What is Green Glue and How Does It Work for Soundproofing?

Green Glue is a revolutionary new soundproofing compound that approaches the issues of soundproofing from an entirely different angle. Green Glue is no a sound blocker or a sound absorber of a sound diffuser, but rather it is a sound deadener or damper. I know, I can hear the wheels in your head turning. What is a sound damper? Well, I?m glad you asked. A sound damper is and agent or material that actually stops the transmission of sound through two rigid hard surfaces such as drywall or soundboard.

Here?s how it works, when Green Glue is applied to a second sheet of drywall and then sandwiched in between the existing drywall and this new piece of drywall. The Green Glue will actually change the resonant frequencies of both layers of drywall and will stop their ability to transmit sound.

So are your confused yet. I have a very simply analogy of how the Green Glue actually works. I got this from a customer who was well attuned to the properties of Green Glue.

If you will, visualize your wall as being a drumhead. Now you have one of your kids beat the drum with a drumstick. The drum will resonate loud and clear, as there is nothing restricting the transmission of the sound as the drumstick strikes the drumhead. Now let take that same drumhead and as the child strikes the drum you place your finger on the drumhead. What happens now? The drum is now restricted and cannot transmit the sound or will only transmit a fraction of the sound that it did when the drumhead was unrestricted. I hope this little analogy has shown you how the Green Glue acts as a sound damper when applied between two layers of drywall or soundboard. I sure put Green Glue in perspective for me and I have been in the soundproofing industry for years.

Now knowing that the Green Glue is not a blocking agent or and absorber, it is now absolutely essential that is cover every square inch of the drywall layers. In other words, once you screw the second layer of drywall over top the first with the Green Glue sandwiched in between, it makes no difference that the screws are making a connection between the stud structure and the drywall layers. Why you ask? Because we are damping or deadening the drywall layers, he Green Glue is not a soundproof barrier.

Green Glue fills a very critical gap when soundproofing. It precludes you from having to remove your existing drywall. As far as I am concerned, the less demolition I have to do, the better.

Lastly, Green Glue also works remarkably well when applied to your ceiling. If you live in a condo, apartment or loft and have neighbors above you, you know exactly what I am talking about. Impact noise also known as Footfall noise is some of the hardest noise to deal with. Sure you could spend thousands on expensive hangers and clips and mass loaded vinyl not to mention the labor costs involved, and granted you will get some great soundproofing and impact protection if these materials are installed properly, but with if you use the Green Glue system on your ceiling you can experience a 60%?65% reduction in the amount of impact noise that is transmitted from the unit above. With the cost of housing ever climbing, Green Glue is becoming an essential part of building a home that gives you peace and solitude.

To learn more about Green Glue and how it can help you soundproof your home, go to www.greengluecompany.com there you will find independent test of the Green Glue against mass loaded vinyl, lead foil sheeting, suppress and Quiet rock as well as other damping agents. You will see that Green Glue is by far the most effective sound-damping agent on the market today. If you are in the market for this product or any of out quality soundproofing products, go to: www.soundproofingamerica.com, your #1 Soundproofing resource from coast to coast.

This is Dr. Bob?.Out!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Alternative Mass Loaded Vinyl Installations for Soundproofing

There is more than one method for installing mass loaded vinyl to obtain maximum effect. The standard of the industry is to install the MLV directly to the stud or joist framing using an industrial stapler or heavy-duty roofing nails that have the large plastic heads. This method is known as the membrane or septum method. The MLV works well when placed on a wall or ceiling in a membrane fashion, however it can also be sandwiched between 2 layers of drywall or other type of wallboard. The jury is still out on what thicknesses of drywall is best. For better frequency diffusion, it is best to use a layer of 5/8? drywall then the MLV as a septum (a sandwich) and then add a layer of ?? drywall or Homasote. The dissimilar materials do help in the soundproofing effort especially when we are looking to get every STC point we can get with as little effort as possible.

There is not a lot of information on the Web in regards to alternate methods of mass loaded vinyl installation, hopefully we will be able to explore this here. If you are constructing walls using the staggered stud method, it would be beneficial to actually weave the vinyl in an out of the staggered stud assembly itself. The above picture gives you a rough idea of how this would look. The key to weaving MLV (or any barrier material) is to seal the vinyl as best as possible. In the case of a horizontal weave (most common weave) it is best to overlap the seams by at least 1? and seal that overlap with acoustical caulking as well as a quality seam tape. The weaving of MLV also aids in the defusing of sound waves. This works much like the dissimilar materials except ?turbo charges it?.

You can also use the weave on a standard stud wall provided there is no drywall installed on either side of the studs. (just open studs) This weaving method can be foiled by stud cross members, so it is best to have only vertically installed studs if you are planning to do the weave. If you weave the MLV on a normally studded wall, there may be problems with the drywall sitting level on the studs. If your studs are 16? on center, then every other stud will have 1/8? of increased width compared to the studs that don?t have the MLV weaved a top of them. To keep the drywall even on both sides, a sound isolation tape can be adhered to every other stud that that is not covered with the weaved MLV this will make all of the stud surfaces flat and even and the drywall will rest evenly on the studs.

From the feedback of our contractors in the field, we have discovered that the more a wood structure is dampened, the better the soundproofing will be in a wall or ceiling assembly. This is especially true for impact noise from above. There are many ways to dampen a wood frame assembly and some are more effective than others. Some contractors have used blown in cellulose in order to dampen the joist or stud structures, but cellulose has no mass and though it will help to a degree, it is much less effective than using blown in closed cell foam, or my favorite (which requires some ceiling demo) is to line the cavity areas between studs and joists with a closed cell vinyl nitrile foam mat (America Mat is a great choice) for maximum dampening. The foam mat would be glued to the studs and the wallboard in the stud cavities (provided you have drywall on one side of the wall only). This insures that the wooden structure is completely dampened and if sealed properly will offer extra soundproofing as a result of sealing those cavities. Sealed dead air space is God?s natural soundproofing method, as I like to call it. I am sure you have read many of the analogies regarding sealed dead air. If you were able to seal the dead air space and actually create a vacuum in that space, you?d be amazed at the amount of sound transmission that would be blocked.

I hope this little narrative helps you especially if you are doing new construction for a home theater, or music sound studio in your home. Thanks for reading and learning together. This is Dr. Bob?..Out!!!!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Green Glue instead of fiberglass insulation for soundproofing

Old School soundproofing still believes that batt insulation is a good soundproofing agent. There are some good sound batt insulations out there such as Roxul AFB and Bonded logic's bonded cotton insulation and they work well for both soundproofing and thermal protection, however no batt insulation is strong enough to stand alone as the sole soundproofing material in a wall ceiling or floor assembly. If you can afford a good batt insulation I always encourage it, but if you are soundproofing as ceiling and are not really concerned about the thermal aspects of the ceiling then I feel adding drywall pieces cut to fit perfectly into the joist cavities and screwed to the sub floor above would be much more effective than any batt insulation. Now to super charge this application I recommend that before you screw the pieces of drywall to the sub floor you apply Green Glue sound dampening compound to the back of the drywall pieces prior to screwing them to the bottom of the sub floor. Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that is taking the soundproofing industry by storm. It comes in caulk tubes and is applied using a large quart size caulk gun. Basically you would cut the pieces of drywall to fit snuggly between the joist cavities. You would the liberally apply the Green Glue to the backside of the cut drywall and then screw it to the bottom of the sub floor. The Green Glue will be sandwiched between the drywall and the bottom of the sub floor. The tighter you screw the drywall down, the better the soundproofing will be. In essence, the pieces of drywall sporting the Green Glue in their backsides with become a most effective sound dampening system that will dampen the impact noise from above long before it is able to be transmitted into the joists and ultimately into the ceiling below. Now, is more better in this case? Absolutely, if you are able to double or triple the Green Glued layer of drywall you will indeed increase the dampening ability of the drywall and the sub floor and add greatly to the soundproofing endeavor. Once you have installed your layers of Green Glued drywall pieces into the joist cavities, now would be a good time to install your sound or thermal batt insulation. Now for our finished drywall ceiling, I recommend that we spend the money for 2 layers of 5/8" drywall. You will screw in your first layer of drywall directly to the ceiling joists. Now your second layer will be installed directly over top of the first layer however, you guessed it, I recommend that you apply 3 tubes of Green Glue to each 4' X 8' sheet of drywall that you put up. Once you have finished with the double drywall using the Green Glue, you should immediately detect a lack of annoying noise coming from the people above. You have soundproofed your ceiling and your neighbors don't even have a clue that there was a problem there. How awesome is that? Read more about Green Glue and soundproofing walls, ceilings and floors in subsequent articles, for now this is Dr. Bob....Out!!!

Dr. Bob O. Soundproofing America, Inc. Senior Technical Director Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079 E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com Website: http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Soundproofing a Ceiling with Green Glue

If you have done any research on how to soundproof a ceiling from impact noise (footfall) as well as airborne noise, you have most likely discovered that a floated ceiling using sound clips and furring channels is the best way to combat these noises from above. In essence floating a ceiling on the sound clips and furring channels will offer you the best impact protection provided you add a layer of mass loaded vinyl directly to the open joists. This method of soundproofing is quite effective, yet it can be very costly to install and there is a great margin for error when floating a ceiling. There is another method of soundproofing a ceiling from impact noise as well as airborne sound that is not quite as effective as the sound clip system, but it will offer you a cost effective solution to this problem by reducing the noise to a tolerable level.

The system I am describing is the "Green Glue" system. Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that when applied between 2 rigid hard surfaces, such as drywall, MDF or OSB and will act to dampen or change the resonant frequency of the wall board. A quick analogy is to visualize you ceiling as being a drum head, if the drywall ceiling has no been treated with the Green Glue the sound will resonate much like the sound of beating a drum head. Now if you add the Green glue to the equation you have in essence placed a finger onto the middle of the drumhead and completely stopped the resonance of the drum. This is precisely how Green Glue works in a ceiling application. Acoustical Consultants and others in the field have long known that in order to achieve the best soundproofing, you need to deaden or dampen the structure above as well as the drywall. Green Glue does exactly that; it deadens the existing drywall as well as the new drywall with the Green glue applied that you screwed into the existing drywall ceiling.

Will Green glue get rid of all the impact noise from above? Probably not, but will it make your life more tolerable? You bet it will. Green Glue is an economical and effective way to soundproof your walls, floors and ceilings from both airborne and Impact noise from the people living above you. Green Glue is effective in most condo and co-op situations and works remarkably well in lofts as well. When you're at your wits end and need to soundproof right now, Green Glue is the fast and effective soundproofing answer. For more in depth information about soundproofing your ceiling with Green Glue, go to www.greengluecompany.com and read the many testimonials on this product and see the test that were performed with Green Glue against Mass loaded vinyl, lead sheeting, Quiet Rock? and Quiet Glue?. Green Glue out performs these and many other soundproofing agents hands down. Many companies such as Soundproofing America and Sound Isolation Company offer quality discounts and contractor pricing on the Green Glue. Thanks for reading. Dr. Bob.... out!

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

You can read more http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

Roofing Shingles Installation Basics

When it comes time to replace the shingles on your home, you will need all the information you can get in regards roofing shingles installation basics. Therefore, why not start at the beginning, with the types of roofing shingles. There are four popular categories of shingles, wood shakes, slate, laminated, and asphalt shingles. To know which you should be choosing, you should understand how each one works and what features they have, all of which can help you determine which is right for you.

Asphalt roofing shingles are the most popular of all types. They are constructed with paper, glass, or fiber, with intense durability. These shingles are designed to last between twenty and thirty years.

Laminated roofing shingles are also becoming extremely popular. These shingles have a design that adds depth, color, and character to any room. Constructed with many different materials, such as asphalt, it creates a look of expensive roofing materials, without the large costs.

Slate roofing shingles also referred to as stone shingles are heavy but durable. Popular, but not overly used before it tends to break easy and can be extremely hard to work with. Many people enjoy the natural, handcrafted, and colorful look that slate shingles offer, as well as the durability, which allows the shingles to last for more than 100 years.

Wood roofing shingles, also known as shakes, are constructed with different treated woods such as pine, spruce, or cedar, and although cedar is the best type of wood used. While with first installation, the wood shingles are bright and lively colors, after the first year of use, it will dull quickly to the color of gray. Furthermore, splintering, warping, and shrinking are common complaints with wood roofing shingles, and generally have to be replaced within thirty years or less.

If you simply do not know how to or want to install your own roofing shingles, your best bet is to hire a professional roofer. When contacting roofers make sure that you opt for a company that is well established, carries a business license, and has permanent addresses and telephone numbers. Ask to view the companies insurance, bonding, training, and certificate information.

You will also want to choose a company that provides you with a full, written estimate of every aspect of the job; this includes time of completion, warranty, labor costs, and materials they intend to use. Before choosing a roofing shingles installer, make sure that you obtain a minimum of three estimates. This allows you to compare prices, as well as warranty, services, and ultimately work ethics. Obtain references, this is obviously important, you are entrusting the roofer with a valuable possession, your home. You want to be sure that they are qualified, trustworthy, hardworking, and professional.

Daniel Roshard is a interior designer fascinated by garden architecture, he is currently studying interior design integration to public parks and gardens. Daniel is writing Roof Shingles and Roofing reviews for ZupaTips.com

Tips to Successfully Baby Proofing a Home

Safety first. That is the key rule when having a baby. Once they start crawling and walking, there are so many hazardous places that the little child can get into. Here are some helpful tips to focus on when baby proofing a house.

Babies are very curious and love to get into any place that they can. It is important to make sure cupboards are locked and unable for the child to get into. Not only are chemical containers with toxic materials a very important thing to be careful of, but there are many other everyday items that can provide serious injury to the child through choking or and suffocation. Such items could include small pieces of plastic, cloth, writing utensils, bags, and practically anything and everything.

Once the child becomes really active and starts climbing things, you will have to make sure higher places are not full of dangerous items too. Such places could be draws or racks with shop objects like in the kitchen, bookshelves and desks with heavy objects, and an assortment of places like this.

Electricity is another important thing to keep an eye on. You want to make sure the child can't get to electric chords and sockets. It is also important to be aware of what buttons on certain devices a child may be able to reach. Some could be harmless like a TV, but a few devices might pose a serious risk to a child once turned on or put on certain settings.

Keep an eye on items that have strings and chords. Make sure they are not in reach of the child and make sure no toys have dangerous strings. They could be swallowed or get stuck in the throat, or even more dangerous of a possibility is getting wrapped around the child's neck and strangling them.

Another key item is safety gates to prevent a child from accessing dangerous areas. These areas might be rooms that have too many hazards to the child and can't be properly child proofed otherwise or stairways. Make sure they are installed correctly, firm, and don't have large holes for the child to get stuck in.

Be careful of furniture placement. This is to prevent your child from getting stuck. Children are very curious. Don't put it past your son or daughter to try to squeeze themselves between two pieces of furniture, or even stick their head into the gap to look for something. It doesn't always have to be between two pieces of furniture. It can be between furniture and the wall, furniture and a radiator, furniture and any other large object.

Above all, it is important to keep an eye on the child. Even the best child proofed room can still hold many hazards that are just temporary. In other words, objects that are left behind by other people that can't be child proofed but still dangerous to the young child. Children should be watched at all times. You can't possibly know or remember every single way they can get hurt in each room. But keeping an eye on them not only assures that you will be there to prevent serious injury, but you will also be able to notice places that were overlooked and need childproofing.

Children are very curious and constantly on the go. They are a great responsibility but a joy to the world. Don't overlook anything when it comes to child proofing a house. When it comes to a child's safety, it is better to be too safe than sorry later on.

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.BabyNameVote.Com/ which is a site for Baby Names.

Jake Rose is an artist and an author from Massachusetts.

Metal Roofing - Choosing The Right Roofing Supply Materials

When you decide to remodel your home or are just on the process of starting to plan about doing it, metal roofs can be high on your list of choices these days. Since some of the types of this roofing material can be cost-effective and particularly, metal type of roofing can be easy to install and can compete in durability and effectiveness to wood or asphalt shingles thanks to their added coating of zinc.

In the world of metal roofing, you can easily choose from a few common materials. It will all be to your preference as they do not easily rust or corrode. Here is a quick guide to some metal roofing supply materials:

1. First up is steel. Steel is your first choice but the heaviest of the bunch. They are sturdy and can be undoubtedly protect your home with no problems at all. It is also coated and sealed with zinc. Along with the treatment, they will look polished so you can always get a good view of your house even from afar.

2. The next is stainless steel. They give out the best overall impression. They will never rust but with the downside of being expensive. Nevertheless, if you are onto investing a good roof, this will be the easiest answer for you.

3. Another type is aluminum. When you hold aluminum, it is light and this is also true to aluminum roofing panels. It resists corrosion and oxidation. They must be treated to obtain the shine and gloss that the other metal roofing materials do.

4. Next up is copper. This is by far the most expensive of the bunch. However, with that said, they have top-notch durability. They might be the softest metal roofing, but this is a good feature as they can be easily bended to the contours of your roof and can add some nice roofing ideas.

Be warned, though, that copper is prone to losing their natural color, it will turn green after a few years but a good treatment will dramatically extend its natural red sheen.

All of them are recommended roofing materials. However, it all comes down to going around your target budget. You can easily choose steel as they are commonly used. Alloys are also available but since they are the most expensive. In the end, it would all be good as you can have a good style of roofing and will likely enjoy them for many years to come.

For tips on using metal roofing, visit http://www.metalroofing101.com