Everything Your Need To Know About Basement Waterproofing

Waterproofing your basement is an essential project to take on in order to avoid some very serious and costly problems later on down the road. During the hot summer months you will typically not have many problems with regards to your basement being wet, but when the rainy season arrives you will definitely start to notice areas that need improvement. Perhaps you may experience a flooded basement floor or maybe some heavy condensation build-up.

If you are living a newly build home, the chances of you having serious basement waterproofing problems are slim to nothing. Newer homes are usually pretty well waterproofed. It?s the older homes that you need to worry about. Anything built before the year 1970 will need to be inspected for poor waterproofing. In the past, the construction of homes was not as good as it is today, which is why there tends to be more problems with older homes.

Aside from poor construction, other issue may lead to waterproofing issues. For instance, through out time you may have a water protection system start to break down. As this system becomes less and less efficient, you will start to have problems with excess water entering into your home. Your basement will be the first place to start showing signs of wetness. Whatever you do, don?t ignore this problem. The problem will only become worse if you neglect it.

It is extremely important to fix a wet basement problem. In the beginning stages of a wet basement problem, you will start to smell an unpleasant odor. Some people ignore this odor until the problems becomes worse. As the problem begins to progress, it will start to form mildew. The mildew will continue to spread and start damaging furniture in your basement and other important items. Furthermore, mildew leads to pests and breathing difficulties if you are exposed to it for long periods of time. For these reasons, it is better to waterproof your basement before it causes serious damage to your house and to those that live in it.

Bottom line, if you notice a leak in your basement, or any other form of water damage, it is recommended that you have your basement inspected by a professional as soon as possible. The amount of waterproofing needed will depend upon how large the leak actually is and the amount of pressure that is being applying to the wall. If the problem is detected early enough then your waterproofing project should be rather simple and cost effective.

For more information regarding waterproofing basements, and to get a free estimate on basement waterproofing from a prescreened contractor visit www.WaterproofingKey.com

Pest Control - Pest Proofing

There are a lot of us who will freak out at the sight of just one unwanted bug in our home. We may not care in the least about seeing one of these critters outside - but just one crawling across the floor where we can see it will cause us to use whatever means necessary to eradicate every indoor pest we can.

Roaches, ants, centipedes, silverfish, spiders and other assorted creepy crawlies are all unwelcome in our homes. Some of these guys we wouldn't give a second thought to if we saw them on the sidewalk. But let us see one on the wall and our whole agenda changes. To avoid having to experience these life-changing situations, you can pest proof your home.

Pest proofing involves keeping what's outside, outside. Most pests that we see in our home are coming there from outdoors. Often they come inside because of changes in the weather such as cooler temperatures after summer or because of heavy rains. Pest proofing involves making the house safe from their unwanted entry. Successfully pest proofing your house can prevent your ever having to see another unwelcome 6 or eight or even more legged guest.

Here are some steps you can take to make your house pest tight.

Repair all holes around the house and garage to prevent bug (and mouse for that matter) entry. Use metal hardware cloth or steel wool to seal off holes so that not only can they not get in, but can't chew or bite through the sealed hole either. Using wood will work if your problem isn't mice or you don't have mice. But if you do wood won't work because they can chew right through any wooden repair. After plugging holes with hardware cloth or steel wool, fill it with cement or mortar.

Seal the bottom of all outside entry doors by installing rubber door sweeps. Anything larger than a 1/16 of an inch gap is an invitation to insects to enter your home. Install seals on the bottom of garage doors too. These should be made of rubber and not vinyl so that they seal properly during cold weather.

Caulk door thresholds on the outside bottom and side edges.

Repair all door and window screens, which will stop the entry of flying insects. Some insects though are too small to be stopped by screens. The only way to prevent their entry is to keep windows closed when they are prevalent.

Bugs can sometimes find their way into your home through floor drains so they may need screening, too.

Use expandable foam or caulk to seal utility entrances into your home such as faucets, wiring, meters, pipes, dryer vents, etc: these are favored entry points into the home for lots of creatures.

Caulk all cracks you find around doors and windows. Clean all surfaces first and remove any peeling caulk or paint before using the caulk. Apply a smooth bead and smooth it with a moistened finger. Clear caulks hide any mistakes made better than colored ones.

Keep the foundation area clear of leaves and other types of yard debris.

Stephanie McIntyre has been a Platinum eBay Powerseller, an eBay Trading Assistant as well as an Educational Assistant trained by eBay. Her company, eSales Unlimited Inc. specializes in training small business owners in using eBay as an additional revenue stream. She maintains a site with information on selling on eBay.

 

Soundproofing Your Fence with Dr. Bob

So you have just purchased your home but when you first looked at it, you didn?t realize just how bad the traffic noise in the backyard really was. Now you are committed to a 30-year mortgage and asks ?What can I do Dr. Bob? Well, I?m glad you asked.

You can construct a soundproof or a sound-control fence. Now will this fence block 100% of the traffic noise? I?m afraid not, but will it make your backyard life tolerable? You bet it will.

There are some things that you need to know about building an effect sound control fence that will make it more effective. First and foremost, you new sound control fence needs to be 8 ft above the noise source. Now you need to check with your city or township to see if they have height ordinances regarding fences. If they will only allow a 6? high fence, you can always build an earthen berm to increase the height of the backyard where the fence will be erected.

Now lets talk about the fence itself. I recommend building a cedar or redwood slatted fence as high as possible, (8ft being the minimum height above the noise source). The term ?Above the noise source? means simply this, if the noise is coming from an automobile muffler, then the fence technically needs to be 8? above the cars tailpipe. This should be simple enough. If you fence isn?t exactly 8? above the noise source will it not be effective? Of course it will, but at the 8? level you will get the best sound blocking.

Let?s talk about constructing your fence. The new redwood or cedar fence will have at least 4? X 4? posts mounted in concrete footings and sunk at least 2 ft into the ground. You will want as stable a foundation as possible for your new sound control fence as you will be adding heavy sound blocking agents to it. Once the posts are set and the concrete has cured, you will then add the fence cross members. These are generally 2? X 4? beams that connect the posts together and offer extra support for the fence slats. Now once the fence framing is complete, you will then be ready for the soundproofing membrane to be installed. You will have already called the professionals at Soundproofing America and ordered a product called ?mass loaded vinyl?. Mass loaded vinyl is a loaded vinyl soundproofing barrier that comes in rolls that are 35?x 4? or 30? x 4 ??. Once you have your rolls of mass loaded vinyl and the acoustical caulk and tape that go with the MLV, you are ready to install the soundproof membrane for your new fence.

Your first step is to stretch the MLV along the frame of the fence, you want to make sure the that the MLV extends all the way down to the ground so that the sound does not leak though the bottom of your fence. Once the MLV is stretched across the fence frame, you will staple or nail the MLV to the frame. I recommend that you overlap the MLV by at least ?? and that you will liberally caulk between the overlap with acoustical caulk. You will also want to caulk the outer perimeter of the MLV membrane with the acoustical caulk. The next step is to tape the caulked Seams only with a PVC seam sealer tape along with the acoustical caulk.

As soon as the MLV membrane is secured to the fence framing and all the seams and perimeter have been caulked and taped, it is time to slat the fence. You will use 8? dog eared slats and but the slats as close together as possible, it is also a good idea to caulk the seams of the slats themselves, but this is absolutely not essential.

I would also recommend slats to the other side of the fence in an effort to protect the MLV membrane from the elements. This is a common practice, but once again is not essentials for good sound blockage.

One final note, some of my customers use a combination of both mass loaded vinyl and America mat closed cell foam as the septum for their sound control fences. By adding the closed cell foam you are adding sound absorption to your fence as well as the best in sound blockage. If you use both of these weather proof products, you will want to leave at least a 1/8? gap between the slats on the side of the fence that faces the noise source. In other words if you are using both America mat and MLV you will need to slat both sides of the fence and leave the gaps on the side facing the traffic for example. These septum fences work great for loud and obnoxious neighbors as well. I hope this give your new hope for having a nice quiet backyard.

This is Dr. Bob?..Out!!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Your Soundproofing Solution

Moving to a new home, installing a home theater, having a new baby, getting new neighbors, or just growing weary of the everyday noise are all reasons that cause people to want to consider soundproofing. Another common soundproofing complaint is footstep noise from rooms above. ?I can hear my neighbors walking and sliding their chairs.? In a world where hard surfaced floors are increasingly popular, this problem is becoming increasingly important, and quality strategies and solutions are needed.

Acoustical Solutions, Inc. of Richmond, Virginia, who has been offering sound barriers, sound absorption and sound isolation products for twenty years, is now proud to introduce Green Glue. Green Glue is a liquid, waterborne, sound damping compound, which represents the highest performance product of its type. It is used in between sheets of drywall, subflooring or other building materials. It is significantly lower in applied cost than competitive products, with an excellent cost/performance ratio. It is also remarkably tolerant to real-world application conditions and carries almost none of the burden of precision required by many soundproofing systems.

The best application for green glue is between sheets of drywall, OSB or Plywood over the main part of a wall, floor or other structure. Green Glue will not be effective as a paint or coating. Green Glue is non-toxic with no mixing required. For walls, floors and ceilings, this product drastically reduces impact and airborne noise. It can also be used in commercial environments, new construction or remodeling of an existing space as well as home theaters, and recording studios.

Sound damping is a very straightforward concept. Simply put, sound damping is the rate at which something dissipates energy. In a constrained layer damping system, sometimes referred to as CLD, a damping material is sandwiched between two other (usually stiff/rigid) materials. For example, Green Glue sandwiched between two layers of drywall. Sound damping occurs when the viscoelastic center of the "sandwich" is sheared. The shearing pulls and stretches on the sound damping material. Under these conditions, the unique polymeric construction of Green Glue very efficiently converts this mechanical energy to heat. The vibration energy is not isolated; it's dissipated and removed.

Green Glue comes in 29 oz. tubes. You can use any quart size caulk gun, available at most hardware and building material stores. It is very fast and easy to apply. No special skills whatsoever are required. Recommended application is two tubes of Green Glue per 4' x 8' area or two tubes per standard sheet of drywall. If you are not on a budget, utilizing three tubes per sheet will improve performance. Each case of Green Glue covers about 192 square feet, or 128 square feet if used at the three tubes coverage rate. Do not use more than three tubes per 4' x 8' sheet, as performance will actually decline above three tubes per sheet.

Dave Ingersoll Acoustical Solutions 800 782-5742 info@acousticalsolutions.com

Quality Online Roofing Resources

I recently had the need to come up with relatively useful definitions of some roofing terms and also some guides and opinions regarding roofing methods. I stumbled upon some useful online resources that provide the things that I need and also may also be helpful to other users out there.

Here is a list and some descriptions of some of the sites I have found:

1. Garlandco.com - It is a roofing company that has been in business since 1895. What generally caught my attention was their PowerPoint presentation that provides an overview of the most common types of roofing systems that are available in the commercial market place today. Other information include in the presentation are brief description, history and application of each system and lastly, the advantages and disadvantages of each roofing system.

2. Roofing.com - It is a forum all about roofing. Its main feature is a forum area where there are active members. All posts are related to roofing and most members are highly knowledgeable when it comes to roofing both in theory and in practice.

It also has a Knowledge base area wherein forum members can give inputs like answers to frequently asked questions and some roofing guides. Within this area, you can find the definitions to most roofing terms.

The site also has a section wherein you can view the number of roofing jobs available per state. It also has a directory of roofing companies categorized by state. All in all, the site is quite user-friendly and highly informative. Most of my friends also think that it is one good online resource site if the subject is roofing.

3. Roofersreview.com - Is a highly informative site dedicated to roofing. Here you can find local roofers through browsing photos of their works. Also, this site has been suggested to me by members of Roofing.com. They say the pictures they upload to this site help them get quick answers from other users of the forum.

I would include the other sites that I find useful in another article which I may finish by next week. Until then, I hope you get the maximum benefit that you can from the following sites.

Jasper Bautista is a Webmarketing Specialist of Agents of Value who is currently handling Roofing.com

Installing Rolled Roofing the Easy Way

Installing rolled roofing no longer has to be a life-threatening experience. CCW EZRoof, a product manufactured by Carlisle, makes torching and hot-asphalt mopping a thing of the past. This self-adhering, peel-and-stick product is made for waterproofing low-slope roofs (from 1" to 6" per foot) and installs easily, quickly, and painlessly.

EZRoof makes installing rolled roofing simple, too. First, unroll it and then cut it into workable sections, rolling it back up as you finish. Prepare the deck of the roof by making sure dust, debris, and any protrusions have been removed. If removing an existing roof, take off and discard old shingles, roofing felt, nails, and any decking that has been broken or damaged.

Part of installing rolled roofing includes applying an asphaltic primer to the deck. For each 200 to 300 square feet, you'll need to use one gallon of primer and allow it to cure for half an hour before installing rolled roofing.

When you begin installing rolled roofing, nail the metal drip edge to the deck at the rake and eave, and then place the EZRoof with the adhesive zip strip facing the top of the roof. Beginning at the lowest part of the roof, peel back 12" to 24" of the backing. Align with the lower edge of the deck and press firmly into place.

Tear away the release film as you work when installing rolled roofing, pressing with a metal hand roller, if possible, to keep the EZRoof smooth. Panel ends should then be overlapped by six inches with a generous bead of mastic applied to the area for good adhesion. Roll the seams as you go with the hand roller or by applying smooth pressure with your foot. For subsequent rows, be sure and overlap the EZRoof while installing rolled roofing to ensure proper and adequate sealing against moisture.

Once you've used this product when installing rolled roofing, you're sure to never use anything else! EZRoof makes installing rolled roofing easier than ever. So what're you waiting for? Get EZRoof - and take the headache out of installing rolled roofing.

Carlo Morelli writes for OnlineTips.Org, where you can read tips on attic radiant barriers, metal roofing and other home/garden topics.

5 Types of Commercial Roofing

Small and large businesses will often seek a company that can provide them with commercial roofing service that will not interfere with their regular business. Some roofing companies will provide special services just for commercial property. Leaving parking lots free of debris and keeping entry ways free of obstructions so your business can continue to operate smoothly.

There are several types of roofing to select for your commercial building. Selection of course may depend on cost, the slope of your roof, and the weather conditions in your area.

1. Asphalt Shingles

These are the most common type of shingles used on home and commercial buildings today. Reinforced with organic material, wood fibers or fiber glass, these shingles can last from 20 to 30 years. Laminated shingles are also made of asphalt but come in a variety of colors and textures that give this shingle the appearance of more expensive shake or slate tiles. These more popular shingles can last between 25 and 50 years.

2. Metal Roofing

Steel, Aluminum, Standing Seam, Metal Tie, and Copper are just a few of the metal roofing materials used today as commercial roofing. If installed correctly, metal roofing may last between 30 to 50 years, which is just as well as the more expensive asphalt shingles. Metal roofing is not as costly as slate or tile roofing. In the past colored aluminum roofing has been known to fade, oxidize and peel, but many manufacturers have found the solution to this problem. This type of roofing can withstand most extreme weather but has been known to dent when hit with hail. Now a new granulated coating is offered to prevent this outcome. Copper is another option, though more expensive than aluminum. With a copper roof you can expect it to last up to 100 years.

3. Wood Shakes

Most roof shakes are made of treated pine, spruce or more commonly, cedar. Hand split shakes off that rough and thick look many seek. Most wood shingles are actually cut using a machine. This gives it a smooth finish, making it easier to install. Cedar is the first choice in wood shakes, offering up to a 30 year life. When shakes are first installed, they appear brown or red in color but expect the weather to fade the real wood and leave it a soft gray. Installation for wood shingles can run as much as 50% higher than other types of roofing.

4. Slate Shingles

Slate shingles are heavy and harder to install. Though they are easily breakable, they can add beauty to any home. This roof can last from 45 to 70 years and some claim it will last over 100 years if installed properly. These colorful and rich shingles will add a high price to your structure, costing as much as 400% more than other materials.

5. Tile Roofing

Tile is often made from clay but can also be made of concrete or even rubber. There is a large variety of colors and styles of tile roofing available today. Clay is more expensive than concrete tiles but the basic performance, durability and look of the tiles is the same. Lasting more than 50 years, this type of tile is often very heavy and your roof may need extra support.

Whether you have a new structure to roof or are re-roofing your commercial building, be sure to select the roofing company that can do the best job for you. Selecting a company that has completed roofs for commercial structures before will be your best bet. Ask if you can view a job they have completed recently. Be sure to ask about your specific needs, such as a flat roof often found on commercial buildings, heating, air vents and other roof obstructions. Also ask to see their roof installation license.

Ronald has been in the roofing industry for over 15 years and has worked in residential and commercial environments. To get classic roofing tips and step to step instructions on picking and installing the perfect roof for your home, visit http://www.dtsarchitects.com, his roofs site.