The Mysteries of Soundproofing Uncovered!

It seems like the big guys never want to tell you their so-called ?Secrets of Soundproofing?. That sort of sounds like a self-help book doesn?t it? Here at Soundproofing America we know that the more knowledge our customers have the easier it is to discuss soundproofing issues intelligently. We will give you in depth information on the best soundproofing materials for your situation and will always provide detailed installation instructions for all of our quality soundproofing products.

There are no secrets regarding soundproofing, but the other guys figure that if you don?t know anything about soundproofing, they can sell you anything they want and will not be held accountable if it doesn?t work because of the buyer beware clause in their contracts.

We here at Soundproofing America don?t do things that way. We know that the more knowledge you have the better your chances are for success.

Soundproofing has many aspects that I will discuss briefly in this article. One is the addition of mass to walls and ceilings or even to your floors. By mass I am referring materials such as lead sheeting and mass loaded vinyl. These barrier materials add mass to your walls for example and act as blockers. Generally lead sheeting or MLV do not have any absorption characteristics, they and basically reflective barriers.

The are best used on bare studs and joists, though they can be adhered over top of existing drywall as long as you de-couple the barriers from the drywall. We will discuss this further in subsequent articles.

The next soundproofing agent we will discuss is a product we call America Mat. America Mat is a closed cell vinyl nitrile foam mat that is used to like the insides of joist or stud cavities. Lining these cavities with America mat will seal the cavities and create a dead air space that if very helpful for soundproofing. America mat can be purchased directly from Soundproofing America by calling their toll free number (877) 530-0139 and please feel free to ask for Dr. Bob, I?ll be more than happy to answer any and all of you soundproofing questions.

Now the third in our countdown of great soundproofing agents are sound dampers. Sound Dampers like Green Glue are my favorite soundproofing agents. Sound dampers are generally a liquid product that is applied to that backside of a layer of drywall and then installed over top of the existing drywall in the area you are soundproofing. The Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that actually deadens the drywall so it is unable to resonate. This inability of the drywall to resonate or vibrate with the sound will actually stop the sound from passing through the drywall and will cause the sound to dissipate. It actually turns into a low-grade heat energy.

Of all the materials described so far, the Green Glue is by far the easiest to install and most effective soundproofing agent on the market today. The difference between the Green Glue and other soundproofing agents is that Green Glue is more effective at stopping the transmission of low frequency sound. Frequencies of 125 Hz and below are the most difficult to stop because they are a much longer sound wave. The longer sound waves are much more difficult to combat than the higher frequencies which are shorter sound waves.

If you want to learn more about soundproofing material and their installation, call the professionals at Soundproofing America your #1 soundproofing resource from coast to coast. This is Dr. Bob?..Out!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Alternative Mass Loaded Vinyl Installations for Soundproofing

There is more than one method for installing mass loaded vinyl to obtain maximum effect. The standard of the industry is to install the MLV directly to the stud or joist framing using an industrial stapler or heavy-duty roofing nails that have the large plastic heads. This method is known as the membrane or septum method. The MLV works well when placed on a wall or ceiling in a membrane fashion, however it can also be sandwiched between 2 layers of drywall or other type of wallboard. The jury is still out on what thicknesses of drywall is best. For better frequency diffusion, it is best to use a layer of 5/8? drywall then the MLV as a septum (a sandwich) and then add a layer of ?? drywall or Homasote. The dissimilar materials do help in the soundproofing effort especially when we are looking to get every STC point we can get with as little effort as possible.

There is not a lot of information on the Web in regards to alternate methods of mass loaded vinyl installation, hopefully we will be able to explore this here. If you are constructing walls using the staggered stud method, it would be beneficial to actually weave the vinyl in an out of the staggered stud assembly itself. The above picture gives you a rough idea of how this would look. The key to weaving MLV (or any barrier material) is to seal the vinyl as best as possible. In the case of a horizontal weave (most common weave) it is best to overlap the seams by at least 1? and seal that overlap with acoustical caulking as well as a quality seam tape. The weaving of MLV also aids in the defusing of sound waves. This works much like the dissimilar materials except ?turbo charges it?.

You can also use the weave on a standard stud wall provided there is no drywall installed on either side of the studs. (just open studs) This weaving method can be foiled by stud cross members, so it is best to have only vertically installed studs if you are planning to do the weave. If you weave the MLV on a normally studded wall, there may be problems with the drywall sitting level on the studs. If your studs are 16? on center, then every other stud will have 1/8? of increased width compared to the studs that don?t have the MLV weaved a top of them. To keep the drywall even on both sides, a sound isolation tape can be adhered to every other stud that that is not covered with the weaved MLV this will make all of the stud surfaces flat and even and the drywall will rest evenly on the studs.

From the feedback of our contractors in the field, we have discovered that the more a wood structure is dampened, the better the soundproofing will be in a wall or ceiling assembly. This is especially true for impact noise from above. There are many ways to dampen a wood frame assembly and some are more effective than others. Some contractors have used blown in cellulose in order to dampen the joist or stud structures, but cellulose has no mass and though it will help to a degree, it is much less effective than using blown in closed cell foam, or my favorite (which requires some ceiling demo) is to line the cavity areas between studs and joists with a closed cell vinyl nitrile foam mat (America Mat is a great choice) for maximum dampening. The foam mat would be glued to the studs and the wallboard in the stud cavities (provided you have drywall on one side of the wall only). This insures that the wooden structure is completely dampened and if sealed properly will offer extra soundproofing as a result of sealing those cavities. Sealed dead air space is God?s natural soundproofing method, as I like to call it. I am sure you have read many of the analogies regarding sealed dead air. If you were able to seal the dead air space and actually create a vacuum in that space, you?d be amazed at the amount of sound transmission that would be blocked.

I hope this little narrative helps you especially if you are doing new construction for a home theater, or music sound studio in your home. Thanks for reading and learning together. This is Dr. Bob?..Out!!!!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Roofing Basics

Every home owner should know a thing or two about roofing. Most homeowners, at some point, will need to replace their roof in order to maintain the appearance and quality of life within their house. However, before jumping into the process of installing a new roof, it is important to understand what to expect with regards to contractors, completion dates, the installation process and materials. Looking for a new roof can be exhausting work, but with the proper knowledge and planning anyone can complete a successful roofing project.

Installing a new roof can often be a daunting task for most homeowners. Some people feel as though they can take on the project themselves, only to find out in the end that it should have been dealt with by a professional. Make sure to plan this stuff out before you invest your money because you could end up wasting a lot of it due to poor judgment. If you do decide to have a professional roofer install your roof, know that the project will be handled in a way that accommodates to those living within the home. However, you will want to agree with your contractors on completion dates so that you can plan accordingly.

Hiring a professional has its advantages. For starters, you get expert feedback on what materials you need, for both visual and practical reasons. Pretty much any question you have regarding your new roof can be answered by a qualified roofer. Furthermore, not only will your roofing company do what you request of them, but they will also be able to locate any problem areas that may be arising. Making repairs early on can save you a lot of time and money down the road. Hiring a qualified roof pro may seem like more money at first, but the quality of the job is what matters most because a poorly installed roof will cost you much more money in the end.

It is important for you to become knowledgeable on the different materials used in roof covering. This knowledge will assist you in selecting a roof covering that is right for your personal tastes, climate needs, and budget. The most common types of roofing materials include asphalt shingles, wood shake and shingles, tile roofing, slate roofing, and metal roofing. The longevity of your roof cover relies heavily on the quality of the material that you select. Using the finest material will add resale value and visual appeal to your home. When selecting a material make sure to pay special attention to the level of maintenance that each material requires and also how well it holds up to outside elements such as rain, sunlight, fire, and debris.

Lastly, before hiring just any contractor, be sure to get at least three different estimates and check each ones references. It is usually a very good idea to ask friends and family for a reference before you even begin your search. It also helps to ask your prospective roofer what other houses in your neighborhood that they have worked on. This allows you the chance to look at their work and listen to other people?s experience. This should make your decision much easier.

To learn more about roofing and for a free price quote on metal and shingle roofing visit www.RoofingKey.com.

Basement Waterproofing - All You Need To Know

You may not have already thought about waterproofing your basement. However, it might be a good idea to start thinking about it now. You may not find any problems during the hot summer months, but when the rainy season arrives, you will no doubt start to notice the problems an un-waterproofed basement can bring!

What is Basement Waterproofing and Why Should You Do It?

Basement Waterproofing is not usually needed in newer homes as they are generally pretty well waterproofed already. However, older homes, or homes that were built before the year 1970, tend to have a lot more problems due to the fact that construction in the old days was not as good as it is today!

However, it is not only the construction that could be at fault. Over the years, a water protection system of a house can break down and become less efficient. It is only natural that wear and tear happens over the years and that is why older houses are more at risk. This is when you will notice that your basement is quite wet. If you leave that wet problem alone, it will only become worse, so it is always better to get the problem fixed before a major problem arises.

Why exactly should you fix a wet basement problem? Well, at first the wet problem may just cause a slight odor that you may think is nothing really to worry about and generally it is it not. However, the problem then tends to progress into forming mildew and that quickly damages any furniture or other things that may be in the basement. A damp environment generally decays rather quickly!

Another thing to consider is that asthma sufferers will not be able to go into the affected damp room as it could cause breathing difficulties. Finally, a damp environment attracts pests, so you will not only have an extremely wet, smelly, damaged basement, but you will also have a pretty serious pest problem before long, too!

So it is always better to waterproof your basement and be sure that you eliminate any problems before they get too bad.

The Causes of Wet Basements and What Can Be Done About Them

It is only natural for foundations to leak over time, as no foundation stays waterproof forever. Houses move around over the years and that can cause various cracks and gaps that allow water to come in. Sooner or later, water does tend to find a way indoors and the basement is the first room to feel the effects!

So what are the different methods of basement waterproofing? Well the first thing that should be done, is to go around your basement and try to find any gaps or cracks that may be letting water in. If you find any, fill them in with a waterproof compound. You should be able to find something suitable in your local hardware store.

You can also waterproof the walls by using a waterproof mix, again, bought from a hardware store. However, be aware that the waterproof mixture will not work on painted walls, so any paint needs to be removed before the mixture is applied.

Overall, it all depends upon how bad the leak actually is and how much pressure it is applying to the wall to determine what protection it needs. You may need to call a professional to help you if your best efforts do not come to anything. Generally, though, if done early enough, waterproofing your basement should be fairly easy and it is always better to do it every couple of years in order to ensure that you prevent any further problems from occurring.

For more information on basement waterproofing here at my site Basement Waterproofing Info or you can get more information on Basement Waterproofing Products

Soundproofing a home theater

In today's hurried world, most people don't have the time or money to waste taking the entire family to the movies (up to $50 to $60 per shot) so why not build out a Home Theater in your garage, basement, or spare bedroom? The construction and soundproofing of a Home Theater is much the same as building a soundproof music studio in your home. The only major difference is that with a Home Theater, you are less concerned with sound coming into the Theater than you would be if you were doing recording or voice-overs.

The most effective method for building your Home Theater is to actually construct a room within a room. Basically this means framing out new walls within the existing room. This is a lot simpler than it sounds. If you possess tool skills and are better with them than "Tim Taylor" on "Tool Time", then you most likely are qualified to undertake this project. You will want to frame out new walls within the existing room, this is pretty easy in a basement situation, where at least 2 of the walls are most likely poured concrete or concrete block, and are generally Earthen backed. They need no soundproofing whatsoever.

By framing out the room within a room, you are taking all of the negatives in the room that were working against your soundproofing endeavor, and now making them more friendly in the form of "dead air space". Dead air space (if it is sealed) is good soundproofer in itself, but you will still need a little more soundproofing horsepower if you plan to watch Star Wars or The Matrix (cranked up) in your new Home Theater. Once the new walls are framed out, it is time to soundproof. We have found that good batt insulation such as Roxul AFB or Roxul Safe which are very effective when placed in the stud or joist cavities. If you are unable to find the Roxul products, then use a good quality rock wool or mineral wool to fill the cavities. The next step would be to adhere a layer of American Mass Loaded Vinyl directly to the stud structure. Attaching the MLV directly to the studs or joists allows the vinyl to resonate or move with the sound.

If the MLV is able to resonate, it will work to it's full potential and will give you the sound blocking required for a well-soundproofed theater. The MLV will be stapled (industrial air drive stapler) or nailed (using roofing nails with the large plastic heads) to the studs or joists. If you are able to over lap the seams that would be better, however, if that is not possible, you will want to butt the seams together tightly and caulk both the butted seams as well as the entire perimeter of the newly installed MLV. You want the MLV to act as a soundproof membrane on your walls and ceilings. Caulking and taping the seams is essential for to seal the MLV membrane. The caulked seams will also need to be taped with a quality MLV sealer tape before installing the new drywall. I recommend installing 2 layers of ?" drywall for all of the walls as well as the ceiling. Now if this becomes too costly then a single layer of 5/8" fire code drywall will be sufficient. This should complete the soundproofing portion of your home theater.

Finally, if you are installing 2 layers of drywall to your home theater walls, it is highly recommended that you apply at least 2 tubes of the Green Glue damping compound to the second layer of drywall. Simply lay out the second layer of drywall on saw horses and apply 2 tubes of the Green Glue to the back of the drywall and then simply screw in your new layer of drywall to the existing drywall with the Green Glue sandwiched in between. The Green Glue will dampen both layers of drywall and will also stop the sound of the home theater from flanking onto the walls. Once this is complete, you with then need to acoustically treat the room to give it the look and the acoustical properties of a real theater. We will discuss this in our next article.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

You can read more http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/mass-loaded-vinyl.asp

Is Insulation Really effective Soundproofing for Walls?

One of the oldest and most established methods for improving the sound isolation of walls is the use of insulation. It?s fast, reasonably inexpensive and easy to install. You probably have some interior walls in your own home filled with insulation. But how effective is it, anyway? Does it stop the type of sound that is most annoying you?

It might be best to first consider how sound moves from one side of a wall to the other. A typical wall will have a sheet of drywall / stud / drywall. The wall will have air spaces in between the studs. The drywall is very rigidly connected to the studs.

Sound waves will hit that wall, and attempt to vibrate through to the room next door (or floor below, etc). The sound can vibrate into the next room through one of two paths:

Through the rigid drywall-stud-drywall connection path
Through the open drywall?airspace?drywall path

The insulation will only be able to affect the vibration traveling through the airspace between the studs. The rigid drywall?stud?drywall connection is not reduced with insulation, obviously, and will conduct vibration just as effectively whether insulated or uninsulated.

This has been an extensively laboratory tested scenario, fortunately. The detail of such lab tests are conclusive, and one finds that the low frequencies are not stopped by the addition of insulation. Further, the high frequencies are not reduced significantly. Mid frequencies are reduced somewhat, however, allowing the overall rating of an insulated wall to be 2-3 STC (measurement of sound isolation) points higher than an un-insulated wall. This seems like a good thing. At least the insulation reduces the middle frequencies.

The problem, however, is that most sound isolation problems are in the low frequencies that insulation does not affect. This means that for many of us, insulation alone won?t stop the sounds that bother us the most.

Does this mean insulation is useless for soundproofing? Not at all. It simply points to the fact that insulation shouldn?t be relied on as the sole solution for soundproofing. If you are building a home or an addition or remodeling, you just can?t rely on insulation alone to soundproof.

So where does insulation play a role in sound isolation? Insulation is a great synergist with any of the following other sound isolation techniques:

De-couple the walls with staggered stud or double stud construction (very effective)

Increase the mass of the wall (moderately effective) by adding drywall.

Damp the wall with a field applied damping compound (very effective)

By deploying a combined technique approach, you will have much greater success in your soundproofing efforts.

Why Metal Roofing Is The New King Of Roofing Materials

AESTHETICS
Metal roofing has the most aesthetic variety of any roofing material and can come in almost any color and be stamped in a variety of shapes and designs such as cedar shakes, tile shingles and other traditional styles.

50 YEAR WARRANTY
Many metal roofing manufacturers provide a 50 year or lifetime warranty on their products. Metal roofs have lifespans of 2 - 3 times longer than traditional asphalt roofs and are virtually indestructible. A longer lifetime can actually save you money over having to replace an asphalt roof 2 or 3 times in the same period of time.

WINDSTORM PROTECTION
Many metal roofs are guaranteed to withstand winds of 120 miles per hour, and are a perfect roofing solution for coastal areas and other areas susceptible to windstorms and hurricanes. Almost 80% of all metal roofing installations are homeowners having to replace a damaged roof and are upgrading to a stronger roofing systems.

HAILSTORM PROTECTION
Metal roofing is also very durable against hailstorms and other severe forms of weather. Many metal roofing manufacturers have earned Class-4 hail-resistive ratings which is the highest hailstorm rating a roofing product can receive.

ENERGY EFFICIENT
Metal roofs are energy efficient because most are coated with special reflective paints that reduce the temperature of the roof.

COOLS YOUR HOUSE IN SUMMER
In addition, most metal roofing installations have an air channel below them which allows natural ventilation to further dissipate heat and to prevent direct radiation of the heat into the housing structure.

FREE TAX CREDIT
Many metal roofing products will qualify for a $500 energy tax credit which you can claim with the IRS.

EARTH FRIENDLY
Aluminum metal roofing is often made from recycled aluminum cans and is considered a recycled product and can help reduce our impact on the earth’s natural resources.

LIGHTWEIGHT
Metal roofing is one of the lightest roofing materials available in the marketplace and usually do not require roof brace and rafter reinforcing like tile and concrete roofs. In earthquake zones sleeping under a lighter roofing system can give you greater peace of mind.

MAINTENANCE FREE
Metal roofing is virtually maintenance free. There is really nothing you have to do to maintain this roof.

FIRE RESISTIVE
Metal roofing is considered to be a fire retardant material and can help lessen the chance of fires spreading when burning embers land on the roofing surface. Several home insurance companies will give a premium discount to homeowners that have a class-4 rated metal roof as it reduces your risk of fire, wind and hail damage.

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S.A. Smith is a freelance writer, contributor, and editor of the Steel Metal Roofing information portal which reports on the latest metal roofing construction news and developments in the steel and metal roofing industry.