Soundproofing your Wall

When soundproofing a wall, a lot depends on what sort of noise your were trying to block or absorb. For example, if you were trying to stop a neighbor's loud television noise from coming through the wall into your unit then you would use a barrier material to block the TV noise. Now if you were concerned about your loud music bothering a next-door neighbor, then both a barrier and a damping material would be in order. There are many different methods for soundproofing a wall from neighbors or just from common out-door sound such as aircraft or traffic noise.

If you are working with newly constructed walls that are only framed out and not yet dry walled, you would want to install a layer of sound batt insulation between the stud cavities. This insulation would be a mineral wool, a rock wool or cotton batt insulation and not common fiberglass batts. Once you have filled the cavities with the sound batt insulation you have a choice of products that will be the soundproofing horsepower, so to speak, for the wall. One of the best barrier materials on the market today is a product called American mass loaded vinylÔ. American mass loaded vinylÔ is a loaded vinyl mat that is impregnated with barium salts and silica to give it mass and allow it to emulate lead sheeting. The Mass loaded vinyl; MLV for short would be stapled or nailed directly to the studs. You'll caulk all of the seams as well as the entire perimeter with acoustical caulk. Acoustical caulk remains pliant throughout the life of the caulk and it also maintains the STC (sound transmission class) of the MLV at all of the seams as well as around the perimeter of the MLV. Once you have caulked the seams and the perimeter, you will then tape over the caulked seams with a seam sealer tape. This will insure a tight seal of the MLV membrane on the wall.

After the MLV is completely sealed, you will then drywall over top of the vinyl membrane with a layer of 5/8" drywall. This system is very effective at soundproofing a common wall between condo or apartment units.

There is another method for soundproofing a common between two units where the drywall is already installed and the owner does not want to remove the existing drywall. This method would require the use of a damping product called "Green GlueÔ" Green GlueÔ I a visco elastic damping compound that is applied between 2 layers of drywall or gypsum. You would apply the Green GlueÔ using a large quart size caulk gun. The minimum recommended amount is 2 of the 29 oz tubes per 4' X 8' sheet of drywall. You would lay out the drywall onto sawhorses and then apply the Green GlueÔ to the back side of the new drywall. Once the glue is applied, you would then screw the new drywall right over top of the existing wallboard whatever it may be. Two tubes per sheet of drywall is the minimum, but 3 tubes per sheet is much better. I suggest using 3 tubes of Green GlueÔ per sheet of drywall for all wall and ceiling applications.

These soundproofing techniques will work for home and commercial studios as well as home theaters and music practice areas. I truly hope this has helped you to understand the science behind soundproofing a wall in a apartment or condo setting.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/mass-loaded-vinyl.asp

You can read more articles on soundproofing on our blog http://massloadedvinyl.blogspot.com/

Soundproofing a condo or apartment from upstairs neighbors.

How do I soundproof my condo or apartment from my noisy neighbors upstairs? This is by far the most asked question I hear on a daily basis. It is a question asked by prominent architects, engineers, major developers, and contractors. We are now finding that this is also of major concern of individual homeowners who rent part of their house to tenants. Many factors need to be considered when assessing an upstairs noise issue. The first question you should ask is simply this, is the problem impact noise, or airborne noise (TV's, Stereos, telephones etc.) coming down from above.

Nine times out of ten, impact noise is the main concern. What is impact noise? It is the noise caused by people or animals walking across the floor above (generally hardwood). This type of noise is considered to be structure borne noise and is one of the most difficult noises there is to soundproof from. Impact noise is basically sound that travels directly through the joisting structure from the floor above, directly into the hard mounted ceiling below. Another term for this is known as "foot fall "noise. Impact noise travels through the floor joists structure at speeds of over 1200 times greater than the transmission of sound traveling through ambient air. Keep in mind that most home joist systems as well as studded walls are generally 16 inches on center, so not only do you get the speed of the impact noise shooting downward, but the perfectly spaced joists act as tuning forks thus causing the sound to sustain (last longer) compounding the impact problem. The best and most effective way to stop impact noise from above is to isolate the joist structure and the floor above (which is generally hardwood) from the ceiling below. This can be accomplished in a variety of ways.

The most common is to float (suspend on acoustical sound clips or resilient channels) the ceiling using either resilient isolation clips and furring channels (hat channel) or the most common method of floating, RC-1 (resilient channel). The good, the bad, and the ugly of both these methods will be discussed in depth. First we have the industry standard, which is RC-1 or resilient channel. This is a flanged Z channel (generally with only one flange that attaches to the joist) and a larger flange to support the floated drywall ceiling. RC-1 can be purchased from a drywall supply company, or a contractors supply house.

The resilient channels are usually attached perpendicular to the joists and the rows are evenly spaced approximately 2' to 3' apart. The longer flange (of resilient channels) in a ceiling application will all face the same direction to obtain maximum resilience in the new ceiling assembly. Remember, that the longer flange is the one the drywall screws into. Always use screws when you drywall, never use nails. Once the RC-1 is properly installed across the entire ceiling, you are ready to drywall. The new drywall will be screwed directly through the drywall and into the resilient channel's (longer) 1" flange. You will use 1 to 1 ?" self-tapping drywall screws or in rare cases, sheet metal screws. If the resilient (floated ceiling) is installed as per manufacturers instructions, there will be approximately a ?" gap around the entire perimeter of the new floated ceiling. The floated ceiling must never make direct contact with the adjoining walls. This is NOT negotiable folks. The ?" gap is then filled with an acoustical caulking, (OSI 175 is a good caulk for this application) and then finally the new ceiling will be taped, mudded, and painted just like a like a hard attached joist mounted drywall installation.

The caulk is the interface between the resilient ceiling and the adjoining walls. There you have it, the common mans floated ceiling. Now if you are really serious about soundproofing your ceiling, you have the sound clip and furring channel method of floating. This installation is quite similar to the RC-1 installation, however, the sound clips system will more than double the soundproofing and impact isolation protection of a perfectly installed RC-1 system. Basically you will need one sound clip for every 4 sq ft of ceiling area. For example, if your ceiling is 400 sq. ft. total, you will need 100 sound clips to complete the installation.

Check with the manufacturers installations instructions for more detailed installation information. Once you have the sound clips screwed to the joists, you will then snap in the furring channel. We haven't talked much about metal furring channels or "hat" channel, as they are commonly called, so let me briefly describe this material. Furring channel, or hat channel is a galvanized steel channel that is 7/8" in height and measures 2 3/8" from flange to flange. When using furring channels in conjunction with sound clips, you always want to purchase the 25 gauge channels as opposed to the 20 gauge, which is too stiff for this application. The furring channel will be compressed by hand and will snap perfectly into the joist mounted sound clips. The channel rows will be spaced from 2' to 3' apart (check installation instructions).

The first row will begin about 4" from the adjoining wall and then each row will be spaced from 2' to 3' apart. Now comes the fun part! You will screw the new drywall directly into the furring channel, keeping the screw as close to the center of the hat channel as possible. If the drywall meets directly in the middle of a channel, make sure to stagger the screws down the length of the drywalls (alternate them one each side of the seam). Now, just like with the RC-1 installation, you must maintain a ?" gap around the perimeter of the newly floated ceiling assembly where the drywall does not touch the adjoining walls. Once again, this area will be sealed with the OSI-175 acoustical caulking material, and you will tape, mud, and paint the ceiling as usual. There you have it folks, professional sound isolation at a fraction of the cost that the "Big Boys" charge. A good analogy of the floated ceiling method is to visualize your ceiling as being like a trampoline. The new ceiling must not contact the adjoining walls and thus it is free to do its resilient thing exclusively. Keep in mind that the impact isolation is accomplished at the sound clip and joist connection where there is a thick neoprene rubber grommet on the clip that breaks the circuit between the sub floor above and the newly floated ceiling.

Lastly, if you are able to float 2 layers of drywall on the sound clips, it is recommended that you use Green Glue sound dampening compound between the 2 layers of drywall. I hope this article has been informative and gives you hope that you can indeed soundproof you apartment or condo from those stomping neighbors upstairs.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site.

You can read more http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

Leftover 4th Of July Fireworks Are Great For Bomb Proofing The Horses

The Goal

I was working with Vego and Gemini today. I have been working on desensitizing them to loud noises. The final goal is 1) to be able to shoot a gun while sitting on their backs and 2) to be able to ride them down a street filled with people, flying streamers, loud noises, fireworks, etc. Basically, I am trying to bomb proof my horses.

Look What I Found

4th of July had just passed and I still had fireworks. When I was younger I would have never had any firework left over. That would be a sin. I guess I have slowed down a bit and it is not so important to light every firework off or see how many I could light at a time before I had to run away from the eruption of flames, sparks and explosions I had initiated at ground zero. Because of my new found self control, we had some Black Cats left over. These are the little fireworks that just explode and make a big bang. I had 2 packs left with 100 firecrackers in each. So, what should I do with these firecrackers? I could save them till next year. No way! I recalled reading many forum entries were people had posted topics about the 4th of July and how the fireworks scared their horses. I would reply and tell them that they should desensitize their horse to these noises. So, that is just what I decided to do with my horses.

4th of July All Over Again for Vego and Gemini

I decided to start my lesson with Vego. Gemini was in a holding stall next to the arena where I was working with Vego so she could hear and see everything going on. I had a rope halter and lead rope on Vego. I then started to walk Vego around the outside of the arena. While doing this my 11 year old son was in the center of the arena. He started to light the firecrackers one by one. Bang! The horse was a little bit startled but we just kept walking. Again the firecracker went off and Vego jumped but we just kept walking. My son continued to light firecrackers one by one and I continued to walk around the arena circling in closer to the center. When we eventually circled to the center of the arena we stopped. One by one my son threw firecrackers all around the horse. He did not throw them so close that it could hurt the horse but rather out in front of the horse or behind the horse 6-10 feet away on either side. Near the end of the lesson, in the center of the arena, Vego was not bothered by the firecrackers. He would not even flinch as they exploded.

I repeated the same procedure with Gemini. She did equally as well. As a grand finally we lit off a string of about 20 Black Cats while walking the horses around the arena. They had no problem with noise and continued to walk at a relaxed pace.

Conclusion

This was not the first desensitizing exercise that I had done these horses. The results I had during the firecracker session went very smooth because I have at least one desensitizing exercises every time we have a training session.Todd Mera is a Biochemist that has always had a love for horses. Todd started training horses in his 30s. He has worked with and trained many horse starting from birth and older problem horses. http://www.EverythingEquus.com

Slate Roofing Tile for Classic Beauty

Slate roofing tile is a wonderful look for any home. Slate is natural stone, and it is one of the best roofing tile mediums available. The look of Slate roofing tile is exceptional and some of the most famous houses in America are adorned with Slate roofing tile. Many historical homes have Slate roofing tiles, and this makes it even more alluring to homeowners. For those who are investing in an old home, and want to remodel but keep its original look, slate roofing tiles are a must.

Slate Roofing Tiles: The Look of Elegance

Slate roofing tiles will give any home a look of elegance and a touch of class. Slate roofing tiles come in a variety of colors, sizes, shapes, and details. Choosing to add Slate roofing tiles to your roof should be a matter of serious thought and decision. You will want to browse the various styles and choose the color and texture slate that feels best for you. You should do your homework before deciding upon Slate roofing tile.

If you aren't that experienced with roofing materials, you should find a contractor who has great references and is a licensed contractor. By working with a professional, you can have all of your questions answered ahead of time, and feel more competent that you are making the best tiling decision for your roof. Don't hesitate to look up information for yourself either. Feel free to browse through the Internet or resources at your local library to help you decide which Slate roofing tile options are best for you. If you know someone who has had their roof redone, then ask them for recommendations.

The colors of Slate roofing tiles vary and they can be spectacular. The effect and enhancement that Slate roofing tiles will add to your house will not only make it more beautiful, but it will increase your home value as well. You should look for contractors who will offer you a free estimate before you make a final decision. Make sure that you verify with the contractor that the estimate will be free.

Carlo Morelli is a contributor to www.OnlineTips.Org, where you can read tips on how to install fiberglass insulation and basement dehumidifiers

Why Metal Roofing Is The New King Of Roofing Materials

AESTHETICS
Metal roofing has the most aesthetic variety of any roofing material and can come in almost any color and be stamped in a variety of shapes and designs such as cedar shakes, tile shingles and other traditional styles.

50 YEAR WARRANTY
Many metal roofing manufacturers provide a 50 year or lifetime warranty on their products. Metal roofs have lifespans of 2 - 3 times longer than traditional asphalt roofs and are virtually indestructible. A longer lifetime can actually save you money over having to replace an asphalt roof 2 or 3 times in the same period of time.

WINDSTORM PROTECTION
Many metal roofs are guaranteed to withstand winds of 120 miles per hour, and are a perfect roofing solution for coastal areas and other areas susceptible to windstorms and hurricanes. Almost 80% of all metal roofing installations are homeowners having to replace a damaged roof and are upgrading to a stronger roofing systems.

HAILSTORM PROTECTION
Metal roofing is also very durable against hailstorms and other severe forms of weather. Many metal roofing manufacturers have earned Class-4 hail-resistive ratings which is the highest hailstorm rating a roofing product can receive.

ENERGY EFFICIENT
Metal roofs are energy efficient because most are coated with special reflective paints that reduce the temperature of the roof.

COOLS YOUR HOUSE IN SUMMER
In addition, most metal roofing installations have an air channel below them which allows natural ventilation to further dissipate heat and to prevent direct radiation of the heat into the housing structure.

FREE TAX CREDIT
Many metal roofing products will qualify for a $500 energy tax credit which you can claim with the IRS.

EARTH FRIENDLY
Aluminum metal roofing is often made from recycled aluminum cans and is considered a recycled product and can help reduce our impact on the earth’s natural resources.

LIGHTWEIGHT
Metal roofing is one of the lightest roofing materials available in the marketplace and usually do not require roof brace and rafter reinforcing like tile and concrete roofs. In earthquake zones sleeping under a lighter roofing system can give you greater peace of mind.

MAINTENANCE FREE
Metal roofing is virtually maintenance free. There is really nothing you have to do to maintain this roof.

FIRE RESISTIVE
Metal roofing is considered to be a fire retardant material and can help lessen the chance of fires spreading when burning embers land on the roofing surface. Several home insurance companies will give a premium discount to homeowners that have a class-4 rated metal roof as it reduces your risk of fire, wind and hail damage.

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S.A. Smith is a freelance writer, contributor, and editor of the Steel Metal Roofing information portal which reports on the latest metal roofing construction news and developments in the steel and metal roofing industry.