Alternative Mass Loaded Vinyl Installations for Soundproofing

There is more than one method for installing mass loaded vinyl to obtain maximum effect. The standard of the industry is to install the MLV directly to the stud or joist framing using an industrial stapler or heavy-duty roofing nails that have the large plastic heads. This method is known as the membrane or septum method. The MLV works well when placed on a wall or ceiling in a membrane fashion, however it can also be sandwiched between 2 layers of drywall or other type of wallboard. The jury is still out on what thicknesses of drywall is best. For better frequency diffusion, it is best to use a layer of 5/8? drywall then the MLV as a septum (a sandwich) and then add a layer of ?? drywall or Homasote. The dissimilar materials do help in the soundproofing effort especially when we are looking to get every STC point we can get with as little effort as possible.

There is not a lot of information on the Web in regards to alternate methods of mass loaded vinyl installation, hopefully we will be able to explore this here. If you are constructing walls using the staggered stud method, it would be beneficial to actually weave the vinyl in an out of the staggered stud assembly itself. The above picture gives you a rough idea of how this would look. The key to weaving MLV (or any barrier material) is to seal the vinyl as best as possible. In the case of a horizontal weave (most common weave) it is best to overlap the seams by at least 1? and seal that overlap with acoustical caulking as well as a quality seam tape. The weaving of MLV also aids in the defusing of sound waves. This works much like the dissimilar materials except ?turbo charges it?.

You can also use the weave on a standard stud wall provided there is no drywall installed on either side of the studs. (just open studs) This weaving method can be foiled by stud cross members, so it is best to have only vertically installed studs if you are planning to do the weave. If you weave the MLV on a normally studded wall, there may be problems with the drywall sitting level on the studs. If your studs are 16? on center, then every other stud will have 1/8? of increased width compared to the studs that don?t have the MLV weaved a top of them. To keep the drywall even on both sides, a sound isolation tape can be adhered to every other stud that that is not covered with the weaved MLV this will make all of the stud surfaces flat and even and the drywall will rest evenly on the studs.

From the feedback of our contractors in the field, we have discovered that the more a wood structure is dampened, the better the soundproofing will be in a wall or ceiling assembly. This is especially true for impact noise from above. There are many ways to dampen a wood frame assembly and some are more effective than others. Some contractors have used blown in cellulose in order to dampen the joist or stud structures, but cellulose has no mass and though it will help to a degree, it is much less effective than using blown in closed cell foam, or my favorite (which requires some ceiling demo) is to line the cavity areas between studs and joists with a closed cell vinyl nitrile foam mat (America Mat is a great choice) for maximum dampening. The foam mat would be glued to the studs and the wallboard in the stud cavities (provided you have drywall on one side of the wall only). This insures that the wooden structure is completely dampened and if sealed properly will offer extra soundproofing as a result of sealing those cavities. Sealed dead air space is God?s natural soundproofing method, as I like to call it. I am sure you have read many of the analogies regarding sealed dead air. If you were able to seal the dead air space and actually create a vacuum in that space, you?d be amazed at the amount of sound transmission that would be blocked.

I hope this little narrative helps you especially if you are doing new construction for a home theater, or music sound studio in your home. Thanks for reading and learning together. This is Dr. Bob?..Out!!!!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Cheap soundproofing using American Sound Isolation tape.

American Sound Isolation tape is a great way to give you new home or addition some good soundproofing without spending a fortune. This sound isolation tape comes in 100 lineal ft rolls and it 1 7/16 " wide or basically the width of a stud or joist end. You simply peel off the backing and adhere to the Isolation tape to the face of all of the studs or the joist prior to screwing in the sheetrock. This will isolate the stud or joist structure from the finished drywall. This isolation helps to reduce airborne sound transmission as well as structure borne transmission through the studs or joists. There is another method that employs the American sound isolation tape and that is to double layer it on every other stud. If your studs are 16 OC then you will be taping every other stud at 32" OC. Once you have double taped every other stud, you will screw your drywall only into the taped studs. This will not only give you the isolation of the wood or steel structure from the outer wallboard, but it will give you the same effect as staggered studs. This method can be employed on both sides of the studs and to the end facings of joists. You can even tape the joists above before installing a sub floor, which will help to isolate the sub floor from the joists and the ceiling below. If you are in the process of new construction or remodeling where you have removed all drywall, taping the studs and joists with the American Isolation tape is essential. If you are remodeling or under new construction, American Sound Isolation tape is an effective and economical way to give your drywall the isolation it needs from the wood structure. This isolation will help to give you some good soundproofing between bedroom walls for example and doesn't cost you an arm and a leg to install. There are many other uses for American Sound Isolation tape that I just couldn't fit into this article. Builders and contractors across the United States and Canada are now using American sound isolation tape as a low cost soundproofing alternative to the more costly foams and barriers. For more information on American sound isolation tape or other quality soundproofing products go to my blog at: http://massloadedvinyl.blogspot.com/ Thanks for reading and learning about American Sound Isolation tape. This is Dr. Bob...Out!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O. Soundproofing America, Inc. Senior Technical Director Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079 E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.

5 Quick Roofing Contractor Tips

Your roof is one of the most important yet neglected parts of your home. You don't usually think about your roof until it starts to leak or gets damaged. If it is time to have your roof replaced read these 5 quick tips to help you with your roofing project.

1. Get a written contract. Get everything in writing before your roofer begins work so that there are no surprises. The bid should be detailed giving you prices for labor, materials, etc.

2. Check your roofer out before you begin work. Don't just ask for references, pick up the phone and call them. Also make sure that they are licensed and insured.

3. Never pay for the job all up front. Most companies will want some sort of down payment but you should never pay for the entire job before it has been completed.

4. Get multiple bids. Don't just get one or two bids. This is a big job and you need many bids to compare. Beware of the lowest bidder and remember that you do not want to be ripped off and you also get what you pay for.

5. Be wary of con artists. Watch out for lowballers wanting large deposits or contractors who knock on your door soliciting. If a deal sounds too good to be true it probably is.

Having a roof replaced is a big job. Take your time, do your homework and you will get through this home repair project easily.

Learn more about local roofers at the authors website. Find information on roofing and roofs.

Quality Online Roofing Resources

I recently had the need to come up with relatively useful definitions of some roofing terms and also some guides and opinions regarding roofing methods. I stumbled upon some useful online resources that provide the things that I need and also may also be helpful to other users out there.

Here is a list and some descriptions of some of the sites I have found:

1. Garlandco.com - It is a roofing company that has been in business since 1895. What generally caught my attention was their PowerPoint presentation that provides an overview of the most common types of roofing systems that are available in the commercial market place today. Other information include in the presentation are brief description, history and application of each system and lastly, the advantages and disadvantages of each roofing system.

2. Roofing.com - It is a forum all about roofing. Its main feature is a forum area where there are active members. All posts are related to roofing and most members are highly knowledgeable when it comes to roofing both in theory and in practice.

It also has a Knowledge base area wherein forum members can give inputs like answers to frequently asked questions and some roofing guides. Within this area, you can find the definitions to most roofing terms.

The site also has a section wherein you can view the number of roofing jobs available per state. It also has a directory of roofing companies categorized by state. All in all, the site is quite user-friendly and highly informative. Most of my friends also think that it is one good online resource site if the subject is roofing.

3. Roofersreview.com - Is a highly informative site dedicated to roofing. Here you can find local roofers through browsing photos of their works. Also, this site has been suggested to me by members of Roofing.com. They say the pictures they upload to this site help them get quick answers from other users of the forum.

I would include the other sites that I find useful in another article which I may finish by next week. Until then, I hope you get the maximum benefit that you can from the following sites.

Jasper Bautista is a Webmarketing Specialist of Agents of Value who is currently handling Roofing.com

Building Waterproofing - Keep Your Structure And Investment Safe From Water Damage

The concept of waterproofing or protecting buildings against the damaging action of water derives from the need to avoid water and humidity related elements that act negatively upon constructions. This negative effect can present itself in several ways, creating health problems, structure deterioration, facility damage and others. Not to mention, that repairing a building damaged by water can be very expensive!

Permeability most frequent causes are: porous or flawed material, badly sealed splices, crack existence, building defects and inadequate surface pendant.

However, we can find different kinds of humidity: the one that gets in from the outside (because of rain, different kind of water infiltrations, ground humidity or underground water), building's own humidity (permanent or because of the construction) and the one produced gradually by the building (because of its service as well as due to condensation and water leaks).

Basic conditions for waterproofing involve the surface's fitness for treatment and its cleanness. Building waterproofing can be done in a surface with/without the presence of water and with/without previous treatment.

Building Waterproofing Systems

Based on water's origin and effects on buildings and concrete, waterproofing systems have been classified:

- Surface waterproofing: done with coating plates, bituminous emulsions, vinyl pastes, resins and sealants.

- Integral waterproofing: integrated to the mass of concrete, affecting its permeability.

- Hydrophanous waterproofing: integrated to the mixing water or used as curing systems, allow the improvement of concrete's characteristics such as workability, compression resistance, decrease of reinforcement steel corrosion, decrease of fissures and cracks, and extended durability.

Kinds of Waterproofing

- Rigid waterproofing is meant to seal filtrations, make waterproof concrete structures or waterproof coatings. Treatments for rigid waterproofing generally are: concrete and cement integral additives, and cement, epoxic, plastic, or metallic coatings.

- Flexible Waterproofing is intended for structures affected by temperature changes and water settlements. This kind of waterproofing is a protection capable of absorbing movements without suffering damages that could allow water access. Flexible treatments are membranes, hot asphalts, cold asphalts (based in water or solvent), polymer emulsions, vinyl emulsions, and acrylic emulsions.

To fit your particular needs, you will probably need to use one or a combination of the above kinds and systems of building waterproofing. The best way to go is to ask an expert in your area to help you find the best solution for your building.

Something is for sure, if you take good care of waterproofing your building you will keep your structure and investment safe from water!

The information for this article was kindly provided by Sika Mexicana, company part of Sika Group, world renowned manufacturer of specialty chemicals for construction and industry. For more information visit http://www.sika.com.mx

Leftover 4th Of July Fireworks Are Great For Bomb Proofing The Horses

The Goal

I was working with Vego and Gemini today. I have been working on desensitizing them to loud noises. The final goal is 1) to be able to shoot a gun while sitting on their backs and 2) to be able to ride them down a street filled with people, flying streamers, loud noises, fireworks, etc. Basically, I am trying to bomb proof my horses.

Look What I Found

4th of July had just passed and I still had fireworks. When I was younger I would have never had any firework left over. That would be a sin. I guess I have slowed down a bit and it is not so important to light every firework off or see how many I could light at a time before I had to run away from the eruption of flames, sparks and explosions I had initiated at ground zero. Because of my new found self control, we had some Black Cats left over. These are the little fireworks that just explode and make a big bang. I had 2 packs left with 100 firecrackers in each. So, what should I do with these firecrackers? I could save them till next year. No way! I recalled reading many forum entries were people had posted topics about the 4th of July and how the fireworks scared their horses. I would reply and tell them that they should desensitize their horse to these noises. So, that is just what I decided to do with my horses.

4th of July All Over Again for Vego and Gemini

I decided to start my lesson with Vego. Gemini was in a holding stall next to the arena where I was working with Vego so she could hear and see everything going on. I had a rope halter and lead rope on Vego. I then started to walk Vego around the outside of the arena. While doing this my 11 year old son was in the center of the arena. He started to light the firecrackers one by one. Bang! The horse was a little bit startled but we just kept walking. Again the firecracker went off and Vego jumped but we just kept walking. My son continued to light firecrackers one by one and I continued to walk around the arena circling in closer to the center. When we eventually circled to the center of the arena we stopped. One by one my son threw firecrackers all around the horse. He did not throw them so close that it could hurt the horse but rather out in front of the horse or behind the horse 6-10 feet away on either side. Near the end of the lesson, in the center of the arena, Vego was not bothered by the firecrackers. He would not even flinch as they exploded.

I repeated the same procedure with Gemini. She did equally as well. As a grand finally we lit off a string of about 20 Black Cats while walking the horses around the arena. They had no problem with noise and continued to walk at a relaxed pace.

Conclusion

This was not the first desensitizing exercise that I had done these horses. The results I had during the firecracker session went very smooth because I have at least one desensitizing exercises every time we have a training session.Todd Mera is a Biochemist that has always had a love for horses. Todd started training horses in his 30s. He has worked with and trained many horse starting from birth and older problem horses. http://www.EverythingEquus.com

Rodent Proofing Your Home

It's that time of year where rats and mice are apt to enter our homes. Lets talk a bit about their abilities and senses first.

Rats and mice cannot see very good beyond 3 or 4 feet but have a very good sense of motion up to 30 to 50 feet away and for the most part they are color blind. Rodents are most active at night.

These rodents have a very good sense of taste so baits may be rejected by them if they are contaminated with insecticides or odors from other chemicals. Even touching baits after smoking a cigarette will make these rodents to shy away from the baits.

Rats and mice also have a good sense of smell. They mark pathways with urine and use their sense of smell to recognize the odors of the pathway to and from food sources.

Their hearing is much better than humans and make noises in various situations such as mating.

Rodents have a highly developed sense of touch due to their sensitive body hairs. They rely heavily on touch and smell to guide them through movements. The territories of most rats are between 50 and 150 feet from the nest. For mice the average territories within buildings are between 10 and 30 feet.

Rodent Proofing Your Home

The best way to control mice and rats is to make it impossible for them to enter your home. That can be difficult with mice because they can pass through an opening only 3/8 inch thick. In general, all openings greater than 1/4 inch thick should be sealed for mice and all openings greater than 1/2 inch should be sealed for rats.

Check all openings around utility lines that enter your home, around service conduits such as water pipes, electric wires, air-conditioning units, drain pipes and vents should all be sealed. Also check for broken windows and unscreened vents. Vents should be covered with metal grillwork backed by rust-resistant screening. Roofs should be checked to see that shingles are down tight and sheathing is complete. Check roof ventilators, screen vents and in wall vents.

Make sure you check under sinks where pipes enter the wall. This is a great area for mice and rats to enter your home or business.

Copper mesh stuffing, course steel wool, sheet metal, hardware cloth and mortar can be used to seal the spaces around these areas. Just use your imagination.

These are not all areas that mice and rats can enter your home. Its impossible for me to think of everywhere. Like I said, just use your imagination.The author of this article has been in the pest control industry for 13 years and has cleaned many homes of rodents and other pests and insects. For more information on rodents and other pests and insects visit his web site. http://www.infobreaks.com

Basic Methods of Foundation Waterproofing

It is absolutely necessary to waterproof the foundation of your home. Foundation waterproofing is a critical step in maintaining your home's value and an important measure for preventing very serious damage. Usually done by professionals, foundation waterproofing is generally not recommended as a do-it-yourself project. Your home is likely your biggest investment, and foundation waterproofing is imperative in order to protect that investment. Ideally, foundation waterproofing takes place as the home is being built, but years of settling and water leakage or negligence on the part of the contractors often leaves the home's foundation unprotected.

One short-term waterproofing method is the use of black tar for foundation waterproofing, but this is certainly not recommended. Keep in mind that this is a very short-lasting method that will dry out, crack and let water seep back in within five to eight years. In professional terms, tar is used as a damp-proofing method rather than a waterproofing method. If you do choose to attempt do-it-yourself foundation waterproofing, it is recommended that you use rubberized liquid membrane, which is basically the same material that automobile tires are made of. The liquid membrane is quick drying, inexpensive and generally easy to apply. It can be applied with a roller, sprayer or trowel. Be aware that by using this method, you run the risk of inconsistently applying the membrane. Pay careful attention to ensure it is properly applied.

Again, foundation waterproofing is generally left to the professionals. There are materials and methods available for people who wish to do it themselves, but it's a good idea to do some research first as it is important to get the job done right.

Waterproofing Info provides detailed information on waterproofing systems, as well as waterproofing contractors and consultants. Waterproofing Info is affiliated with Business Plans By Growthink.

Thatch Roofing Shingles

Traditionally speaking, thatch roofs were the ultimate roofing choice for making one's home look cozy, ethnic, or even tropical. The making of thatch roofs hails back to prehistoric times when early men had started building their huts and covered them with thatched roofs typically made out of straw, reed, or grass.

Over the years of course, original thatch roofs have lost out in a big way to faux or synthetic thatch shingles that have flooded the market. The idea is to experience the joys of a traditional thatch roofs without the disadvantages that one might have faced while using it in its original form.

Going by recent trends, there are a number of synthetic thatch shingles available, made mostly out polythene fibers that come with a strong U.V. resistant guarantee. These fibers are carefully blended with a thin but tough waterproofing membrane and can protect the owner from the elements quite effectively. Manufacturers provide warranties against color fastness, decay, and rot.

The polythene fibers used to make the shingles are actually tiny plastic particles and a polyurethane-binding strip is used to bond these particles and form a shingle. These can be easily used on any existing roof for a very low installation cost. Although expert professional advice is always welcome, owners can install these thatch shingles themselves without much trouble.

These shingles come in shades of yellow and gold to give a natural straw-look. Brownish-green shades are also available that give the shingle a palm-appearance and reminds one of tropical islands.

Outside the United States, thatch shingles have become very popular in South Africa. Thatch shingles like the ones that have a bamboo or eucalyptus lath finish are becoming increasingly popular.

These synthetic shingles can be installed not only on high-slope roofs but also on low-slope ones. With life expectancy of a minimum of fifty years, these shingles create a perfect blend of nostalgia and modernity.

Shingles provides detailed information about shingles, cedar shingles, fiberglass shingles and more. Shingles is affiliated with Home Foundation Repair.

Other Roofing Products VS Metal Roofing Products

While most people know only roofing panels made of metal, in reality, there are many metal kinds of roofing products being produced. They are in demand these days for their affordability and industrial usefulness. Several types of these metal roofing products have been used years ago but are now in style again.

Here are some other product materials being used in roofing, which can be compared to metal:

1. Asphalt shingles are used for up to the whole surface of a roof in the United States. They are used to evaluate factors such as wind resistance, fire, tear strength, and other performance gauge. They come in standard or designer varieties.

The standard type is light-textured with a flat surface while designer types are heavily textured. Metal does not have these characteristics. It is actually up to your decision how well you will like this kind of roofing product material once you try using it.

2. Wood shingles and shakes are also used in metal roofing. They are commonly made from redwood, cedar, southern pine and other woods. Handmade wood shingles have rougher looking appearance compared to machine-sawn types.

They are not used these days as some building codes prohibit them due to susceptibility of catching fire. Most of them have class C ratings in construction materials. In comparison, class A products are applied with a fire-resistant coating. You can definitely choose metal over wood, as they are more fire retardant.

3. Tiles are also used and are a very durable product material. The Spanish round-topped and mission tiles are used widely on Florida and nearby places. There are also flat styles to get an impression of English and French look.

There can be various colors and finishes. Tiles are heavy, if you want to replace your roof with tiles, make sure the load can be supported by the structure. Heavy means too much load and roofing products must be lightweight and can be transported easily. It may not be advisable to use.

A roof can be fitted with metal roofing from small to big structures. Architecture and builders can use different roofing products to achieve the desired effect. As with the client's preference, they can modify appearance, aesthetic, and performance or various materials.

These roofing materials may come in copper, steel, aluminum and other steels. Most of them are made of recycled materials and coated or treated to prevent corrosion or rusting.

For tips on installing metal roofing, visit http://www.metalroofing101.com