Roofing Materials

In Eastern Pennsylvania farmers used to get up to milk the cows and due their chores early in the morning.. My, have things changed since was a boy. Not only are there very few of us left, but we have had to cope with urban sprawl. Our farm is in Bucks County. This county and Montgomery County are some of the fastest going suburban areas on the East Coast. In the morning I go downtown and take my father to breakfast at 6am. Yes, I can start the day at anytime but this is the best hour. This trip is not so much for the meal which I don't really need, but to check out route each day that the trash trucks will follow. I want to make sure I do my shopping early!!! This way I can check out the early morning trash routes for the free bargains that are set out during the night. I have come home many a time with a full load in my pickup truck. I even got a Frozen Purdue Chicken last month, boy was it tasty!!!

Yes, I am an urban farmer. Our farm is in the heart of Bucks County, just 25 miles north of Philadelphia. See http://www.seedlingsrus.com/Palocations.html The last dairy cows have been sold in our area, so you can imagine, fields and fields of houses surround our farm. But, our good neighbors do provide us with their discarded items. We have found this as our new resource. Thus we have come up with new ways to capitalize on being a suburban farmer. If there was ever a place where one can take a bull by the horns, its on a farm. There are many ways to operate a farm. Farmers can buy or build there own equipment. Farmers can collect what is junk to most people, but is inventory to the farmer. An old car to a farmer can become a mobile tool box, some old cars become shelters for farm pigs, or old cars become sources of needed parts for repair of other machinery. At Highland Hill Farm, we value items that most people would put out to the trash. This article is about us, and our collecting of used items for use on our properties.

Our nurseries, farms, and ranches are always in need of all sorts of used items. We are always looking to trade for items that we are able to use in our operations. We use steel, such as angle iron and metal rods. Old bed frames make a cheap substitute for angle iron. Old curtain rods are a great substitute for metal rods. Old hangers, well, we use them in place of welding rods.

We believe that the best way for us to obtain needed supplies is to have a hardware store approach to inventory for our operations. We want to have all sorts of materials on hand and at many of our locations to supply a lower cost source of materials for the operations. This means we buy in bulk, and accept used or items that need repairs. We have the ability to fabricate some of our own equipment so that means we will collect salvaged iron, metal pipe, and construction materials. We build our own additions and do our own renovations to our properties so used constructions materials are wanted. I am color blind so colors don't matter. Roofing shingles need not match, only protect.

We are always looking for used power equipment and tools. It is easier to have tools on site than to carry needed tools to some of our remote operations. Thus we want all types of machinery. We can modify and repair items and thus condition of the item may not be suitable for your needs but great for ours.

Do you have rolls or partial rolls of barbed wire or woven wire? Fence supplies, electric chargers, fencing tools, gate, posts.... We can trade. See http://www.seedlingsrus.com/TradesWanted.html

We are also interest in collecting rocks and boulders that we can sell at our nurseries. Wall stone and old building foundations are great sources of rock and stone. Why throw it out we may be able to recycle it? You may also have left over pavers and flagstone. We again are interested in them. In December of 2006 we began to sell hardscaping materials thru our web site http://www.digatree.com

We have a store in Milan Pa that sells used items from furniture to farm equipment. There is virtually no item that is reusable that we can't sell or recycle for you. See http://www.seedlingsrus.com/MilanHirst.html

We are not a one way street. We have thousands of plants from seedlings and liners to 20' trees. We grow trees, plants, and shrubs in Fountainville and Milan Pa. See our web site for details on plants that we carry. http://www.seedlingsrus.com Do you like to hunt? We have lots of recreational sites on our farms and ranches. See http://www.seedlingsrus.com/recreationalops2.html for information on hunting, fishing, camping, hiking, arrowhead hunting, bird watching, bone hunting and meteorite hunting on our ranches and farms. Maybe you could just help us by transporting items from one farm and ranch to another. Highland Hill Farm farm is located 1 mile west of Doylestown in Central Bucks County, Pennsylvania,( at 5275 W. Swamp Rd.) ( for our location near Doylestown see http://www.seedlingsrus.com/Palocations.html ) whose name is not at all derived from the many deer to be found (that would be too easy), was established, wa-a-a-y back in 1681 when the king of England, Charles II, owed one of his old admirals 16,000 pounds Sterling. (That's about 4 million of our 2006 dollars.) For payment of the debt, it became the admiral's son who was given a "tract" (a parcel, a piece) of land in "the New World," on the northern continent of the western hemisphere before it got the name America.

When William Penn saw just the eastern edge of the 40,000 square miles he had gotten he was most pleased, understandably so, with a forest that seemed to never end. Dad's woods, he thought, deciding to name the place where he would start a democratic sort of Quaker colony, Pennsylvania, Penn, -sylv (a Latin word root meaning "woods"), -ania (Latin suffix for "land"). So that's why our home sounds like Count Dracula's (Tran -sylv -ania, tran for "between," as in, between the Carpathian Mountains and the old Principality of Wallachia in what is today's Romania, there's a land which is woods. Maybe Newfoundland should have been named Newfoundania? Naah.

William Penn established just three counties at first, all in the southeastern corner of his wooded land, all with names from mother England. Philadelphia County surrounded the original village there, Chester County was to the south, and Bucks County to the north.

In England, Buckinghamshire was, and still is, a county just northwest of London that forms an irregular rectangle running from the southeast at the edge of London, northwesterly. BUCKinghamShire, was shortened to Bucks in conversation. So William Penn named his land's similarly sized, irregular rectangle county, which ran northwesterly from Philadelphia's edge, Bucks county. Of course when you come to our farm be prepared to visit our county and experience its diverse culture and history.

When you come to visit us at Highland Hill Farm in Fountainville, an interesting place to visit is Haycock Mountain. It is a cooled 130-million year old "almost a volcano" that didn't get to come out of the ground. It stayed below, but made the ground bulge upward, and the hot, liquid magma cooled to form coarse-grained "diabase" rock. Ayres' Rock in Australia and Wyoming's Devil's Tower are world-famous examples of what is called a "laccolith." Milk is "lacco" in Latin and "lith" means stone. Haycock Mountain is a laccolith, Buck's County's highest point at 959 feet above sea level.

Haycock Township surrounds the mountain. Haycock Elementary School is having their annual band concert at the nearby high school in the town of McLean on Tuesday, December 20, this year. You don't think that Bucks County has a town named McLean? You're absolutely right! Although there's the Haycock Elementary School we know on Old Bethlehem Road (Route 212), there's another one at the intersection of Haycock Road (Route 703) and Westmoreland Street, in McLean, Virginia just a few miles across the Potomac River west of Washington, D.C. Then, there's Haycock Mountain, in the southwestern part of the state of Utah, not to be confused with Haystack Mountain, Utah. Haycock Mountain, Alaska deserves mention, as well as Haycock Mound in Kansas. "What's in a name?," Shakespeare observed over 400 years ago.

So you get the point; haycock is a common word, but just what is a "haycock?" Before the days of baling machines, cut grasses for "haying" were spread out in the sun to dry ("gotta make hay while the sun shines") and then collected to be taken to where it would be stored. That dome-shaped mound, that pile, that heap, that stack of hay, will have a rounded top exactly like our Haycock Mountain in Bucks County.

If there's no barn with a "mow" (pronounce it like Chairman Mao) to store the hay out of the rain and snow, an extra large haycock can be piled up and this "hayrick" will have a protective outer layer of hay that will be used for bedding the farm animals, or for composting, etc. If a roof set on poles can be created to cover the hayrick, much less of the hay will have to get wet and subsequently rot... So there's a Hayrick Mountain in Texas and another Hayrick Mountain in Oregon. What's in a name? Try, Highland Hill Farm? And guess what we Raise? Highland Cattle and Nursery stock. Our most popular tree is the Green Giant arborvitae.( see http://www.seedlingsrus.com/GreenGiant.html ) Here is why:

The hardiness zone the Green Giant Arborvita tolerates is from zone 5 to zone 8. That's where extreme cold temperatures get down to a temperate level of about 15 or 20 degrees in the winter (Zone 8), but also as low as a frigid level of 15 or 20 degrees BELOW zero (zone 5). Green giants are evergreens, being cedars. Their rapid growth rates can in ideal conditions reach 3 feet per year. Site requirements for the Green Giant Arborvita are sun to partial shade, moist well drained soil preferred (but still does well in clay), and protection from wind, at lest when young.

The Green Giant is a beautiful tree. It has an aesthetically fine form. It's conical, being narrow to broadly pyramidal, reaching from 50 feet to 80 feet in height in southeastern Pennsylvania. The width at the base of the cone is usually about 15 feet to 20 feet. The leaves are rich green making graceful foliage.

Green Giants make a superb privacy screen and living fences. They keep their foliage color year 'round, great for brightening bleak gray winter days with snow on the ground. The cinnamon bright red bark when young turn rich russet brown with time crating a strong contrast with the needle leaves.

Green Giants' flowers, their fruit are pretty little light brown half-inch female cones. (Just so you know, Green giants are females, so its okay to call the cones pretty.) The Green Giant is also a wonderful shade tree, casting a dark, dense shade. The wood is strong too, once the tree is beyond its youth.

This is an arborvita that should outlive even your grandchildren. There are Green Giants out west documented to be over 300 years old. Just don't plant these too close to the ocean, or roads in areas where there's a lot of salt used for snow removal. If you get over 100 inches of snowfall and more per year, no roadside Arborvita planting where salt is used, PLEASE. The greatest soldier of ancient Greece in the Trojan war had his one little weak spot, what proved to be a fatal flaw, and the "Achilles Heel" for Green Giant Arborvitae is hypersensitivity to salt. If you plants this Arborvitas just keep away from the splash of road salt and it will make a great living fence.

So when are you coming to visit us in Bucks County?

See our many web sites at:
http://www.zone5trees.com , http://www.highlandhillfarm and http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.greengiantarbs.com http://www..HuntingRelics.com Delete Reply Forward Spam Move... Previous | Next | Back to Messages

Bill Hirst has been growing plants on his 200 acre farm in Bucks County for 30 years. His web sites are http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.digatree.com You can see Bill's fossil hunting web site at http://www.huntingrelics.com Sign up for Bill's newsletter at http://www.seedlingsrus.com/123456signup.html

Pest Control - Pest Proofing

There are a lot of us who will freak out at the sight of just one unwanted bug in our home. We may not care in the least about seeing one of these critters outside - but just one crawling across the floor where we can see it will cause us to use whatever means necessary to eradicate every indoor pest we can.

Roaches, ants, centipedes, silverfish, spiders and other assorted creepy crawlies are all unwelcome in our homes. Some of these guys we wouldn't give a second thought to if we saw them on the sidewalk. But let us see one on the wall and our whole agenda changes. To avoid having to experience these life-changing situations, you can pest proof your home.

Pest proofing involves keeping what's outside, outside. Most pests that we see in our home are coming there from outdoors. Often they come inside because of changes in the weather such as cooler temperatures after summer or because of heavy rains. Pest proofing involves making the house safe from their unwanted entry. Successfully pest proofing your house can prevent your ever having to see another unwelcome 6 or eight or even more legged guest.

Here are some steps you can take to make your house pest tight.

Repair all holes around the house and garage to prevent bug (and mouse for that matter) entry. Use metal hardware cloth or steel wool to seal off holes so that not only can they not get in, but can't chew or bite through the sealed hole either. Using wood will work if your problem isn't mice or you don't have mice. But if you do wood won't work because they can chew right through any wooden repair. After plugging holes with hardware cloth or steel wool, fill it with cement or mortar.

Seal the bottom of all outside entry doors by installing rubber door sweeps. Anything larger than a 1/16 of an inch gap is an invitation to insects to enter your home. Install seals on the bottom of garage doors too. These should be made of rubber and not vinyl so that they seal properly during cold weather.

Caulk door thresholds on the outside bottom and side edges.

Repair all door and window screens, which will stop the entry of flying insects. Some insects though are too small to be stopped by screens. The only way to prevent their entry is to keep windows closed when they are prevalent.

Bugs can sometimes find their way into your home through floor drains so they may need screening, too.

Use expandable foam or caulk to seal utility entrances into your home such as faucets, wiring, meters, pipes, dryer vents, etc: these are favored entry points into the home for lots of creatures.

Caulk all cracks you find around doors and windows. Clean all surfaces first and remove any peeling caulk or paint before using the caulk. Apply a smooth bead and smooth it with a moistened finger. Clear caulks hide any mistakes made better than colored ones.

Keep the foundation area clear of leaves and other types of yard debris.

Stephanie McIntyre has been a Platinum eBay Powerseller, an eBay Trading Assistant as well as an Educational Assistant trained by eBay. Her company, eSales Unlimited Inc. specializes in training small business owners in using eBay as an additional revenue stream. She maintains a site with information on selling on eBay.

 

All About Roofing

Experts recommend that you repair or replace your roof every ten to thirty years. Since they're the first things exposed to damaging elements of nature (like rain, wind, sun, snow, hail, ice, etc.), it's not surprising that they need a little attention now and then. Of course the climate in which you live will determine how often you repair or replace your roof as well. For example, a roof in a climate that changes from extreme cold temperatures to extreme hot ones year after year after year is prone to problems like brittleness or even crumbling. Roof Styles There are six basic styles of roofs. The most common roofs are gable roofs and you can immediately recognize these types because they're in the triangular shape that we're all familiar with. A flat roof looks just like its name implies. Although there are many variations, most roofs are structured along these two basic styles.

For example, most roofs are sloped (or pitched) and depending upon the climate, a roof may be high pitched or low pitched. High-pitched roofs are found in climates that produce a lot of precipitation. As you might have guessed, precipitation such as snow or rain doesn't stand much of a chance against a high-pitched waterproof and/or thermal resistant roof. In warmer climates, like the southwest, you'll find many buildings and homes with low-pitched roofs. For your protection, your city may mandate a specific roof pitch (measured in degrees). How Roofs Are Born To build a roof from scratch, constructors (more appropriately called, roofers) will more than likely either frame it (put it together) at ground level and then hoist it onto the house, or attach a prefabricated roof onto the house in the same manner. The idea is to build as much of it within easy walking distance before attaching to the top of a home - where roofers later have to climb up and apply additional materials. What Roofs Are Made Of What materials? Well first, roofs begin as 2 x 4s. These act as a roof's frame. Once the frame is built, it's hoisted atop of a house, and then it's covered with plywood, or sheathing. If advisable, your roof's sheathing may be covered with insulating board as well. As a precaution against water damage, vital parts of the roof may even be covered with metal flashing.

Atop of the 2 x 4s, the plywood, and sheathing lies what most of us finally recognize as a roof: it's covering. Coverings range from asphalt to clay tile, and from slate to concrete tile, however most of them are covered with either hot tar or shingles. Shingles are squares of roofing materials overlapped and nailed to the surface beneath it.

When you talk to your contractor about the type of roof you want, you're bound to hear some terminology that you're unfamiliar with. Defining all these new terms is beyond the scope of this article, but you can rest assured that your contractor is well familiar with the lingo and is more than happy to describe your options.

Author Paul White represents FloridaHomeBuild.com. A site designed to help home owners from Florida locate local home contractors with their home improvement projects.

Visit http://www.FloridaHomeBuild.com

Soundproofing Your Fence with Dr. Bob

So you have just purchased your home but when you first looked at it, you didn?t realize just how bad the traffic noise in the backyard really was. Now you are committed to a 30-year mortgage and asks ?What can I do Dr. Bob? Well, I?m glad you asked.

You can construct a soundproof or a sound-control fence. Now will this fence block 100% of the traffic noise? I?m afraid not, but will it make your backyard life tolerable? You bet it will.

There are some things that you need to know about building an effect sound control fence that will make it more effective. First and foremost, you new sound control fence needs to be 8 ft above the noise source. Now you need to check with your city or township to see if they have height ordinances regarding fences. If they will only allow a 6? high fence, you can always build an earthen berm to increase the height of the backyard where the fence will be erected.

Now lets talk about the fence itself. I recommend building a cedar or redwood slatted fence as high as possible, (8ft being the minimum height above the noise source). The term ?Above the noise source? means simply this, if the noise is coming from an automobile muffler, then the fence technically needs to be 8? above the cars tailpipe. This should be simple enough. If you fence isn?t exactly 8? above the noise source will it not be effective? Of course it will, but at the 8? level you will get the best sound blocking.

Let?s talk about constructing your fence. The new redwood or cedar fence will have at least 4? X 4? posts mounted in concrete footings and sunk at least 2 ft into the ground. You will want as stable a foundation as possible for your new sound control fence as you will be adding heavy sound blocking agents to it. Once the posts are set and the concrete has cured, you will then add the fence cross members. These are generally 2? X 4? beams that connect the posts together and offer extra support for the fence slats. Now once the fence framing is complete, you will then be ready for the soundproofing membrane to be installed. You will have already called the professionals at Soundproofing America and ordered a product called ?mass loaded vinyl?. Mass loaded vinyl is a loaded vinyl soundproofing barrier that comes in rolls that are 35?x 4? or 30? x 4 ??. Once you have your rolls of mass loaded vinyl and the acoustical caulk and tape that go with the MLV, you are ready to install the soundproof membrane for your new fence.

Your first step is to stretch the MLV along the frame of the fence, you want to make sure the that the MLV extends all the way down to the ground so that the sound does not leak though the bottom of your fence. Once the MLV is stretched across the fence frame, you will staple or nail the MLV to the frame. I recommend that you overlap the MLV by at least ?? and that you will liberally caulk between the overlap with acoustical caulk. You will also want to caulk the outer perimeter of the MLV membrane with the acoustical caulk. The next step is to tape the caulked Seams only with a PVC seam sealer tape along with the acoustical caulk.

As soon as the MLV membrane is secured to the fence framing and all the seams and perimeter have been caulked and taped, it is time to slat the fence. You will use 8? dog eared slats and but the slats as close together as possible, it is also a good idea to caulk the seams of the slats themselves, but this is absolutely not essential.

I would also recommend slats to the other side of the fence in an effort to protect the MLV membrane from the elements. This is a common practice, but once again is not essentials for good sound blockage.

One final note, some of my customers use a combination of both mass loaded vinyl and America mat closed cell foam as the septum for their sound control fences. By adding the closed cell foam you are adding sound absorption to your fence as well as the best in sound blockage. If you use both of these weather proof products, you will want to leave at least a 1/8? gap between the slats on the side of the fence that faces the noise source. In other words if you are using both America mat and MLV you will need to slat both sides of the fence and leave the gaps on the side facing the traffic for example. These septum fences work great for loud and obnoxious neighbors as well. I hope this give your new hope for having a nice quiet backyard.

This is Dr. Bob?..Out!!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Cheap soundproofing using American Sound Isolation tape.

American Sound Isolation tape is a great way to give you new home or addition some good soundproofing without spending a fortune. This sound isolation tape comes in 100 lineal ft rolls and it 1 7/16 " wide or basically the width of a stud or joist end. You simply peel off the backing and adhere to the Isolation tape to the face of all of the studs or the joist prior to screwing in the sheetrock. This will isolate the stud or joist structure from the finished drywall. This isolation helps to reduce airborne sound transmission as well as structure borne transmission through the studs or joists. There is another method that employs the American sound isolation tape and that is to double layer it on every other stud. If your studs are 16 OC then you will be taping every other stud at 32" OC. Once you have double taped every other stud, you will screw your drywall only into the taped studs. This will not only give you the isolation of the wood or steel structure from the outer wallboard, but it will give you the same effect as staggered studs. This method can be employed on both sides of the studs and to the end facings of joists. You can even tape the joists above before installing a sub floor, which will help to isolate the sub floor from the joists and the ceiling below. If you are in the process of new construction or remodeling where you have removed all drywall, taping the studs and joists with the American Isolation tape is essential. If you are remodeling or under new construction, American Sound Isolation tape is an effective and economical way to give your drywall the isolation it needs from the wood structure. This isolation will help to give you some good soundproofing between bedroom walls for example and doesn't cost you an arm and a leg to install. There are many other uses for American Sound Isolation tape that I just couldn't fit into this article. Builders and contractors across the United States and Canada are now using American sound isolation tape as a low cost soundproofing alternative to the more costly foams and barriers. For more information on American sound isolation tape or other quality soundproofing products go to my blog at: http://massloadedvinyl.blogspot.com/ Thanks for reading and learning about American Sound Isolation tape. This is Dr. Bob...Out!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O. Soundproofing America, Inc. Senior Technical Director Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079 E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.

Soundproofing a shooting or firing range

Many cities and municipalities are looking for state of the art soundproofing products and procedures for soundproofing a public, private, or and even home shooting ranges. The soundproofing materials used must be impervious to smoke and gunpowder residue and must be resilient (able to take a round without disintegrating) and easy to clean. Some folks feel that convoluted foam mat (bedding or egg crate foam) will work in such applications. This is a completely wrong assumption because convoluted foam is an open celled foam and has no soundproofing qualities whatsoever.

So how do you get both absorption and sound blocking from one product, that is impervious to moisture and will stand up the rigors of a live firing range? Many large cities have contacted me desperately looking for just such a material and believe it or not we have exactly what they are looking for. It's the closed cell vinyl nitrile America mat and it has been used in many different ranges throughout the country. It is extremely flame retardant and only absorbs water into the first 6% to 8% of the mat. We have found through real life experience that this absorbed moisture dissipates rapidly and never causes mold, mildew, or deterioration.

America mat is both a blocker and absorber that is extremely resilient and versatile in the shooting environment. The mat comes in thick nesses of ?" all the way up to 2" thick, but we have found that in most instances the ?" America mat does the job. This foam mat would be adhered directly to the walls and ceiling of the range tunnel and in some cases it would even be adhered to the floor. This will provide complete coverage thus forcing the sound to be absorbed into the mat and with no way out it dissipates rapidly. Major shooting ranges have used this foam mat even on outdoor ranges where the material is exposed to the elements.

Now we really don't recommend direct exposure of this material to the elements (especially in the snow), but the feedback we have received in such applications has been favorable indeed. This material has been used in the cities of Boston, New York, Oceanside California, and Kansas City and all the feedback was positive. The thicker the foam, the better the results, but for a basic handgun range, the ?" America mat should be sufficient. There are many other applications for America mat, but one of the most popular is for shooting ranges. It is a phenomenal product.

There is now a new product that is also used extensively in firing ranges and police training facilities. This new product is called Silent panel. I will talk more about Silent panels in my next article. Thanks for reading and learning about soundproofing a firing range.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

You can read more http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/mass-loaded-vinyl.asp

Waterproofing Foundation: What are your choices

If you are going to build a new home you need to waterproof the foundation of it so you won't have a wet basement in just a few years.

There are different waterproofing products and systems on the market so it really can be confusing. Hence what are your options?

Here is the short overview of the most common foundation waterproofing systems to help you to decide:

1. Liquid rubber foundation waterproofing membranes

Are elastomeric polymerized coatings made from liquid rubber - the same quality material your car tires are made from.

Advantages: They are easy to apply, quick to dry, cold applied. You can do it by yourself, by using sprayer, roller or trowel. The liquid cures into an elastic rubber coating, able to fill up current small holes and bridge possible future cracks in foundation wall as the building settles down. Rubber is flexible. They also usually come with a long warranty, and many are environmentally friendly with low solvent content, or solvent free. Very economical.

Disadvantages: Possibility of inconsistency in coverage, but the newest products will help you to determine the "right" thickness by the intensity of color, i.e. if you apply the product and you see any lighter patches, you just add more liquid. Additional surface preparation and curing may be required. If there are bigger cracks or holes in the structure you have to fill in with cement or other trowel-grade material before applying the overall coating. Also some of the liquid membranes require longer curing times for the concrete before they can be applied to insure proper bonding.

2. Hot applied Liquid Rubber Foundation waterproofing products:

It's a rubberized asphalt compound that forms a strong, flexible monolithic waterproofing membrane. Can be also applied on roofs.

Advantages: Adheres to virtually any structural surface. Ideal for rough uneven surfaces. Monolithic, free of seams, watertight, eliminates water migration and buildup of moisture. Offers strong protection because of the way it has to be applied.

Disadvantages: The surface has to be primed by primer first. The cost is higher because the product has to be applied in layers - basically you apply first coat of hot liquid rubber, then you have to quickly firmly press on the fabric reinforced sheet into that hot layer, then apply a second coat of hot liquid rubber waterproofing. Also, depending on the local building code you may have to apply 2 or 3 of these sheet layers. Because of this, the elasticity is low. And because it is Hot you have to be very careful - the best is to have it applied by a certified specialist.

3. Sheet membranes

The most common are self-adhering rubberized asphalt membranes composed of rubberized asphalt laminated to a waterproof polyethylene film.

Advantages: The biggest one is consistent thickness because they are "pre-made" to a required standard. Mechanically strong, resistant to hydrostatic pressure. Cover even the bigger holes or damaged areas. They can be applied to concrete, metal, wood or masonry surfaces.

Disadvantages: Harder to apply because of their very high "stickiness", also the cost for in-place is higher. Application requires at least 2 people to put in on properly. Requires lots of additional work = additional cost. If there are irregularities on the surface you want to put a sheet on they have to be smoothed first with some coat to make the surface even. You also would need to learn of joint treatment, lap joints, corners, penetration, priming, patching etc. And once the piece is down you won't get it back up in reusable condition.

4. Cementitious Waterproofing

Is a cement based flexible waterproofing membrane. It can consist of Portland cement, sand acrylic mixture, plasticizer and other active waterproofing chemicals to increase it's durability and effectiveness.

Advantages: Very easy to use, just mix the powder with water according to manufacturers recommendation and apply with brush or trowel. Very accessible - available from suppliers of masonry products, or specialized dealers. Paintable. Also comes in a variety of colors. In most cases one coat is sufficient, although some areas may be needing a use of the reinforcing mesh. Low cost. Corrosion and weather resistant. Can be applied as a positive or negative side waterproofing.

Disadvantages: No flexibility - cement does not stretch, so as the structure settles down there are the possibilities of the future cracks. Before applying the surface has to be free from protrusions, gaping cracks, oils, paints, water repellents and any other foreign material that could act as a bond breaker. Holes must be filled with approved block filler.

5. Bentonite Waterproofing

is a bentonite clay below-grade foundation waterproofing product which consists of sodium bentonite clay sandwiched between 2 layers of woven and no-woven puncture resistant polypropylene fabric. Comes as a clay panels and sheets.

Advantages: Can absorb tremendous amount of water. And as it takes the water in the clay swells and pushes itself into cracks and voids where it stays permanently as a barrier against the water. It is flexible and resistant to most chemicals. Non-toxic, non-polluting. No fumes. Can be applied in cold weather.

Disadvantages: Because of the way the clay works the seal does not form until the foundation is backfilled and the water reaches the bentonite material, which means you cannot confirm the integrity of the seal.

Summary: As you see a lot depends on your own situation, needs, requirements and what you feel comfortable with. The best way is to talk to the experts, check the manufacturers requirements especially for the concrete curing time, temperature limitations and additional labor requirements. Yes, waterproofing of the foundation can seem to be expensive at the first glance, but remember that it is a Long-term solution which when applied properly will save you lots of time, headache and money in the future, so please, don't skimp on it.

Dany Daylight is the site Administrator of Waterproofing-foundation-guaranteed.com
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Effective Roofing Repairs

The roof is one of the more prone areas of your house and it is vital that you not only have quality roofing installed but that regular checks and repairs are carried out to ensure it’s long life. Consider the fact that all roofing is subject to wind, rain, snow, sun and any other element that can be thrown at it and you should realize that your new roofing and subsequent roofing repairs would need to be top notch to avoid any nasty accidents or surprises. Having new roofing installed can be a pricey affair but only regular check ups and minor repairs when needed can prevent the worst from happening. If you haven’t had your roof checked for ten years then it is highly advisable that you get it seen to as soon as possible. It may not be leaking yet but if you leave it much longer it could be.

Age.

The biggest roofing killer is the age of the materials. When shingles begin to look worn this usually means they are. Even shingles that have a 40-year warranty should be checked every few years. Roofing contractors will perform a relatively inexpensive check up of the whole of your roofing and if you pick a reputable company they will tell you exactly what needs repairing now and what is likely to need repairing in the future.

Repair or replace.

Sometimes shingles can be blown off and merely need replacing but if this is happening more and more often you need to consider that they may need replacing. Repairing your roofing may cost less but if you have to repeatedly repair it then it is a much more cost-effective solution to have new roofing. A contractor will be able to help you assess the best option for your roof.

Protection.

Roofing is the thing that protects the rest of your home from the elements and the damage they can cause. As such your roofing is facing this damage itself and it should be given all the ammunition possible to complete its job. Shingles are available in a wide variety of sizes and costs, but the cheaper shingles are virtually useless and you should spend as much as you can possibly afford on buying top quality roofing shingles that will stand up to more than a light shower and a gentle breeze.

Cost of re-roofing.

Having new roofing costs money, but by continually paying for repair work to be done you should consider that there may be an underlying problem with the wooden sheathing underneath. The only way to tell whether this is the case or not is to have the old roofing shingles completely ripped off and have the underneath inspected and repaired properly. Once this is done you can pay for top quality roofing that may set you back a little more than the repair work would have done but will undoubtedly last you much longer. That said, if a shingle blows off during high gales there is no need to rush out and have your entire roofing replaced without seeking advice first.

As Northern Virginia Roofing Contractors, Roofer911.com takes great pride in maintaining customer satisfaction for all types of new roof installation and roof repair work for residential and commercial roofing accounts. Does your website need more exposure to the search engines? Add Your Site Today to our free directory.