists of sodium bentonite clay sandwiched between 2 layers of woven and no-woven puncture resistant polypropylene fabric. Comes as a clay panels and sheets.

Advantages: Can absorb tremendous amount of water. And as it takes the water in the clay swells and pushes itself into cracks and voids where it stays permanently as a barrier against the water. It is flexible and resistant to most chemicals. Non-toxic, non-polluting. No fumes. Can be applied in cold weather.

Disadvantages: Because of the way the clay works the seal does not form until the foundation is backfilled and the water reaches the bentonite material, which means you cannot confirm the integrity of the seal.

Summary: As you see a lot depends on your own situation, needs, requirements and what you feel comfortable with. The best way is to talk to the experts, check the manufacturers requirements especially for the concrete curing time, temperature limitations and additional labor requirements. Yes, waterproofing of the foundation can seem to be expensive at the first glance, but remember that it is a Long-term solution which when applied properly will save you lots of time, headache and money in the future, so please, don't skimp on it.

Dany Daylight is the site Administrator of Waterproofing-foundation-guaranteed.com
Get more info about Foundation waterproofing, basement waterproofing and construction. Tips, advice, articles, and waterproofing resources.

Rodent Proofing Your Home

It's that time of year where rats and mice are apt to enter our homes. Lets talk a bit about their abilities and senses first.

Rats and mice cannot see very good beyond 3 or 4 feet but have a very good sense of motion up to 30 to 50 feet away and for the most part they are color blind. Rodents are most active at night.

These rodents have a very good sense of taste so baits may be rejected by them if they are contaminated with insecticides or odors from other chemicals. Even touching baits after smoking a cigarette will make these rodents to shy away from the baits.

Rats and mice also have a good sense of smell. They mark pathways with urine and use their sense of smell to recognize the odors of the pathway to and from food sources.

Their hearing is much better than humans and make noises in various situations such as mating.

Rodents have a highly developed sense of touch due to their sensitive body hairs. They rely heavily on touch and smell to guide them through movements. The territories of most rats are between 50 and 150 feet from the nest. For mice the average territories within buildings are between 10 and 30 feet.

Rodent Proofing Your Home

The best way to control mice and rats is to make it impossible for them to enter your home. That can be difficult with mice because they can pass through an opening only 3/8 inch thick. In general, all openings greater than 1/4 inch thick should be sealed for mice and all openings greater than 1/2 inch should be sealed for rats.

Check all openings around utility lines that enter your home, around service conduits such as water pipes, electric wires, air-conditioning units, drain pipes and vents should all be sealed. Also check for broken windows and unscreened vents. Vents should be covered with metal grillwork backed by rust-resistant screening. Roofs should be checked to see that shingles are down tight and sheathing is complete. Check roof ventilators, screen vents and in wall vents.

Make sure you check under sinks where pipes enter the wall. This is a great area for mice and rats to enter your home or business.

Copper mesh stuffing, course steel wool, sheet metal, hardware cloth and mortar can be used to seal the spaces around these areas. Just use your imagination.

These are not all areas that mice and rats can enter your home. Its impossible for me to think of everywhere. Like I said, just use your imagination.The author of this article has been in the pest control industry for 13 years and has cleaned many homes of rodents and other pests and insects. For more information on rodents and other pests and insects visit his web site. http://www.infobreaks.com

Draught Proofing Your Home

This article takes a look at a number of ways of preventing or reducing draughts in your home. There are areas we look at are doors, windows and double-glazing, garage doors and finally some of the furnishings you could use to prevent draughts. Draughts are obviously caused by the cold air from outside being drawn into the house and replacing warmer air. The knock on effect of preventing draughts is a reduction in your heating bill and a warmer home. Draughts can be identified in a number of ways such as identifying obvious gaps, feeling for moving air around doors and windows and looking out for moving curtains.

As we mentioned earlier double-glazing can reduce draughts. It can also reduce heat loss, noise pollution and condensation, and all of these benefits reinforce the decision to get double-glazing. Reducing heat loss will obviously reduce heating bills and by making heating your property much more efficient. This in turn means you are making a contribution to reducing pollution and so benefiting the environment. The reduction in noise will give you a greater sense of privacy, particular if you live alongside a busy road, plus condensation can damage soft furnishings and create a damp atmosphere. By buying sealed units which fit perfecting onto their frame you are ensuring a draught free environment.

The most common area for draughts is a door. Not only is there often a gap between the door and its frame, but doors can also have cat flaps, keyholes and letterboxes. Modern doors and their frames have been built with excluding draughts in mind, but older doors are much vulnerable. You should look at draught proofing any holes or gaps around the door or indeed in the door such as cat flaps. An alternative is a draught excluder, which can be stretched along the bottom of the door where the draughts are more likely to come from.

If you have an integral garage then this is an area, which can let the cold and draughts into your property. You should not only draught proof the internal door to the garage but also the garage door itself. The best style of garage doors for keeping draughts down are the roller and sectional garage doors. These fit snugly onto tracks fitted onto the side of the garage, unlike the up and over garage door or the more traditional side hung door.

So, these are just some of the areas to attack when looking reduce draught and retain the warmth in your home.

Garry John has contributed to several home improvement sites such as garage doors and double glazing.

 

Repairing Rolled Roofing

Working on your roof, including repairing rolled roofing, can be a dangerous job. Before getting started, make sure that your ladder is strong and secured. Remember to avoid working on the roof if it is raining or wet, as this can be extremely dangerous. With the presence of water, the roof becomes very slick and increases the likelihood of a serious fall. When repairing rolled roofing, always try to choose a day with nice weather in the forecast. If you have a fear of heights or just do not wish to do the work yourself, call a professional contractor to ensure that the job is done correctly. If you decide to take on the job yourself, here are a few tips to help guide you through the process:

Material List

1. Broom or brush to sweep away debris

2. Rolled roof material to match that of your current roof

3. Utility knife to cut the roofing material

4. Roofing cement

5. Roofing nails

Remove All Debris.

Now that you’re ready to begin, start with a broom or brush and remove any loose dirt, leaves or other debris from the damage in the roofing material. Once it’s been swept away, carefully remove the damaged material making sure that neighboring pieces are not damaged in the process.

Replacing The Damaged Material.

When repairing rolled roofing, once the damaged piece is removed, cut a piece of roofing material to match the size of the one that was removed and prepare to replace it with the new one. Using roofing cement, secure the new piece in place and complete the process with roofing nails. Be sure to clean your workspace and not leave any of the old material or supplies lying around.

Calling In The Professionals.

While some relatively minor repair projects can be done by the homeowner, it’s often recommended to call a professional roofing contractor. When repairing rolled roofing, or any other home project, be sure that you can complete the task before taking on the job yourself. If you attempt to repair something that you aren’t familiar with, you may end up with further damage if the repairs aren’t done correctly. If you have any doubts, call a reputable contractor in your area for a price quote and scheduling.

As Northern Virginia Roofing Contractors, Roofer911.com takes great pride in maintaining customer satisfaction for all types of new roof installation and roof repair work for residential and commercial roofing accounts. Does your website need more exposure to the search engines? Add Your Site Today to our free directory.

Why Metal Roofing Is The New King Of Roofing Materials

AESTHETICS
Metal roofing has the most aesthetic variety of any roofing material and can come in almost any color and be stamped in a variety of shapes and designs such as cedar shakes, tile shingles and other traditional styles.

50 YEAR WARRANTY
Many metal roofing manufacturers provide a 50 year or lifetime warranty on their products. Metal roofs have lifespans of 2 - 3 times longer than traditional asphalt roofs and are virtually indestructible. A longer lifetime can actually save you money over having to replace an asphalt roof 2 or 3 times in the same period of time.

WINDSTORM PROTECTION
Many metal roofs are guaranteed to withstand winds of 120 miles per hour, and are a perfect roofing solution for coastal areas and other areas susceptible to windstorms and hurricanes. Almost 80% of all metal roofing installations are homeowners having to replace a damaged roof and are upgrading to a stronger roofing systems.

HAILSTORM PROTECTION
Metal roofing is also very durable against hailstorms and other severe forms of weather. Many metal roofing manufacturers have earned Class-4 hail-resistive ratings which is the highest hailstorm rating a roofing product can receive.

ENERGY EFFICIENT
Metal roofs are energy efficient because most are coated with special reflective paints that reduce the temperature of the roof.

COOLS YOUR HOUSE IN SUMMER
In addition, most metal roofing installations have an air channel below them which allows natural ventilation to further dissipate heat and to prevent direct radiation of the heat into the housing structure.

FREE TAX CREDIT
Many metal roofing products will qualify for a $500 energy tax credit which you can claim with the IRS.

EARTH FRIENDLY
Aluminum metal roofing is often made from recycled aluminum cans and is considered a recycled product and can help reduce our impact on the earth’s natural resources.

LIGHTWEIGHT
Metal roofing is one of the lightest roofing materials available in the marketplace and usually do not require roof brace and rafter reinforcing like tile and concrete roofs. In earthquake zones sleeping under a lighter roofing system can give you greater peace of mind.

MAINTENANCE FREE
Metal roofing is virtually maintenance free. There is really nothing you have to do to maintain this roof.

FIRE RESISTIVE
Metal roofing is considered to be a fire retardant material and can help lessen the chance of fires spreading when burning embers land on the roofing surface. Several home insurance companies will give a premium discount to homeowners that have a class-4 rated metal roof as it reduces your risk of fire, wind and hail damage.

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S.A. Smith is a freelance writer, contributor, and editor of the Steel Metal Roofing information portal which reports on the latest metal roofing construction news and developments in the steel and metal roofing industry.