Building and Soundproofing a Home Recording Studio

"How do I soundproof my garage, basement, or a bedroom in my single family house or condo so my 4 piece rock band can practice and record and not bother the neighbors?"

If I had a dollar for every time I was asked this question, I would be in the Bahamas right now, instead of writing this article. Many factors need to be considered prior to beginning your studio or practice room-soundproofing project. Some of the questions you should be asking yourself are: What type of amplification will the band be using, are the drums going to be acoustic and miked or are they digital. Are you going to be recording live late at night or are we going to be doing "line in" recording only? These questions and many more need to be considered before the actual construction begins. If live recording and rehearsal are the plan, then maximum soundproofing will be needed. The most effective way to soundproof a garage, basement, or bedroom is to actually construct a room within a room (go to www.auralex.com) and download the free booklet "Acoustics 101", this is a wonderful resource for the home studio builder.

Their ideas are solid and applicable to any studio-soundproofing project. The room within a room concept utilizes the sealed dead air space that is captured between the inner walls and the outer walls to help greatly with the soundproofing endeavor. It is probably easiest to frame the walls on the floor and then tilt them up into place thus making dry walling the outside of the walls much easier. It is also highly recommended that another ceiling be joisted out for the room within a room, however, this is often times not possible due to space constraints.

In this case, the existing ceiling and ceiling joists may be used as the ultimate ceiling for the studio, provided that it is adequately soundproofed with materials such as the mass loaded vinyl or a combination of closed cell foam mat and MLV. I will elaborate on these materials, as we get further into this article. Once the walls are framed out and the right amount of "Dead air space" is determined, then it is time to install the soundproofing. The first order of business is to consider what needs to be done to the wall cavities prior to installing a barrier and finally the wallboard. I like to line the inside cavities with a closed cell vinyl nitrile foam mat such as American Mat. This mat (generally 1/4" thickness) is adhered to the inside cavity walls as well as the studs and joists using a contact cement to adhere the mat. Keep in mind that the American Mat is used to line the cavities only, not to fill the cavity. If thermal insulation is needed, use products such as rock wool, mineral wool, cut wool fibers, or my favorite, Roxul. Roxul is a great thermal rock wool based batt type insulation that has great soundproofing qualities. If thermal insulation is a requirement for the practice room or studio, then Roxul is the way to go.

Now we come to a crossroads, it is time to determine if decoupling the walls using resilient channels or American Sound clips is a necessity. De coupling is used when impact transmission or low frequency noise is a factor. Impact would come primarily from the drums (acoustic type) or the bass amplifier. However, if the band is using Marshall high powered amps (50 watt amps with 4 X 12 cabinets for example) along with miked acoustic drums and an Ampeg bass system, then decoupling will most likely be necessary. These methods and procedures will be explained in later articles. If decoupling were determined to be unnecessary, then the next step would be to find a good barrier material such as American mass loaded vinyl (which is a high grade mass loaded vinyl barrier). This barrier could be stapled directly to the studwork on a wall assembly or directly to the joists. This is a method that is used if cost or space constraints are factors. If the barrier material is to be stapled directly to the stud or joist framing then it is best that the seams be over lapped, caulked (using OSI acoustical caulking compound) and then taped with either a lead tape or a heavy-duty PVC seam tape.

Once the Mass Loaded vinyl (MLV) is installed and sealed, it is time to install the final layer of drywall. I always recommend using 5/8? drywall as the final layer because of its mass and its sound blocking abilities. . It is always advisable to butter the edges of the last layer of drywall with acoustical caulk. You want to grab every STC (sound transmission class) point you can when trying to make your new studio as soundproof as possible. Finally you will tape mud and paint your final layer of drywall. Now you have a great soundproof home recording studio. We will discuss acoustical treatments for your studio in subsequent articles, but for now you are well on your way to having a professional grade-recording studio in your home.

Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
Website: http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Green Glue instead of fiberglass insulation for soundproofing

Old School soundproofing still believes that batt insulation is a good soundproofing agent. There are some good sound batt insulations out there such as Roxul AFB and Bonded logic's bonded cotton insulation and they work well for both soundproofing and thermal protection, however no batt insulation is strong enough to stand alone as the sole soundproofing material in a wall ceiling or floor assembly. If you can afford a good batt insulation I always encourage it, but if you are soundproofing as ceiling and are not really concerned about the thermal aspects of the ceiling then I feel adding drywall pieces cut to fit perfectly into the joist cavities and screwed to the sub floor above would be much more effective than any batt insulation. Now to super charge this application I recommend that before you screw the pieces of drywall to the sub floor you apply Green Glue sound dampening compound to the back of the drywall pieces prior to screwing them to the bottom of the sub floor. Green Glue is a visco elastic damping compound that is taking the soundproofing industry by storm. It comes in caulk tubes and is applied using a large quart size caulk gun. Basically you would cut the pieces of drywall to fit snuggly between the joist cavities. You would the liberally apply the Green Glue to the backside of the cut drywall and then screw it to the bottom of the sub floor. The Green Glue will be sandwiched between the drywall and the bottom of the sub floor. The tighter you screw the drywall down, the better the soundproofing will be. In essence, the pieces of drywall sporting the Green Glue in their backsides with become a most effective sound dampening system that will dampen the impact noise from above long before it is able to be transmitted into the joists and ultimately into the ceiling below. Now, is more better in this case? Absolutely, if you are able to double or triple the Green Glued layer of drywall you will indeed increase the dampening ability of the drywall and the sub floor and add greatly to the soundproofing endeavor. Once you have installed your layers of Green Glued drywall pieces into the joist cavities, now would be a good time to install your sound or thermal batt insulation. Now for our finished drywall ceiling, I recommend that we spend the money for 2 layers of 5/8" drywall. You will screw in your first layer of drywall directly to the ceiling joists. Now your second layer will be installed directly over top of the first layer however, you guessed it, I recommend that you apply 3 tubes of Green Glue to each 4' X 8' sheet of drywall that you put up. Once you have finished with the double drywall using the Green Glue, you should immediately detect a lack of annoying noise coming from the people above. You have soundproofed your ceiling and your neighbors don't even have a clue that there was a problem there. How awesome is that? Read more about Green Glue and soundproofing walls, ceilings and floors in subsequent articles, for now this is Dr. Bob....Out!!!

Dr. Bob O. Soundproofing America, Inc. Senior Technical Director Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079 E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com Website: http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Basement Waterproofing - All You Need To Know!

You may not have already thought about waterproofing your basement. However, it might be a good idea to start thinking about it now. You may not find any problems during the hot summer months, but when the rainy season arrives, you will no doubt start to notice the problems an un-waterproofed basement can bring!

What is Basement Waterproofing and Why Should You Do It?

Basement Waterproofing is not usually needed in newer homes as they are generally pretty well waterproofed already. However, older homes, or homes that were built before the year 1970, tend to have a lot more problems due to the fact that construction in the old days was not as good as it is today!

However, it is not only the construction that could be at fault. Over the years, a water protection system of a house can break down and become less efficient. It is only natural that wear and tear happens over the years and that is why older houses are more at risk. This is when you will notice that your basement is quite wet. If you leave that wet problem alone, it will only become worse, so it is always better to get the problem fixed before a major problem arises.

Why exactly should you fix a wet basement problem? Well, at first the wet problem may just cause a slight odor that you may think is nothing really to worry about and generally it is it not. However, the problem then tends to progress into forming mildew and that quickly damages any furniture or other things that may be in the basement. A damp environment generally decays rather quickly!

Another thing to consider is that asthma sufferers will not be able to go into the affected damp room as it could cause breathing difficulties. Finally, a damp environment attracts pests, so you will not only have an extremely wet, smelly, damaged basement, but you will also have a pretty serious pest problem before long, too!

So it is always better to waterproof your basement and be sure that you eliminate any problems before they get too bad.

The Causes of Wet Basements and What Can Be Done About Them

It is only natural for foundations to leak over time, as no foundation stays waterproof forever. Houses move around over the years and that can cause various cracks and gaps that allow water to come in. Sooner or later, water does tend to find a way indoors and the basement is the first room to feel the effects!

So what are the different methods of basement waterproofing? Well the first thing that should be done, is to go around your basement and try to find any gaps or cracks that may be letting water in. If you find any, fill them in with a waterproof compound. You should be able to find something suitable in your local hardware store.

You can also waterproof the walls by using a waterproof mix, again, bought from a hardware store. However, be aware that the waterproof mixture will not work on painted walls, so any paint needs to be removed before the mixture is applied.

Overall, it all depends upon how bad the leak actually is and how much pressure it is applying to the wall to determine what protection it needs. You may need to call a professional to help you if your best efforts do not come to anything. Generally, though, if done early enough, waterproofing your basement should be fairly easy and it is always better to do it every couple of years in order to ensure that you prevent any further problems from occurring.

For more information on basement waterproofing here at my site Basement Waterproofing Information

Soundproofing from loud upstairs neighbors in condo or apartment

One of the most common soundproofing questions I hear most is "How do I soundproof my condo or apartment from those noisy neighbors who live above?" Generally the most annoying noise is what is known as "foot fall" or "impact noise" Impact noise is noise that is caused by heavy walking on the floor of the neighbor above. It can also be caused by chairs dragging across a hardwood floor above or simply the impact of a fork or plate that is dropped on the floor above.

Impact noise is transmitted through the structural members of the floor/ceiling assembly and generally travels down through the floor joists and into the ceiling below at lightening speed. Impact noise is the most annoying noise you will ever have to deal in your condo or apartment. Sometimes it can actually feel like you neighbor is living in your unit. Sound familiar?

When dealing with impact noise, it is always best to completely remove the existing ceiling and start from scratch. This can be a real chore especially if your ceiling is plaster and not drywall. (For plaster ceiling consult local drywall contractor) Once the ceiling has been removed, it is then recommended that you fill the joist cavities with sound batt insulation such as rock wool, mineral wool, or cotton batt insulation. RoxulÔ and GreensoundÔ are common brand names for these batt materials. It is always best to completely fill the cavities with one of these materials, but if you don't have enough of these materials you can always fill the remainder of the cavity with common fiberglass insulation. Just make sure that the first layer of insulation (the layer against the sub floor above) is cotton, mineral wool, or rock wool.

Now that your joist cavities are filled, you will then want to "float your ceiling" on sound clips and furring channels. Float my ceiling? What are you talking about dude? I'm glad you asked; a floated ceiling is a ceiling that is connected to the ceiling joists using a device called a sound clip. Sound clips isolate the joists from the new drywall that will become your new ceiling. Here's how it works. You will screw the sound clips onto the bottom face of the joists and they will run parallel to the joists. The sound clips are then fitted with a metal furring channel also known as "hat channel" because it looks like a Dick Tracy hat if you look at it from the side. Furring channels come in 20 and 25 gauge steel, you can use either gauge with the AmericlipÔ sound clips. The furring channels will run perpendicular to the joists as they are fitted into the sound clips. Once you have all of your rows of sound clips and furring channel installed, you are ready to drywall. There is a trick to floating a ceiling and that is to make sure that your new ceiling drywall does not touch the adjoining walls and is completely independent of the ceiling joists.

You will screw in your new drywall using self-tapping drywall screws that will screw through the drywall and into the metal furring channels. Once you are finished screwing the drywall to the furring channels, you will make sure that you have maintained a ?" gap around the entire perimeter of the new ceiling. This gap will be filled in with acoustical caulk that is designed to remain pliant throughout the life of the caulk. Now that the new floated ceiling is installed and you have caulked in the ?" gap around the perimeter you'll then tape mud and paint the new ceiling as normal.

Now if you are looking for the ultimate in soundproofing from impact noise as well as airborne noise from above, it is recommended that you float 2 layers of 5/8" drywall on the sound clips and furring channel, and between the layers of drywall you will apply a product called "Green GlueÔ". Green GlueÔ is a visco elastic damping compound that when applied between 2 layers of drywall or any rigid wall board, acts to deaden both layers of wall board thus not allowing the drywall to resonate or transmit sound. When the sound is unable to pass through the drywall it dissipates rapidly and turns into heat energy.

To sum this up, the absolute best way to soundproof your ceiling from the noisy neighbors above is to float the ceiling using the Sound clips and furring channel, and then installing 2 layers of 5/8" drywall suspended from the sound clips and furring channels with Green Glue sandwiched between the 2 layers of drywall.

Now if space is an issue or money is a concern, you can get some great soundproofing and impact protection by simply adding another layer of 5/8" drywall to your existing ceiling, applying the Green GlueÔ to this new layer of drywall and then simply screwing the drywall over top of you existing drywall or plaster ceiling. This method will not be quite as effective as the complete floated ceiling system using Green GlueÔ, but if you are on a budget and need effective protection from the impact noise from above, Green GlueÔ is a great way to go.

To learn more about Soundproofing and soundproofing materials visit our site http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/

To order Mass Loaded Vinyl see our site

Make Soundproofing A Part Of Today's Home Improvement

Want a simple behind the scenes way to increase the comfort and value of your home? Soundproofing may sound like something only professional recording artists need, but you will be surprised at how much you will enjoy the added quiet that soundproofing supplies to your home environment.

There are many areas where soundproofing can be added in order to make for a quieter space. Sometimes it the outside disturbances of traffic or barking dogs that you would like to block out. Other times, you may want to keep noises from one room inside your home from seeping into other areas. Depending on the way you want to manage and control sound, there is a soundproofing technique that will meet your needs. Keeping Noise Out One of the most effective ways to keep street noise from entering your home is to soundproof your windows. Normal windows are given a sound blocking rating on a numerical scale. The percentage of noise that soundproof windows can block out increases substantially with these special windows.

The best part of the whole process is that it is easy. When you add soundproof windows to your home it will look just the same as the old windows. In fact, the old windows remain in place and the extra glass barrier is added to them. Windows will still open and close in the same manner too, but the panel of glass and the air pocket created by the double pane greatly reduces noise.

Sound proof windows differ from just plain double pane storm windows. The greatest effect is in the amount of space between the two panels of glass. It is just the right amount to trap unwanted noise, and it has the added benefit of staying clean inside because of the air block seal. Keeping Sound In Another area where soundproofing may be wanted is in a home theatre. If you want to keep the sound from the stereo system from getting distorted or disturbing others around the house, then there are sound proof panels that can be added to the room. These panels are usually made of foam, resembling an egg crate, but other materials are being made and tested every day. These look more like decorative panelling, yet offer the same noise control.

Ceilings and floors can help prevent the escape of noise between rooms. By adding insulation, similar to that which keeps the cold out in the winter and the heat in, you can reduce noise in and out of the room. Soundproofing - Doing It Yourself If you are good the DYI projects, then soundproof is one you can tackle. It is best to leave the windows to the professional installers, but during any renovation of your house, you should consider sound proofing as important a decoration as the carpet or wallpaper. When you need to repair drywall for example, consider adding the insulation that will reduce noise. After all, no one wants to be enjoying lunch in the kitchen or on the patio and have to listen to a teen's stereo from the bedroom! Soundproofing may not be something you would have missed until you have it once. Then you will be thinking about it anytime a noise gets in the way of your peace and quiet.

Ken Morris releases many news and information to the internet site http://www.soundproofing-tips.com . He is working on topics like floor sound insulation and acoustical foam .

Draught Proofing Your Home

This article takes a look at a number of ways of preventing or reducing draughts in your home. There are areas we look at are doors, windows and double-glazing, garage doors and finally some of the furnishings you could use to prevent draughts. Draughts are obviously caused by the cold air from outside being drawn into the house and replacing warmer air. The knock on effect of preventing draughts is a reduction in your heating bill and a warmer home. Draughts can be identified in a number of ways such as identifying obvious gaps, feeling for moving air around doors and windows and looking out for moving curtains.

As we mentioned earlier double-glazing can reduce draughts. It can also reduce heat loss, noise pollution and condensation, and all of these benefits reinforce the decision to get double-glazing. Reducing heat loss will obviously reduce heating bills and by making heating your property much more efficient. This in turn means you are making a contribution to reducing pollution and so benefiting the environment. The reduction in noise will give you a greater sense of privacy, particular if you live alongside a busy road, plus condensation can damage soft furnishings and create a damp atmosphere. By buying sealed units which fit perfecting onto their frame you are ensuring a draught free environment.

The most common area for draughts is a door. Not only is there often a gap between the door and its frame, but doors can also have cat flaps, keyholes and letterboxes. Modern doors and their frames have been built with excluding draughts in mind, but older doors are much vulnerable. You should look at draught proofing any holes or gaps around the door or indeed in the door such as cat flaps. An alternative is a draught excluder, which can be stretched along the bottom of the door where the draughts are more likely to come from.

If you have an integral garage then this is an area, which can let the cold and draughts into your property. You should not only draught proof the internal door to the garage but also the garage door itself. The best style of garage doors for keeping draughts down are the roller and sectional garage doors. These fit snugly onto tracks fitted onto the side of the garage, unlike the up and over garage door or the more traditional side hung door.

So, these are just some of the areas to attack when looking reduce draught and retain the warmth in your home.

Garry John has contributed to several home improvement sites such as garage doors and double glazing.

 

Classic Roofing

There are quite a few advantages to using roofing shingles over other types of roofing design. While roofing needs vary depending on weather conditions in the part of the world you're in, shingled roofs are the most common type to be found in most of the United States and Canada.

Shingles are basically small roofing tiles which are used to cover a roof. They are stacked in an overlapping fashion across the length of the roof, allowing rain to slide off easily. One of the biggest advantages to using shingles over, say, a single metal sheet (a common roofing technique in some Asian countries) is that it provides the house with better ventilation and heat management.

In the summer, hot gases, with their tendency to rise, will seep out of a house via the gaps in the shingles, leaving the interior of the house cooler. In the winter time, however, the shingles become packed with snow, allowing the roof and the snow itself to become a heat-retaining layer of insulation which helps keep the interior of the house warm.

Shingled roofs are also generally sturdier than single-sheet or standard concrete roofs. The tiles are tough yet, because the roof itself is not made of a single piece of material, the overall effect is one of flexibility under pressure. Where a solid piece roof would crack under sufficient weight, shingled roofs provide a certain amount of "yield" under pressure that keeps the roof intact.

Lastly, one of the nicest advantages of roofing shingles comes during repair-time. Whereas one-piece roofs need to be overhauled almost entirely for repairs and can get expensive, shingles are small, easy to install, and cheap to replace if they get broken.

There are, however, two major drawbacks to using shingled roofs that make them inapplicable to some climates. The first drawback to shingled roofs is that their tiles are more vulnerable to thermal stress. Thermal stress does not mean merely extremes of heat and cold, but rather refers to sudden and drastic changes in temperature.

Being composed of small tiles, sudden changes in temperature from high heat to cold or vice versa leave the shingles more brittle and prone to damage, sometimes even actually causing them to suddenly crack under the rapid temperature change. This makes shingles inapplicable in certain tropical climes where a blazingly hot tropic day can suddenly be punctuated by an ice-cold rainstorm.

Daniel Roshard is a interior designer fascinated by garden architecture, he is currently studying interior design integration to public parks and gardens. Daniel is writing Roofing and Roof construction reviews for http://roofing.zupatips.com at ZupaTips.com