Green Glue instead of fiberglass insulation for soundproofing

Old School soundproofing still believes that batt insulation is a good soundproofing agent. There are some good sound batt insulations out there such as Roxul AFB and Bonded logic's bonded cotton insulation and they work well for both soundproofing and thermal protection, however no batt insulation is strong enough to stand alone as the sole soundproofing material in a wall ceiling or floor assembly. If you can afford a good batt insulation I always encourage it, but if you are soundproofing as ceiling and are not really concerned about the thermal aspects of the ceiling then I feel adding drywall pieces cut to fit perfectly into the joist cavities and screwed to the sub floor above would be much more effective than any batt insulation. Now to super charge this application I recommend that before you screw the pieces of drywall to the sub floor you apply Green Glue sound dampening compound to the back of the drywall pieces prior to screwing them to the bottom of the sub floor. Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that is taking the soundproofing industry by storm. It comes in caulk tubes and is applied using a large quart size caulk gun. Basically you would cut the pieces of drywall to fit snuggly between the joist cavities. You would the liberally apply the Green Glue to the backside of the cut drywall and then screw it to the bottom of the sub floor. The Green Glue will be sandwiched between the drywall and the bottom of the sub floor. The tighter you screw the drywall down, the better the soundproofing will be. In essence, the pieces of drywall sporting the Green Glue in their backsides with become a most effective sound dampening system that will dampen the impact noise from above long before it is able to be transmitted into the joists and ultimately into the ceiling below. Now, is more better in this case? Absolutely, if you are able to double or triple the Green Glued layer of drywall you will indeed increase the dampening ability of the drywall and the sub floor and add greatly to the soundproofing endeavor. Once you have installed your layers of Green Glued drywall pieces into the joist cavities, now would be a good time to install your sound or thermal batt insulation. Now for our finished drywall ceiling, I recommend that we spend the money for 2 layers of 5/8" drywall. You will screw in your first layer of drywall directly to the ceiling joists. Now your second layer will be installed directly over top of the first layer however, you guessed it, I recommend that you apply 3 tubes of Green Glue to each 4' X 8' sheet of drywall that you put up. Once you have finished with the double drywall using the Green Glue, you should immediately detect a lack of annoying noise coming from the people above. You have soundproofed your ceiling and your neighbors don't even have a clue that there was a problem there. How awesome is that? Read more about Green Glue and soundproofing walls, ceilings and floors in subsequent articles, for now this is Dr. Bob....Out!!!

Dr. Bob O. Soundproofing America, Inc. Senior Technical Director Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079 E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com Website: http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

The Basic Principals of Soundproofing

Today?s homes are louder than ever and everyone would like things quieter. The question is what to do? Obviously no one wants to spend big bucks on soundproofing, only to spend time and money in vain and still hear plenty of noise.

Sound isolation is science, not magic, and as such it is possible to outline a foundation of basic principles that define soundproofing in any given situation. There are just a few basic principles that govern the sound isolation of any wall, floor or ceiling.

Principle #1: Mass Mass impedes the transmission of sound in a simple way - it's harder for the sound to shake a very heavy thing than a very light thing, no different than saying it's harder to push a shopping cart full of lead bricks than an empty cart. However, to make large changes in performance you have to make very large changes in mass.

Principle #2: Decoupling Think of a typical wall. You have a stud with drywall on each side. If you hammer the drywall in room #1, that vibration will conduct through the drywall, into the stud, and directly into the drywall of room #2, where it becomes sound again. This is a very rigid, coupled wall, excellent for sound conduction.

De-coupling is very simply disconnecting this rigid connection by inserting a space or something resilient like neoprene rubber between one layer of drywall and the stud. Products are commercially available to do this such as resilient sound clips and resilient channel.

If you are dealing with new construction you should really consider staggered stud or double stud construction for rooms that need isolating. It is generally less expensive and higher performing that the commercial products mentioned above.

These techniques all function by inhibiting the movement of sound from one side of the wall to the other through mechanical paths (like studs or joists). Instead, the vibration has to pass through the air cavity between the studs, where some of it will be lost, and through the insulation/absorbing material, where (at higher frequencies) much of it will be lost.

Principle #3: Absorption This is accomplished with simple insulation such as cellulose, fiberglass and mineral fiber (wool). Exotic ($$) insulations are also available. Foams are not a good product to use for absorbing sound. Foam is excellent for thermal purposes, but not acoustic.

Installing insulation in a wall or ceiling cavity increases the sound loss due by eliminating/removing/destroying some sound. An important note is that insulation loses its effectiveness at very low frequencies. Put some fiberglass in front of a speaker at home and you?ll hear the sound drop. Put that same insulation in front of a subwoofer and you might not hear any difference at all.

Insulation is important, but not very effective if it is the only technique used.

Principle #4: Damping This doesn?t mean moistening your wall. To damp something is to reduce its ability to conduct a vibration. A steel pipe conducts sound well; it is not well damped. Drywall, subflooring and most building materials are not well damped. There are damping materials known as visco-elastics that can be very easily and economically applied between sheets of standard drywall and subflooring and are highly effective.

Principal #5: Sealing Make sure to caulk around all openings such as outlets and windows. Seal doors with weatherstrip. Install duct liner in your ducts. These all help to keep sound from entering or exiting.

To learn more about soundproofing visit http://www.greengluecompany.com

Extend the Life of Your Roofing--Gutter Care in 3 Easy Steps

Replacing your roof is expensive. Extend the life of your roofing with gutter care. The gutters and downspouts of your roof are the primary protection against water damage to your roof and your home. Allowing leaves and debris to accumulate in the gutters not only renders them less effective but can damage your gutters and ultimately your roofing.

Gutter maintenance can be a dirty job, but somebody's got to do it--really. Regular gutter maintenance is vital for keeping your gutters clean and working properly. Keep your house and roofing safe and dry through regular roofing and gutter care with these three easy steps.

Clean Out

Gutters need to be cleaned every year to remove leaves and other debris from the system. Use a sturdy ladder on steady footing to help you in your roofing and gutter care. Many ladders feature spans designed specifically to place you at the perfect distance from your gutters without resting or leaning against them, which could damage your gutters.

If you have gutter covers or screens and leaves have made their way underneath them, remove the covers before you begin to clean out your gutters to ensure that they're thoroughly clean. Carefully remove leaves, sticks and all other debris from your gutters and roof. This wet mulch may have already begun to decompose in your gutters. You can bag the debris as yard waste or trash or add it to your compost pile. Stubborn debris may require a tool, like a barbeque brush, to remove.

Rinse Out

Once the gutters are debris-free, use a garden hose to rinse them. This method is also useful in finding leaks or detecting clogged downspouts. A high pressure stream of water may be able to remove clogs, but it may also take shaking the downspout or even using a broomstick or dowel to remove it.

Once your gutters a fully clean, protect them with gutter screens. Screens keep debris from building up in gutters and drains, but leaves can still accumulate on top of the screens. Even with gutter screens, regular roofing and gutter care is still necessary. The leaves that accumulate on your roof can create weak spots and introduce rotting and leaking to your roof, both of which can require expensive repairs.

Check Out

Once your gutters are clean and protected, inspect downspouts, pipes, and gutters for rust, warping, damage and other problems. Check all connections along the pipes as well as the connections to the house to ensure that they are sturdy. Replace damaged connections or pipe sections to keep your gutters working optimally. You can patch holes in your gutters with roofing cement. A metal patch is necessary for larger holes, but these fixes can save you the expense of replacing an entire section of gutter--or your roof.

As part of your annual roofing and gutter check up, you should inspect the overall condition of the roof as well. You can do this by using a ladder to climb on the roof or using an attic ladder to get up close and personal from the inside of the roof.

Inspecting your roof from the inside out is probably a better alternative to keep you from falling through any extremely weak spots on your roof. Always exercise caution on roofs and in attics.

Look for discoloration, dampness, and other warning signs of water damage. If you do detect signs of water damage, immediately check the wood, insulation or other surrounding materials for signs of mold. Mold can be removed with chemicals, but extensive mold problems should always be handled by a professional to make sure that all the mold is contained.

Termites and other pests might also be a problem. Check for potential rodent and bird nests while you're inspecting your roof.

With these useful tips, you'll be able to extend the life of your roofing through gutter care and maintenance. Remember to always exercise caution when working on a ladder and use other safety measures to keep yourself out of harm's way as you protect your house from water damage.

Jordan McCollum is a content writer for 10x Marketing, an Internet marketing firm. To learn more about the best tools for roofing/gutter care, visit LittleGiantSales.com today

Classic Roofing

There are quite a few advantages to using roofing shingles over other types of roofing design. While roofing needs vary depending on weather conditions in the part of the world you're in, shingled roofs are the most common type to be found in most of the United States and Canada.

Shingles are basically small roofing tiles which are used to cover a roof. They are stacked in an overlapping fashion across the length of the roof, allowing rain to slide off easily. One of the biggest advantages to using shingles over, say, a single metal sheet (a common roofing technique in some Asian countries) is that it provides the house with better ventilation and heat management.

In the summer, hot gases, with their tendency to rise, will seep out of a house via the gaps in the shingles, leaving the interior of the house cooler. In the winter time, however, the shingles become packed with snow, allowing the roof and the snow itself to become a heat-retaining layer of insulation which helps keep the interior of the house warm.

Shingled roofs are also generally sturdier than single-sheet or standard concrete roofs. The tiles are tough yet, because the roof itself is not made of a single piece of material, the overall effect is one of flexibility under pressure. Where a solid piece roof would crack under sufficient weight, shingled roofs provide a certain amount of "yield" under pressure that keeps the roof intact.

Lastly, one of the nicest advantages of roofing shingles comes during repair-time. Whereas one-piece roofs need to be overhauled almost entirely for repairs and can get expensive, shingles are small, easy to install, and cheap to replace if they get broken.

There are, however, two major drawbacks to using shingled roofs that make them inapplicable to some climates. The first drawback to shingled roofs is that their tiles are more vulnerable to thermal stress. Thermal stress does not mean merely extremes of heat and cold, but rather refers to sudden and drastic changes in temperature.

Being composed of small tiles, sudden changes in temperature from high heat to cold or vice versa leave the shingles more brittle and prone to damage, sometimes even actually causing them to suddenly crack under the rapid temperature change. This makes shingles inapplicable in certain tropical climes where a blazingly hot tropic day can suddenly be punctuated by an ice-cold rainstorm.

Daniel Roshard is a interior designer fascinated by garden architecture, he is currently studying interior design integration to public parks and gardens. Daniel is writing Roofing and Roof construction reviews for http://roofing.zupatips.com at ZupaTips.com