Roofing Contractor



             


Saturday, March 8, 2008

Soundproofing a condo or apartment from upstairs neighbors.

How do I soundproof my condo or apartment from my noisy neighbors upstairs? This is by far the most asked question I hear on a daily basis. It is a question asked by prominent architects, engineers, major developers, and contractors. We are now finding that this is also of major concern of individual homeowners who rent part of their house to tenants. Many factors need to be considered when assessing an upstairs noise issue. The first question you should ask is simply this, is the problem impact noise, or airborne noise (TV's, Stereos, telephones etc.) coming down from above.

Nine times out of ten, impact noise is the main concern. What is impact noise? It is the noise caused by people or animals walking across the floor above (generally hardwood). This type of noise is considered to be structure borne noise and is one of the most difficult noises there is to soundproof from. Impact noise is basically sound that travels directly through the joisting structure from the floor above, directly into the hard mounted ceiling below. Another term for this is known as "foot fall "noise. Impact noise travels through the floor joists structure at speeds of over 1200 times greater than the transmission of sound traveling through ambient air. Keep in mind that most home joist systems as well as studded walls are generally 16 inches on center, so not only do you get the speed of the impact noise shooting downward, but the perfectly spaced joists act as tuning forks thus causing the sound to sustain (last longer) compounding the impact problem. The best and most effective way to stop impact noise from above is to isolate the joist structure and the floor above (which is generally hardwood) from the ceiling below. This can be accomplished in a variety of ways.

The most common is to float (suspend on acoustical sound clips or resilient channels) the ceiling using either resilient isolation clips and furring channels (hat channel) or the most common method of floating, RC-1 (resilient channel). The good, the bad, and the ugly of both these methods will be discussed in depth. First we have the industry standard, which is RC-1 or resilient channel. This is a flanged Z channel (generally with only one flange that attaches to the joist) and a larger flange to support the floated drywall ceiling. RC-1 can be purchased from a drywall supply company, or a contractors supply house.

The resilient channels are usually attached perpendicular to the joists and the rows are evenly spaced approximately 2' to 3' apart. The longer flange (of resilient channels) in a ceiling application will all face the same direction to obtain maximum resilience in the new ceiling assembly. Remember, that the longer flange is the one the drywall screws into. Always use screws when you drywall, never use nails. Once the RC-1 is properly installed across the entire ceiling, you are ready to drywall. The new drywall will be screwed directly through the drywall and into the resilient channel's (longer) 1" flange. You will use 1 to 1 ?" self-tapping drywall screws or in rare cases, sheet metal screws. If the resilient (floated ceiling) is installed as per manufacturers instructions, there will be approximately a ?" gap around the entire perimeter of the new floated ceiling. The floated ceiling must never make direct contact with the adjoining walls. This is NOT negotiable folks. The ?" gap is then filled with an acoustical caulking, (OSI 175 is a good caulk for this application) and then finally the new ceiling will be taped, mudded, and painted just like a like a hard attached joist mounted drywall installation.

The caulk is the interface between the resilient ceiling and the adjoining walls. There you have it, the common mans floated ceiling. Now if you are really serious about soundproofing your ceiling, you have the sound clip and furring channel method of floating. This installation is quite similar to the RC-1 installation, however, the sound clips system will more than double the soundproofing and impact isolation protection of a perfectly installed RC-1 system. Basically you will need one sound clip for every 4 sq ft of ceiling area. For example, if your ceiling is 400 sq. ft. total, you will need 100 sound clips to complete the installation.

Check with the manufacturers installations instructions for more detailed installation information. Once you have the sound clips screwed to the joists, you will then snap in the furring channel. We haven't talked much about metal furring channels or "hat" channel, as they are commonly called, so let me briefly describe this material. Furring channel, or hat channel is a galvanized steel channel that is 7/8" in height and measures 2 3/8" from flange to flange. When using furring channels in conjunction with sound clips, you always want to purchase the 25 gauge channels as opposed to the 20 gauge, which is too stiff for this application. The furring channel will be compressed by hand and will snap perfectly into the joist mounted sound clips. The channel rows will be spaced from 2' to 3' apart (check installation instructions).

The first row will begin about 4" from the adjoining wall and then each row will be spaced from 2' to 3' apart. Now comes the fun part! You will screw the new drywall directly into the furring channel, keeping the screw as close to the center of the hat channel as possible. If the drywall meets directly in the middle of a channel, make sure to stagger the screws down the length of the drywalls (alternate them one each side of the seam). Now, just like with the RC-1 installation, you must maintain a ?" gap around the perimeter of the newly floated ceiling assembly where the drywall does not touch the adjoining walls. Once again, this area will be sealed with the OSI-175 acoustical caulking material, and you will tape, mud, and paint the ceiling as usual. There you have it folks, professional sound isolation at a fraction of the cost that the "Big Boys" charge. A good analogy of the floated ceiling method is to visualize your ceiling as being like a trampoline. The new ceiling must not contact the adjoining walls and thus it is free to do its resilient thing exclusively. Keep in mind that the impact isolation is accomplished at the sound clip and joist connection where there is a thick neoprene rubber grommet on the clip that breaks the circuit between the sub floor above and the newly floated ceiling.

Lastly, if you are able to float 2 layers of drywall on the sound clips, it is recommended that you use Green Glue sound dampening compound between the 2 layers of drywall. I hope this article has been informative and gives you hope that you can indeed soundproof you apartment or condo from those stomping neighbors upstairs.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

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Thursday, January 31, 2008

Leftover 4th Of July Fireworks Are Great For Bomb Proofing The Horses

The Goal

I was working with Vego and Gemini today. I have been working on desensitizing them to loud noises. The final goal is 1) to be able to shoot a gun while sitting on their backs and 2) to be able to ride them down a street filled with people, flying streamers, loud noises, fireworks, etc. Basically, I am trying to bomb proof my horses.

Look What I Found

4th of July had just passed and I still had fireworks. When I was younger I would have never had any firework left over. That would be a sin. I guess I have slowed down a bit and it is not so important to light every firework off or see how many I could light at a time before I had to run away from the eruption of flames, sparks and explosions I had initiated at ground zero. Because of my new found self control, we had some Black Cats left over. These are the little fireworks that just explode and make a big bang. I had 2 packs left with 100 firecrackers in each. So, what should I do with these firecrackers? I could save them till next year. No way! I recalled reading many forum entries were people had posted topics about the 4th of July and how the fireworks scared their horses. I would reply and tell them that they should desensitize their horse to these noises. So, that is just what I decided to do with my horses.

4th of July All Over Again for Vego and Gemini

I decided to start my lesson with Vego. Gemini was in a holding stall next to the arena where I was working with Vego so she could hear and see everything going on. I had a rope halter and lead rope on Vego. I then started to walk Vego around the outside of the arena. While doing this my 11 year old son was in the center of the arena. He started to light the firecrackers one by one. Bang! The horse was a little bit startled but we just kept walking. Again the firecracker went off and Vego jumped but we just kept walking. My son continued to light firecrackers one by one and I continued to walk around the arena circling in closer to the center. When we eventually circled to the center of the arena we stopped. One by one my son threw firecrackers all around the horse. He did not throw them so close that it could hurt the horse but rather out in front of the horse or behind the horse 6-10 feet away on either side. Near the end of the lesson, in the center of the arena, Vego was not bothered by the firecrackers. He would not even flinch as they exploded.

I repeated the same procedure with Gemini. She did equally as well. As a grand finally we lit off a string of about 20 Black Cats while walking the horses around the arena. They had no problem with noise and continued to walk at a relaxed pace.

Conclusion

This was not the first desensitizing exercise that I had done these horses. The results I had during the firecracker session went very smooth because I have at least one desensitizing exercises every time we have a training session.Todd Mera is a Biochemist that has always had a love for horses. Todd started training horses in his 30s. He has worked with and trained many horse starting from birth and older problem horses. http://www.EverythingEquus.com

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Friday, January 25, 2008

More Tips on Puppy Proofing Your Home and Making It Safe for Your Puppy

As with toddlers, puppies seem to put everything into their mouths. This is due to that insatiable curiosity and boundless energy they seem to have. Just as with toddlers, you must remove small objects from your puppy's reach as you puppy proof your home. Think of all the things you would not want a toddler getting and move it higher or into storage.

The trick for toddlers is anything that can fit down the cardboard tube of a toilet paper roll is too small and that can be a good rule of thumb for your puppy as well. Things like loose change on the table, too small toys, jewelry, needles, marbles, etc. must be removed. And remember your puppy keeps growing so what is a safe location one day might not be next week.

In your effort to puppy proof your home, think of things you do not want your puppy chewing on and remove those. It is almost proverbial that a puppy will chew on your shoes and socks. You might think it's funny or cute now, but you won't be thinking that when he is a full-grown adult. Not only is chewing your shoes and socks a potential health hazard to your puppy, it can get expensive replacing the chewed up items. Remove the temptation now as you puppy proof your home.

Think of the rooms in your home from your puppy's perspective. The bathroom may not seem so dangerous to you, but that trash may hold some items that will put his health into danger such as dental floss, cleaning rags or even feminine products. Keep the toilet lid shut. You wouldn't have that potential drowning hazard available to a toddler, so don't leave it available to your puppy. Best to keep that door shut.

And keep this danger in mind when surveying your kitchen. The kitchen trash can pose such a hazard as well not to mention the mess your puppy can make. Be sure your trashcan is substantial enough when you are making your home puppy proof that your puppy can't knock it over.

Another hazard to consider when looking to puppy proof your home is an open window. If you have windows you keep open that somehow your puppy can get to, you can see that he might easily fall out that window. If it is a high placed window, if might suffer severe injury or even death. A low window could let him get out into the great outdoors where he might get lost, be run over or run into something much bigger than him.

Yet another thing to consider when you puppy proof your home is things your puppy can ingest that might be harmful to him. Too much candy and certain houseplants can make your puppy very sick. Remove the candy dish from the coffee table and move the houseplants where he can't reach.

When you puppy proof your home, remember to take a look around from your puppy's perspective. Things that are "just there" for you can be dangerous for your puppy both from a health standpoint as well as from a training aspect. Don't set your puppy up for bad habits simply because you didn't take the time to puppy proof your home.

Visit our Puppy Training website at http://ezpuppytraining.com/ for a free course on "Welcoming Your New Puppy Home and Puppy Training". Find more puppy training and care tips at our website ezpuppytraining.com.

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Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Rodent Proofing Your Home

It's that time of year where rats and mice are apt to enter our homes. Lets talk a bit about their abilities and senses first.

Rats and mice cannot see very good beyond 3 or 4 feet but have a very good sense of motion up to 30 to 50 feet away and for the most part they are color blind. Rodents are most active at night.

These rodents have a very good sense of taste so baits may be rejected by them if they are contaminated with insecticides or odors from other chemicals. Even touching baits after smoking a cigarette will make these rodents to shy away from the baits.

Rats and mice also have a good sense of smell. They mark pathways with urine and use their sense of smell to recognize the odors of the pathway to and from food sources.

Their hearing is much better than humans and make noises in various situations such as mating.

Rodents have a highly developed sense of touch due to their sensitive body hairs. They rely heavily on touch and smell to guide them through movements. The territories of most rats are between 50 and 150 feet from the nest. For mice the average territories within buildings are between 10 and 30 feet.

Rodent Proofing Your Home

The best way to control mice and rats is to make it impossible for them to enter your home. That can be difficult with mice because they can pass through an opening only 3/8 inch thick. In general, all openings greater than 1/4 inch thick should be sealed for mice and all openings greater than 1/2 inch should be sealed for rats.

Check all openings around utility lines that enter your home, around service conduits such as water pipes, electric wires, air-conditioning units, drain pipes and vents should all be sealed. Also check for broken windows and unscreened vents. Vents should be covered with metal grillwork backed by rust-resistant screening. Roofs should be checked to see that shingles are down tight and sheathing is complete. Check roof ventilators, screen vents and in wall vents.

Make sure you check under sinks where pipes enter the wall. This is a great area for mice and rats to enter your home or business.

Copper mesh stuffing, course steel wool, sheet metal, hardware cloth and mortar can be used to seal the spaces around these areas. Just use your imagination.

These are not all areas that mice and rats can enter your home. Its impossible for me to think of everywhere. Like I said, just use your imagination.The author of this article has been in the pest control industry for 13 years and has cleaned many homes of rodents and other pests and insects. For more information on rodents and other pests and insects visit his web site. http://www.infobreaks.com

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Saturday, January 19, 2008

Basic Methods of Foundation Waterproofing

It is absolutely necessary to waterproof the foundation of your home. Foundation waterproofing is a critical step in maintaining your home's value and an important measure for preventing very serious damage. Usually done by professionals, foundation waterproofing is generally not recommended as a do-it-yourself project. Your home is likely your biggest investment, and foundation waterproofing is imperative in order to protect that investment. Ideally, foundation waterproofing takes place as the home is being built, but years of settling and water leakage or negligence on the part of the contractors often leaves the home's foundation unprotected.

One short-term waterproofing method is the use of black tar for foundation waterproofing, but this is certainly not recommended. Keep in mind that this is a very short-lasting method that will dry out, crack and let water seep back in within five to eight years. In professional terms, tar is used as a damp-proofing method rather than a waterproofing method. If you do choose to attempt do-it-yourself foundation waterproofing, it is recommended that you use rubberized liquid membrane, which is basically the same material that automobile tires are made of. The liquid membrane is quick drying, inexpensive and generally easy to apply. It can be applied with a roller, sprayer or trowel. Be aware that by using this method, you run the risk of inconsistently applying the membrane. Pay careful attention to ensure it is properly applied.

Again, foundation waterproofing is generally left to the professionals. There are materials and methods available for people who wish to do it themselves, but it's a good idea to do some research first as it is important to get the job done right.

Waterproofing Info provides detailed information on waterproofing systems, as well as waterproofing contractors and consultants. Waterproofing Info is affiliated with Business Plans By Growthink.

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Wednesday, January 9, 2008

Corrugated Roofing Materials used for Roofing any Structure

The roof is a very essential element of the house, building or any structure. They provide the shelter and the protection from natures elements and factors such as rain, snow, sleet, as well as sunlight. But basically, the roof is like a wall of the house, a panel if you will; only it is placed and located on top of the house or building. Roofs are basically characterized in two ways, the flat and the sliding. Some combine both. Roofs may be made from different materials, all throughout the history of mankind, different materials have been used as roofing materials and one of the more successful is the corrugated roofing.

Corrugated roofing started out as sheetmetal. They form some sort of waves on the roofing for design as well as for purpose. Nowadays corrugated roofing is made from different materials, such as Stainless Steel, Fiberglass, Aluminum, Coated or Painted Steel. Usually they are treated with special finishes to prevent corrosion. Corrugated roofing materials are easy to use and install. They are relatively affordable than other roofing materials and are a long lasting solutions. Corrugated roofing materials are usually used for the sliding type of roof.

Steel corrugated roofing materials can be quite long lasting. They can be painted with different colors and treated with different solutions to make them even more long-lasting. They are also pretty lightweight and easy to handle. Installation can be done with a minimum number of persons. Whats more they are very affordable. Corrugated roofing materials that uses fiberglass are very translucent which can provide natural lighting to the house or building. They are watertight like other corrugated roofing materials and are very lightweight and durable. Corrugated roofing materials are also more rigid than a flat sheet of a similar type and thickness, this results to a substantial reduction in cost and weight.

The disadvantages in using corrugated roofing materials are that they are very lightweight and can be hard to work with if the weather is extreme. Fiberglass corrugated roofing materials cannot withstand high heat, fiberglass also easily chips while metal and aluminum corrugated roofing materials dent easily and is hard to restore. The temperature plays a major facto with corrugated roofing materials and if they are not installed properly they may detach. Because corrugated roofing materials are usually very thin, they can be very noisy when it rains, snows or other extreme weather conditions. The corrugated roofing materials sheets can also be very heated during hot sunny days and the heat can radiate to the rest of the structure making it very uncomfortable. To eradicate this problem, a false ceiling must be placed, the gap in between should be well ventilated so that the hot air will be dispensed through that manner. Utilizing light colored corrugated roofing materials or painting it with light colored paints if possible will also decrease this problem.

When installing corrugated roofing materials, there is some basic building materials needed such as, Filler strips, these are wood shaped to fit the contours of the panels, special nails for corrugated roofing materials, plastic washers, you will also need a drill and drill bits, a saw might also be needed for some cutting. Corrugated roofing materials are sold in panels with different sizes, before purchasing, it is best to determine which size and how many panels will be needed so that cutting will not be necessitated thus avoiding waste and additional costs. With corrugated roofing materials you get high=quality roofing materials that is very affordable, easy to handle and install and can be designed to compliment any house and design.

Online entrepreneur Sara Jenkins, is dedicated to helping others and their needs to succeed in life by offering free payroll tips everyday. To learn more about her free roofing tips, and to sign up for her FREE Roofing articles and FREE bonus how-to books and resources, visit www.RoofingUp.com.

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Tuesday, January 1, 2008

Repairing Rolled Roofing

Working on your roof, including repairing rolled roofing, can be a dangerous job. Before getting started, make sure that your ladder is strong and secured. Remember to avoid working on the roof if it is raining or wet, as this can be extremely dangerous. With the presence of water, the roof becomes very slick and increases the likelihood of a serious fall. When repairing rolled roofing, always try to choose a day with nice weather in the forecast. If you have a fear of heights or just do not wish to do the work yourself, call a professional contractor to ensure that the job is done correctly. If you decide to take on the job yourself, here are a few tips to help guide you through the process:

Material List

1. Broom or brush to sweep away debris

2. Rolled roof material to match that of your current roof

3. Utility knife to cut the roofing material

4. Roofing cement

5. Roofing nails

Remove All Debris.

Now that you’re ready to begin, start with a broom or brush and remove any loose dirt, leaves or other debris from the damage in the roofing material. Once it’s been swept away, carefully remove the damaged material making sure that neighboring pieces are not damaged in the process.

Replacing The Damaged Material.

When repairing rolled roofing, once the damaged piece is removed, cut a piece of roofing material to match the size of the one that was removed and prepare to replace it with the new one. Using roofing cement, secure the new piece in place and complete the process with roofing nails. Be sure to clean your workspace and not leave any of the old material or supplies lying around.

Calling In The Professionals.

While some relatively minor repair projects can be done by the homeowner, it’s often recommended to call a professional roofing contractor. When repairing rolled roofing, or any other home project, be sure that you can complete the task before taking on the job yourself. If you attempt to repair something that you aren’t familiar with, you may end up with further damage if the repairs aren’t done correctly. If you have any doubts, call a reputable contractor in your area for a price quote and scheduling.

As Northern Virginia Roofing Contractors, Roofer911.com takes great pride in maintaining customer satisfaction for all types of new roof installation and roof repair work for residential and commercial roofing accounts. Does your website need more exposure to the search engines? Add Your Site Today to our free directory.

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Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Flat Roofing Materials

It’s a fact that your roof is one of the most important parts of your house and is the one thing that provides the building structure, the building occupants and the building contents with protection from the elements. Many roofs are in a state of disrepair but homeowners ignore this until the roof gets worse or until the weather gets worse. With regular maintenance and the early identification and fixing of any problems you can usually avoid the big problems that have equally big price tags attached to them. Regular maintenance in this way will also help extend the life of your roof.

Selecting flat roofing materials.

Flat roofs have extra difficulties associated with them. Because they do not slope rainwater does not automatically run down the roof and drain off. It is absolutely vital that flat roofing materials are as water resistant and water tight as possible to prevent serious damage to the roof itself and to the rest of the building and it’s contents. New types of flat roofing material are being used and while these offer more in the way of protection they are also more expensive as a general rule. There are still three main types of flat roofing materials that are used on a regular basis on new and older houses.

Built up flat roofing materials.

Built up roofing is basically just that. Built up roofing consists of laying down several layers of tar and water resistant materials and then covered with gravel. This is quite an old technique but the introduction of new waterproof materials has seen the strength and durability of this technique increase. The gravel acts as a good fire resistant layer and can be made to look very attractive. It is usually the cheapest of the flat roofing materials available, however, it is very heavy and may require strengthening of the joists. It is also impractical to use on residential houses that are being lived in because it smells terribly. The gravel itself can clog gutters and other vital aspects of water drainage.

Modified Bitumen flat roofing.

Modified bitumen is another stalwart in the world of flat roofing materials. Once upon a time it was necessary to use torchdown techniques that involved burning the roll of material onto the roof, however it is now possible to get adhesive varieties, thus cutting out the potential fire hazard that is sometimes associated. The mineral surface that is used to create modified bitumen can be created in light colors, effectively reflecting the heat and sun. This will cut down on your energy bills during the summer months, and it can even be installed by any avid (and competent) do it yourself fanatic.

Rubber membrane.

Rubber membrane is another method of coating your flat roof. As far as flat roofing materials go it is durable and resistant to general wear and tear. Leaks are easy to find and repair, but the cost is really quite high. The standard black rubber does not reflect heat and paying for a lighter membrane will cost you more, however, it is quick to fit and will cause little disruption to your house life during the process.

As Northern Virginia Roofing Contractors, Roofer911.com takes great pride in maintaining customer satisfaction for all types of new roof installation and roof repair work for residential and commercial roofing accounts. Does your website need more exposure to the search engines? Add Your Site Today to our free directory.

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Thursday, November 29, 2007

Discovering Fiberglass Roofing Panels for Your Roofing Needs

 

Roofs are an integral part of the house. The design of a roof tells a lot about the structure. They can be stylish, grand, historical, modern, versatile and so much more. When designing a house, building or any structure, the roof cant be taken for granted, they must be complimenting the whole design and yet, will be very durable and resistant to nature’s elements. That is why; designers take into consideration a lot of things like the weather, the winds, the location of the structure and much more, all of them makes an influence on the design of the roof and what kind of roofing materials to use. There are many forms wherein roofs are designed and constructed. They could either be flat, pitched, vaulted, domed or combinations of those types. As stated, these designs are influenced by considerations regarding technical, regional and aesthetic factors.

Since time immemorial, man have found and used different materials to use as materials for the roofs of their houses. Some of the early roofing materials used where leaves, rocks, wood, stones then as time and man progresses more and more have been discovered. Roofing materials made out of asphalt, cement, wood, and synthetic materials like fiberglass and other innovative materials. These new roofing materials have proven to be durable, reliable and lightweight. They can be manufactured in any shape and in any color making them a good alternative if not the outright choice.

Fiberglass has gained quite a following in the past few decades, because of their malleability they can be formed into anything with relative ease. They can also be very tough and durable yet be lightweight and easy to handle. With those characteristics, fiberglass is a good material to be used for roofing. Fiberglass first was introduced in 1938, as the name implies, fiberglass is made from very fine fibers of glass. This revolutionary product then has long been developed and provided with fresh innovations to form other types of roofing panels, which caters to different needs. The flexibility and versatility of fiberglass roofing panel materials makes it a very popular choice.

Fiberglass roofing panels can be shaped as corrugated roofing panels, shingles roofing panels, tapered roofing panels and so much more. Being synthetically produced somewhat, they are easy to manipulate to form shapes, used as composite material, provided different colors and other designs and textures that the manufacturers or public desire. It doesn’t matter what type or form the design of your roof is, a fiberglass roofing panel will provide your roof with a tough and durable membrane, as well as provide it with great looking cover and protection.

Fiberglass roofing panels provide great waterproof sealing for the roof, especially when installed properly. Many fiberglass roofing panels producers provide longer warranties when their authorized roof installers do the project. Aside from their easy to install, durable and lightweight factors, Most fiberglass roofing panels are affordable than the alternative roofing panels, fiberglass roofing panels are about 65 to 70 percent cheaper than the others but gives the same great look and durability with an average of 25 to 30 years.

There are a plethora of choices when it comes to fiberglass roofing panels, each providing their pros and cons, but like any other building project, it is best to discuss this with your architect or contractor. Try to learn more and discuss this with people knowledgeable with all the factors that may influence the look and the lifespan of your roof. More and more new and innovative types, shapes and forms of fiberglass roofing panel are coming out so it’s best to keep yourself updated.

Online entrepreneur Sara Jenkins, is dedicated to helping others and their needs to succeed in life by offering free payroll tips everyday. To learn more about her free roofing tips, and to sign up for her FREE Roofing articles and FREE bonus how-to books and resources, visit http://www.RoofingUp.com

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