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Thursday, April 10, 2008

Alternative Mass Loaded Vinyl Installations for Soundproofing

There is more than one method for installing mass loaded vinyl to obtain maximum effect. The standard of the industry is to install the MLV directly to the stud or joist framing using an industrial stapler or heavy-duty roofing nails that have the large plastic heads. This method is known as the membrane or septum method. The MLV works well when placed on a wall or ceiling in a membrane fashion, however it can also be sandwiched between 2 layers of drywall or other type of wallboard. The jury is still out on what thicknesses of drywall is best. For better frequency diffusion, it is best to use a layer of 5/8? drywall then the MLV as a septum (a sandwich) and then add a layer of ?? drywall or Homasote. The dissimilar materials do help in the soundproofing effort especially when we are looking to get every STC point we can get with as little effort as possible.

There is not a lot of information on the Web in regards to alternate methods of mass loaded vinyl installation, hopefully we will be able to explore this here. If you are constructing walls using the staggered stud method, it would be beneficial to actually weave the vinyl in an out of the staggered stud assembly itself. The above picture gives you a rough idea of how this would look. The key to weaving MLV (or any barrier material) is to seal the vinyl as best as possible. In the case of a horizontal weave (most common weave) it is best to overlap the seams by at least 1? and seal that overlap with acoustical caulking as well as a quality seam tape. The weaving of MLV also aids in the defusing of sound waves. This works much like the dissimilar materials except ?turbo charges it?.

You can also use the weave on a standard stud wall provided there is no drywall installed on either side of the studs. (just open studs) This weaving method can be foiled by stud cross members, so it is best to have only vertically installed studs if you are planning to do the weave. If you weave the MLV on a normally studded wall, there may be problems with the drywall sitting level on the studs. If your studs are 16? on center, then every other stud will have 1/8? of increased width compared to the studs that don?t have the MLV weaved a top of them. To keep the drywall even on both sides, a sound isolation tape can be adhered to every other stud that that is not covered with the weaved MLV this will make all of the stud surfaces flat and even and the drywall will rest evenly on the studs.

From the feedback of our contractors in the field, we have discovered that the more a wood structure is dampened, the better the soundproofing will be in a wall or ceiling assembly. This is especially true for impact noise from above. There are many ways to dampen a wood frame assembly and some are more effective than others. Some contractors have used blown in cellulose in order to dampen the joist or stud structures, but cellulose has no mass and though it will help to a degree, it is much less effective than using blown in closed cell foam, or my favorite (which requires some ceiling demo) is to line the cavity areas between studs and joists with a closed cell vinyl nitrile foam mat (America Mat is a great choice) for maximum dampening. The foam mat would be glued to the studs and the wallboard in the stud cavities (provided you have drywall on one side of the wall only). This insures that the wooden structure is completely dampened and if sealed properly will offer extra soundproofing as a result of sealing those cavities. Sealed dead air space is God?s natural soundproofing method, as I like to call it. I am sure you have read many of the analogies regarding sealed dead air. If you were able to seal the dead air space and actually create a vacuum in that space, you?d be amazed at the amount of sound transmission that would be blocked.

I hope this little narrative helps you especially if you are doing new construction for a home theater, or music sound studio in your home. Thanks for reading and learning together. This is Dr. Bob?..Out!!!!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

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Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Cheap soundproofing using American Sound Isolation tape.

American Sound Isolation tape is a great way to give you new home or addition some good soundproofing without spending a fortune. This sound isolation tape comes in 100 lineal ft rolls and it 1 7/16 " wide or basically the width of a stud or joist end. You simply peel off the backing and adhere to the Isolation tape to the face of all of the studs or the joist prior to screwing in the sheetrock. This will isolate the stud or joist structure from the finished drywall. This isolation helps to reduce airborne sound transmission as well as structure borne transmission through the studs or joists. There is another method that employs the American sound isolation tape and that is to double layer it on every other stud. If your studs are 16 OC then you will be taping every other stud at 32" OC. Once you have double taped every other stud, you will screw your drywall only into the taped studs. This will not only give you the isolation of the wood or steel structure from the outer wallboard, but it will give you the same effect as staggered studs. This method can be employed on both sides of the studs and to the end facings of joists. You can even tape the joists above before installing a sub floor, which will help to isolate the sub floor from the joists and the ceiling below. If you are in the process of new construction or remodeling where you have removed all drywall, taping the studs and joists with the American Isolation tape is essential. If you are remodeling or under new construction, American Sound Isolation tape is an effective and economical way to give your drywall the isolation it needs from the wood structure. This isolation will help to give you some good soundproofing between bedroom walls for example and doesn't cost you an arm and a leg to install. There are many other uses for American Sound Isolation tape that I just couldn't fit into this article. Builders and contractors across the United States and Canada are now using American sound isolation tape as a low cost soundproofing alternative to the more costly foams and barriers. For more information on American sound isolation tape or other quality soundproofing products go to my blog at: http://massloadedvinyl.blogspot.com/ Thanks for reading and learning about American Sound Isolation tape. This is Dr. Bob...Out!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O. Soundproofing America, Inc. Senior Technical Director Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079 E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.

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Monday, March 17, 2008

Roofing Faq: Basic Roof Problems

* What are some of the typical causes of roof problems?

There are different types of roof problems, and it is best to be aware of them so you can avoid shortening the life span of the roof. Some typical roof problems are:

Not enough maintenance done. Failing to fix minor roof problems can lead to a bigger problems later on. Structural damage caused by any physical contact can also lead to more problems later on.

Climate and Weather. Extreme weather (hail, ice, snow, scorching heat) can expedite the deterioration of a roof. Strong winds can, of course, damage the roof as well.

Industrially polluted or salty air (as near the sea) and other atmospheric contaminants are also contributing factors.

Wrong design. A faulty design can lead to early problems. A weak or improperly attached roof can also collapse from weight.

Flashing problems. Flashings are used to make the roof watertight. Improper installation and weak flashing can make the roof leak and by the time it is discovered, water damage maybe extensive.

* How do I know if I need a new roof if I don't see any leaks?

Leaks are not the only reason for replacing a roof. Furthermore, if you wait until you begin seeing leaks, you may end up with more damage and a bigger problem than you had hoped. So, check your roof regularly for the following:

- Age of roof - Depending on the kind of roofing, a roof can last up to 20 years. If your roof is 15 years old, you should be watching for signs of needing repair.

- Missing or torn shingles - Damaged shingles expose the roof to water damage and rot. They also make it so that other shingles may be blown away in the wind. Old shingles may curl, split and lose their waterproofing effectiveness. These weakened shingles are more likely to be blown away by wind gusts.

- Rusted or missing flashing - Flashing is the metal that surrounds chimneys, skylights and vent pipes. It is also often found in the valleys of the roof where the roof sections meet. If it is rusted, damaged or missing, it could cause leaks.

- Gutters - Check gutters, downspouts and splash pans for damage or decay. Look for broken pieces of paint and scraps of roofing. This may be a sign that your roof needs some attention.

- Inside Walls - Watch for discolored plasterboard or cracked paint and peeling wallpaper indoors. This could be a sign of a leaky roof.

* What kind of preventive maintenance should I do for my roof?

Since roofs are constantly exposed to the elements, most roof damage results from weather and pollutants in the atmosphere. To save yourself big repair costs or even having to replace your roof before its time, you should perform a general inspection on your roof at least twice a year, checking for mildew, mold, rust, trapped water, and possible damage, and make minor repairs if necessary. That is the best preventive maintenance you can do.

Also, be sure to keep your roof clean. Remove any debris that may accumulate on it and clean out the roof gutters regularly. Also, repair any weather damage as soon as it occurs.

Rae Fakner is editor of Roofing FAQ, the online guide to Roofing. He also writes Roofing FAQ's for PrettyGreatAnswers.com

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Solar Roofing Shingles

Find out how to generate power on the roof of your house with solar roofing shingles.

No matter where you?re located, the price of electricity, the available sunshine and incentives by local and state governments have made it very appealing to install solar roofing shingles on your home or business.

In the beginning, solar power from the roof was considered too expensive for most homeowners. The initial expense has been reduced and often your electrical company will pay you for any excess power generated by your solar roofing shingles.

Solar roofing shingles are shingles that look very much like ordinary shingles but they allow your roof to generate solar electric power. Solar roofing shingles install just like traditional asphalt singles. Once you hook them to your home?s electrical system, you?re generating solar power that can drastically reduce your electricity bill.

Solar roofing shingles don?t require any additional support structures. They can withstand the elements of weather just as normal shingles. Some will even handle up to 80 mph wind loads.

Solar Roofing Shingles

If you?re wonder how they look, they?re designed to be aesthetically pleasing and can be integrated into almost any architectural style. They won?t stick out and look like an intrusion on the roof of your home. It doesn?t matter whether you?re remodeling or doing a new construction, solar roofing shingles are available for your project.

Most solar roofing shingles are made for a twenty year power output and do come with warranties. They are lightweight and can be installed directly on fire-resistant roofing underlayment.

If you?re planning to use solar roofing shingles, be sure to check with your local and state governments. Many offer assistance and other types of incentives for those choosing to use and produce solar energy. Some tax credit may even be available.

While the cost of solar roofing shingles is still higher than traditional shingles, with the incentives and the reduction of your electric bill you should be able to re-coup your investment in a short period of time. It?s well worth the effort to harness the power of the sun by using solar roofing shingles.

This article was written by Gregg Hicks of http://www.reliableremodeler.com which provides Internet-based home improvement information and services. Offering homeowners a simple, quick, and free way to access, qualified home improvement remodeling contractors

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Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Soundproofing from loud upstairs neighbors in condo or apartment

One of the most common soundproofing questions I hear most is "How do I soundproof my condo or apartment from those noisy neighbors who live above?" Generally the most annoying noise is what is known as "foot fall" or "impact noise" Impact noise is noise that is caused by heavy walking on the floor of the neighbor above. It can also be caused by chairs dragging across a hardwood floor above or simply the impact of a fork or plate that is dropped on the floor above.

Impact noise is transmitted through the structural members of the floor/ceiling assembly and generally travels down through the floor joists and into the ceiling below at lightening speed. Impact noise is the most annoying noise you will ever have to deal in your condo or apartment. Sometimes it can actually feel like you neighbor is living in your unit. Sound familiar?

When dealing with impact noise, it is always best to completely remove the existing ceiling and start from scratch. This can be a real chore especially if your ceiling is plaster and not drywall. (For plaster ceiling consult local drywall contractor) Once the ceiling has been removed, it is then recommended that you fill the joist cavities with sound batt insulation such as rock wool, mineral wool, or cotton batt insulation. RoxulÔ and GreensoundÔ are common brand names for these batt materials. It is always best to completely fill the cavities with one of these materials, but if you don't have enough of these materials you can always fill the remainder of the cavity with common fiberglass insulation. Just make sure that the first layer of insulation (the layer against the sub floor above) is cotton, mineral wool, or rock wool.

Now that your joist cavities are filled, you will then want to "float your ceiling" on sound clips and furring channels. Float my ceiling? What are you talking about dude? I'm glad you asked; a floated ceiling is a ceiling that is connected to the ceiling joists using a device called a sound clip. Sound clips isolate the joists from the new drywall that will become your new ceiling. Here's how it works. You will screw the sound clips onto the bottom face of the joists and they will run parallel to the joists. The sound clips are then fitted with a metal furring channel also known as "hat channel" because it looks like a Dick Tracy hat if you look at it from the side. Furring channels come in 20 and 25 gauge steel, you can use either gauge with the AmericlipÔ sound clips. The furring channels will run perpendicular to the joists as they are fitted into the sound clips. Once you have all of your rows of sound clips and furring channel installed, you are ready to drywall. There is a trick to floating a ceiling and that is to make sure that your new ceiling drywall does not touch the adjoining walls and is completely independent of the ceiling joists.

You will screw in your new drywall using self-tapping drywall screws that will screw through the drywall and into the metal furring channels. Once you are finished screwing the drywall to the furring channels, you will make sure that you have maintained a ?" gap around the entire perimeter of the new ceiling. This gap will be filled in with acoustical caulk that is designed to remain pliant throughout the life of the caulk. Now that the new floated ceiling is installed and you have caulked in the ?" gap around the perimeter you'll then tape mud and paint the new ceiling as normal.

Now if you are looking for the ultimate in soundproofing from impact noise as well as airborne noise from above, it is recommended that you float 2 layers of 5/8" drywall on the sound clips and furring channel, and between the layers of drywall you will apply a product called "Green GlueÔ". Green GlueÔ is a visco elastic damping compound that when applied between 2 layers of drywall or any rigid wall board, acts to deaden both layers of wall board thus not allowing the drywall to resonate or transmit sound. When the sound is unable to pass through the drywall it dissipates rapidly and turns into heat energy.

To sum this up, the absolute best way to soundproof your ceiling from the noisy neighbors above is to float the ceiling using the Sound clips and furring channel, and then installing 2 layers of 5/8" drywall suspended from the sound clips and furring channels with Green Glue sandwiched between the 2 layers of drywall.

Now if space is an issue or money is a concern, you can get some great soundproofing and impact protection by simply adding another layer of 5/8" drywall to your existing ceiling, applying the Green GlueÔ to this new layer of drywall and then simply screwing the drywall over top of you existing drywall or plaster ceiling. This method will not be quite as effective as the complete floated ceiling system using Green GlueÔ, but if you are on a budget and need effective protection from the impact noise from above, Green GlueÔ is a great way to go.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site

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Wednesday, March 5, 2008

Starting A Roofing Business - A Rewarding Opportunity For You?

Roofers are some of the people I respect the most. Their jobs are very important, because if they do not do a good job putting a roof on your house, then you will have all sorts of problems. A roof helps to keep the heating and air conditioning inside the house, and also most importantly keeps the wind, rain, and snow outside of the house. Without a good roof, your investment in your house will be washed away in no time. (Pun intended) However if you have noticed, there are not many roofing companies out there. I believe that the reason for this is that it is not easy to start a roofing business.

One of the main problems with starting a roofing business is the skills needed to be able to successfully put a new roof on a house. Another problem is that these skills are usually not taught in any school, so you have to find someone that is experienced in this area, and mentor under them for some time before you are able to perform the task on your own. Good employees can also be very hard to find to work in the roofing business. The job is very demanding, and has to be performed in extreme heat and extreme cold, so it takes a special type of person to be tough enough to perform this job.

As if these problems were not bad enough, another obstacle to starting a roofing business is trying to acquire enough capital to get started. Since many of these roofing businesses fail for the reasons above, banks and other lenders are sometimes wary about loaning money to a startup roofing business. Even if you are one of the lucky roofing businesses to get funded, you still have the problem of developing a customer base. Many consumers will not hire a roofing business unless they have quite a bit of experience and many references. It is hard to get experience and references if you can not get a job in the first place.

However if you can get past all of these obstacles, then starting a roofing business can prove to be very profitable. As the saying goes, reward is in direct proportion to difficulty and/or risk. If you're interested in starting a roofing business, and you do it right, you could be on your way to building a very successful business!

Visit our Roofing Franchise website to learn more about starting a roofing business.

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Tuesday, February 26, 2008

The Basic Principals of Soundproofing

Today?s homes are louder than ever and everyone would like things quieter. The question is what to do? Obviously no one wants to spend big bucks on soundproofing, only to spend time and money in vain and still hear plenty of noise.

Sound isolation is science, not magic, and as such it is possible to outline a foundation of basic principles that define soundproofing in any given situation. There are just a few basic principles that govern the sound isolation of any wall, floor or ceiling.

Principle #1: Mass Mass impedes the transmission of sound in a simple way - it's harder for the sound to shake a very heavy thing than a very light thing, no different than saying it's harder to push a shopping cart full of lead bricks than an empty cart. However, to make large changes in performance you have to make very large changes in mass.

Principle #2: Decoupling Think of a typical wall. You have a stud with drywall on each side. If you hammer the drywall in room #1, that vibration will conduct through the drywall, into the stud, and directly into the drywall of room #2, where it becomes sound again. This is a very rigid, coupled wall, excellent for sound conduction.

De-coupling is very simply disconnecting this rigid connection by inserting a space or something resilient like neoprene rubber between one layer of drywall and the stud. Products are commercially available to do this such as resilient sound clips and resilient channel.

If you are dealing with new construction you should really consider staggered stud or double stud construction for rooms that need isolating. It is generally less expensive and higher performing that the commercial products mentioned above.

These techniques all function by inhibiting the movement of sound from one side of the wall to the other through mechanical paths (like studs or joists). Instead, the vibration has to pass through the air cavity between the studs, where some of it will be lost, and through the insulation/absorbing material, where (at higher frequencies) much of it will be lost.

Principle #3: Absorption This is accomplished with simple insulation such as cellulose, fiberglass and mineral fiber (wool). Exotic ($$) insulations are also available. Foams are not a good product to use for absorbing sound. Foam is excellent for thermal purposes, but not acoustic.

Installing insulation in a wall or ceiling cavity increases the sound loss due by eliminating/removing/destroying some sound. An important note is that insulation loses its effectiveness at very low frequencies. Put some fiberglass in front of a speaker at home and you?ll hear the sound drop. Put that same insulation in front of a subwoofer and you might not hear any difference at all.

Insulation is important, but not very effective if it is the only technique used.

Principle #4: Damping This doesn?t mean moistening your wall. To damp something is to reduce its ability to conduct a vibration. A steel pipe conducts sound well; it is not well damped. Drywall, subflooring and most building materials are not well damped. There are damping materials known as visco-elastics that can be very easily and economically applied between sheets of standard drywall and subflooring and are highly effective.

Principal #5: Sealing Make sure to caulk around all openings such as outlets and windows. Seal doors with weatherstrip. Install duct liner in your ducts. These all help to keep sound from entering or exiting.

To learn more about soundproofing visit http://www.greengluecompany.com

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Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Quality Online Roofing Resources

I recently had the need to come up with relatively useful definitions of some roofing terms and also some guides and opinions regarding roofing methods. I stumbled upon some useful online resources that provide the things that I need and also may also be helpful to other users out there.

Here is a list and some descriptions of some of the sites I have found:

1. Garlandco.com - It is a roofing company that has been in business since 1895. What generally caught my attention was their PowerPoint presentation that provides an overview of the most common types of roofing systems that are available in the commercial market place today. Other information include in the presentation are brief description, history and application of each system and lastly, the advantages and disadvantages of each roofing system.

2. Roofing.com - It is a forum all about roofing. Its main feature is a forum area where there are active members. All posts are related to roofing and most members are highly knowledgeable when it comes to roofing both in theory and in practice.

It also has a Knowledge base area wherein forum members can give inputs like answers to frequently asked questions and some roofing guides. Within this area, you can find the definitions to most roofing terms.

The site also has a section wherein you can view the number of roofing jobs available per state. It also has a directory of roofing companies categorized by state. All in all, the site is quite user-friendly and highly informative. Most of my friends also think that it is one good online resource site if the subject is roofing.

3. Roofersreview.com - Is a highly informative site dedicated to roofing. Here you can find local roofers through browsing photos of their works. Also, this site has been suggested to me by members of Roofing.com. They say the pictures they upload to this site help them get quick answers from other users of the forum.

I would include the other sites that I find useful in another article which I may finish by next week. Until then, I hope you get the maximum benefit that you can from the following sites.

Jasper Bautista is a Webmarketing Specialist of Agents of Value who is currently handling Roofing.com

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Monday, January 28, 2008

Childproofing your home

One of the most important steps you can take to prepare for a baby is childproofing your home. Little hands will get into things you never even thought of, so being prepared is critical to your child's safety. Here are some areas of your home that need attention to get you started on your childproofing project.

? Electrical Outlets - You can buy inexpensive covers to keep little fingers out of your outlets, or simply put a piece of furniture in front of them. ? Cords - Be they electrical cords or cords for blinds or draperies, they are a risk. Cords from blinds or draperies are a choking hazard, and electrical cords can cause a shock, or can cause baby to pull something heavy (such as the lamp at the other end of that cord) down on top of them ? Rickety furniture - Be certain that you don't have unstable furniture around. When your baby begins pulling up, he could pull the furniture right down on top of him. Sometimes it's necessary to attach furniture, such as top heavy bookcases to the wall. ? Plants - Some houseplants are poisonous, so be certain to keep plants out of baby's reach. ? Radiators - If you live in an older home with radiators, you will need to put barriers in front of them or radiator covers over them during winter months. ? Fireplace - Be certain your fireplace is equipped with a grill or glass doors to protect your child's little fingers. ? Stairs - Install baby gates to keep your little one from tumbling down the stairs. ? Cabinet doors and drawers - Install childproof latches so that your baby is unable to open drawers and doors, particularly those where you store sharp objects or cleaning supplies. ? Railings - Be certain that any railings in your home, such as those on your stairs, have no more than a five inch gap between any vertical posts. You'd be amazed at how easily a baby's head can get stuck.

All of these are important steps to readying your home for those days when baby starts crawling around. But, probably the most important thing you can do is to learn to keep your everyday things put away. Items that adults use regularly, like scissors, pins, coins, buttons and letter openers can all be very hazardous to a baby. It's going to take some getting used to, but with some preparation, you can organize your life so that your everyday activities don't put your baby at risk.

Sarah is a 41 year old wife and mother of two boys and one girl. She spent many years as a manager in the corporate world, and gave it up to be a stay at home mom.

Go to http://www.infantresources.com now and get her incredible baby minicourse - absolutely free

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Friday, January 11, 2008

Childproofing Your Home Office

Patterson

Childproofing Your Office

If you are working from home while the kids are there, your kids will be in your office with you, at least some of the time. This way you can keep an eye on them, besides, they want to be where Mom or Dad is anyway. Childproofing your office makes it a safe place for your child and a safe place for your business.

If you have very young ones, literally crawl around your office to get a perspective of the enticements and dangers to your child. Older children are able to follow any office rules you lay down, but even they can be tempted by some new item. Evaluate your office from their view and make changes before your child or your work is jeopardized.

- Move or cushion furniture with sharp corners and secure
heavy furniture that can be toppled
- Lock drawers
- Put outlet covers on any open outlets
- Hide cords that beg to be pulled or tripped over. Use cord
organizers or run them under special cord mats or behind
furniture
- Cover disk drives and other enticing openings with tape or
cardboard attached with Velcro
- Put away the small stuff like paper clips, rubber bands,
and staples.
- Put away the sharp objects as well, scissors, push pins,
pencils, etc.
- Set up a screensaver with password on your computer
- Keep objects you don't want touched in less accessible
areas: on shelves, on filing cabinets, in closets
- Pack books tightly in the bookshelf if you don't want little
ones pulling them out.
- Install shelves on the walls to place items above reach
- Purchase plastic bins with lids for storing supplies.
Colored bins obscure the contents inside and provide less
temptation.
- Create a filing system that keeps papers filed away.
Desktop trays or vertical wall hanging folders work well
for in and out boxes.

Tracey Dishman Patterson
tranndee@parentshomeoffice.com
The Parent's Home Office
www.parentshomeoffice.com

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Tuesday, December 4, 2007

Metal Roofing

 

For generations people have returned home, day after day, to enjoy the peace and quite of their own abode. The phrase “a roof over your head” highlights the importance of the topmost surface of any establishment. It cannot be denied that a roof is one of the most important components of any house.

Metal roofs are fast growing in popularity, replacing the traditional asbestos roofs. Metal roofs have a great capacity to contract and expand with heat along with providing protection against hurricanes, winds, snow, hailstorms and heat waves.

Metal is fire resistant, compared to many of the roofing options available. This makes it a popular choice amongst people residing in wildfire and forest fire regions. Metal is considerably more durable than asphalt tiles and can last anywhere between 30-60 years. Along with a long life, this roofing is subject to minimum crumbling, breakdown and corrosion.

Metal roofing is a popular choice amongst homeowners as it also reflects a considerable amount of the sun’s energy. This in turn may help people save money throughout the life of the roof in respect to power and heating costs. If people opt for a light-colored roof, it enables about 20% reduction in the air conditioning operating costs during the summer. In selected states, metal roofing reduces the homeowner’s insurance.

Metal roofing can be constructed from a high proportion of recycled material, which makes it popular with environmental activists and advocates. It is also much lighter than other tiles and coverings and puts minimum tension and pressure on beams and walls of the house.

After selecting the right kind of metal, the homeowner can coat the surface in any color. In comparison to other typical grids, people can use them in vertical designs, counterbalance rows, small tiles or outsized panes.

Metal roofing proves to be not only an economical option, but also lends durability and aesthetic beauty to the home.

Roofing provides detailed information on Roofing, Metal Roofing, Roofing Contractor, Roofing Material and more. Roofing is affiliated with Asphalt Shingles.

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