Everything Your Need To Know About Basement Waterproofing

Waterproofing your basement is an essential project to take on in order to avoid some very serious and costly problems later on down the road. During the hot summer months you will typically not have many problems with regards to your basement being wet, but when the rainy season arrives you will definitely start to notice areas that need improvement. Perhaps you may experience a flooded basement floor or maybe some heavy condensation build-up.

If you are living a newly build home, the chances of you having serious basement waterproofing problems are slim to nothing. Newer homes are usually pretty well waterproofed. It?s the older homes that you need to worry about. Anything built before the year 1970 will need to be inspected for poor waterproofing. In the past, the construction of homes was not as good as it is today, which is why there tends to be more problems with older homes.

Aside from poor construction, other issue may lead to waterproofing issues. For instance, through out time you may have a water protection system start to break down. As this system becomes less and less efficient, you will start to have problems with excess water entering into your home. Your basement will be the first place to start showing signs of wetness. Whatever you do, don?t ignore this problem. The problem will only become worse if you neglect it.

It is extremely important to fix a wet basement problem. In the beginning stages of a wet basement problem, you will start to smell an unpleasant odor. Some people ignore this odor until the problems becomes worse. As the problem begins to progress, it will start to form mildew. The mildew will continue to spread and start damaging furniture in your basement and other important items. Furthermore, mildew leads to pests and breathing difficulties if you are exposed to it for long periods of time. For these reasons, it is better to waterproof your basement before it causes serious damage to your house and to those that live in it.

Bottom line, if you notice a leak in your basement, or any other form of water damage, it is recommended that you have your basement inspected by a professional as soon as possible. The amount of waterproofing needed will depend upon how large the leak actually is and the amount of pressure that is being applying to the wall. If the problem is detected early enough then your waterproofing project should be rather simple and cost effective.

For more information regarding waterproofing basements, and to get a free estimate on basement waterproofing from a prescreened contractor visit www.WaterproofingKey.com

Pest Control - Pest Proofing

There are a lot of us who will freak out at the sight of just one unwanted bug in our home. We may not care in the least about seeing one of these critters outside - but just one crawling across the floor where we can see it will cause us to use whatever means necessary to eradicate every indoor pest we can.

Roaches, ants, centipedes, silverfish, spiders and other assorted creepy crawlies are all unwelcome in our homes. Some of these guys we wouldn't give a second thought to if we saw them on the sidewalk. But let us see one on the wall and our whole agenda changes. To avoid having to experience these life-changing situations, you can pest proof your home.

Pest proofing involves keeping what's outside, outside. Most pests that we see in our home are coming there from outdoors. Often they come inside because of changes in the weather such as cooler temperatures after summer or because of heavy rains. Pest proofing involves making the house safe from their unwanted entry. Successfully pest proofing your house can prevent your ever having to see another unwelcome 6 or eight or even more legged guest.

Here are some steps you can take to make your house pest tight.

Repair all holes around the house and garage to prevent bug (and mouse for that matter) entry. Use metal hardware cloth or steel wool to seal off holes so that not only can they not get in, but can't chew or bite through the sealed hole either. Using wood will work if your problem isn't mice or you don't have mice. But if you do wood won't work because they can chew right through any wooden repair. After plugging holes with hardware cloth or steel wool, fill it with cement or mortar.

Seal the bottom of all outside entry doors by installing rubber door sweeps. Anything larger than a 1/16 of an inch gap is an invitation to insects to enter your home. Install seals on the bottom of garage doors too. These should be made of rubber and not vinyl so that they seal properly during cold weather.

Caulk door thresholds on the outside bottom and side edges.

Repair all door and window screens, which will stop the entry of flying insects. Some insects though are too small to be stopped by screens. The only way to prevent their entry is to keep windows closed when they are prevalent.

Bugs can sometimes find their way into your home through floor drains so they may need screening, too.

Use expandable foam or caulk to seal utility entrances into your home such as faucets, wiring, meters, pipes, dryer vents, etc: these are favored entry points into the home for lots of creatures.

Caulk all cracks you find around doors and windows. Clean all surfaces first and remove any peeling caulk or paint before using the caulk. Apply a smooth bead and smooth it with a moistened finger. Clear caulks hide any mistakes made better than colored ones.

Keep the foundation area clear of leaves and other types of yard debris.

Stephanie McIntyre has been a Platinum eBay Powerseller, an eBay Trading Assistant as well as an Educational Assistant trained by eBay. Her company, eSales Unlimited Inc. specializes in training small business owners in using eBay as an additional revenue stream. She maintains a site with information on selling on eBay.

 

All About Roofing

Experts recommend that you repair or replace your roof every ten to thirty years. Since they're the first things exposed to damaging elements of nature (like rain, wind, sun, snow, hail, ice, etc.), it's not surprising that they need a little attention now and then. Of course the climate in which you live will determine how often you repair or replace your roof as well. For example, a roof in a climate that changes from extreme cold temperatures to extreme hot ones year after year after year is prone to problems like brittleness or even crumbling. Roof Styles There are six basic styles of roofs. The most common roofs are gable roofs and you can immediately recognize these types because they're in the triangular shape that we're all familiar with. A flat roof looks just like its name implies. Although there are many variations, most roofs are structured along these two basic styles.

For example, most roofs are sloped (or pitched) and depending upon the climate, a roof may be high pitched or low pitched. High-pitched roofs are found in climates that produce a lot of precipitation. As you might have guessed, precipitation such as snow or rain doesn't stand much of a chance against a high-pitched waterproof and/or thermal resistant roof. In warmer climates, like the southwest, you'll find many buildings and homes with low-pitched roofs. For your protection, your city may mandate a specific roof pitch (measured in degrees). How Roofs Are Born To build a roof from scratch, constructors (more appropriately called, roofers) will more than likely either frame it (put it together) at ground level and then hoist it onto the house, or attach a prefabricated roof onto the house in the same manner. The idea is to build as much of it within easy walking distance before attaching to the top of a home - where roofers later have to climb up and apply additional materials. What Roofs Are Made Of What materials? Well first, roofs begin as 2 x 4s. These act as a roof's frame. Once the frame is built, it's hoisted atop of a house, and then it's covered with plywood, or sheathing. If advisable, your roof's sheathing may be covered with insulating board as well. As a precaution against water damage, vital parts of the roof may even be covered with metal flashing.

Atop of the 2 x 4s, the plywood, and sheathing lies what most of us finally recognize as a roof: it's covering. Coverings range from asphalt to clay tile, and from slate to concrete tile, however most of them are covered with either hot tar or shingles. Shingles are squares of roofing materials overlapped and nailed to the surface beneath it.

When you talk to your contractor about the type of roof you want, you're bound to hear some terminology that you're unfamiliar with. Defining all these new terms is beyond the scope of this article, but you can rest assured that your contractor is well familiar with the lingo and is more than happy to describe your options.

Author Paul White represents FloridaHomeBuild.com. A site designed to help home owners from Florida locate local home contractors with their home improvement projects.

Visit http://www.FloridaHomeBuild.com

Soundproofing Your Fence with Dr. Bob

So you have just purchased your home but when you first looked at it, you didn?t realize just how bad the traffic noise in the backyard really was. Now you are committed to a 30-year mortgage and asks ?What can I do Dr. Bob? Well, I?m glad you asked.

You can construct a soundproof or a sound-control fence. Now will this fence block 100% of the traffic noise? I?m afraid not, but will it make your backyard life tolerable? You bet it will.

There are some things that you need to know about building an effect sound control fence that will make it more effective. First and foremost, you new sound control fence needs to be 8 ft above the noise source. Now you need to check with your city or township to see if they have height ordinances regarding fences. If they will only allow a 6? high fence, you can always build an earthen berm to increase the height of the backyard where the fence will be erected.

Now lets talk about the fence itself. I recommend building a cedar or redwood slatted fence as high as possible, (8ft being the minimum height above the noise source). The term ?Above the noise source? means simply this, if the noise is coming from an automobile muffler, then the fence technically needs to be 8? above the cars tailpipe. This should be simple enough. If you fence isn?t exactly 8? above the noise source will it not be effective? Of course it will, but at the 8? level you will get the best sound blocking.

Let?s talk about constructing your fence. The new redwood or cedar fence will have at least 4? X 4? posts mounted in concrete footings and sunk at least 2 ft into the ground. You will want as stable a foundation as possible for your new sound control fence as you will be adding heavy sound blocking agents to it. Once the posts are set and the concrete has cured, you will then add the fence cross members. These are generally 2? X 4? beams that connect the posts together and offer extra support for the fence slats. Now once the fence framing is complete, you will then be ready for the soundproofing membrane to be installed. You will have already called the professionals at Soundproofing America and ordered a product called ?mass loaded vinyl?. Mass loaded vinyl is a loaded vinyl soundproofing barrier that comes in rolls that are 35?x 4? or 30? x 4 ??. Once you have your rolls of mass loaded vinyl and the acoustical caulk and tape that go with the MLV, you are ready to install the soundproof membrane for your new fence.

Your first step is to stretch the MLV along the frame of the fence, you want to make sure the that the MLV extends all the way down to the ground so that the sound does not leak though the bottom of your fence. Once the MLV is stretched across the fence frame, you will staple or nail the MLV to the frame. I recommend that you overlap the MLV by at least ?? and that you will liberally caulk between the overlap with acoustical caulk. You will also want to caulk the outer perimeter of the MLV membrane with the acoustical caulk. The next step is to tape the caulked Seams only with a PVC seam sealer tape along with the acoustical caulk.

As soon as the MLV membrane is secured to the fence framing and all the seams and perimeter have been caulked and taped, it is time to slat the fence. You will use 8? dog eared slats and but the slats as close together as possible, it is also a good idea to caulk the seams of the slats themselves, but this is absolutely not essential.

I would also recommend slats to the other side of the fence in an effort to protect the MLV membrane from the elements. This is a common practice, but once again is not essentials for good sound blockage.

One final note, some of my customers use a combination of both mass loaded vinyl and America mat closed cell foam as the septum for their sound control fences. By adding the closed cell foam you are adding sound absorption to your fence as well as the best in sound blockage. If you use both of these weather proof products, you will want to leave at least a 1/8? gap between the slats on the side of the fence that faces the noise source. In other words if you are using both America mat and MLV you will need to slat both sides of the fence and leave the gaps on the side facing the traffic for example. These septum fences work great for loud and obnoxious neighbors as well. I hope this give your new hope for having a nice quiet backyard.

This is Dr. Bob?..Out!!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

What is Green Glue and How Does It Work for Soundproofing?

Green Glue is a revolutionary new soundproofing compound that approaches the issues of soundproofing from an entirely different angle. Green Glue is no a sound blocker or a sound absorber of a sound diffuser, but rather it is a sound deadener or damper. I know, I can hear the wheels in your head turning. What is a sound damper? Well, I?m glad you asked. A sound damper is and agent or material that actually stops the transmission of sound through two rigid hard surfaces such as drywall or soundboard.

Here?s how it works, when Green Glue is applied to a second sheet of drywall and then sandwiched in between the existing drywall and this new piece of drywall. The Green Glue will actually change the resonant frequencies of both layers of drywall and will stop their ability to transmit sound.

So are your confused yet. I have a very simply analogy of how the Green Glue actually works. I got this from a customer who was well attuned to the properties of Green Glue.

If you will, visualize your wall as being a drumhead. Now you have one of your kids beat the drum with a drumstick. The drum will resonate loud and clear, as there is nothing restricting the transmission of the sound as the drumstick strikes the drumhead. Now let take that same drumhead and as the child strikes the drum you place your finger on the drumhead. What happens now? The drum is now restricted and cannot transmit the sound or will only transmit a fraction of the sound that it did when the drumhead was unrestricted. I hope this little analogy has shown you how the Green Glue acts as a sound damper when applied between two layers of drywall or soundboard. I sure put Green Glue in perspective for me and I have been in the soundproofing industry for years.

Now knowing that the Green Glue is not a blocking agent or and absorber, it is now absolutely essential that is cover every square inch of the drywall layers. In other words, once you screw the second layer of drywall over top the first with the Green Glue sandwiched in between, it makes no difference that the screws are making a connection between the stud structure and the drywall layers. Why you ask? Because we are damping or deadening the drywall layers, he Green Glue is not a soundproof barrier.

Green Glue fills a very critical gap when soundproofing. It precludes you from having to remove your existing drywall. As far as I am concerned, the less demolition I have to do, the better.

Lastly, Green Glue also works remarkably well when applied to your ceiling. If you live in a condo, apartment or loft and have neighbors above you, you know exactly what I am talking about. Impact noise also known as Footfall noise is some of the hardest noise to deal with. Sure you could spend thousands on expensive hangers and clips and mass loaded vinyl not to mention the labor costs involved, and granted you will get some great soundproofing and impact protection if these materials are installed properly, but with if you use the Green Glue system on your ceiling you can experience a 60%?65% reduction in the amount of impact noise that is transmitted from the unit above. With the cost of housing ever climbing, Green Glue is becoming an essential part of building a home that gives you peace and solitude.

To learn more about Green Glue and how it can help you soundproof your home, go to www.greengluecompany.com there you will find independent test of the Green Glue against mass loaded vinyl, lead foil sheeting, suppress and Quiet rock as well as other damping agents. You will see that Green Glue is by far the most effective sound-damping agent on the market today. If you are in the market for this product or any of out quality soundproofing products, go to: www.soundproofingamerica.com, your #1 Soundproofing resource from coast to coast.

This is Dr. Bob?.Out!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Hiring Roofing Contractors

If you are looking into buying a property or a house, or you are thinking bout getting some home improvement projects for your current house you will know that the roof is a very bid issue, no one wants to move into a house that has a roof that will not survive the next winter. Changing a roof, or even making slight changes and fixing tasks for a roof, is something that can really get in the way of normal life, especially if done in winter, or on a rainy season.

So if you are interested in knowing a little more about roofing and the work, costs and ideas behind having a new roof for your house, you should research this area, and make sure that you understand and know the basic concepts before you even meet with a roofing contractor that will confuse you with dozens of terms and names you have no clue about, and above all, with a price list that will probably knock you off your feet.

Building constructors and engineers have devised additional use of roofing - that is for a stylish ?capping? of the structures they erect. Nevertheless, the style would only last if the materials used would make the roof sturdy and durable.

Through time, man has devised an array of ways to deal with different materials to build roofs, each with its own strong and weak points relative to conditions of weather and area restrictions. These are what roofing contractors know best.

Roofing contractors often do three R?s in roofing:

1. Renew

Roofing contractors can be relied upon when it comes to installing new shingles. They are considered as experts in putting a new cap for a structure.

2. Repair

Roofing contractors also help to correct the problem and to make things better and safe in a building.

3. Remodel

If able to fix the damage, roofing contractors install additional scaffolds and add-ons to keep any other damage from occurring.

If you are surveying for roofing materials, contact first a roofing constructor in order to provide you with several options. Roofing constructors also need to explain the exact roofing materials you need against the materials they want to give you. Budget allocation also influences the final choice of the material to be used for roofing a structure.

As with all other contractors it is always advisable to try and find other people he worked for and see the results, or at least have a short conversation with the owners of houses this contractor made earlier work on, when you are finalizing the details try and have some kind of paper of agreement that you can both sign and that will hold the basic understandings between you and the contractor.

Daniel Roshard is a interior designer that has wide knowledge of home improvement tasks and projects, covering roofing and roof installation costs in one of his sites. Read more about Roofing Costs, and roofing information and buying tips.

Soundproofing On a Budget

Soundproofing your home does not have to cost a fortune. If you are under new construction we all know that money it tight. There are many common hardware store items that can be used for soundproofing that won?t break the bank. Most people don?t think of sand as a soundproofing material, but it actually a very good for soundproofing. If your walls are re-enforced, you can use sand in the stud cavities as a soundproofing material. You must be sure that your walls can withstand the weight of the sand. Always use refined or purified sand, not common beach sand that could cause mold or have other bacterial in it that will cause you problems down the line.

Let?s say you are in the middle of new construction on your new home and you know that one of the rooms is going to be your new home theater. You want that room soundproofed but you budget is already stretched to its limits. Did you know that you can use common rolled roofing material from Home Depot or Lowe?s? Rolled roofing is what is generally used on buildings like chicken coops and other roofs where aesthetics is not an issue but stopping leaks is. Rolled roofing generally comes in 30? long rolls and is 3? wide. I hear the little wheels in your brain spinning at a hundred miles and hour. What am I going to do with all this rolled roofing material? Well, I?m glad you asked. One of the best soundproofing agents on the market today is mass loaded vinyl, (MLV for short) Mass loaded vinyl is a high grade vinyl material that is impregnated with barium salts and silica to give it the same soundproofing properties as lead sheeting without the hazards associated with lead.

Now MLV can cost from $1.25 to $2.00 per sq ft and when you are building your new dream home that just might be beyond your budget. So now enters the rolled roofing material. I am suggesting that you stretch the rolled roofing material across the studs or the joists if you are soundproofing your ceiling. You will staple or nail the rolled roofing directly to the stud structure like a membrane across the face of the studs. The next section of rolled roofing should overlap the first piece by at least 1?. It is essential to caulk the over lap with an acoustical caulk (hey you have to buy something from the soundproofing guy for giving you all this free advice, right?). The acoustical caulk can be purchased from any reputable soundproofing company like Acoustical Solutions, Sound Isolation Company, or Soundproofing America. Any of these companies will carry a good quality acoustical caulk and can ship it to you. Now back to our soundproofed walls. Once you have the rolled roofing in place and you have caulked the 1? over lap, you will also need to caulk around the entire perimeter of the newly installed rolled roofing membrane. There is a little saying we have in the soundproofing industry, ?Caulk is cheap?. I think you get the pun. The point is, use as much caulk as you need to seal every seam gap or crack in your soundproof membrane. You want this roofing material to be as sealed and air tight as possible. Now seeing as the rolled roofing does not have the same soundproofing horsepower as MLV, I would strongly suggest a second layer of the rolled roofing be applied to each wall and to the ceiling area that you that you are soundproofing. Stagger the seams wherever possible This is a small investment to have a soundproof room for your home theater or simply a quiet place to study.

Once you have your 2 layers of rolled roofing installed on your walls and ceiling and everything is caulked liberally, it is time for the finished layer of drywall. I would suggest installing a layer of 5/8? fire code drywall to finish off your soundproofing project. Don?t forget to tape mud and paint the finished drywall.

Now finally I would like to say a little bit about the acoustical caulk. Acoustical caulk is a cheap commodity when compared to the cost of other soundproofing agents, but it is one of the most essential parts of any soundproofing endeavor. Buy a good acoustical caulk and not some cheap silicone caulk. We are already being frugal with the soundproofing material; lets not skimp on the caulk. A good acoustical caulk is OSI-175 SC caulk or Tremco Smoke and Sound caulk. Both of these caulking compounds possess superb acoustical properties. If you have questions about acoustical caulk call one of the online soundproofing companies, they will be glad to help you.

Once the drywall is up and the rolled roofing is completely covered, you will discover that you have a well-soundproofed room and you did it a half the cost of using the professional soundproofing agents. That being said, today?s modern soundproofing products are extremely effective and I feel very reasonably priced compared to other specialized building materials. In this article I just wanted to show that there are other ways to soundproof a wall or ceiling with out using the more costly professional soundproofing agents. I hope this narrative has been informative; it was a pleasure writing it, as there is so little information out on the net about soundproofing. Once again, this is Dr. Bob?Out!

Dr. Bob O. Soundproofing America, Inc. Senior Technical Director Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079 E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com Website: http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Green Glue instead of insulation for soundproofing

Old School soundproofing still believes that batt insulation is a good soundproofing agent. There are some good sound batt insulations out there such as Roxul AFB and Bonded logic's bonded cotton insulation and they work well for both soundproofing and thermal protection, however no batt insulation is strong enough to stand alone as the sole soundproofing material in a wall ceiling or floor assembly.

If you can afford a good batt insulation I always encourage it, but if you are soundproofing as ceiling and are not really concerned about the thermal aspects of the ceiling then I feel adding drywall pieces cut to fit perfectly into the joist cavities and screwed to the sub floor above would be much more effective than any batt insulation. Now to super charge this application I recommend that before you screw the pieces of drywall to the sub floor you apply Green Glue sound dampening compound to the back of the drywall pieces prior to screwing them to the bottom of the sub floor.

Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that is taking the soundproofing industry by storm. It comes in caulk tubes and is applied using a large quart size caulk gun. Basically you would cut the pieces of drywall to fit snuggly between the joist cavities. You would the liberally apply the Green Glue to the backside of the cut drywall and then screw it to the bottom of the sub floor. The Green Glue will be sandwiched between the drywall and the bottom of the sub floor. The tighter you screw the drywall down, the better the soundproofing will be. In essence, the pieces of drywall sporting the Green Glue in their backsides with become a most effective sound dampening system that will dampen the impact noise from above long before it is able to be transmitted into the joists and ultimately into the ceiling below. Now, is more better in this case? Absolutely, if you are able to double or triple the Green Glued layer of drywall you will indeed increase the dampening ability of the drywall and the sub floor and add greatly to the soundproofing endeavor.

Once you have installed your layers of Green Glued drywall pieces into the joist cavities, now would be a good time to install your sound or thermal batt insulation. Now for our finished drywall ceiling, I recommend that we spend the money for 2 layers of 5/8" drywall. You will screw in your first layer of drywall directly to the ceiling joists. Now your second layer will be installed directly over top of the first layer however, you guessed it, I recommend that you apply 3 tubes of Green Glue to each 4' X 8' sheet of drywall that you put up. Once you have finished with the double drywall using the Green Glue, you should immediately detect a lack of annoying noise coming from the people above. You have soundproofed your ceiling and your neighbors don't even have a clue that there was a problem there. How awesome is that? Read more about Green Glue and soundproofing walls, ceilings and floors in subsequent articles, for now this is Dr. Bob....Out!!!

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

You can read more articles on soundproofing on our blog

Old School soundproofing still believes that batt insulation is a good soundproofing agent. There are some good sound batt insulations out there such as Roxul AFB and Bonded logic's bonded cotton insulation and they work well for both soundproofing and thermal protection, however no batt insulation is strong enough to stand alone as the sole soundproofing material in a wall ceiling or floor assembly

Selecting the Right Asphalt Roofing Shingles for Your Home

The Difference between Fiberglass and Organic Asphalt Shingles

Asphalt Shingles are one of the most common choices for roofing materials. As a matter of fact, at least 75% of the homes in the United States use asphalt shingles. Asphalt shingles come in various styles and costs and have warranty packages from 20-40 years.

There are two types of asphalt shingle construction: Fiberglass mat based shingles and Organic mat based shingles.

Fiberglass based shingles are thinner and lighter, as their backing is made out of a fiberglass mat. Note: A bundle of asphalt shingles can weigh between 70 and 140 lbs and there are typically 3 bundles of shingles per square (100 sqft per square of shingles). Consequently fiberglass mat based shingles are easier to lift making a roofer's job easier when carrying shingles up a ladder. Fiberglass mat shingles are also more fire retardant and typically have slightly longer warranties than organic based shingles.

Organic based shingles are heavier and considered more rugged as their mat backing is made out of felt paper and asphalt. They are heavier due to the fact that there is literally more asphalt used in them than a Fiberglass mat shingle. Organic mat based shingles are also considered more flexible than fiberglass shingles, however they are known to be more water absorbent and can warp over time. As a result of these differences Fiberglass mat shingles are used much more prevalently in the southern and central part of the United States, and Organic mat based shingles are used more in the northern part.

Fiberglass Asphalt based shingles used on your home should be compliant with ASTM D-3462 standards, and Organic based shingles used on your home should be compliant with ASTM D-225. More and more municipalities are requiring shingles to meet these standards, so you should check with your local building inspector and read the label on the shingles prior to purchasing them. Fiberglass and Organic mat based shingles are comparably priced. They can range anywhere from $25 to $80 per square.

3-Tab shingles have been around for a long time and are still the most common shingle installed, however more and more homeowners are moving towards architectural shingles. Architectural shingles are a little more expensive but are actually easier to install, as less care is needed in ensuring straight lines. Architectural Shingles typically also have longer warranty periods.

3-Tab shingles typically require greater skill and longer installation times as the roofing contractor needs to ensure that wavy shingle lines are not created when installing the shingles. Architectural shingles, on the other hand, are a little easier to install as the lines and shadows are designed to be more complex. As a result, imperfections in the installation process of architectural shingles can be more difficult to see.

Architectural shingles typically cost most than 3-Tab shingles, however their cost may be somewhat mitigated by a lower installation cost.

Whatever shingles you decide to use, make sure you read the shingle packaging labels and check with your local building inspector first. Your home's roof is one of the most import aspects of your home. An improperly installed shingle job or the installation of the wrong shingles can lead to expensive water damage and high repair costs.

For more help on Shingling Your Home's Roof, see HomeAdditionPlus.com's Asphalt Shingle Roofing Bid Sheet. The Asphalt Shingle Roofing Bid Sheet will help to ensure that your roof won't end up with a blue tarp over it and a dumpster sitting in your yard for weeks as you wait for the roofing contractor to come back and finish roofing your home.

Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes and is a licensed real estate agent. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more home improvement information visit http://www.homeadditionplus.com and http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com

Roofing Shingles Installation Basics

When it comes time to replace the shingles on your home, you will need all the information you can get in regards roofing shingles installation basics. Therefore, why not start at the beginning, with the types of roofing shingles. There are four popular categories of shingles, wood shakes, slate, laminated, and asphalt shingles. To know which you should be choosing, you should understand how each one works and what features they have, all of which can help you determine which is right for you.

Asphalt roofing shingles are the most popular of all types. They are constructed with paper, glass, or fiber, with intense durability. These shingles are designed to last between twenty and thirty years.

Laminated roofing shingles are also becoming extremely popular. These shingles have a design that adds depth, color, and character to any room. Constructed with many different materials, such as asphalt, it creates a look of expensive roofing materials, without the large costs.

Slate roofing shingles also referred to as stone shingles are heavy but durable. Popular, but not overly used before it tends to break easy and can be extremely hard to work with. Many people enjoy the natural, handcrafted, and colorful look that slate shingles offer, as well as the durability, which allows the shingles to last for more than 100 years.

Wood roofing shingles, also known as shakes, are constructed with different treated woods such as pine, spruce, or cedar, and although cedar is the best type of wood used. While with first installation, the wood shingles are bright and lively colors, after the first year of use, it will dull quickly to the color of gray. Furthermore, splintering, warping, and shrinking are common complaints with wood roofing shingles, and generally have to be replaced within thirty years or less.

If you simply do not know how to or want to install your own roofing shingles, your best bet is to hire a professional roofer. When contacting roofers make sure that you opt for a company that is well established, carries a business license, and has permanent addresses and telephone numbers. Ask to view the companies insurance, bonding, training, and certificate information.

You will also want to choose a company that provides you with a full, written estimate of every aspect of the job; this includes time of completion, warranty, labor costs, and materials they intend to use. Before choosing a roofing shingles installer, make sure that you obtain a minimum of three estimates. This allows you to compare prices, as well as warranty, services, and ultimately work ethics. Obtain references, this is obviously important, you are entrusting the roofer with a valuable possession, your home. You want to be sure that they are qualified, trustworthy, hardworking, and professional.

Daniel Roshard is a interior designer fascinated by garden architecture, he is currently studying interior design integration to public parks and gardens. Daniel is writing Roof Shingles and Roofing reviews for ZupaTips.com

Childproofing Your Home

One of the most important steps you can take to prepare for a baby is childproofing your home. Little hands will get into things you never even thought of, so being prepared is critical to your child?s safety. Here are some areas of your home that need attention to get you started on your childproofing project.

? Electrical Outlets ? You can buy inexpensive covers to keep little fingers out of your outlets, or simply put a piece of furniture in front of them.

? Cords ? Be they electrical cords or cords for blinds or draperies, they are a risk. Cords from blinds or draperies are a choking hazard, and electrical cords can cause a shock, or can cause baby to pull something heavy (such as the lamp at the other end of that cord) down on top of them

? Rickety furniture ? Be certain that you don?t have unstable furniture around. When your baby begins pulling up, he could pull the furniture right down on top of him. Sometimes it?s necessary to attach furniture, such as top heavy bookcases to the wall.

? Plants ? Some houseplants are poisonous, so be certain to keep plants out of baby?s reach.

? Radiators ? If you live in an older home with radiators, you will need to put barriers in front of them or radiator covers over them during winter months.

? Fireplace ? Be certain your fireplace is equipped with a grill or glass doors to protect your child?s little fingers.

? Stairs ? Install baby gates to keep your little one from tumbling down the stairs.

? Cabinet doors and drawers ? Install childproof latches so that your baby is unable to open drawers and doors, particularly those where you store sharp objects or cleaning supplies.

? Railings ? Be certain that any railings in your home, such as those on your stairs, have no more than a five inch gap between any vertical posts. You?d be amazed at how easily a baby?s head can get stuck.

All of these are important steps to readying your home for those days when baby starts crawling around. But, probably the most important thing you can do is to learn to keep your everyday things put away. Items that adults use regularly, like scissors, pins, coins, buttons and letter openers can all be very hazardous to a baby. It?s going to take some getting used to, but with some preparation, you can organize your life so that your everyday activities don?t put your baby at risk.

Sarah Veda is a 41 year old wife and mother of two boys and one girl. She spent many years as a manager in the corporate world, and gave it up to be a stay at home mom. Go to http://www.infantresources.com now and get her incredible baby minicourse ? absolutely free.

Metal Roofing 101

Today I received a phone call from a nationally published and recognized remodeling magazine in regards to their future article on metal roofing. It turns out that one of their editors tasked with writing an article about metal roofing decided to consult with me after looking at one of the metal roof guides on my metal roofing resource and information library.

Our conversation involve many different aspects of metal roofing and it was what prompted me to publish this metal roofing article, which will hopefully answer a lot of questions that you may have. I believe you will find this guide especially useful if you are considering a re roofing job.

First of all let's address some of the things that you probably already heard about before:

Metal Roofing costs significantly more than regular roofing. Answer to this question is both yes and no.

It turns out that although, initially you will probably pay higher amount for metal roofing than you would with regular roofing material, in the long run metal roofing will pay for itself making a it a no nonsense investment for somebody who is looking for longevity of their roof, its durability, great looks, and energy savings.

What happens is that the higher price you pay for metal roofing initially gets off set by the increased value of the house, or building where metal roofing is installed. In addition to the increased value of your home you will also gain the following benefits:

Long lasting Roof Hopefully you did your homework when selecting a metal roofing contractor, and you chose the knowledgeable and skillful metal roof installers performing the installation of your metal roof. Modern residential metal roofs come with up to 50 years material and labor warranty. Thus you can set it and forget it, figuratively speaking! Thin about how much money you will be saving considering that the average asphalt roof lasts only 17 years.

Beautiful Metal Roof We all love our homes, and with metal roofing our house can attain very desirable and sophisticated looks that could be the envy of the neighborhood! A great variety of metal roofing styles and choices will ensure that every homeowner can find something that they want in residential metal roofing.

Energy Savings Did you know that meta roof can greatly decrease your air conditioning bill during the hot months of summer? One of the significant benefits of metal roofing is that metal has sun reflectivity properties, which allow it to reflect the heat radiation away from your roof keeping your house cool and your energy bill low. That is just one of the ways that metal roof will pay for itself. After all, our monthly air conditioning costs can add up to a big chunk of money during the summer time.

Metal roof Government Tax credit Even the U.S government will provide you with a tax credit incentives if you install the approved select energy star rated metal roof.

Now information above is just common knowledge in regards to metal roofing. Hopefully it has cleared up and answered some of the general questions that you may have had.

Now going back to my todays conversation, I would like to talk about more in depths metal roofing concepts.

Many homeowners have heard about metal roofing before, but have very little idea as to what are the choices and options available to them.

So, I thought it would be a good idea to list three main metal roofing materials used in the industry, as well as touch up on the available metal roofing choices and styles.

Residential Metal Roofing Materials:

Steel: This is the most frequently used metal roofing material today. Steel offers a great degree of durability in metal roofing. It is usually protected by a layer of zinc and aluminum alloy, which protects it from rust and corrosion. Most commonly used steel shingles would be galvanized steel such as G-90, which is sprayed over with Kynar 500, or Hylar 5000.

This type of galvanized steel offers a great degree of protection from corrosion and is known to last over 30 years, in fact Tamko galvanized steel shingles, slates, and tiles come with 50 years material warranty, which shows a great confidence this manufacturer has in their product.

Galvalume steel is another common type of steel metal roofing, it is commonly used in standing seam metal roofing panels that go over many commercial and residential roofs.

Steel has deserved its good reputation as a metal roofing material of choice because of its excellent corrosion resistance and relative affordability.

Aluminum is another popular metal roofing material, which is corrosion resistant and is known to last over 50 years in professionally performed metal roofing applications. It is more expensive than steel, but it is very light weight and very popular among the homeowners.

Copper is perhaps the oldest type of metal roofing material that has been in use for a very long time and is known to last for over 70 years. In fact it is said that copper is getting better as it ages. Copper is highly expensive and that's why it is usually used in limited applications such as the the facial coverings of the windows. There are however complete copper roof systems that are available to be installed over residential properties. They come with a great premium, but there are people who want the best and are willing to pay for it.

Finally, keep in mind that even the best metal roofing system is worthless if it is not installed professionally, so make sure that you do your homework and carefully investigate the prospective metal roofing contractors in your area.

Good luck

Aleksandr Biyevetskiy has been involved with metal roofing installations for many years, and now co owns a Massachusetts based metal roofing company http://www.newenglandmetalroof.com Quality of metal roof installation, and customer satisfaction are the main objectives of new england metal roof. Our website features helpful information about metal roofing, roof prices, and how to guides on roof estimating and measuring.