Basic Things About Roofing Contractors

It is inevitable for every structure to have a roof; you will never find a house or a building that does not have a roof. Its basic purpose is to provide security, much like why walls are put up around structures. However, building constructors and engineers have devised additional use of roofing - that is for a stylish capping of the structures they erect. Nevertheless, the style would only last if the materials used would make the roof sturdy and durable.

Through time, man has devised an array of ways to deal with different materials to build roofs, each with its own strong and weak points relative to conditions of weather and area restrictions. These are what roofing contractors know best.

If you are surveying for roofing materials, contact first a roofing constructor in order to provide you with several options. Roofing constructors also need to explain the exact roofing materials you need against the materials they want to give you. Budget allocation also influences the final choice of the material to be used for roofing a structure.

However, the following provide a brief description and costing of different roofing materials you can discuss with a roofing constructor:

Asphalt Shingles

This is the most common choice among roofing materials. This is classified as organic and fiberglass. The durability of asphalt shingles ranges from between 20 up to 40 years. Roofing of this material rates from 30 to 35 dollars.

Wood Shingles

Western Red Cedar is the usual material used for wood shingles because this wood variety does not easily crumble. This has three categories. Number one category is highly recommended for roofing because it is durable unlike the other two categories, which are only used for lining purposes. They are usually sold thinly and in different sizes. This type of roofing normally costs between 80 up to 170 dollars.

Wood Shakes

This is another roofing material from cedar. They are usually chosen for their natural look because they are usually sawed or even hand split. Likewise, they are normally categorized according to their weights and differing sizes. Costs for wood shake are much cheaper which is from an inexpensive 70 to a mere hundred dollars.

Concrete or clay roofing

If you are looking for the most corrosive-resistant roofing material, this is the item to choose. Concrete or clay roofing prices range from 150 to 400 dollars in similar dimension for its durability that lasts from at least fifty up to a century. Be it flat or corrugated, this type of roofing usually requires additional costing for extra weight needed in the roof beams.

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Roofing Faq: Basic Roof Problems

* What are some of the typical causes of roof problems?

There are different types of roof problems, and it is best to be aware of them so you can avoid shortening the life span of the roof. Some typical roof problems are:

Not enough maintenance done. Failing to fix minor roof problems can lead to a bigger problems later on. Structural damage caused by any physical contact can also lead to more problems later on.

Climate and Weather. Extreme weather (hail, ice, snow, scorching heat) can expedite the deterioration of a roof. Strong winds can, of course, damage the roof as well.

Industrially polluted or salty air (as near the sea) and other atmospheric contaminants are also contributing factors.

Wrong design. A faulty design can lead to early problems. A weak or improperly attached roof can also collapse from weight.

Flashing problems. Flashings are used to make the roof watertight. Improper installation and weak flashing can make the roof leak and by the time it is discovered, water damage maybe extensive.

* How do I know if I need a new roof if I don't see any leaks?

Leaks are not the only reason for replacing a roof. Furthermore, if you wait until you begin seeing leaks, you may end up with more damage and a bigger problem than you had hoped. So, check your roof regularly for the following:

- Age of roof - Depending on the kind of roofing, a roof can last up to 20 years. If your roof is 15 years old, you should be watching for signs of needing repair.

- Missing or torn shingles - Damaged shingles expose the roof to water damage and rot. They also make it so that other shingles may be blown away in the wind. Old shingles may curl, split and lose their waterproofing effectiveness. These weakened shingles are more likely to be blown away by wind gusts.

- Rusted or missing flashing - Flashing is the metal that surrounds chimneys, skylights and vent pipes. It is also often found in the valleys of the roof where the roof sections meet. If it is rusted, damaged or missing, it could cause leaks.

- Gutters - Check gutters, downspouts and splash pans for damage or decay. Look for broken pieces of paint and scraps of roofing. This may be a sign that your roof needs some attention.

- Inside Walls - Watch for discolored plasterboard or cracked paint and peeling wallpaper indoors. This could be a sign of a leaky roof.

* What kind of preventive maintenance should I do for my roof?

Since roofs are constantly exposed to the elements, most roof damage results from weather and pollutants in the atmosphere. To save yourself big repair costs or even having to replace your roof before its time, you should perform a general inspection on your roof at least twice a year, checking for mildew, mold, rust, trapped water, and possible damage, and make minor repairs if necessary. That is the best preventive maintenance you can do.

Also, be sure to keep your roof clean. Remove any debris that may accumulate on it and clean out the roof gutters regularly. Also, repair any weather damage as soon as it occurs.

Rae Fakner is editor of Roofing FAQ, the online guide to Roofing. He also writes Roofing FAQ's for PrettyGreatAnswers.com

Soundproofing Solutions for Your Home or Business

We live in a noisy world. Noise seems to be everywhere - traffic, construction, loud music, crowded buildings. Noise can even be a problem in labs and offices. The problem has become so wide-spread we have even created a term for it: noise pollution. It may not be possible to stop all that noise, but thanks to advances in technology, there are ways to isolate ourselves from it. To understand how we can begin to isolate ourselves from all that noise, we need a basic understanding of how sound travels - not just through the air, but through walls, floors and ceilings.

Sound travels through the air in waves, and those waves cause the objects they come into contact with to vibrate. When a sound is loud enough, those vibrations can travel through walls, floors and ceilings transferring sound into our buildings from the outside or from room to room and floor to floor on the inside. The key to effectively stopping unwanted noise from invading our space is to stop the vibration.

In most homes and commercial buildings, walls and floors have an interior support structure of wood or steel studs or joists and are covered with some form of rigid sheeting like drywall or particle board flooring, leaving an air space between the walls, floors and ceilings. That air space allows for the easy transfer of sound waves with very little solid mass for the sound to vibrate through or slow its transfer. One of the most common methods used to reduce the transfer of that sound has been to insulate the wall, floor or ceiling with one of several types of insulation. This may reduce the transfer of sound vibrations through the air space, but does nothing to stop the sound transferred through studs, drywall, joists or flooring.

It's also important to understand that not all sound frequencies are not the same when it comes to insulation. Lab tests show that low frequency sounds aren't stopped by insulation, and high frequency sounds aren't reduced significantly. Insulating the air space is only effective in deadening mid-range frequency sound.

Then how is sound transferred in an insulated wall? When drywall is nailed directly to wall studs, sound waves vibrate the drywall, that vibration is transferred to the stud, and is finally transferred to the drywall on the other side of the wall. That vibrates the air in the room and the vibrations become sound waves again. The industry calls this coupling.

One method to reduce this transfer of vibration is called de-coupling. De-coupling is nothing more than creating a space between the drywall and studs. This dampens the sound. That is, the vibration and resulting transfer of sound is greatly reduced. This can easily be done during construction by placing a resilient cushion between the drywall and stud to absorb the vibration. There are clips and channels available for that purpose. Another even more effective method is to install a cushioning sheet over the stud wall and under the drywall, or over floor joists and under sub-flooring, When combined with insulating the air space between walls and floors, there is a significant reduction in the transfer of high, low and mid-range sound frequencies.

It is also important to seal around all outside door and window openings with a good quality caulk. To reduce the transfer of sound from room to room, don't forget to seal outlets and install duct liners in furnace and air exchange duct work. When used together, each of these methods will go a long way in controlling the transfer of unwanted sound.

So far we have considered reducing sound in a home, a commercial building or a single room or area. And these methods are really only practical for new construction. They also can't completely eliminate sound - only reduce it to acceptable levels.

What can be done when retro-fitting a room isn't cost effective and sound isolation is needed? The answer may be as small as a portable "mini" sound shelter or as large as a sound isolation room. There are any number of applications where sound isolation is required. Hearing testing, speech therapy, psychological testing and data recording and industrial applications are just a few.

To meet those needs audiometric booths, sound isolation rooms and noise reduction rooms are available. By incorporating innovations like carpeted vibration isolated floors, space-saver roof mounted ventilation, recessed electrical outlets, noise-lock doors, double glazed windows and double thick modular wall panels, sound can be controlled in small spaces such as a portable booth or as large as a room within a room.

Understanding a bit about sound, how it travels and what can stop it can help you decide what you need to do to control the sound around you. Whether you want to keep the noise of the outside world out, quiet a part of your home or commercial building or need an area of sound isolation, understanding the technology that is available can help you make a sound decision.

Integrity Acoustic Solutions builds, installs, and repairs audiometric booths, sound isolation rooms, and noise reductions rooms for medical and educational institutions.

The Basic Principals of Soundproofing

Today?s homes are louder than ever and everyone would like things quieter. The question is what to do? Obviously no one wants to spend big bucks on soundproofing, only to spend time and money in vain and still hear plenty of noise.

Sound isolation is science, not magic, and as such it is possible to outline a foundation of basic principles that define soundproofing in any given situation. There are just a few basic principles that govern the sound isolation of any wall, floor or ceiling.

Principle #1: Mass Mass impedes the transmission of sound in a simple way - it's harder for the sound to shake a very heavy thing than a very light thing, no different than saying it's harder to push a shopping cart full of lead bricks than an empty cart. However, to make large changes in performance you have to make very large changes in mass.

Principle #2: Decoupling Think of a typical wall. You have a stud with drywall on each side. If you hammer the drywall in room #1, that vibration will conduct through the drywall, into the stud, and directly into the drywall of room #2, where it becomes sound again. This is a very rigid, coupled wall, excellent for sound conduction.

De-coupling is very simply disconnecting this rigid connection by inserting a space or something resilient like neoprene rubber between one layer of drywall and the stud. Products are commercially available to do this such as resilient sound clips and resilient channel.

If you are dealing with new construction you should really consider staggered stud or double stud construction for rooms that need isolating. It is generally less expensive and higher performing that the commercial products mentioned above.

These techniques all function by inhibiting the movement of sound from one side of the wall to the other through mechanical paths (like studs or joists). Instead, the vibration has to pass through the air cavity between the studs, where some of it will be lost, and through the insulation/absorbing material, where (at higher frequencies) much of it will be lost.

Principle #3: Absorption This is accomplished with simple insulation such as cellulose, fiberglass and mineral fiber (wool). Exotic ($$) insulations are also available. Foams are not a good product to use for absorbing sound. Foam is excellent for thermal purposes, but not acoustic.

Installing insulation in a wall or ceiling cavity increases the sound loss due by eliminating/removing/destroying some sound. An important note is that insulation loses its effectiveness at very low frequencies. Put some fiberglass in front of a speaker at home and you?ll hear the sound drop. Put that same insulation in front of a subwoofer and you might not hear any difference at all.

Insulation is important, but not very effective if it is the only technique used.

Principle #4: Damping This doesn?t mean moistening your wall. To damp something is to reduce its ability to conduct a vibration. A steel pipe conducts sound well; it is not well damped. Drywall, subflooring and most building materials are not well damped. There are damping materials known as visco-elastics that can be very easily and economically applied between sheets of standard drywall and subflooring and are highly effective.

Principal #5: Sealing Make sure to caulk around all openings such as outlets and windows. Seal doors with weatherstrip. Install duct liner in your ducts. These all help to keep sound from entering or exiting.

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More Tips on Puppy Proofing Your Home and Making It Safe for Your Puppy

As with toddlers, puppies seem to put everything into their mouths. This is due to that insatiable curiosity and boundless energy they seem to have. Just as with toddlers, you must remove small objects from your puppy's reach as you puppy proof your home. Think of all the things you would not want a toddler getting and move it higher or into storage.

The trick for toddlers is anything that can fit down the cardboard tube of a toilet paper roll is too small and that can be a good rule of thumb for your puppy as well. Things like loose change on the table, too small toys, jewelry, needles, marbles, etc. must be removed. And remember your puppy keeps growing so what is a safe location one day might not be next week.

In your effort to puppy proof your home, think of things you do not want your puppy chewing on and remove those. It is almost proverbial that a puppy will chew on your shoes and socks. You might think it's funny or cute now, but you won't be thinking that when he is a full-grown adult. Not only is chewing your shoes and socks a potential health hazard to your puppy, it can get expensive replacing the chewed up items. Remove the temptation now as you puppy proof your home.

Think of the rooms in your home from your puppy's perspective. The bathroom may not seem so dangerous to you, but that trash may hold some items that will put his health into danger such as dental floss, cleaning rags or even feminine products. Keep the toilet lid shut. You wouldn't have that potential drowning hazard available to a toddler, so don't leave it available to your puppy. Best to keep that door shut.

And keep this danger in mind when surveying your kitchen. The kitchen trash can pose such a hazard as well not to mention the mess your puppy can make. Be sure your trashcan is substantial enough when you are making your home puppy proof that your puppy can't knock it over.

Another hazard to consider when looking to puppy proof your home is an open window. If you have windows you keep open that somehow your puppy can get to, you can see that he might easily fall out that window. If it is a high placed window, if might suffer severe injury or even death. A low window could let him get out into the great outdoors where he might get lost, be run over or run into something much bigger than him.

Yet another thing to consider when you puppy proof your home is things your puppy can ingest that might be harmful to him. Too much candy and certain houseplants can make your puppy very sick. Remove the candy dish from the coffee table and move the houseplants where he can't reach.

When you puppy proof your home, remember to take a look around from your puppy's perspective. Things that are "just there" for you can be dangerous for your puppy both from a health standpoint as well as from a training aspect. Don't set your puppy up for bad habits simply because you didn't take the time to puppy proof your home.

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Metal Roofing - Choosing The Right Roofing Supply Materials

When you decide to remodel your home or are just on the process of starting to plan about doing it, metal roofs can be high on your list of choices these days. Since some of the types of this roofing material can be cost-effective and particularly, metal type of roofing can be easy to install and can compete in durability and effectiveness to wood or asphalt shingles thanks to their added coating of zinc.

In the world of metal roofing, you can easily choose from a few common materials. It will all be to your preference as they do not easily rust or corrode. Here is a quick guide to some metal roofing supply materials:

1. First up is steel. Steel is your first choice but the heaviest of the bunch. They are sturdy and can be undoubtedly protect your home with no problems at all. It is also coated and sealed with zinc. Along with the treatment, they will look polished so you can always get a good view of your house even from afar.

2. The next is stainless steel. They give out the best overall impression. They will never rust but with the downside of being expensive. Nevertheless, if you are onto investing a good roof, this will be the easiest answer for you.

3. Another type is aluminum. When you hold aluminum, it is light and this is also true to aluminum roofing panels. It resists corrosion and oxidation. They must be treated to obtain the shine and gloss that the other metal roofing materials do.

4. Next up is copper. This is by far the most expensive of the bunch. However, with that said, they have top-notch durability. They might be the softest metal roofing, but this is a good feature as they can be easily bended to the contours of your roof and can add some nice roofing ideas.

Be warned, though, that copper is prone to losing their natural color, it will turn green after a few years but a good treatment will dramatically extend its natural red sheen.

All of them are recommended roofing materials. However, it all comes down to going around your target budget. You can easily choose steel as they are commonly used. Alloys are also available but since they are the most expensive. In the end, it would all be good as you can have a good style of roofing and will likely enjoy them for many years to come.

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